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Bettesworth Construction
crown molding

How to Make Molding Profiles: Router, Table Saw, and Template Methods

Plan the cross-section first, then choose router bits, a table-saw cove setup, or a bearing-guided template method to make the profile safely.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 4 min read
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To make a molding profile, draw its cross-section full size, divide it into simpler shapes, then choose cutters and a machine that can produce those shapes safely. Many ornate profiles are easier to make as separate pieces and assemble than to cut in one pass. For curved work or repeat copies, use a securely attached template with a compatible bearing-guided cutter.

Plan the profile before cutting

Draw the molding’s cross-section at full size. Mark its overall width and height, then identify the individual forms: beads, coves, steps, rounds, and reverse curves. This drawing is your reference for choosing cutters, setting up the cuts, and checking the finished pieces.

Compare the shapes with the router bits you own. A cutter’s result can change with its height, fence position, or bearing arrangement, so test possible combinations on scrap. Keep the samples and compare them with the drawing before committing to the project stock.

For a complicated molding, treat the design as a set of components. Woodcraft’s example shows how separately milled profiles can be stacked, with a cove bridging upper and lower pieces. This approach can produce a complex appearance without requiring one large custom cutter. See Woodcraft’s guide to built-up moldings.

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Choose a method for the shape and stock

Method Useful when Trade-off
Common router bits on a router table Making a simple edge or separate components for a built-up profile. May require several setup changes and accurate matching of the pieces.
Table-saw cove cut plus router bits Making a broad crown profile with a central cove. Requires a suitable cutter, insert, supported stock, and carefully configured fences.
Bearing-guided cutter and template Repeating a profile or making curved molding. The template must be secure and guide the bearing correctly.
Shaper or custom molding knives Specialized profiles or production work. Tooling must suit the machine and operation; selection and safe use require care. The UK Health and Safety Executive offers guidance for tooling on hand-fed woodworking machines in WIS37(rev1), published in 2014.

Make simple profiles and built-up moldings on a router table

For a straight edge profile or the separate parts of a larger molding, fit an appropriate bit and set up the fence to support the stock. Where the design uses several cuts, establish their order on the full-size drawing and test the sequence on scrap. Steve Latta’s Fine Woodworking guidance on molding setup discusses wide blanks, cut order, and sacrificial zero-clearance fences that support stock close to the cutter and help reduce tearout.

When the method allows, profile stock while it is still wide, then rip the components to their final width and angle. Wider stock is easier to support through the profiling cuts; cutting the final angles later also gives you room to make the profiles and assemble them against the drawing. Woodcraft describes this approach in its built-up molding example.

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Cut a central cove for crown molding

A crown with a broad central cove can be made with a suitable table-saw cove cutter and router-bit profiles on either side. CMT’s instructions for its crown molding set call for making the cove while the stock has the greatest mass, then routing the flanking profiles.

  1. Draw the complete cross-section. Use the drawing to determine the cove and the profiles beside it.
  2. Configure the saw for the specific cutter. Follow the cutter and machine instructions for the throat plate and fence arrangement. CMT specifies dual fences to guide and support stock for its described setup.
  3. Check clearance before starting. With the saw off, check cutter clearance by hand as directed in the manual.
  4. Make the cove in light cuts. Use the guard, push blocks, and featherboards recommended for the operation.
  5. Route the flanking profiles. Shape the adjacent pieces after the cove, following the router-bit and router-table instructions.

These are setup-specific instructions, not a universal table-saw procedure. Consult the manual for the exact cutter and machine before using this method. The details are in CMT’s crown molding set instructions.

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Reproduce a profile or make curved molding with a template

For repeat work, make a template that reproduces the intended outline and attach it securely to the workpiece. Use a bearing-guided cutter compatible with the template, stock, and machine. Before cutting, check that the template cannot shift and that the bearing can follow its edge throughout the cut.

For the lead-on-pin method described for Trend WRT and CRT router tables, position the template against the pin while the workpiece remains away from the cutter. Then bring the template into contact with the cutter bearing and maintain that contact as you feed the work. CMT also describes attaching a plywood template so the bearing on an inverted bit follows it. Follow the instructions for your own table and cutter; the procedures are not interchangeable by assumption. Read Trend’s lead-on pin guide and the CMT manual.

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Keep the cuts supported and controlled

  • Use the guard and workholding appropriate to the particular machine and operation.
  • Support the workpiece securely through the cut; where the method permits, keep stock wide until after profiling.
  • Use light passes when the cutter manufacturer directs them, rather than trying to remove the full profile at once.
  • Use a sacrificial fence where appropriate to support the stock close to a router-table cutter and help limit tearout.
  • Do not transfer a setup from a different cutter or machine without checking the relevant manual.

For shapers and other hand-fed woodworking machines, consult the UK Health and Safety Executive’s tooling selection guidance as well as the machine and cutter instructions.

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