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Bettesworth Construction
Basement Moisture

What Is a Spider Cricket? 6 Ways to Get Rid of This Basement Pest

Spider crickets are usually camel or cave crickets—not spiders. Learn how to identify them and use six practical steps to control basement moisture, seal entry points, remove shelter, vacuum, trap, and escalate safely when needed.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 9 min read
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A “spider cricket” is usually a camel cricket or cave cricket—an insect, not a spider. It gets its name from its long legs and antennae. These crickets are generally nuisance pests, but repeated basement sightings often point to dampness, shelter, or an unsealed entry route. The lasting solution is to correct those building conditions, then remove and monitor the insects.

A “spider cricket” is usually a camel cricket or cave cricket—an insect, not a spider. It gets its common name from its unusually long rear legs and antennae. Camel crickets are generally nuisance pests rather than dangerous insects, but repeated sightings in a basement are worth investigating because they usually indicate a combination of moisture, shelter, and an easy route indoors.

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The most reliable way to get rid of them is not simply to spray or crush the crickets you see. Correct the dampness, seal entry points, remove hiding places, vacuum visible insects, and use sticky traps to monitor and reduce the remaining population. If the problem continues, have the basement, crawl space, drainage, and foundation inspected.

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How to identify a spider—or camel—cricket

Household descriptions are not precise enough to identify every cricket to species. In North America, camel crickets are commonly associated with the genus Ceuthophilus, but the exact species varies by region. The following traits make a camel or cave cricket more likely:

  • Hump-backed body: Viewed from the side, the body arches upward.
  • No wings: Camel crickets are wingless, unlike many familiar field and house crickets.
  • Very long legs and antennae: The rear legs give the insect its spider-like appearance and help it jump rapidly.
  • Brown, tan, or darker coloring: Color can vary with species and age.
  • Strong jumping response: They often spring away when disturbed rather than running in a predictable direction.
  • Usually quiet: Camel crickets generally do not produce the familiar chirping associated with house and field crickets.
Feature Camel or cave cricket House or field cricket
Body shape Hump-backed and somewhat arched More conventionally cricket-shaped
Wings Absent Often present, depending on species
Legs and antennae Especially long and spider-like Long, but usually less conspicuous
Noise Usually does not chirp House and field crickets are more commonly associated with chirping
Typical indoor location Cool, damp, dark basements and crawl spaces May occur indoors but are not identified by the same distinctive hump-backed profile

Do not assume that every long-legged insect in a basement is the same species. If the insects have wings, produce persistent chirping, or look substantially different from the description above, the control strategy may need to be adjusted.

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Are spider crickets dangerous?

Camel crickets are generally considered nuisance pests. They typically do not harm people or property, and they should not routinely be described as biting people or spreading disease. Their main problems are their alarming appearance, jumping behavior, occasional contamination of areas where they die or hide, and the nuisance created when numbers become high.

Large numbers can also make it harder to determine whether another moisture or pest issue exists. For that reason, recurring camel crickets should be treated as a prompt to inspect the basement—not as proof that the insects themselves are damaging the structure.

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Why do spider crickets appear in basements?

Camel crickets favor environments that are dark, cool, sheltered, and moist. A basement or crawl space can provide all four conditions at once. Outdoor populations may shelter beneath leaves, logs, stones, lumber, dense groundcover, and other debris before entering a building.

Common routes indoors include:

  • Gaps beneath exterior doors or failed door thresholds
  • Basement windows and damaged window screens
  • Foundation cracks and gaps where walls meet floors
  • Unscreened crawl-space vents
  • Openings around plumbing, wiring, ducts, and other utilities
  • Damaged or poorly sealed dryer-vent penetrations

Look for contributing conditions such as plumbing leaks, foundation seepage, poor grading or drainage, condensation, a damp crawl space, clutter against basement walls, and dense vegetation close to the foundation. A dehumidifier can help lower favorable moisture conditions, but it is not a cure for active water intrusion. If water continues entering through a leak, wall, floor, or foundation joint, the source needs to be repaired.

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6 ways to get rid of spider crickets

1. Dry the basement and fix the moisture source

Moisture control is the highest-value step because it makes the space less suitable for camel crickets and addresses the building condition that may be attracting them.

  1. Check exposed plumbing, water heaters, sump systems, and HVAC components for leaks or condensation.
  2. Inspect foundation walls and floors for seepage, staining, damp patches, or musty areas.
  3. Make sure gutters and downspouts move roof water away from the foundation.
  4. Correct grading or drainage problems that direct water toward the building.
  5. Improve ventilation where appropriate, particularly in a crawl space.
  6. Use a properly sized dehumidifier or fan to dry damp areas after the source of water has been addressed.

There is no universal humidity number that guarantees camel-cricket eradication. The correct target depends on the building, climate, construction, and moisture source. The practical goal is to eliminate standing water and leaks, reduce persistent dampness and condensation, and keep the area dry enough that it no longer provides favorable shelter.

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2. Seal the ways crickets are getting inside

Exclusion is more durable than repeatedly killing insects after they enter. Inspect the entire basement perimeter and the exterior immediately around it.

  • Replace worn door weatherstripping and repair or adjust the threshold.
  • caulk gaps around basement windows and repair damaged screens.
  • Screen crawl-space vents and replace torn vent mesh.
  • Seal suitable gaps around plumbing, wiring, ducts, and other penetrations.
  • Repair foundation cracks when they are appropriate for sealing and have no continuing structural or water problem.
  • Inspect dryer-vent covers and other exterior penetrations for gaps or damaged screens.

Do not seal over active leaks or conceal a structural crack without determining why it exists. A crack that admits water, changes size, or is associated with movement may require a qualified foundation or building professional rather than only a bead of caulk.

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3. Remove basement and foundation clutter

Cardboard, papers, stacked boxes, lumber, bricks, leaf piles, and other debris provide dark hiding places and make it difficult to find both crickets and moisture. Move stored materials away from basement walls where practical, raise them off damp floors, and dispose of heavily damaged cardboard.

Outside, remove leaf piles and excess debris beside the foundation, trim groundcover that touches the structure, and store firewood away from the house rather than against the foundation. Keep refuse containers from creating a sheltered, damp harborage immediately next to the building.

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Reducing clutter is not just housekeeping. It exposes wall-floor joints, utility penetrations, and damp areas so they can be inspected and repaired.

4. Vacuum visible crickets

Vacuuming is a practical, low-toxicity way to remove camel crickets already inside. Use a hose attachment around basement corners, wall-floor joints, window wells, utility penetrations, and other areas where activity is concentrated.

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Empty the canister or remove the vacuum bag promptly, preferably outdoors, so captured insects do not remain inside the machine. Vacuuming deals with the crickets you can see; it does not correct the moisture, clutter, or entry route that may be producing new sightings.

5. Use sticky traps for capture and monitoring

Place sticky traps labeled for cricket control along basement walls, near suspected entry points, and in areas where crickets have been seen. Traps can reduce indoor numbers and reveal where activity is concentrated. Check them regularly and replace them when they become full, dusty, or ineffective.

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If you want a simple monitoring product, camel cricket sticky traps are a logical choice for this step. Choose traps whose labeling covers the intended pest and indoor use, and place them where children and pets cannot contact them.

Sticky traps are a monitoring and capture tool—not a replacement for drying the basement and sealing entry points. If traps keep catching crickets, use their locations as clues: activity along one wall may point toward a window, foundation gap, door, or damp void nearby.

6. Use pesticides only when lower-risk measures are insufficient

For ordinary camel-cricket sightings, indiscriminate indoor spraying should not be the first response. Integrated pest management prioritizes prevention, exclusion, inspection, monitoring, trapping, and physical removal, with pesticides reserved for situations in which those measures are not enough.

If you use a pesticide:

  • Confirm that the current label covers the specific pest, location, and application method.
  • Follow every label direction, including ventilation, application limits, and reentry instructions.
  • Keep children, pets, and other occupants away as directed.
  • Do not spray indiscriminately throughout a basement.
  • Never apply an outdoor product indoors unless its label specifically permits that use.
  • Do not use a pesticide to compensate for unresolved leaks, drainage failures, or open entry points.

Product labels and permitted uses can differ by country, state, or province and can change over time. If the infestation is persistent or substantial, a licensed pest-management professional can determine whether treatment is justified and apply products according to the applicable requirements.

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How to find the source of a recurring infestation

When sightings continue, treat the basement as a building-diagnostic problem as well as a pest problem. Use this short inspection sequence:

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  1. Map sightings: Note the room, wall, window, drain, utility penetration, and time of day.
  2. Check moisture: Look for leaks, condensation, damp masonry, wet insulation, staining, and musty odors.
  3. Inspect the perimeter: Examine doors, thresholds, windows, vents, foundation joints, and penetrations.
  4. Check the exterior: Look at downspouts, grading, leaf buildup, vegetation, firewood, and debris beside the foundation.
  5. Trap and reassess: Use sticky traps after corrective work to see whether activity is declining and where any remaining insects are concentrated.

This approach is more informative than counting how many insects are killed after each pesticide application. A declining trap count after drying and sealing suggests the building conditions have improved; continued captures indicate that an entry route or moisture source may remain.

When should you call a professional?

Consider professional help when:

  • Crickets continue appearing after moisture, clutter, and entry points have been addressed.
  • There are large numbers throughout the basement or crawl space.
  • Water enters through the foundation, floor, or wall and the source is not clear.
  • The crawl space is inaccessible, persistently damp, or contaminated by damaged insulation.
  • You suspect a drainage, grading, foundation, or structural problem.
  • You are considering pesticide treatment but are not comfortable selecting or applying it safely.

A licensed pest-control professional can inspect for harborage and entry points and determine whether treatment is warranted. A basement waterproofing, drainage, plumbing, or crawl-space moisture specialist may be the more appropriate first call when water intrusion is the underlying issue. Verify licensing, service area, scope of work, and whether the inspection addresses the moisture source rather than promising that pesticide alone will solve the problem.

Bottom line

Spider crickets are usually camel or cave crickets, recognizable by their hump-backed, wingless bodies, long legs, and powerful jumps. They are generally nuisance insects, not a sign that the home is infested with dangerous spiders. To get rid of them, dry the basement, correct leaks and drainage, seal doors and openings, remove clutter and outdoor shelter, vacuum visible insects, and use sticky traps to monitor activity. Use pesticides cautiously and only when lower-risk measures are not sufficient.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a spider cricket?

Spider crickets are usually camel or cave crickets, not spiders. They are hump-backed, wingless insects with very long legs and antennae, and they often jump when disturbed.

Are spider crickets dangerous?

They are generally nuisance pests rather than dangerous insects. Recurring sightings are still worth investigating because dampness, clutter, or openings around the foundation may be allowing them to live or enter indoors.

What is the fastest way to get rid of spider crickets in a basement?

Start by correcting leaks and persistent dampness, then seal doors, windows, vents, foundation gaps, and utility penetrations. Vacuum visible crickets and place sticky traps along walls and near suspected entry points.

Will a dehumidifier get rid of spider crickets?

A dehumidifier can reduce favorable damp conditions, but it will not fix active water intrusion. Repair leaks, improve drainage, and address condensation or crawl-space moisture as needed.

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When should I call pest control for spider crickets?

Call a licensed pest professional when the infestation is persistent or extensive, when pesticide treatment is being considered, or when the source appears connected to foundation seepage, drainage, or inaccessible crawl-space moisture.

The Bottom Line

The durable fix is building control, not just insect control: remove the dampness and shelter, close the entry routes, then use vacuuming and sticky traps to clear and monitor the remaining crickets.

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