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For a smooth finish, choose the coarsest grit needed to remove the defects, then move through finer grits until each pass removes the scratches left by the last. Sand with the grain on finishing passes, clear away dust before coating, and use the finish maker’s preparation and recoat instructions. There is no single final grit that suits every wood, stain, paint, or clear coat.
Choose a starting grit for the surface
Start with the finest abrasive that will still remove the imperfections you can see. Beginning too coarse creates scratches that take extra work to remove; starting with an already-smooth surface does not call for coarse sanding by default.
Norton Abrasives says planed or shaped wood typically starts at 80 grit, while wood without blemishes may start at 100 grit. Its general examples include sequences such as 80 to 120 and 100 to 150, with sanding sometimes continuing to 220 grit. These are broad guidelines, not a required sequence for every project. See Norton’s bare-wood sanding guide.
Inspect the wood before choosing: note whether it is rough or already machined, whether it has scratches or dents, and whether the next step is paint, stain, or clear coat. The wood species and grain also matter, particularly when staining.
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Match the grit sequence to the finish
Each finer pass should remove the marks left by the previous grit. Stop when the surface is appropriately prepared for the coating rather than pursuing the highest grit available. General Finishes cautions, “Do not over sand with the final grits.” Excessive sanding can reduce finish acceptance.
General Finishes gives the following raw-wood sequences for its finish-preparation guidance. Treat them as product-specific recommendations, not universal rules; other manufacturers may specify different preparation grits. If the finish maker provides a grit on the label or in its technical guidance, follow that direction.
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| Intended finish on raw wood | General Finishes recommendation |
|---|---|
| Paint | 120, then 150 grit |
| Water-based stain on closed-grain wood | 150, then 180 grit |
| Water-based stain on open-grain wood | 180, then 220 grit |
| Water-based clear coat | 120, then 150 or 220 grit |
| Oil-based stain | 120, then 150 grit |
| Oil-based clear coat | Up to 150 grit |
These recommendations appear in General Finishes University’s raw-wood prep sanding guidance. Norton’s broader advice illustrates why a single sequence should not be imposed on every finish: its guide gives different general starting points and sequences, and notes that wood species affects staining.
Sand without leaving new defects
- On the finishing passes, move along the grain. Sanding across it can leave marks that show through stain or clear finish.
- Keep a power sander moving, use light pressure, and avoid dwelling in one spot. Excessive pressure can clog the abrasive or leave indentations.
- Inspect the surface after each grit change. Look for scratches from the previous abrasive and low spots that finer sanding might disguise rather than remove.
- For hand sanding, follow the same progression: each finer grit should remove the scratches left by the previous one. A sanding block can help keep contact even on flat areas.
Norton describes the purpose this way: “The goal when sanding is to take away material from the surface to remove imperfections and/or shape edges.” Its bare-wood sanding guide covers grit selection and technique.
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Remove dust before applying stain or finish
Dust left on the surface can interfere with a clean coating. Vacuum or brush it away, then wipe the wood with a clean cloth or a tack cloth if it is compatible with the finish you plan to use. Follow the finish maker’s instructions about cleaning materials; if you use a damp method, let the wood dry completely before coating.
Remove dust between sanding stages when needed and always clean the finish-sanded surface before application. WOOD Magazine recommends vacuuming and wiping finish-sanded wood before applying finish in its finish-sanding guidance. Minwax also covers progressive sanding, sanding with the grain, and dust removal in its wood preparation guide.
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Sand between coats only after the coating is ready
Between-coat sanding is different from preparing bare wood. Its purpose is to smooth dust nibs and imperfections in a dried coating, and sanding too soon can damage the coat. Wait for the drying time specified by the finish maker and follow its sanding and recoat directions.
Norton’s general recommendations are:
| Coating stage | Norton recommendation |
|---|---|
| First oil- or water-based sealer coat | 180–220 grit |
| First paint coat | 220 grit |
| After the next coat of an oil-based finish | 220 grit |
| After the next coat of a water-based finish or paint | 320 grit |
| Before the last coat on a painted high-gloss surface | Optional 400-grit pass |
These are Norton’s recommendations, not instructions for every coating. Check the product’s current label or technical guidance for drying, sanding, and recoating requirements. Norton’s broader four-stage overview appears in its 2025 UK DIY catalogue.
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