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What you need before resawing
Check the board’s height against your bandsaw’s maximum cutting height; that machine-specific limit determines whether the stock can pass through the saw. Prepare a stable, flat face to ride on the table and a straight edge to register against a fence or guide. Mark the intended cut line and make sure the stock can be supported throughout the cut, especially if it is long.
- Consult the saw manual for usable cutting height and compatible blade length, width, and tension.
- Use a sharp blade intended for a long rip cut. A dull blade can slow the cut and wander.
- Check that the table is square to the blade, the blade tracks correctly, and the guides are positioned as the manual directs.
- Keep hands clear of the blade path; use an appropriate push stick, block, or paddle to finish the cut.
Choose a blade for the saw and the cut
Resawing favors a relatively wide blade with a low tooth count and hook- or skip-tooth geometry. The wider blade can be less prone to lead, while larger gullets help clear sawdust from a deep cut. These are useful selection principles, not a universal blade specification: follow the manual for your particular saw and the blade maker’s guidance.
| Source-specific guidance | What it says | How to use it |
|---|---|---|
| WOOD Magazine’s adjustable resaw-guide setup | Recommends a 1/2- to 3/4-inch skip- or hook-tooth blade. | Apply only where the blade fits the saw and is compatible with its requirements. |
| Woodcraft’s resawing guidance | Describes a low-TPI hook-tooth blade, commonly 1/2 to 3/4 inch for a 14-inch bandsaw; its discussion includes 3–4 TPI. | Treat this as guidance for the described saw context, not a rule for every 14-inch saw. |
| Grizzly G0513 Series Bandsaws Owner’s Manual | Recommends the widest blade the saw accepts and says 3–6 TPI hook- or skip-tooth blades suit many resaw applications. | Check the exact model manual before choosing blade width or tension. |
The Grizzly manual states: “One of the most important considerations for resawing is blade selection—a wide blade cuts straighter and is less prone to blade lead.” That guidance does not override the width limits of another saw. A dull blade, clogged gullets, unsuitable tooth geometry, or excessive feed pressure can all contribute to a poor cut.
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- Milled teeth are 50 PERCENT SHARPER than competitors stamped or crush ground blades
- Precision Induction hardening throughout the blade vs competitors flame hardening
- Tooth edge is 20 PERCENT harder than any high carbon steel resulting in extended sharp time
- More ductile steel than any high carbon steel leads to extended flex life and a cooler running blade
Sources: WOOD Magazine’s Bandsaw Resawing Guide; Grizzly G0513 Series Bandsaws Owner’s Manual; Woodcraft’s Resawing Basics.
Set up the saw and account for blade drift
Blade drift, sometimes called lead, is the angle at which the blade naturally tracks through the stock. It may not line up with the table’s front-to-back direction. If you set a fence parallel to the table without checking the blade’s path, the board can be pushed sideways during the cut, causing a bowed edge or inconsistent thickness.
Rank #2
- Milled teeth are 50 PERCENT SHARPER than competitors stamped or crush ground blades
- Precision Induction hardening throughout the blade vs competitors flame hardening
- Tooth edge is 20 PERCENT harder than any high carbon steel resulting in extended sharp time
- More ductile steel than any high carbon steel leads to extended flex life and a cooler running blade
- With the saw adjusted according to its manual, verify blade condition and tracking, table alignment, tension, and guide position. Keep the guides close to the stock as the manual directs.
- Make a test cut along a straight mark, feeding the board so the blade can find its natural path without being forced back onto the mark.
- Note the angle of the board relative to the table while the cut tracks straight.
- Set a fixed fence to that angle, or use a single-point or curved guide that lets you steer the board along the marked line.
- Make another test cut and adjust the fence or your steering until the cut follows the line at the intended thickness.
A fixed fence can make repeated slices more consistent after it is aligned to drift. An adjustable guide offers more freedom to steer along a marked line, but requires active control and can change slice thickness if the board’s angle varies. A shop-made guide is also an option; a purchased accessory is not required.
Tension and guide-clearance procedures vary by saw and blade. Woodcraft describes a flutter test and specific clearances, but those details should not be treated as universal settings. Use the exact saw manual and blade maker’s instructions rather than applying one tension number or clearance to all machines. WOOD Magazine also explains drift setup in its bandsaw resaw setup guide.
Rank #3
- Milled teeth are 50 PERCENT SHARPER than competitors stamped or crush ground blades
- Precision Induction hardening throughout the blade vs competitors flame hardening
- Tooth edge is 20 PERCENT harder than any high carbon steel resulting in extended sharp time
- More ductile steel than any high carbon steel leads to extended flex life and a cooler running blade
Make the cut with controlled pressure
- Place the stable face flat on the table and register the straight edge against the fence or guide, if using one. Align the marked cut line for the intended slice.
- Set the upper guide assembly close to the workpiece as directed by the manual, and arrange support so long stock stays controlled as it enters and exits the cut.
- Start the saw and feed the board smoothly. Keep the stock in consistent contact with the table and fence or guide.
- Use a suitable push aid as needed to complete the cut while keeping your hands out of the blade path.
- If the blade slows, bows, or requires force, stop rather than pushing harder. Check the blade and setup before continuing.
Do not stand or place your hands in the blade’s likely path if it wanders or leaves the cut. A push aid helps keep hands clear, but it does not replace stable stock support or controlled feeding.
Fix wandering cuts, burning, and uneven slices
| Symptom | Checks and response |
|---|---|
| Cut wanders or bows | Stop and check blade sharpness and condition, tension, tracking, guide setup, and fence alignment to drift. Confirm the blade suits the cut and reduce feed pressure. |
| Burning or slow feed | Check for a dull blade, sawdust-packed gullets, excessive feed pressure, or a setup problem. Do not force the board. A low-TPI blade has larger gullets to carry sawdust from a deep cut. |
| Slice thickness varies | Check that the stock faces are straight and square, keep the board consistently against the fence, and confirm the fence accounts for drift. If steering with an adjustable guide, avoid changing the board angle mid-cut. |
| Blade appears strained | Stop and consult the saw manual. Tall or dense stock, a dull blade, poor setup, and excessive feed pressure can place strain on the blade and machine. |
For tension-related setup questions, consult the saw manual and WOOD Magazine’s blade tension guide; avoid substituting a setting from a different saw.
Rank #4
- High silicon, low carbide steel
- Runs under low tension which requires less horsepower
- Runs cooler and lasts longer
- Ideal for resawing thick stock
- Thin kerf
Choose a fence or guide for your workflow
The main choice is how much you value repeatability versus steering control. A fixed fence is useful for repeated slices once its angle is aligned to the blade’s drift. An adjustable or curved guide lets you steer a board along a marked line, which can help when following a particular cut path, but it demands attention throughout the pass. Compare guides by whether they fit your saw, how easily they adjust, and how consistently you can maintain the desired thickness. A shop-made guide can serve if it is stable and suited to the saw and stock.
When evaluating blade and guide options, prioritize compatibility with the saw, the cut’s height and length, blade tooth style and sharpness, and the level of steering the cut requires. Any accessory is secondary to correct setup and safe stock control.
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Quick Recap
Best Value
- High silicon, low carbide steel
- Ideal for resawing thick stock
- Runs cooler and lasts longer
- Runs under low tension which requires less horsepower
- Thin kerf
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