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1Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors2Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitches3Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsTo lower the humidity in your house, first measure relative humidity (RH), then stop moisture where it enters or is produced. Aim for about 30% to 50% RH in most conditions; the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) advises keeping it below 60%, ideally between 30% and 50% (EPA; ENERGY STAR). If humidity stays high after leaks and other moisture sources are addressed, use air conditioning or a properly sized dehumidifier—and investigate persistent water intrusion rather than treating damp air alone.
How do I lower the humidity in my house?
Start with a hygrometer, also called a humidity meter. Check rooms that feel damp and note the RH reading; measure again after making changes. This tells you whether the problem is confined to one room or affects the house more broadly, and helps you avoid buying equipment before you know it is needed. EPA recommends measuring humidity and keeping it below 60%, ideally 30% to 50% (EPA; EPA).
Do not aim for the lowest possible RH. Very dry indoor air can be uncomfortable; during cold-weather heating, ENERGY STAR gives 30% to 40% as a useful range for helping limit condensation on windows (ENERGY STAR). Persistent condensation on windows or other surfaces is a sign to investigate moisture and ventilation, not simply to wipe the glass.
15 practical ways to reduce indoor humidity
1. Measure RH in the rooms that feel damp
Place an indoor hygrometer in the affected room and use it to establish a baseline. If readings vary across the house, record them by room rather than assuming one device’s reading represents every space. Recheck after changes to see whether they helped.
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2. Set a realistic humidity target
For most homes, aim for 30% to 50% RH, while keeping indoor humidity below 60% as EPA recommends. In cold weather, lower indoor humidity may help reduce window condensation; ENERGY STAR’s suggested 30% to 40% range is specifically for cold-weather heating conditions (ENERGY STAR).
3. Run the bathroom exhaust fan during and after showers
Use the fan while showering and long enough afterward to clear moisture. Confirm that it exhausts outdoors, rather than into an attic or another indoor space. If there is no working fan, opening a window can help when conditions permit; leaving the bathroom door open afterward can also help moisture disperse.
4. Exhaust cooking moisture outdoors
Turn on a range hood or kitchen exhaust fan while cooking, especially when boiling water or producing steam. A hood that recirculates air through a filter is not the same as one that sends moist air outdoors. EPA recommends using exhaust fans to remove moisture at its source (EPA).
5. Manage moisture from dishwashing and hand-washing
Dishwashers and hot water at the sink add moisture to indoor air. Use outdoor-vented kitchen exhaust during and after dishwashing when practical, or open a window if outdoor conditions are suitable.
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6. Vent the clothes dryer outdoors
Check that the dryer duct is connected, unobstructed, and directing air outdoors. If you air-dry laundry indoors, the water evaporating from the clothes ends up in the room; dry clothes outside when weather and space allow.
7. Avoid unvented combustion appliances that add water vapor
Some unvented fuel-burning appliances, including kerosene heaters, release water vapor as well as combustion products. Follow the appliance’s safety instructions and use proper outdoor venting where the appliance design allows. EPA identifies unvented stoves and kerosene heaters as potential indoor moisture sources (EPA).
8. Repair plumbing and outdoor-faucet leaks
A slow leak can keep cabinets, walls, floors, or nearby materials damp even when the room does not look obviously wet. Fix the leak, then dry affected materials promptly. Check outdoor faucets and plumbing near damp areas as well as visible indoor fixtures.
9. Direct rainwater away from the foundation
Keep gutters and downspouts clear, and direct downspout discharge away from the house. Soil should slope away from the foundation so rainwater does not pool against it. Avoid overwatering plantings next to the foundation. These drainage steps can reduce water reaching basements and lower levels (EPA).
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10. Use air conditioning when it is warm and humid
Air conditioning cools indoor air and removes some moisture as it operates. Keep the filter maintained and make sure the condensate pan and drain line are clean and clear; a blocked drain or water left in the system can contribute to moisture problems.
11. Check for AC short-cycling
If the house cools quickly but RH remains high, the air conditioner may be oversized, poorly maintained, or otherwise not running long enough to remove sufficient moisture. EPA notes that oversized systems can cool a space without dehumidifying it adequately (EPA). Ask an HVAC professional to assess persistent humidity rather than lowering the thermostat repeatedly.
12. Choose a portable dehumidifier for a localized damp room
A portable unit is often the practical option when one room, such as a basement, stays damp. Match the unit’s capacity—commonly stated in pints of water removed per day—to both the room size and how wet the space is. ENERGY STAR distinguishes capacity needs for slightly or moderately damp, very damp, and wet conditions; follow its current guidance rather than choosing by room area alone (ENERGY STAR).
13. Use humidity controls and plan for collected water
ENERGY STAR-certified dehumidifiers include a built-in humidistat to set a target RH. If your unit does not display humidity, use a separate hygrometer to monitor results. Empty the collection bucket as required or use a suitable drain connection if the model supports continuous drainage. ENERGY STAR says certified dehumidifiers use 20% less energy than similarly sized conventional models; that figure is the program’s stated comparison, not a guarantee of a particular household’s bill savings (ENERGY STAR).
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14. Consider a whole-home dehumidifier only for persistent, widespread humidity
If RH remains consistently above 55% throughout a home with central air conditioning, ENERGY STAR identifies a whole-home dehumidifier as a possible option. It must be sized and installed for the specific house, so seek qualified HVAC advice before treating it as a general-purpose upgrade (ENERGY STAR). First address leaks, drainage, exhaust, and equipment problems; added dehumidification does not repair those sources.
15. Dry wet materials quickly and stop the water source
After a leak or spill, remove standing water and dry wet materials within 24 to 48 hours. EPA says materials dried in that timeframe will, in most cases, avoid mold growth (EPA). A dehumidifier can assist drying, but it is not a substitute for stopping water intrusion or removing materials that cannot be dried.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.When does opening a window help?
Outdoor-air ventilation is useful only when it brings in air that can help dry the home. Open windows when weather permits and the outdoor air is not humid; when outdoor air is humid, ventilation can add moisture instead of reducing it. ENERGY STAR specifically recommends opening windows when it is not humid outside, while EPA’s advice to ventilate is qualified by weather conditions (ENERGY STAR; EPA).
When should you call a professional?
Get a qualified building or HVAC professional involved if humidity remains high after obvious sources are controlled, if water keeps entering the home, or if an air conditioner appears to cool rapidly without lowering RH. Building design, local climate, ventilation, and equipment sizing affect the right solution. Visible mold or recurring dampness may require more than humidity control; lowering RH alone does not establish that an existing mold or health problem has been resolved.
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