To keep groundhogs out of a garden, build a sturdy wire fence that resists both climbing and digging. An established burrow under a deck, porch, or shed is different: don’t seal entrances until you know it is empty and no young are inside, and check local wildlife rules before trapping or relocating an animal.
Choose a solution based on where the groundhog is causing trouble
| Situation | Best starting point | Key consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Eating plants in a garden | Fence the garden with wire that deters climbing and digging. | Installation takes work, but protects a defined area without having to remove the animal. |
| Recently started digging a hole | After confirming it is a new, unoccupied entrance, place large stones or bricks in it repeatedly. | This is not a safe way to seal an established burrow, which may have other entrances or contain young. |
| Living under a deck, porch, or shed | Establish whether the burrow is active; consult your state wildlife agency or a licensed local professional if removal is needed. | Trapping or sealing the entrance can leave an animal—or young—trapped underground. |
| Considering a live trap | Check local law and arrange lawful, prompt handling before setting a trap. | Capture does not solve the access problem, and relocation may be prohibited or require permission. |
Protect a garden with a barrier that stops climbing and digging
Use a substantial wire fence around the area you want to protect. A fence that only stands above ground can be climbed over or bypassed by digging beneath it, so plan for both routes. Practical dimensions differ among agency recommendations; treat them as examples for planning, not a universal building code.
- Height and top: University of Maryland Extension recommends a four-foot garden fence. North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission describes a three-to-four-foot fence with a flexible top, and Missouri and Indiana guidance also discusses a bent or flexible top to discourage climbing. [University of Maryland Extension; North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission; Missouri Department of Conservation; Indiana Department of Natural Resources]
- Bottom edge: Maryland recommends burying the fence 12 inches. Indiana describes burying wire 10 to 12 inches; an outward-facing L-shaped extension or footer is another way to make digging underneath harder. [Maryland Extension; Indiana DNR; North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission]
- Optional electric strand: Missouri guidance describes a low electric wire as a possible supplement to fencing. Follow local rules and safety guidance, and keep vegetation clear so it does not short out. [Missouri Department of Conservation]
If a tree or shrub is being damaged, protecting that plant individually may be more practical than fencing a large area. Ask Extension suggests metal flashing or a tree guard at least three feet high. [Ask Extension]
Handle a burrow under a deck, porch, or shed cautiously
A groundhog burrow is not necessarily a single, shallow hole. Maryland Extension reports that the underground area covered by a burrow network can span 8 to 66 feet, that burrows may be used for several years, and that a system may be used to raise young. The same source reports a single litter of two to six young; these are Maryland Extension figures, not national population statistics. [University of Maryland Extension]
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- Look for signs of activity without blocking openings. Note the entrances and signs of fresh digging, but don’t seal a hole while an animal or young may be inside.
- Get location-specific advice if removal is necessary. Contact your state wildlife agency or a licensed nuisance-wildlife professional to ask which options are lawful where you live.
- Secure the perimeter after the animal is gone. A properly installed metal barrier trenched around the structure can help prevent a new animal from burrowing under it. Ask Extension suggests wire around a deck perimeter, while noting that the work must be thorough and effectiveness is uncertain. [Ask Extension]
North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission warns that hazing an established groundhog rarely makes it leave the area entirely: it may retreat into its burrow, reopen a blocked entrance, or dig another. A new hole is a different case: the agency says repeatedly placing large stones or bricks into a recently started entrance may deter digging. Confirm the entrance is new and unoccupied before trying this. [North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission]
Understand the limits of scents, noise, and scare devices
Predator scents, decoys, noise makers, and repellents should not be treated as a dependable permanent fix for an established burrow. Michigan State University Extension describes predator scents, decoys, and noise as usually temporary. North Carolina says hazing nearly always fails to make an established groundhog abandon the area. The Humane Society of the United States lists options such as capsaicin repellents, blood meal, and visual scare devices, but favors exclusion for keeping woodchucks out of unwanted areas. [Michigan State University Extension; North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission; The Humane Society of the United States]
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Avoid assuming that ammonia, flooding, fumigants, or homemade remedies are universally safe or appropriate. Missouri discusses some of these in its state-specific guidance, but they raise safety, non-target, or legal concerns and are not needed for the basic exclusion approach. [Missouri Department of Conservation]
Before trapping, check the rules and the season
Trapping, hunting, relocation, and permits vary by state. For example, North Carolina limits trapping to its regulated season unless a free depredation permit is obtained and does not allow relocation. Indiana says release onto another property requires permission from the landowner or property manager. Maryland Extension likewise says permission is required before release in suitable habitat. Check current requirements with your state wildlife agency and local authorities before trapping, moving, or killing a groundhog. [North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission; Indiana DNR; Maryland Extension]
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Timing matters because young may be underground in spring. Trapping and relocating then can leave them behind; Maryland Extension also cautions against relocating in autumn immediately before hibernation. The Humane Society warns that trapping and relocating in spring or summer can leave babies in the burrow. [Maryland Extension; The Humane Society of the United States]
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.If you use a live trap, plan for what happens next
Some agencies describe cage traps baited with fruit or vegetables, but a trap is a secondary option—not a substitute for closing off access. The Humane Society favors exclusion over trapping, noting the risk of leaving young and the possibility that other animals will move into a vacant area. [The Humane Society of the United States]
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Agency instructions are jurisdiction-specific. Maryland Extension advises pre-baiting before setting the trap, placing it near a burrow entrance shortly before daylight, removing it before dark to reduce non-target captures, and checking local guidance. Missouri advises setting cage traps during daylight and closing or disabling them at night. Confirm current rules and arrange lawful, prompt handling before setting any trap. [Maryland Extension; Missouri Department of Conservation]
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