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To keep earwigs away, remove the cool, damp hiding places they use, trap them near plants they are damaging, and seal gaps if they are getting indoors. Earwigs can chew seedlings and soft fruit, but they also eat aphids and other insects, so first check that they are responsible for the damage.
Why earwigs gather around homes and gardens
Earwigs feed mostly at night and spend the day in cool, dark, moist shelter. Common hiding places include mulch, weeds, leaf litter, boards, and objects left on the ground. They may damage seedlings, flowers, soft fruit, and corn silks, but they also feed on aphids and insect eggs. Look for earwigs at night or in likely daytime hiding places before treating a plant as an infestation. UC IPM and University of Maine Cooperative Extension describe both their feeding and shelter habits.
Remove shelter and excess dampness
Start close to the affected plants or building rather than trying to clear every garden refuge. Thin weeds, clear leaf litter and rubbish, and move unused boards or other objects that provide sheltered hiding places. Avoid keeping soil and mulch unnecessarily damp, especially beside foundations. Keep gutters and downspouts clear, direct runoff away from the building, and repair leaks or damp crawl-space conditions. Texas A&M AgriLife also advises reducing excessive mulch near the foundation in its earwig management guidance.
Trap earwigs beside affected plants
Traps are most useful when placed near plants earwigs are damaging and checked regularly. They reduce local numbers; a single night of trapping is unlikely to resolve a continuing problem.
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Sink a low can into the soil so its rim is close to ground level, then add about half an inch of vegetable oil. Fish oil or bacon grease can be added if desired. Check and empty the trap regularly.
Shelter traps
Place rolled newspaper, corrugated cardboard, bamboo tubes, or short sections of hose near affected plants before dark. In the morning, empty captured earwigs into soapy water. Reset the traps daily until catches stop or fall to a tolerable level. The University of Nevada Extension also describes shelter traps and targeted barriers.
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Protect fruit trees with targeted measures
If earwigs are climbing a fruit tree to feed on soft fruit, keep weeds and suckers away from the trunk, remove loose bark where appropriate, and pick ripe fruit promptly. A sticky barrier on the trunk may help stop climbing earwigs, but it is a tree-specific measure, not a way to control earwigs throughout the yard. Follow the barrier product’s instructions. Because earwigs also eat aphids, consider whether excluding them from the tree is worthwhile before blocking their access.
Keep earwigs out of the house
For an occasional indoor earwig
Vacuum or sweep it up. Indoor pesticide use will not address the outdoor conditions or openings that let more earwigs enter.
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Inspect low areas and seal likely gaps around doors, windows, pipes, and other openings. At the same time, clear leaf litter, ivy, and excessive mulch from beside the building, and address drainage or dampness. UC IPM does not recommend indoor pesticide treatments to prevent earwig invasion because they do little to stop entry.
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Use pesticides only when needed
University guidance generally puts habitat management and trapping ahead of insecticides. UC IPM says insecticides should rarely be needed when those measures are used. It discusses spinosad bait as an option but notes that baits may be less effective when other food is available; it also advises following the label and applying at night to reduce risks to bees. Maine Extension lists spinosad or iron phosphate among lower-toxicity outdoor options. Texas A&M lists other active ingredients and warns that pesticide regulations can change.
These recommendations are not interchangeable across locations, products, or uses. Check the current product label and local rules before applying anything, and follow pollinator precautions. A product mentioned in one extension publication is not automatically approved or suitable for every site.
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How to choose a practical approach
| Problem | Best starting point | What it addresses |
|---|---|---|
| Earwigs among garden plants | Remove nearby shelter and use regularly checked traps | Local hiding places and earwigs around affected plants |
| Earwigs on a fruit tree | Clear weeds and suckers, harvest ripe fruit, and consider a trunk barrier | Climbing earwigs reaching that tree |
| Earwigs indoors | Sweep or vacuum them, seal gaps, and reduce outdoor shelter near the building | Current visitors and likely routes of entry |
| Persistent damage after habitat work and trapping | Consider a labeled outdoor pesticide only if appropriate locally | Residual outdoor activity, subject to product directions and local rules |
The University of Maine notes that complete elimination may be unlikely, while populations can be kept at acceptable levels. That makes a continuing routine—rather than a one-time treatment—the sensible goal.
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