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Winterize outdoor faucets and irrigation systems before the first freeze your local forecast expects. There is no reliable nationwide calendar date: timing depends on your location, the expected temperature and duration, and whether water-filled parts are exposed or buried. For a faucet, disconnect the hose, shut off its interior supply when available, drain the exposed pipe, and add insulation. For irrigation, shut off the water and controller, drain the components your system exposes, protect backflow equipment and above-ground piping, and use a professional blowout only when the system and local conditions justify it.
The safest method is determined by three things: freeze severity, system design, and the manufacturer’s instructions. A light, occasional freeze may require only draining and insulating exposed parts. A prolonged freeze that can reach buried lines may require a designed blowout or other extensive drainage. Treat compressed air as a system-specific procedure, not a universal step.
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Choose the date from the forecast, not the calendar
Start when the local forecast shows the first expected freeze, leaving enough time to complete the work while temperatures are above freezing. The University of Georgia Cooperative Extension states, “This is preferably done before the first freeze,” in its Drip Irrigation Checklist: Winterization (Circular 1094, published August 9, 2016). A forecast is more useful than a fixed date because the first freeze arrives at different times in different regions and a brief light freeze presents a different risk from several days of hard freezing.
Check the expected low temperature, how many hours temperatures will remain below freezing, and whether a second cold night is forecast. Also check the irrigation manufacturer’s winterization instructions and any local plumbing or backflow requirements. If a system serves several zones or combines sprinkler and drip components, plan for the most freeze-sensitive component rather than assuming one method protects everything.
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Winterize outdoor faucets first
Exterior faucets can freeze when a hose, timer or connector traps water against the valve, or when an exposed section of supply pipe remains full. Use this sequence for each faucet.
- Disconnect every hose. Remove garden hoses, splitters, timers, spray nozzles and rigid plastic connectors. Drain the hoses and store them where they will not freeze; protect timers and other small fittings indoors.
- Close the interior shutoff, if the faucet has one. The shutoff is commonly in a basement, crawlspace, utility room or garage. Closing it isolates the exterior branch while the indoor plumbing remains pressurized.
- Open the exterior faucet. Use the faucet’s drain or bleeder arrangement, if fitted, to let water leave the isolated section. Leave the faucet open long enough for the exposed pipe to drain.
- Insulate exposed parts. Wrap exposed piping in an unheated crawlspace, garage or exterior wall where appropriate. Arkansas Extension guidance published January 22, 2026 says, “Outdoor faucets should be disconnected and insulated, and any exposed pipes in crawlspaces, garages and exterior walls should be wrapped or insulated.”
- Add a faucet cover only as supplemental protection. A cover can reduce exposure to wind and cold, but it does not replace disconnecting the hose, shutting off the supply and draining the pipe.
UGA Extension’s Forsyth County guidance gives the core sequence plainly: “Outdoors, disconnect garden hoses from exterior faucets, then shut off water to the faucet and drain the pipe.” Read the complete instructions at Protect Water Pipes from Freezing (November 1, 2017).
Identify the irrigation system before choosing a method
Locate the water shutoff, controller, backflow assembly, filters, pumps, pressure regulators, drain valves and low points. Then classify the installation:
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- Landscape sprinkler system: Usually has buried lateral lines, zone valves, a controller and a backflow device. The freeze risk is often greatest at above-ground backflow equipment, exposed PVC and pumps.
- Drip irrigation: Uses narrow tubing, emitters, filters, pressure regulators, timers and connectors that can crack or clog when water freezes inside them.
- Soaker hoses: Often remain at ground level and can hold water in low spots; disconnecting and draining them is usually more practical than treating them like buried sprinkler pipe.
- Combination system: Winterize each component according to its construction. A drip timer and regulator may need indoor storage even when sprinkler lines are handled separately.
Read the installation manual before opening drains or applying air. Some systems include automatic drains; others require manual removal of plugs, caps or fittings. A closed valve can trap water even when the main supply is off.
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Use the method that matches local freeze severity
| Conditions and system design | Appropriate preparation | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Light or occasional freezes; vulnerable parts are exposed | Turn off the controller and irrigation supply, drain above-ground components and low points, and insulate exposed PVC, backflow equipment and pumps. | This regional approach is described by Texas A&M AgriLife for most of Texas; it is not a universal prescription. |
| Prolonged or severe freezes that can reach buried pipelines | Use the system manufacturer’s full drainage procedure or hire a qualified professional for a blowout where the design permits it. | Incorrect air pressure can damage valves, emitters, fittings and other equipment. |
| Drip or soaker installation with removable components | Disconnect the water source, remove timers, pressure regulators, filters and other delicate parts for indoor storage, open end caps and drain low points. | Complete drainage can take several hours; low spots may continue releasing water after the first drain. |
| Any system with backflow equipment | Drain and insulate the backflow assembly according to its instructions and local requirements. | Backflow devices may retain water in chambers that do not empty through a single open faucet or drain. |
Texas A&M’s Winterization guidance says basic preparation for light-to-mild freezes in most of Texas includes turning off the controller, shutting off irrigation supply, insulating exposed above-ground PVC and draining above-ground components such as backflow assemblies. It also explains that blowout methods are used most commonly in northern areas where severe or prolonged freezing can reach buried pipelines.
Step-by-step winterization for landscape sprinklers
- Record the normal controller settings. Photograph schedules or note seasonal-adjustment settings so spring restart does not require rebuilding every zone.
- Turn off the irrigation controller. Use the controller’s off, rain or seasonal-shutdown setting as directed by the manufacturer. Do not rely on the controller alone to stop water; close the irrigation supply valve.
- Close the irrigation shutoff. Isolate the system upstream of the backflow assembly where the plumbing layout allows it.
- Drain above-ground equipment. Open the designated drains or test cocks on backflow assemblies, filters, pumps and exposed manifolds. Follow the device instructions; opening the wrong port can release water under pressure or fail to empty a chamber.
- Drain low points and exposed pipe. Use manual or automatic drain valves where installed. Open valves that can trap water. UGA notes that closed gate and ball valves may retain water and crack during freeze/thaw cycles.
- Insulate what remains exposed. Protect above-ground PVC, backflow equipment and pump housings after they have been drained. Insulation slows heat loss but cannot compensate for a full pipe left in freezing conditions.
- Decide whether a blowout is warranted. Do not connect a compressor simply because the system has buried lines. Confirm that the manufacturer permits air clearing, identify the correct connection point and use the pressure and sequence specified for the equipment.
Oklahoma State University Extension advises homeowners not to blow out a landscape system themselves because incorrect pressure can damage it. Its detailed guidance is available in Tips For Winterizing a Home Landscape Irrigation System (2022). A professional is the safer choice when you cannot identify the system’s pressure limit, drain locations or backflow requirements.
Drip and soaker systems: remove, drain and protect delicate parts
Drip tubing and soaker hoses may look simple, but emitters, regulators and timers are easily damaged by trapped ice. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach’s Using Drip Irrigation in the Garden (page reviewed February 2026) recommends this sequence:
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- Remove complex components for indoor storage. Bring in pressure valves, timers, regulating disks, filters, backflow preventers and similar parts that can crack or retain water. Keep their washers and connectors together.
- Open end caps and low points. Remove end caps or open designed drains. Elevate sections of tubing so water can run toward an opening rather than remaining in a sag.
- Allow enough time. Full drainage can take several hours, particularly where tubing has many emitters or uneven low spots. Recheck the system after it has stopped draining.
- Use compressed air only when approved. Iowa State says many drip-line air-clearing cases use 20–30 psi and warns that pressure above 30 psi is likely to damage emitters or delicate parts. These figures are equipment guidance, not a universal setting; the manufacturer’s lower limit controls.
UGA’s checklist at Drip Irrigation Checklist: Winterization also directs owners to drain pumps and components, pay attention to low points and trapped water, and open valves. It notes that automatic drain valves commonly close at 9–10 psi, so an automatic drain may not empty every component unless the rest of the system is opened as instructed.
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Why a blowout is not a universal solution
A blowout pushes compressed air through irrigation lines to expel water. It can be useful where buried pipelines face sustained freezing and the system was designed with an appropriate compressor connection and pressure limit. It can also be destructive: excessive pressure can rupture fittings, dislodge emitters, damage valves or force debris into small passages.
Texas A&M specifically says most Texas landscape systems are not designed for blowout. Oklahoma State likewise cautions against homeowner blowouts because pressure errors can damage equipment. Therefore:
- Use a blowout only if the system documentation permits it and identifies the pressure, connection point and zone sequence.
- Never infer a safe pressure from the compressor’s maximum rating.
- Do not use a high-pressure compressor on drip emitters or delicate regulators unless the manufacturer expressly allows it.
- Hire an irrigation professional when the system has no clearly identified drain procedure, has complex backflow equipment, or must be protected from prolonged severe freezing.
Decision checklist before the freeze arrives
Use these questions to select draining, insulating, professional service or a combination:
- How low will temperatures go, and for how long?
- Are vulnerable components exposed above ground, or are they buried below the local freeze line?
- Does the system have accessible manual or automatic drain valves?
- Which parts can be removed and stored indoors?
- What pressure and sequence does the manufacturer specify for air clearing?
- Are backflow devices subject to local plumbing or inspection requirements?
- Can you verify that every low point and trapped chamber has drained?
If you cannot answer the pressure, drain or backflow questions, stop before applying air and consult the equipment manual or a qualified irrigation contractor. A cautious drain-and-insulate plan is preferable to a damaging improvised blowout.
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Common winterization mistakes and their fixes
Leaving a hose attached
A connected hose can hold water against the faucet and prevent the exposed branch from draining. Remove the hose, timer and splitter before closing the interior shutoff.
Relying on insulation alone
Insulation slows freezing but does not remove water from a pipe. Drain first, then insulate exposed faucets, PVC and backflow equipment.
Turning off the controller but leaving the supply open
A controller that is switched off does not necessarily isolate pressurized water. Close the irrigation supply and drain the components specified by the system instructions.
Assuming an automatic drain empties everything
Automatic drains may leave water in valves, pumps, backflow chambers and low spots. Open the required manual drains and verify that trapped sections are addressed.
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Using excessive compressed-air pressure
Pressure that clears one pipe can destroy drip emitters or sprinkler equipment. Stay within the manufacturer’s limit; Iowa State’s 20–30 psi range applies to many drip-line cases, while pressure above 30 psi is identified as likely to damage delicate parts.
Ignoring the spring restart
Before turning water back on, inspect exposed fittings, backflow equipment, filters, regulators and drain plugs for cracks or missing seals. Restore removable components, close drains, open the supply slowly and run each zone while checking for leaks.
What to document for spring
Keep a photo of valve positions, the controller schedule, removed components and any damaged fitting. Mark the location of buried shutoffs and drains. If a professional performed a blowout, retain the service notes showing the method used. This record makes it easier to find a forgotten drain, replace a cracked connector and restore irrigation without pressurizing a closed or damaged section.
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