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Bettesworth Construction
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How to Install a Wood Inlay for a Tight, Clean Fit

A router-bushing method for installing wood inlays: size the template, rout both pieces accurately, fit the edges, and seat the inlay cleanly.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 3 min read
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To install a wood inlay with a close fit, use a router bushing and a template sized to the inlay: for the method described here, the template opening is 7/16 inch larger than the inlay in both length and width. Rout the recess and the inlay blank with their specified bit settings, keep the bushing against the template, then refine the edges, glue, and seat the inlay.

Choose a template and decide how the inlay should sit

A shop-made template gives you flexibility to create a custom shape. Make it from 1/4-inch hardboard, with an opening 7/16 inch wider and longer than the finished inlay. That allowance accounts for the difference between the router bit’s cutting edge and the guide bushing’s outer edge in the setup described by WOOD Magazine. Treat the measurement as specific to this method; verify the dimensions of your own router, bushing, and bit before cutting.

Make the template large enough to clamp securely while leaving room for the router base. A trim router may let you use a smaller template. Alternatively, a ready-made butterfly key routing template can save you from making that particular pattern, while a hardboard template is more adaptable to your own design.

Choose whether the inlay will be flush with the surrounding surface or stand proud of it. In the source’s examples, the blank is 3/16 inch thick for a flush inlay and 3/8 inch thick for a projecting one. These are setup examples, not universal thickness requirements.

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How do I install a wood inlay?

1. Align and clamp the template

Mark centerlines on both the template and the workpiece, align them, and clamp the template securely. Rotate the template before clamping if you want to change the inlay’s grain orientation. Painter’s tape over the inlay area can help reduce chip-out.

2. Rout the recess

Install the guide bushing, collar, and 1/8-inch straight bit. For the described setup, set the bit 1/4 inch below the bushing. Rout away the waste inside the template, keeping the router under control and the template firmly clamped. Finish angled corners with a chisel where the round bit cannot reach. Peel any painter’s tape toward the opening to reduce the chance of lifting small veneer chips.

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3. Rout the inlay blank

Clamp the template to a blank of the thickness you selected. Remove the collar and set the bit 3/16 inch below the bushing, as specified for this method. Keep the bushing tight against the template as you rout: pulling it away can make the inlay smaller and leave a gap. At the end of the cut, switch off the router while holding it in place, and wait for the bit to stop before lifting the tool.

4. Cut out and refine the inlay

Separate the inlay from the blank with a scrollsaw or bandsaw. Use a chisel and file to clean up its edges, slightly undercutting them to help achieve a tight fit. Test the piece in the recess and make small, controlled corrections rather than forcing it into place. For projecting inlays, WOOD Magazine’s example sands the piece to 220 grit and adds a 1/16-inch chamfer; those are optional finishing details for that example, not required dimensions for every design.

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5. Glue and seat the piece

Spread a thin, even coat of glue in the recess. Cover the inlay with a scrap block and seat it with a few light mallet blows through the block. After the glue has dried, sand a flush inlay level with the surrounding surface.

How do I get a tight fit for a router inlay?

  • Use the correct template allowance. The described hardboard template opening is 7/16 inch larger than the inlay in both directions; do not assume this offset suits a different bushing-and-bit combination without checking it.
  • Keep the bushing in contact with the template. This is especially important while routing the blank, where drifting away can create a gap.
  • Refine the outline gradually. A chisel and file let you correct small irregularities and slightly undercut the edges for a closer fit.
  • Clamp securely and avoid forcing the piece. A template that shifts can compromise the cut, and an inlay that does not seat freely needs further fitting before glue-up.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Support on Ko-Fi

What to prepare before routing

  • Router with a compatible guide bushing and collar
  • 1/8-inch straight bit
  • 1/4-inch hardboard for a shop-made template, or a ready-made pattern template
  • Inlay stock in the thickness suited to a flush or projecting result
  • Clamps, painter’s tape, chisel, file, saw, glue, scrap seating block, and mallet

The settings and dimensions above follow WOOD Magazine Staff’s article, updated January 2, 2025. Confirm fit and depth with your specific router setup before routing the finished workpiece.

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