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Bettesworth Construction
Construction Safety

How to Build a 20-Foot PVC Geodesic Dome: A Practical Guide

A practical guide to the documented 20-foot PVC geodesic dome, including its hub counts, pipe compatibility, cut planning, assembly sequence, and important limits on structural claims.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 6 min read

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You can use the 20-foot Maker Faire dome documented by Eric Schimelpfenig as a practical reference for fabrication and assembly, but not as a ready-made structural plan for another site. That build used 1.5-inch Schedule 40 PVC and custom hubs. Its article does not provide site-specific engineering for wind, snow, anchorage, foundations, occupancy, or code compliance. Choose and verify the design for your intended use before buying pipe or building.

What the documented 20-foot build includes

Schimelpfenig’s Make: project, published April 10, 2015, describes the dome built for Maker Faire 2014. It uses triangular struts joined by purpose-made hubs, with 1.5-inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe; the article gives the pipe’s outside diameter as 1.9 inches.

The reported hub quantities are specific to that build:

  • 15 four-arm base hubs
  • 6 five-star hubs
  • 55 six-star hubs

The article also mentions buying more than 150 ten-foot pipe lengths for a dual-dome event setup. That is not a verified bill of materials for one dome. Use the project’s downloadable model and detailed instructions to confirm parts and quantities rather than applying that purchase total to a single structure.

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Choose the geometry and hub system before calculating cuts

A dome’s frequency, often described by its “V” value, determines how its surface is divided into triangles. Higher subdivision creates a smoother-looking surface but adds struts and hubs. In the Make: explanation, a 3V dome has three strut lengths. A 20-foot diameter alone is not enough to determine a complete cut list: frequency, dome profile, exact finished diameter, connector geometry, and pipe fit all matter.

Use a calculator or model that matches the connector system you will actually build. Sonostar’s MegaDome calculator calculates different strut lengths by frequency and diameter. Its MegaHub calculation deducts four inches for hub width; that adjustment applies to that hub family, not automatically to other connectors. Confirm hub dimensions or use the matching calculator before cutting.

Before ordering materials, settle these design inputs:

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  • Calculated strut lengths and quantities

If you change the geometry or connectors from the published project, recalculate the struts and verify the resulting arrangement. Do not assume parts or nominal cut lengths transfer unchanged between hub systems.

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What size PVC pipe do you need?

For a close reproduction of the Make: build, the documented choice is 1.5-inch Schedule 40 PVC, fitted to the hubs used for that project. That is a project specification, not a universal pipe size for a 20-foot dome. Connector fit is system-specific.

For comparison, Sonostar’s current 4V standard kit listing is designed for nominal 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC, not the 1.5-inch pipe in the Make: build. Sonostar’s instructions say its standard hubs expect pipe with an outside diameter of about 0.84 inches. Its MegaHub options have different fit arrangements: nominal 1-inch pipe inserts inside the hub arms, while nominal 1.5-inch pipe sleeves outside them. These are Sonostar-specific instructions, not general rules for other hubs.

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The standard kit listing includes 20 four-star connectors, 6 five-star connectors plus a spare, 65 six-star connectors plus spares, stainless nuts and bolts, a mallet, and assembly instructions. It lists pre-cut sizes of 5 m / 16.4 ft, 6 m / 19.7 ft, 8 m / 26.25 ft, and 9 m / 29.5 ft. Those kit contents and lengths describe a different system; check the selected kit’s current specifications and match pipe to its connectors before purchase.

How to calculate the different strut lengths

  1. Fix the design. Select frequency, profile, and diameter rather than beginning with a generic 20-foot cut list.
  2. Choose the connector. Obtain its relevant dimensions and confirm which pipe it accepts.
  3. Calculate for that system. Use the connector maker’s matching calculator or a verified model. Account for hub width only as specified for that hub family.
  4. Check the output. Compare the length groups and quantities against the assembly map or model before purchasing pipe or cutting.

Sonostar’s construction instructions likewise direct builders to use its dome calculator for strut lengths. A calculator result is only useful when its geometry and connector assumptions match the build.

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Cut and drill the struts consistently

  1. Lay out and identify the parts. Mark each length group clearly and check the quantities against the assembly map. Sonostar recommends laying out the pieces and verifying their color coding against a map.
  2. Set a repeatable stop. Schimelpfenig describes using a chop-saw stand with stops so pieces of the same length can be cut consistently. Make sure the stop is stable and cannot shift during the cuts.
  3. Cut to the confirmed lengths. Keep each group separate and labeled as you work; avoid mixing similar-looking lengths.
  4. Drill for the selected joint method. For the Make: project’s bolted hub assembly, drill matching holes at both ends of every strut. Schimelpfenig emphasizes that the holes must line up at each end.
  5. Check the assembly map again. Confirm that the cut and drilled parts are assigned to the correct positions before raising the frame.

Assemble the hubs and struts from the base upward

Work on a flat surface where possible and have enough help to control partially assembled sections. Schimelpfenig’s sequence starts with the perimeter ring, then joins the rest of the frame around six pentagons. Sonostar also advises starting at the perimeter and working upward, pushing struts fully into its connectors.

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  1. Build the base ring. Lay out the perimeter pipes and bolt each connection to its four-arm hub. As Schimelpfenig puts it, “The first step is to lay out the base ring of pipes and bolt each connection together, using the 4-armed hubs.”
  2. Assemble the pentagons. Make the six pentagonal sections called for in the project instructions, keeping each pipe and hub in its assigned position.
  3. Raise the first row. Connect the base poles and raise the initial sections in a controlled sequence. Add cross pipes and join the pentagons as directed by the model.
  4. Fill in the remaining struts. Continue around the frame, checking each connection and keeping the structure supported as it takes shape.
  5. Close the top. Install the final struts and hubs according to the assembly map. The Make: article notes that a section can be removed to form a doorway; an opening changes the structure, so do not treat it as a harmless alteration for a load-bearing or occupied use.

The Make: author reports that two people assembled the project in a few hours. That is his experience with that build, not a reliable schedule for other crews, sites, or designs.

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Bolted or glued connections—and outdoor durability

The Make: build uses bolted connections, a practical choice when disassembly or reuse matters. Sonostar describes bolting for structures intended to be assembled and taken apart, or gluing for a more permanent assembly. If using the glued route, dry-fit and verify the full layout first: Sonostar cautions that adhesive sets quickly. Primer and PVC cement are relevant only to that option.

Sonostar warns that prolonged ultraviolet exposure can make PVC brittle and suggests spray paint for protection. Its guidance does not establish a service life or paint performance for this particular dome, so do not use paint as a substitute for inspecting exposed PVC or choosing materials appropriate to the conditions.

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Covering, weather, and safe use

A cover changes the wind exposure of a dome. Sonostar cautions that a parachute-style cover can catch wind; rigid triangular panels require individual cutting. Neither a generic fabric cover nor a panel choice establishes that a particular frame is safe in local conditions.

The available project and supplier materials do not provide a verified load rating for the Make: configuration or calculations for a reader’s wind exposure, snow load, anchorage, foundation, doorway reinforcement, occupancy, or permits. They also do not establish that the DIY frame is safe to climb. Sonostar specifically says its 1/2-inch PVC is not strong enough for climbing; that warning concerns its pipe system and does not certify or rate the larger Make: build.

For an occupied structure, public access, significant weather exposure, or any use involving people on or beneath the dome, consult a qualified structural professional familiar with local requirements. Have the actual geometry, connectors, pipe, cover, openings, anchorage, foundation, and site conditions reviewed together before construction.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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