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Bettesworth Construction
emergency preparedness

12 Things You Should Do Now to Protect Your Home From Freezing Weather

A practical, U.S.-oriented checklist for preventing frozen pipes, heating failures, ice-dam damage, and dangerous carbon-monoxide mistakes before a hard freeze.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 10 min read
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Frozen water can split a pipe before you see a leak. Water expands as it freezes, increasing pressure inside plumbing. The pipe may fail while the ice blockage is still in place—and the flooding may begin only after the ice melts.

Before the next hard freeze, focus on exposed plumbing, heat, drainage, roof and attic conditions, and emergency readiness. The exact risk depends on your climate, construction, plumbing layout, and whether you have a basement, crawl space, fire-sprinkler system, or irrigation system. No single thermostat setting or product guarantees that a home will not freeze.

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This checklist is written for U.S. homeowners and is useful across much of the country, but local weather forecasts and building conditions should guide your decisions. Start before the coldest night—not after a faucet stops flowing.

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1. Check the forecast and make a vulnerability map

Look for your local National Weather Service forecast, freeze watch, or freeze warning. Then walk through the house with a flashlight and identify every water line in a cold, unheated, or drafty location.

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  • Exterior walls, especially behind kitchen or bathroom cabinets
  • Attics, crawl spaces, garages, and unfinished basements
  • Areas near the point where the water service enters the foundation
  • Pipes near drafty doors, windows, vents, or plumbing penetrations
  • Outdoor faucets, hose bibs, irrigation lines, and fire-sprinkler piping

Photograph or label vulnerable areas so you can find them quickly during an outage or emergency. A house with well-insulated interior plumbing in a mild climate may have little risk, while a poorly insulated exterior wall or unheated crawl space can freeze even when the rest of the home feels warm.

2. Insulate exposed water pipes

Install purpose-made foam pipe insulation sleeves on accessible water pipes in attics, crawl spaces, garages, basements, and exterior walls. Insulation slows heat loss; it does not make freezing impossible, particularly during prolonged or severe cold.

Choose sleeves that fit the pipe and the conditions. Cover fittings and vulnerable sections as completely as practical, and follow the insulation manufacturer’s installation instructions. Do not use insulation to conceal an existing leak or damaged pipe.

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Foam pipe insulation sleeves for exposed pipes are the clearest first purchase for a typical homeowner because they are inexpensive and require no electrical connection.

If insulation alone will not protect a pipe, a properly selected UL-listed heat tape or heat cable for water pipes may be appropriate. Use only a product listed for the specific pipe material and location, and follow its electrical, spacing, thermostat, and installation instructions exactly. Heat tape is not universally safe, and damaged, overlapped, or incorrectly installed products can create a fire or shock hazard. When in doubt, have an electrician or qualified plumber evaluate the installation.

3. Seal drafts around plumbing and the exterior

Cold air entering around a pipe can freeze the plumbing even when the surrounding room is heated. Inspect places where pipes, wiring, dryer vents, ducts, and other services pass through exterior walls, floors, foundations, and cabinets.

Use caulk or an appropriate low-expansion foam for stationary gaps, and use weatherstripping or a door sweep around movable doors and windows. Door weatherstripping, door sweeps, and window-and-door caulk can reduce drafts at common leakage points, including around outdoor faucets and plumbing penetrations.

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Follow the product label, and do not seal or obstruct required combustion-air openings, ventilation openings, dryer vents, or other safety systems. If you cannot tell whether an opening is intentional, have it assessed before sealing it.

4. Disconnect hoses and winterize outdoor faucets and irrigation

Remove garden hoses, splitters, timers, and other attachments from outdoor hose bibs. An attached hose can trap water and prevent the faucet from draining properly.

  1. Remove the hose and attachments.
  2. If the plumbing has an interior shutoff valve, close it.
  3. Open the exterior faucet to drain remaining water where the plumbing design permits.
  4. Close the faucet after it has drained, unless the faucet or shutoff manufacturer’s instructions say otherwise.

Frost-free hose bibs still need proper hose removal and may freeze if they were installed incorrectly, damaged, or unable to drain. Do not assume that every outdoor faucet has the same design.

In-ground sprinkler systems usually need a manufacturer-approved winterization procedure, often including a professional blowout. Turning off the controller is not enough. An irrigation winterization service may be appropriate if you do not know how to remove water from the system safely.

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Important: Do not shut off or drain a water supply serving an automatic fire-sprinkler system unless the system has been properly addressed by a qualified fire-protection professional. A disabled sprinkler system can create a serious safety risk.

5. Let warm air reach vulnerable indoor plumbing

Keep garage doors closed when water lines run through the garage. During very cold weather, open the cabinet doors beneath kitchen and bathroom sinks if those cabinets are on exterior walls. This allows warmer room air to circulate around the pipes.

Before opening cabinets, move cleaners, chemicals, sharp objects, and other hazards out of the reach of children and pets. Do not use this step to expose plumbing to a space heater or other unattended heat source.

6. Keep the thermostat steady—and use the 55°F rule carefully

Keep the home heated at a consistent setting during extreme cold rather than making a large nighttime temperature setback. If you leave the property during freezing weather, a commonly cited recommendation from the American Red Cross is to leave the heat on at no lower than 55°F and ask a trusted person to check the home if possible.

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That number is a commonly recommended minimum-away setting, not a guarantee. A pipe in an exterior wall, attic, garage, or unheated crawl space can freeze while the central thermostat reads above 55°F. Keep interior doors open where practical, close garage doors, and address exposed plumbing directly.

If you have a vacant property, consider arranging regular inspections and knowing how the heating system, water supply, alarms, and freeze monitoring operate before you leave.

7. Use a controlled faucet drip only when appropriate

When temperatures are very low and a faucet is supplied by vulnerable plumbing, a small, steady flow can help keep water moving and may relieve pressure between a faucet and an ice blockage. The drip is a backup measure—not a substitute for insulation, air sealing, or draining outdoor plumbing.

Use the smallest flow that is effective, and choose a faucet served by the exposed section of pipe. Local water utilities may have different instructions, and continuous dripping can waste water or reveal a plumbing defect. If a faucet is already leaking or the drain cannot handle the flow, correct that problem rather than leaving it unattended.

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8. Service heating equipment, chimneys, and vents

Have fuel-burning furnaces, boilers, fireplaces, wood stoves, water heaters, chimneys, flues, and vents inspected and maintained by a qualified professional. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends annual professional inspection of these systems, and the National Fire Protection Association recommends annual cleaning and inspection of heating equipment and chimneys.

A qualified contractor can identify blocked vents, damaged flues, combustion problems, unsafe connections, and equipment that may fail during a cold spell. A suitable furnace inspection or chimney inspection and cleaning is more than a convenience when the home depends on combustion equipment for heat.

Check the thermostat and replace its battery if applicable. Check the heating-system filter according to the equipment and filter manufacturer’s schedule; the U.S. Department of Energy advises checking filters monthly during the heating season. Replace a filter with the exact size and type specified for your equipment, not merely one that looks similar. A replacement furnace air filter is useful only when it matches the system’s requirements.

9. Check attic conditions and clear gutters

In snowy or northern climates, inspect attic insulation and ventilation before winter and clear leaves and debris from gutters and downspouts. Poor attic insulation or ventilation can allow heat to escape through the roof, melt snow unevenly, and contribute to ice dams at colder roof edges.

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Ice dams can back up water beneath shingles and damage ceilings, walls, insulation, and contents. Persistent ice dams may indicate an air-sealing, insulation, ventilation, or roof-drainage problem rather than a problem that can be solved by removing snow once.

Do not climb onto an icy roof. A ground-operated roof rake for snow may help some homeowners in snowy climates reduce heavy snow accumulation, but it must be used from a safe position and according to its instructions. For roof access, attic corrections, gutter work at height, or recurring ice dams, use a qualified roof, gutter, and attic-weatherization service.

10. Locate and test the main water shutoff

Find the home’s main water shutoff now, before a pipe bursts. Make sure it can be operated, label it clearly, and show every adult in the household where it is. The valve may be near the water meter, where the service enters the foundation, or in another location determined by the home’s plumbing design.

If a pipe breaks, shutting off the main supply can limit flooding and secondary damage. Do not wait to search for the valve while water is running through walls, ceilings, or electrical areas.

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A water leak and freeze detector can provide supplemental alerts in a basement, utility room, or other vulnerable area. Some professionally installed systems can automatically shut off the home’s water supply. These devices do not replace the manual shutoff, regular inspections, or a working heating system. Automatic shutoff installation may require a qualified plumber, particularly in a complex system or a home with fire sprinklers.

11. Test alarms and prepare for a power outage

Test smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms before the heating season and after any battery replacement. CPSC guidance calls for smoke alarms on every level and inside each bedroom, and carbon-monoxide alarms on every level and outside sleeping areas. Use battery-operated or battery-backup alarms, test them monthly, and replace batteries at least annually unless the alarm has a sealed 10-year battery.

Keep an emergency supply kit with:

  • Flashlights or lanterns and fresh batteries
  • Drinking water and nonperishable food
  • Necessary medicines
  • Blankets and warm clothing
  • A battery-powered radio
  • Charged phones and backup power where available

A battery-powered emergency lantern or winter-storm flashlight is safer and more dependable than relying on candles during an outage. Keep lighting and batteries where everyone can find them.

If you use a portable generator, operate it outdoors at least 20 feet from doors, windows, and vents, with exhaust directed away from the building. Never operate it inside a home, basement, shed, or garage—even with the garage door open. Use a battery-operated or battery-backup carbon-monoxide detector, and follow the generator manufacturer’s instructions and applicable electrical-safety requirements.

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12. Know what to do if a pipe freezes or bursts

If a faucet only produces a trickle

A partially blocked faucet may indicate a frozen pipe. Leave the faucet open so pressure can escape as the ice melts. Check other faucets because more than one pipe may be frozen.

If the frozen section is accessible, apply gentle heat with an electric heating pad, hair dryer, or another approved method. Keep the heat moving as directed, keep combustible materials away, and protect electrical equipment from water. An electric heating pad for frozen pipe thawing should be used only if it is appropriate for the situation and its instructions are followed.

Never use a blowtorch, propane or kerosene heater, charcoal stove, or any other open flame to thaw a pipe. Open flames can ignite building materials and may create dangerous fumes. Do not use a space heater in a cramped or wet location.

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If the pipe bursts or the frozen section cannot be found

  1. Shut off the main water supply immediately, if it is safe to do so.
  2. Open faucets carefully to relieve pressure.
  3. Keep away from standing water near electrical equipment.
  4. Move belongings if doing so is safe, and document damage for your insurer.
  5. Call a licensed plumber for frozen pipes or emergency burst-pipe repair.

Call a licensed plumber if the pipe is inaccessible, pressure does not return after thawing, the leak is inside a wall or ceiling, the pipe has burst, or the same area repeatedly freezes. A professional can locate hidden damage, repair the line, and recommend insulation, air sealing, rerouting, or water-shutoff improvements.

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Longer-term improvements for recurring problems

If the same pipes freeze every winter, treat that as a building or plumbing problem rather than relying on a faucet drip. Possible improvements include relocating pipes away from exterior walls, insulating and air-sealing the rim joist, correcting attic or crawl-space conditions, protecting an exposed water service, and improving heating distribution.

A home energy audit or air-sealing contractor can help identify recurring drafts, inadequate insulation, and heat loss. Any work involving gas, combustion equipment, electrical wiring, roof access, or changes to fire-sprinkler piping should be assigned to the appropriate qualified professional.

Frequently Asked Questions

What temperature should I keep my house at to prevent frozen pipes?

If you leave during freezing weather, the American Red Cross commonly advises leaving the heat on at no lower than 55°F. This is not a guarantee. Pipes in exterior walls, garages, attics, crawl spaces, or poorly insulated areas can freeze at higher indoor thermostat settings, so exposed plumbing should also be insulated and protected.

Should I leave a faucet dripping during a freeze?

A small, controlled flow can help in some situations when a faucet is supplied by vulnerable plumbing, but it is not a substitute for insulation or draining outdoor plumbing. Use the smallest effective flow, make sure the drain can handle it, and follow local utility guidance.

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Can I use a torch to thaw a frozen pipe?

No. Never use a blowtorch, propane or kerosene heater, charcoal stove, or other open flame. Use gentle heat such as an appropriate electric heating pad or hair dryer while keeping combustible materials away, or call a licensed plumber.

Should I shut off the water when I leave for winter?

That depends on the property and its systems. Shutting off and draining domestic plumbing may reduce flood risk in some vacant homes, but do not shut off water serving an automatic fire-sprinkler system without qualified professional guidance. Arrange a property check and confirm the heating, alarm, plumbing, and sprinkler requirements first.

The Bottom Line

Before the freeze arrives, insulate exposed pipes, seal drafts, disconnect hoses, protect irrigation and sprinkler systems correctly, keep the heat steady, and learn the main water shutoff. Service combustion equipment, prepare for an outage, and never use an open flame to thaw plumbing. These steps reduce risk, but unusual construction or recurring freezing calls for a qualified plumber, HVAC professional, roofer, or weatherization contractor.

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