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A free scan shows the junk files, broken settings and background clutter dragging Windows down - then fixes them in one click.Free scan · Windows 10 & 11A fitted base and sliding carriage let a plunge router rough a symmetrical hollow into a chair-seat blank. WOOD Magazine contributor Bob Hockema described the jig as a quicker alternative to roughing a seat entirely with an adze, scorp and curved-bottom plane, but the article reports no timed comparison or measured time savings. The approach is best understood as a way to guide rough shaping—not as a finished-seat shortcut.
How the seat-sculpting jig works
The jig constrains the router’s movement in two directions. Curved base rails shape the router’s path across the seat, while a sliding upper carriage lets the router move from side to side and then advance toward the next cut. The arrangement is intended to produce a consistent hollow across a centered seat blank.
Hockema’s WOOD Magazine how-to, published March 27, 2018, describes a plunge router fitted with guide pins made by passing two-inch machine screws through steel sleeves. The base, made from 3/4-inch MDF, fits around the seat blank. The carriage rails capture the router’s pins but allow them to slide; notches in the carriage bottom fit over the base rails while permitting front-to-back movement.
The rail curves are shaped for the particular build. The article describes curves that run from zero depth at the ends of the arcs to 3/4 inch at the middle, and cautions that shaping the rails and carriage may take trial and error. Treat those dimensions as details of this shop tip, not as a universal seat profile.
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Set up the router and workpiece
- Fit the router with guide pins. Use the machine screws and steel sleeves described in the article. If the router base does not have four tapped holes, the instructions suggest drilling and tapping them or making a subbase. Exact screw threads and sleeve dimensions are not specified.
- Make the base and carriage fit the seat. Cut the 3/4-inch MDF base around the seat blank and shape the curved rails and carriage to suit the intended hollow. Check that the guide pins stay captured and slide freely, and that the carriage can travel front to back over the base rails.
- Secure the setup. Clamp the base to the workbench and use double-faced tape to hold the centered blank, as the article describes.
- Install the specified bit. Hockema’s procedure uses a 1/2-inch straight bit. Verify that the bit shank matches your router’s collet and that the router and bit are compatible.
Route the hollow in repeated passes
- Set the bit for a cut of about 3/16 inch, the pass depth described in the 2018 article.
- Move the router side to side across the seat. After each pass, advance the upper carriage forward so the next pass overlaps or adjoins the previous cut across the work area.
- Continue across the seat. The article estimates about 30 passes to cover its seat; the actual number depends on the blank and jig dimensions.
- Lower the bit another 3/16 inch for the next round of passes, repeating until the desired hollow is roughed in.
These are source-specific process figures, not independently tested settings for every wood, router, cutter or seat. Keep the workpiece secure and follow the router and bit manufacturers’ instructions; adjust the setup and cut to the actual work rather than assuming the stated depth or pass count will suit every project.
Plan for hand finishing
The router does most of the rough sculpting, but it does not eliminate refinement. Hockema says a scraper or power sander is still used to fine-tune the surface. The amount of hand work depends on the result of the rough cuts and the seat shape you want; the article does not quantify finishing time or specify a final surface standard.
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How this differs from other seat-shaping approaches
| Approach | How it shapes or guides the seat | How it addresses depth and symmetry | Finishing described |
|---|---|---|---|
| Router carriage jig (WOOD Magazine, March 27, 2018) | A plunge router travels on guide pins in a sliding carriage over a fitted base with curved rails. | The carriage and rail geometry guide the router’s path; the source gives no measured symmetry tolerance. | Scraper or power-sander fine-tuning remains. |
| Hand shaping with a depth gauge (Fine Woodworking, March/April 2019) | Michael Burt describes shaping a rocking-chair seat with a grinder and using a gauge made from scrap with dowels at two-inch intervals, marked in quarter-inch increments. | The gauge helps check depth and symmetry during hand shaping; it does not guide a router or remove material by itself. | Hand shaping is part of the method; the tip does not quantify remaining finishing work. |
| Production CNC roughing followed by hand shaping (Thos. Moser) | The manufacturer says a CNC router automated rough-form cutting for its Continuous Arm Chair. | The account describes automated roughing but does not specify a depth- or symmetry-checking gauge. | Hand-sculpting with a grinder remains part of shaping the seat highlight and saddle. |
These accounts describe different shop contexts, not a controlled comparison. They do not establish which method is faster, more accurate or better for a particular chairmaker.
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- Compatible with plunge and fixed base routers
- Straight edge has a maximum Travel of approximately 5-1/2″
- Plate Opening Sized to 1-3/16” for PC Style Bushings
- Depending on router, base may only connect with 2 or 3 opposing slots.
- Router guide has a large surface area for straight and curved edges for radial cuts
Sources
- WOOD Magazine: “Seat-sculpting jig saves time and keisters,” March 27, 2018.
- Fine Woodworking: “Depth Gauge for Chair Seats,” March/April 2019 shop tip.
- Thos. Moser: “The Thos. Moser Continuous Arm Chair”.
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