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Dragonflies are attracted by habitat, not flower nectar. The most reliable way to make a yard suitable for them is to combine a sunny, persistent freshwater pond with submerged plants, floating cover, emergent stems, open water, and a diverse native shoreline. Flowers can help indirectly by supporting the insects dragonflies hunt, but a flower bed without water usually cannot support the aquatic nymph stage.
Adult dragonflies are predators of flying insects. Their young, called nymphs or naiads, live underwater for months or years and eat aquatic invertebrates—and sometimes tadpoles or small fish. Plants provide nymph cover, egg-laying surfaces, emergence stalks, perches, shade, shelter, and habitat for prey. The National Park Service explains the aquatic larval stage here.
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The 17 plants below are practical North American candidates, not a universal ranking. Choose species native to your state, ecoregion, or watershed, then combine plants from several habitat layers rather than planting one attractive species in isolation.
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A dragonfly-friendly garden has two connected habitat zones:
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- Natural Filtration: Helps control nitrates and ammonia levels in your water environment
- Shade and Shelter: Protects fish and reduces water evaporation
- Fast Growth: Quickly covers surface areas for enhanced water coverage
- Low Maintenance: No planting required; simply float and allow to grow naturally
- Package Contents: Healthy greenhouse grown Water Hyacinth, carefully packaged for safe arrival, not collected from the wild
- Water: A pond, wetland edge, or other persistent freshwater feature where nymphs can feed, grow, molt, and eventually climb out to emerge as adults.
- Land: Sunny vegetation, perches, wind protection, roosting places, and native plants that support flies, beetles, moths, and other potential prey.
Adults may hunt well away from water, so a flower garden can attract a passing dragonfly or provide a temporary hunting and resting area. But adults generally return to aquatic habitat for mating and egg-laying, and many species need water that persists through a multiyear nymph stage. The Xerces Society and Migratory Dragonfly Partnership backyard-pond guide explains why plants and water must be designed together.
Dragonflies and damselflies often share the same habitat needs. A small wildlife pond may attract both, even though this article focuses on dragonflies.
Plant by function, not by flower color
| Plant layer | What it contributes | Examples from this list |
|---|---|---|
| Submerged | Underwater refuge and hunting structure for nymphs; habitat for aquatic prey | Coontail, wild celery, native pondweeds |
| Floating | Shade, surface structure, resting places, and possible egg-laying sites | Native hardy water lily |
| Emergent | Stems for nymphs to climb during emergence, plus adult perches and possible egg-laying surfaces | Pickerelweed, arrowhead, rush, bulrush, cattail |
| Marginal | A transition between water and land; shoreline cover, erosion control, and prey habitat | Blue flag iris, sedges, bur-reed |
| Upland and shoreline | Adult perches, wind shelter, roosting structure, and flowers that support prey insects | Swamp milkweed, Joe-Pye weed, bee balm, buttonbush |
Species differ in how they lay eggs. Some insert eggs into plant tissue, while others place them directly on water, mud, rocks, or another substrate. A varied pond therefore works better than one designed around a single plant or egg-laying strategy. The National Park Service describes several dragonfly egg-laying strategies.
17 plants for a dragonfly-friendly garden
Use the following as a design palette. Availability, mature size, hardiness, native status, and invasiveness can vary by state. When a plant is described as native, read that as native in at least part of North America—not automatically appropriate for every U.S. region.
1. Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata)
Layer: Emergent. Site: Shallow water or saturated soil at the pond edge; best in a sunny water garden. Function: Its upright stems create perches, shelter, and potential egg-laying structure, while its flowers can increase insect activity around the water. This species is native across much of eastern North America, but it can spread vigorously. Plant it in a basket or submerged container if the pond is small or easy maintenance matters. See Penn State Extension’s backyard-pond guidance and the Missouri Botanical Garden profile.
2. Blue flag iris (Iris versicolor)
Layer: Marginal or emergent. Site: Wet soil or shallow water, generally in sun to light shade. Function: Upright leaves and flower stalks add vertical structure for perching and emergence and help create a more complex shoreline. Use a blue-flag species native to your region where I. versicolor is not local. Do not casually substitute yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus), which is invasive or regulated in some areas. Compare Penn State’s blue-flag profile with its water-garden species guide.
3. Common arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia)
Layer: Emergent. Site: A shallow planting shelf, muddy margin, or gently sloping pond edge in a sunny location. Function: Emergent leaves and stems provide shallow-water cover and a varied shoreline profile. Select a regional native Sagittaria if common arrowhead is not native to your watershed. The University of Minnesota’s rain-garden list and Illinois Extension’s native wetland plant list provide examples of how wet-site plants are matched to habitat.
4. Soft rush (Juncus effusus)
Layer: Emergent and marginal. Site: Saturated soil or shallow water, preferably where the pond receives plenty of light. Function: Its dense vertical stems offer perches, shelter, and routes for emerging adults. Plant rushes in clumps rather than allowing them to form an unbroken monoculture around the entire pond. Penn State specifically includes rushes among useful plants for attracting dragonflies and damselflies; see that guidance.
5. Bottlebrush sedge and other native sedges (Carex comosa and regional Carex species)
Layer: Marginal. Site: Moist to saturated soil at the water’s edge; light requirements depend on the species, but a sunny or partly sunny margin is usually the most useful setting for dragonfly activity. Function: Sedges create low shoreline cover, vertical stems, and a gradual transition from water to upland habitat. Because Carex is a large and varied genus, choose a species native to the local watershed and suited to the pond’s mature moisture level rather than buying an unidentified mix. Consult Minnesota Extension’s rain-garden plant guidance and Illinois Extension’s wetland list.
6. Native bulrushes (Schoenoplectus or Scirpus species)
Layer: Emergent. Site: Shallow water or wet margins, generally in an open, sunny pond. Function: Tall stems and dense underwater and shoreline structure provide cover and emergence habitat. Bulrushes are usually a better fit for a larger pond or wetland-style planting than for a tiny ornamental basin. Confirm mature height, spread, and regional native status before installation. Illinois Extension’s pond-plant list and Penn State’s aquatic-plant guidance are useful starting points.
7. Common bur-reed (Sparganium eurycarpum)
Layer: Emergent and marginal. Site: Shallow, naturalistic ponds and wet margins with persistent moisture and good light. Function: Its upright form adds shallow-water structure and cover without turning the entire pond into a floating-plant display. Availability can be limited, so use a locally native Sparganium species when appropriate and never collect plants from the wild without permission. The species appears in Illinois Extension’s native pond-plant resource.
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Layer: Emergent. Site: Shallow water or saturated margins in full sun. Function: Tall stems provide cover, perches, and emergence structure. The warning is important: cattails can dominate a small pond and crowd out open water and other plant layers. Use only with a spread-control and thinning plan.
A Nova Scotia pond study found cattails were the most important macrophyte associated with larval distribution at that particular site. That is evidence that vegetation can matter—not a universal ranking that makes cattails the best choice everywhere or for every dragonfly species. See the study record here.
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- IMPORTANT: DO NOT ORDER IF ITS TOO HOT!! Please note that during times of extreme weather, live plants will suffer due to extreme temperatures. During winter, do not order live plants when temperatures are expected to go below 20F at the lowest point during the day. During summer, avoid ordering plants when temperatures are above 100F. Additionally, these plants will get damaged if your region experiences strong cold winds.
- You get one Water Poppies plant bareroot. These are grown plants, ready to reproduce. They can float but do best when planted in aquatic soil.
- They serve as natural biofilters to your pond, helping clear the water naturally
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9. Coontail or hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
Layer: Submerged. Site: Underwater in a sunny pond with enough light penetration; it can be useful where an underwater planting zone is needed. Function: The fine foliage provides refuge and hunting structure for nymphs and habitat for aquatic prey. Treat it as habitat, not merely as an ornamental “oxygenator.” Excessive growth still needs management, and plant material should be identified and approved for your area before it enters a pond. See Illinois Extension’s native pond-plant list and Penn State’s aquatic-plant overview.
10. Wild celery (Vallisneria americana)
Layer: Submerged. Site: A pond with adequate depth, light penetration, and persistent water. Function: Its long, ribbon-like leaves provide underwater structure and refuge for nymphs and aquatic invertebrates. Verify local native status and availability; a plant suitable in one region may not be the right choice in another. It is included in Illinois Extension’s native pond-plant resource.
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11. Native pondweeds (Potamogeton species)
Layer: Submerged, with some species producing floating foliage. Site: Persistent pond water with sufficient light; exact depth and growth habit vary by species. Function: Pondweeds create submerged and surface structure, supporting nymph cover, aquatic prey, and in some cases potential egg-laying surfaces.
Buy an identified native species rather than an unlabeled pondweed mix. Avoid invasive curly-leaf pondweed and other prohibited or nuisance aquatic plants. Penn State’s native aquatic-garden guidance and its nuisance-plant guidance explain why identification matters.
12. Native hardy water lily, such as fragrant water lily (Nymphaea odorata)
Layer: Floating. Site: Still, sunny pond water at a depth appropriate for the particular plant. Function: Floating leaves provide resting surfaces, shade, and structural variety. They should not cover the entire surface: dragonflies also need open water for flight and hunting.
Do not assume every water lily sold for a water garden is native or harmless outside cultivation. Confirm the species and local restrictions, and use a container when necessary to control spread. See Penn State’s water-garden species guide and the Xerces pond-habitat guide.
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Layer: Shoreline or upland wet meadow. Site: Moist soil, a rain-garden margin, or the wet edge of a pond; generally best in sun. Do not plant it in deep water. Function: It adds upright structure and flowers that support a broad insect community, increasing potential prey near the pond. Its benefit to dragonflies is indirect; dragonflies do not visit it for nectar. Use the milkweed species native to your region. Illinois Extension’s wetland plant list includes it among suitable native plants.
14. Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium species)
Layer: Shoreline and upland. Site: Moist soil in sun or light shade, with the exact species selected for local conditions. Function: Tall stems provide structure and its flowers attract many insects that may become prey for adult dragonflies. Some forms become very tall, while cultivars may be shorter, so allow room for mature growth. See Clemson Extension’s profile and the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service native-plant guide.
15. Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
Layer: Marginal or moist upland. Site: Saturated soil or a rain-garden edge, in sun to light shade depending on local conditions. Function: Upright vegetation and flowers make the shoreline more diverse and support other insects. Its strongest dragonfly value is indirect—prey support and shelter—not nectar for the dragonflies themselves. Use it beside the water rather than as a substitute for submerged or emergent plants.
16. Wild bergamot or another native bee balm (Monarda fistulosa or a regional Monarda)
Layer: Upland shoreline or meadow. Site: Sunny ground with moisture appropriate to the species; wild bergamot generally belongs in the surrounding soil rather than in standing water. Function: Bee balm supports bees, flies, butterflies, and other insects that may become prey, while its stems and foliage add shelter and structure. It supports dragonfly habitat indirectly and cannot replace a pond. Choose a regional native Monarda where possible.
17. Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
Layer: Woody shoreline shrub. Site: Wetland edge, rain garden, or larger pond margin in sun to light shade. Function: Its insect-rich flowers, shelter, wind buffering, and woody structure add several useful features around the pond. Buttonbush can become a substantial shrub, so it is usually better for a larger pond or wetland-style garden than a narrow foundation bed. See Penn State’s water-for-wildlife guidance and Illinois Extension’s native wetland list.
Smaller-yard alternative: black-eyed Susan
If buttonbush or another large wetland plant will outgrow the site, use a locally native black-eyed Susan, such as Rudbeckia hirta, in the surrounding sunny meadow. It supports a general insect-rich native planting and provides some structure, but it does not provide aquatic breeding habitat. Treat it as an upland supplement, not a replacement for pond plants.
Useful plant combinations
You do not need all 17 plants. A balanced combination from several layers is more useful than a long list of plants with the same growth habit.
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For a small wildlife pond
- One submerged plant, such as coontail or an identified native pondweed.
- One floating plant, such as a locally appropriate hardy water lily, used sparingly.
- One emergent plant, such as pickerelweed or arrowhead.
- One clumping rush or native sedge.
- One moist-edge flowering plant, such as swamp milkweed or cardinal flower.
Keep the pond fish-free, control aggressive spread with pots or baskets, and preserve clear water corridors between plant clumps.
For a larger naturalistic pond
- Submerged pondweed or wild celery plus coontail for underwater structure.
- A limited area of native water lily for floating cover.
- Arrowhead, pickerelweed, and blue flag iris across shallow shelves.
- Sedges and rushes along the transition from water to land.
- Bulrush or bur-reed where the pond has enough room for mature spread.
- Joe-Pye weed and buttonbush around the edge for prey support, wind buffering, and adult shelter.
This arrangement creates a mosaic rather than a solid wall of vegetation. That mosaic is important: dragonflies need cover and stems, but adults also need open water and sunny airspace.
For a garden without a pond
- Joe-Pye weed, swamp milkweed, wild bergamot, and cardinal flower where soil moisture permits.
- Black-eyed Susan or another locally native flowering perennial for a sunny meadow.
- Native grasses, sedges, shrubs, rocks, logs, and standing stems for perches and shelter.
- No broad-spectrum insecticides, which can remove both dragonflies and the insects they hunt.
This design can make the garden better for visiting adult dragonflies, particularly if a wetland, stream, or pond is nearby. It usually will not support the aquatic nymph stage. A rain garden may provide temporary water, shoreline habitat, and prey, but water that dries quickly is not equivalent to a persistent breeding pond.
How to design and plant the pond
1. Choose a sunny location with some wind protection
Dragonflies commonly become most active around sunny water and use warm perches for basking. Some wind protection helps, but a pond under dense shade is likely to support a different community from a sunny pond. Keep part of the water and nearby vegetation open for flight and hunting. Before excavation, locate underground utilities and check local construction, water-feature, and aquatic-plant rules.
2. Build several depths, including a shallow shelf
A uniform, steep-sided basin limits planting options and wildlife access. Incorporate gently sloping margins and a shallow planting shelf approximately 9 to 18 inches deep. The Xerces backyard-pond guide recommends that, for a small pond of up to approximately 215 square feet, the deepest section be about 2.5 feet so it is less likely to freeze solid. Larger ponds may need a deepest area of approximately 4 feet or more, particularly in colder regions. These are design guidelines, not requirements for every species; climate, water permanence, pond size, and local dragonfly fauna all matter. Read the full pond-habitat guide before finalizing dimensions.
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The Xerces/Migratory Dragonfly Partnership guide gives these approximate starting points:
- 50–70% total vegetation cover
- About 5% emergent plants
- 10–25% floating plants
- 25–50% submerged plants
- The remainder as open water
These ranges are planning guidance, not a formula to apply mechanically. Dense vegetation with no flight space can be as unhelpful as a sterile pond with no cover. Thin or divide plants when they eliminate open water, block access, or become a monoculture.
4. Install plants in baskets or pots when spread control matters
Use aquatic baskets or pots for plants that spread aggressively or need to remain in a particular zone. Clay-rich soil holds aquatic plants more securely than lightweight potting mix, which can float out and cloud the pond. Cover the soil surface with gravel to keep it in place. Do not dump aquarium plants, unidentified pond plants, or excess trimmings into natural waterways.
Add a few light-colored rocks, logs, or branches near—but not across—the water’s open flight space. These features provide additional perches and access points. Include at least one gently accessible edge for wildlife and consider escape features where children, pets, or other animals may enter the water.
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5. Avoid fish when dragonflies are the priority
Do not stock goldfish, koi, or mosquito fish in a pond intended primarily to produce dragonflies unless there is a compelling management reason. Fish eat dragonfly and damselfly nymphs and other aquatic invertebrates, while fish waste can add nutrients and encourage algae. A fish-containing pond can still support odonates, but nymph survival and the adult community may be reduced or changed. If fish are already present, a separate fish-free wildlife pond gives dragonflies better odds. Xerces provides further fish and pond guidance.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Plants and practices to avoid
Invasive or poorly identified aquatic plants
A plant sold for water gardens is not automatically safe to release or plant outdoors. Potential problem plants include:
- Purple loosestrife
- Yellow flag iris
- Eurasian watermilfoil
- Hydrilla
- Curly-leaf pondweed
- Parrot feather, depending on the region and its legal status
Invasiveness and regulation vary by state. Even a plant that is native somewhere in the United States may be inappropriate in another watershed. Check the label, confirm the scientific name, and consult your state extension service, native-plant society, or the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Native Plant Database. Penn State’s aquatic nuisance-plant guidance is a useful reminder that identification and control are part of pond planning.
Overplanting cattails, rushes, lilies, or pickerelweed
These plants can be valuable habitat, but an entire pond edge or surface dominated by one fast-spreading plant loses diversity and open water. Start with small clumps, use containers where practical, and thin plants before they occupy the whole basin. The goal is layered structure, not maximum plant mass.
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Broad-spectrum pesticides and mosquito sprays
Do not treat a dragonfly pond with broad-spectrum insecticides. Sprays and contaminated runoff can harm adults, nymphs, aquatic invertebrates, and the prey community. Habitat-based mosquito management should come first: remove or drain standing water that is not intended as wildlife habitat, prevent containers from holding water, and avoid unnecessary chemical treatment around the pond.
Aquatic larvicides should not be described as automatically harmless to wildlife. Some products can harm aquatic invertebrates, so read the label and obtain appropriate professional or local guidance before using any treatment. The Xerces Society discusses how gardening choices affect waterways.
Trying to make the pond sterile
Dragonflies need an active food web, not a chemically sterile display pool. Avoid routine chemical sterilization and the complete removal of every bit of natural structure. At the same time, excess leaves, sediment, fertilizer, and runoff can overload a small pond, so remove accumulated material selectively and keep nutrients and contaminated runoff out of the basin.
Rain gardens, container ponds, and birdbaths
A rain garden or wet meadow can provide valuable shoreline habitat, prey, and temporary water. It may be especially worthwhile where digging a permanent pond is not feasible. But if it dries rapidly, it is more likely to support visiting adults and wetland insects than species that require water for a multiyear nymph stage.
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Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →A container pond may attract adult dragonflies or damselflies if it has sun, suitable water quality, and plant structure. Its ability to support reproduction depends on its size, permanence, depth, vegetation, predators, and the species living in the surrounding area. A tiny birdbath that is repeatedly emptied, dries out, or freezes solid should be described as a brief wildlife water source—not as a reliable dragonfly nursery. The Xerces backyard-pond guidance covers the difference between a useful pond habitat and a merely decorative water feature.
How to choose local substitutes
Scientific names are more reliable than common names. Blue flag, Joe-Pye weed, rush, sedge, arrowhead, pondweed, and water lily can each refer to multiple species with different ranges and growth habits.
- Identify your state, ecoregion, and local watershed.
- Search the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Native Plant Database for plants native to that area.
- Filter for wetland, pond-edge, rain-garden, submerged, or emergent conditions.
- Check mature height, spread, light, water depth, hardiness, and any state noxious-weed restrictions.
- Buy from a reputable native-plant or aquatic-plant supplier that labels plants by scientific name.
The right local substitute may be more beneficial than one of the named plants above. The key is to preserve the function: submerged cover for nymphs, stems for emergence, floating structure, or insect-rich shoreline vegetation.
What to expect after planting
- Visitors may arrive before the habitat is fully established. A passing adult can use a new pond as a hunting or resting site even before the surrounding plants mature.
- Breeding is not guaranteed. Species composition depends on regional populations, nearby wetlands, water permanence, weather, vegetation, predators, and water quality.
- You may see damselflies as well as dragonflies. That is a normal result of creating suitable odonate habitat.
- A pond can be successful without a large visible population every day. Adults are seasonal predators and may spend part of the day or life cycle away from the pond.
- Mosquito reduction is not guaranteed. Dragonflies eat mosquitoes, but they are generalist predators that also eat many other flying insects. Their abundance and feeding rates vary by species, weather, prey availability, and season. They are part of a food web, not a mosquito-control product. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources discusses this distinction.
The best measure of success is not whether a particular plant attracts a particular dragonfly on demand. It is whether the finished garden provides persistent water, layered vegetation, open sunny flight space, prey, shelter, and low chemical pressure.
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Do I need a pond to attract dragonflies?
Not necessarily for a brief visit. Sunny native plants, tall stems, rocks, logs, and nearby wet habitat can provide hunting and resting sites. A pond or other persistent freshwater feature is usually necessary to support the aquatic nymph stage and local reproduction.
Should I put fish in a dragonfly pond?
Usually not if dragonflies are the priority. Fish can eat dragonfly nymphs and other aquatic invertebrates and can increase nutrient and algae problems. Fish-containing ponds may still have dragonflies, but a separate fish-free pond generally offers better conditions for nymph survival.
Will dragonflies eliminate mosquitoes?
No. Dragonflies do eat mosquitoes, but they are generalist predators and their numbers and feeding rates vary. A diverse, fish-free pond and pesticide-free garden support a healthier food web, but they cannot guarantee a mosquito-free yard.
The Bottom Line
For the best chance of attracting and supporting dragonflies, build or improve a sunny, persistent, fish-free pond with gently sloping 9–18-inch shelves, a deeper refuge zone, open water, and a mix of submerged, floating, emergent, marginal, and upland native plants. Use the 17 species here as functional options, not a universal ranking, and replace them with plants native to your local watershed whenever necessary. A flower garden without water can welcome visiting adults, but only aquatic habitat can support the nymph stage.
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