Tomato holes most often come from chewing caterpillars, slugs or snails, or animals. The hole’s depth and location—and clues such as frass, slime trails, or chewed leaves—can help identify the culprit. Pale cloudy spots are more consistent with stink bug feeding than chewing, while some sunken or blistered marks are not pest holes at all.
How to diagnose a hole in a tomato
Examine the damaged fruit from the outside and, if it is safe to do so, cut it open. Note whether the tomato is green or ripe, where the opening sits, and whether the damage is a deep cavity, shallow scrape, or pale spot. Look for frass (insect droppings), cast skins, slime, nearby chewed leaves, or bite marks. A single clue may not identify the cause, so compare several signs.
| What you see | Likely cause | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Deep, watery cavity, often starting near the stem; frass or cast skins inside; fruit may ripen early | Tomato fruitworm, also called corn earworm | Inspect fruit and nearby leaves for small larvae or eggs. |
| Large gouges on fruit along with eaten leaves or severe defoliation | Tomato hornworm | Look over stems and foliage for a large green caterpillar with a conspicuous horn-like tail. |
| Irregular surface chewing or hollowing, often on fruit touching or close to soil | Slugs or snails | Check after dark for the pests and look for shiny slime trails. |
| Torn, pecked, or gnawed fruit; sometimes part of the fruit is missing | Birds or small mammals | Look for bite or peck marks and consider when the damage occurs. |
| Pale or yellow cloudy spots, pinpricks, or corky tissue beneath the skin, without a large chewing cavity | Stink bugs | Look for shield-shaped insects and small feeding punctures. |
| Dark, sunken lesions on overripe fruit or pale, blistered areas on fruit exposed to sun | Possible anthracnose or sunscald | Consider whether the fruit was overripe or exposed after foliage was lost. |
What each kind of damage means
Deep holes: check for fruitworms
A deep, watery cavity, especially one that begins at the stem end, points toward tomato fruitworm. Frass or a cast skin inside strengthens the clue; affected fruit may ripen prematurely. The larva can be difficult to reach once it has entered the tomato.
Gouges and missing leaves: check for hornworms
Hornworms can chew large areas of fruit, but the foliage damage is often the more obvious sign. Inspect stems and leaves for the large green caterpillar and its horn-like tail. University of Minnesota Extension says tomato hornworms may grow up to 4 inches long; the page does not state a publication year. University of Minnesota Extension’s tomato hornworm guide has identification details.
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Shallow chewing near the ground: check for slugs or snails
Slugs and snails are more likely when fruit is close to the soil and the damage is shallow or hollowed rather than a deep entry tunnel. Inspect after dark and check for slime trails. Fruit resting on soil is especially worth examining.
Torn or pecked fruit: consider animals
Birds or small mammals can tear, peck, or gnaw tomatoes, sometimes removing part of a fruit. The exact animal is not established by a damaged tomato alone. The pattern and timing of damage can help guide a suitable exclusion method.
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Cloudy spots are usually not holes
Stink bugs pierce the skin to feed, which can leave pale or yellow cloudy blemishes and damage tissue below the surface. That differs from a chewing cavity. University of Minnesota Extension’s stink bug guide describes their feeding signs.
Some lesions are not feeding damage
Dark sunken marks on overripe tomatoes may be anthracnose, while pale blisters on fruit exposed to strong sun may be sunscald. These can resemble pest damage at a glance, so consider the fruit’s ripeness and whether foliage loss left it exposed. University of Minnesota Extension’s tomato disease guide helps distinguish disease signs.
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What to do once you have a likely cause
For fruitworms and hornworms
- Inspect plants and fruit regularly, and handpick caterpillars or eggs where practical.
- For a confirmed caterpillar problem, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) can target young exposed larvae. Timing matters: it cannot reach fruitworms already protected inside tomatoes, and it does not address slugs, stink bugs, or animals.
- Remove infested fruit rather than relying on a spray to reach larvae inside it. Follow the product label for any pesticide use.
University of Minnesota Extension’s tomato fruitworm guidance explains the pest and control timing; its hornworm guide covers inspection and management.
For slugs or snails
- Inspect at night, when they are active, and reduce nearby hiding places.
- Keep fruit off the soil with suitable supports or by managing plant growth.
- Consider traps or barriers only when slug or snail signs are present; they are not general fixes for tomato holes.
University of Minnesota Extension’s slug guide covers identification and control options.
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For animal damage
- Use physical exclusion appropriate to the animal and your garden setup; fruit bags or barriers may help.
- If damage is occurring as tomatoes ripen, consider harvesting before they are fully ripe.
Scent repellents may have limited, temporary success, according to Iowa State University Extension’s guidance on keeping squirrels and rabbits out of gardens.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Why identifying the pest first matters
Different signs call for different responses. Bt is relevant to young, exposed caterpillars, not larvae hidden inside fruit; traps and barriers are options for confirmed slug or snail activity; physical exclusion fits animal damage. Treating without matching the method to the likely cause may leave the actual problem untouched.
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