The Tool Desk
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Choose the right time to restart
There is no universal spring start date. Restart after freezing conditions have ended for your area and before your landscape needs regular irrigation. Expanding water can crack irrigation pipes, valves, fittings and other components, so do not pressurize a system while hard freezes remain possible. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension describes winterization practices as climate-dependent, while Oregon State University Extension recommends a spring inspection before peak irrigation demand.
Identify your winterization and backflow setup
Before moving a valve, look at the exposed piping, valves and backflow assembly. Find any winterization notes, labels or the manufacturer’s manual. Installations differ: a system that was drained is not handled exactly like one that was blown out, and a pressure vacuum breaker (PVB), reduced-pressure (RP) device and other assemblies have different procedures.
If you cannot identify the device or determine which drains and test cocks were opened for winter, stop and obtain the device instructions or professional help. Local water-provider and plumbing-code requirements may also apply.
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Restore water safely
1. Close winter-opened openings as directed
Close open drains and the relevant backflow test cocks or valves according to the assembly manual. For a PVB, Colorado State University Extension’s spring instructions say to close the test cocks and ball valves before pressurizing.
2. Open the supply gradually
Reopen the irrigation supply slowly while watching the backflow assembly, nearby piping and drain outlets. Colorado State University Extension explains: “Opening the ball valves slowly will prevent damage to the system that can be caused by water hammer.” That sequence is specific to its PVB guidance, not a universal order for every installation.
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Stop immediately if water sprays from the assembly, a fitting drips continuously, a drain will not close, or you hear unusual hammering. Shut off the supply and investigate with the correct manual or a qualified irrigation professional.
Run every zone and look for winter damage
Activate zones one at a time so you can see the entire system under pressure. Walk the area while each station operates and check:
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- Leaks around valves, fittings, exposed pipe and heads
- Broken, cracked, sunken or worn sprinkler heads
- Heads that rise poorly, stay stuck or sit at an incorrect angle
- Low or non-perpendicular heads that produce uneven coverage
- Clogged nozzles or weak output
- Foliage, mulch or other objects blocking spray
- Spray reaching sidewalks, driveways, buildings or other hard surfaces
- Unusually wet areas that suggest an underground leak
A zone that will not shut off, has substantially lower pressure than usual, or produces a persistent gush rather than controlled sprays should remain off until the fault is repaired.
Flush and clean standard pop-up heads
Debris can enter during draining or maintenance. For standard pop-up spray sprinklers, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources describes two flushing options:
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- Remove the nozzle, hold the sprinkler throat above the soil with a sprinkler throat retention tool, and run the station for at least 30 seconds. Tight-fitting rubber bands are given as an alternative for holding the throat up.
- Use a flushing cap made for the installed sprinkler brand and model.
Clean the filter beneath the nozzle and confirm that the filter screen is present before reinstalling the nozzle. Match replacement nozzles and screens to the installed head. The cited flushing method does not apply to long-range, gear-driven sprinklers; use those sprinklers’ own instructions instead.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Set up the controller for spring
Manual or conventional controller
- Set the correct date and time, including the seasonal time change where applicable.
- Run each station manually and confirm that it starts and stops reliably.
- Replace the backup 9-volt battery if the controller uses one and it is weak or expired.
- Review run times, start times and watering days rather than automatically restoring last year’s schedule.
Smart controller
- Confirm the controller is connected to power and the network.
- Open the controller’s app and verify that it can communicate with the device.
- Check that every station is assigned correctly and responds to a manual test.
- Confirm weather or seasonal-adjustment features are enabled only if they match your setup.
Use a conservative spring schedule and adjust it as rainfall, temperature, plant growth and local restrictions change. Oregon State University Extension’s recommendations are for western Oregon; they should not be treated as a schedule for every region.
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When to stop and call for help
- The backflow device type or valve layout is unclear.
- The assembly leaks, discharges abnormally or cannot be pressurized normally.
- You find a cracked pipe, split fitting, broken valve or major underground leak.
- A controller repeatedly fails to operate a station.
- You are considering compressed-air winterization or repair of a backflow assembly.
Colorado State University Extension warns that PVB and RP devices must never be blown out with compressed air because their internal rubber seals can be damaged. That winterization warning is another reason to follow the installed device’s instructions rather than applying a generic valve sequence or pressure setting.
Quick Recap
Spring startup checklist
- Freeze risk has passed for the local area.
- Exposed pipes, valves and backflow hardware have been inspected.
- Winter-opened drains and test cocks are closed as required by the device manual.
- Water has been restored slowly with no abnormal discharge.
- Every zone has been run and inspected.
- Heads, nozzles, filters and spray patterns are clean and intact.
- The controller’s date, time, stations, battery and connectivity are correct.
- The watering schedule reflects current spring conditions.
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