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compost

How to Make Homemade Garden Fertilizer: A Practical Compost Guide

Make homemade garden compost from suitable kitchen scraps and yard waste. Learn the right balance, how to troubleshoot a pile and when soil testing is needed.

By Bettesworth Construction Team 4 min read
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The most dependable homemade garden fertilizer is finished compost: a soil amendment made from kitchen scraps and yard waste that adds organic matter, but does not deliver a predictable dose of nutrients. To supply a specific nutrient, test your soil first and follow the test’s recommendations. Compost recipes, nutrient levels and useful application rates vary with the ingredients, plants and soil.

What homemade compost can—and cannot—do

Compost improves soil by adding organic matter and contributes some nutrients as it breaks down. But the finished mix is not a standardized, complete fertilizer. Iowa State University Extension gives homemade compost an approximate N-P-K range of 0.5-0.5-0.5 to 4-4-4, a wide span that reflects how much the ingredients can vary. Those figures are a range, not a guaranteed analysis for your batch. Iowa State’s guide to organic fertilizers explains the differences among common materials.

Use compost to build organic matter; do not assume it will correct a particular nutrient deficiency. A soil test can help identify whether a targeted amendment is needed. Applying more nutrients than plants use can allow them to leach into groundwater or run off into surface water, as Washington State University Extension’s soil and fertilizer guide explains.

How to make garden compost

A backyard compost pile needs suitable green and brown materials, moisture and air. Greens supply nitrogen-rich material, while browns supply carbon-rich material and help keep the pile from becoming too wet. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends two to three parts browns to one part greens as a measure to help prevent rodents.

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1. Choose what goes in

For a backyard pile, the EPA lists these compostable materials:

  • Greens: fruit and vegetable scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds and paper filters, and paper tea bags without staples.
  • Browns: dry leaves, plant stalks and twigs, non-glossy shredded paper, plain cardboard, and untreated wood chips.

Keep out meat, fish, bones, dairy, fats and grease; herbicide-treated plants or grass; aggressive weeds with seeds; diseased or pest-infested plants; treated wood; pet waste and cat litter; dryer lint; glossy paper; and produce stickers. The EPA advises against these items in a home compost pile. Its home composting guide has the full list and care instructions.

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2. Layer and balance greens and browns

Combine the materials, aiming for two to three parts browns for each part greens. Cover and bury food scraps in the pile rather than leaving them exposed. The right balance can shift with your inputs: add browns if the pile is wet or smells bad, and add greens if it is not heating.

3. Keep the pile moist and aerated

Moisture and airflow support decomposition. Turn the pile to introduce air. If it smells bad, it may be too wet or short on air; add dry browns and turn it. If it is not heating, mix in greens and turn it. A compost bin or aerator is optional—the essential job is to manage moisture and air.

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4. Let it finish and cure

The EPA says a well-maintained pile may be ready in about three to five months; an untended pile can take a year. After the pile stops heating following mixing and visible food scraps are gone, cure it for at least four weeks. Finished compost should be dark, loose, crumbly and smell like fresh soil. If you still see persistent pieces, screen them out; the EPA suggests a homemade screener made from 1/4-inch hardware cloth.

Do coffee grounds and eggshells fertilize plants?

Coffee grounds and eggshells can go into compost, but adding them directly to plants is not a reliable way to deliver a quick, measured dose of nutrients. Their contribution depends on the material and how it breaks down; use soil-test recommendations when a crop needs a specific nutrient.

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Eggshells break down slowly. Illinois Extension says they may take one to five years to decompose. Boiling shells in water is not a useful shortcut: the University of Florida IFAS Extension says eggshell water provides little benefit. Illinois Extension’s 2025 discussion of garden remedies and UF/IFAS’s guidance on home garden remedies cover these limitations.

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When to use a targeted fertilizer or manure

If a soil test identifies a nutrient need, select an amendment for that need and apply it according to the test results and product or extension directions. Testing frequency and laboratory options depend on location; Washington State University Extension says testing every two to four years is often sufficient, but local conditions and recommendations should guide your schedule.

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Use extra care with manure in a vegetable garden. Fresh or inadequately composted manure can carry human pathogens. University of New Hampshire Extension advises composting and aging manure for at least six months before incorporating it into soil. That advice is not a guarantee that a casual backyard pile reaches a validated pathogen-kill process. Follow UNH Extension’s organic fertilizer guidance and its guidelines for manure and manure-based composts.

Why Epsom salt is not a general-purpose fertilizer

Epsom salt supplies magnesium and sulfur, but that does not make it a universal plant tonic. The University of Florida IFAS Extension cautions that it is not useful when magnesium is not deficient. Use a soil test to determine whether a nutrient amendment is appropriate instead of applying Epsom salt routinely.

Quick Recap

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Burpee Organic All Purpose Granular Plant Food is formulated for long-lasting results; Contains nutrients, plants will produce superior results throughout the season
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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