If a faucet is producing only a trickle, open it and investigate for a frozen pipe. If no water flows, keep the faucet open and thaw the line gently. If water is leaking, skip thawing: shut off the home’s main water valve immediately. The most vulnerable plumbing is usually in garages, attics, crawl spaces, basements, under-sink cabinets, along exterior walls, and wherever pipes pass through drafty walls or floors.
Freezing prevention comes down to three things: keep plumbing warm, block cold air, and keep water moving when appropriate. The steps below cover routine winter preparation, safe thawing, and the response to a burst pipe.
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First, identify which situation you have
| What you notice | What to do now |
|---|---|
| A faucet has weak flow or only a trickle | Assume a section of pipe may be freezing. Open the faucet, inspect likely cold areas, and begin gentle thawing if the pipe is accessible and undamaged. |
| No water comes from one faucet | Leave the faucet open and look for a frozen section upstream, especially near an exterior wall or where the water line enters the home. Check other faucets because more than one pipe may be affected. |
| Water is escaping from a pipe, ceiling, wall, cabinet, or fitting | Turn off the main water supply immediately. Do not continue thawing. Move belongings away from the water if safe, then call a plumber. |
Ice itself may block the line, but freezing and expansion can create damaging pressure elsewhere in the plumbing. A pipe can begin leaking as the ice melts, so monitor it closely while thawing and be ready to close the main valve.
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Before winter weather arrives, locate the home’s main shutoff valve, clear access to it, and make sure everyone in the household knows how to operate it. This is the fastest way to limit damage if a line breaks. The Insurance Information Institute’s severe-cold-weather guidance also recommends knowing where the shutoff is before an emergency.
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Where pipes are most likely to freeze
Start your inspection in places where plumbing is exposed to outdoor temperatures or isolated from household heat:
- Unheated garages, especially where water lines run through garage walls or ceilings
- Attics, crawl spaces, and unfinished basements
- Pipe runs along exterior walls
- Under-sink cabinets on outside walls
- Pipe penetrations through rim joists, floors, foundations, and exterior walls
- Areas with missing insulation or noticeable drafts
- Outdoor faucets, hose bibs, and connected garden hoses
- The point where the water service enters the building
There is no single outdoor temperature at which every pipe freezes. Risk depends on the duration of the cold, wind exposure, pipe material and size, insulation, building construction, and whether indoor heat is reaching the pipe.
How to prevent frozen pipes
1. Keep indoor heat steady
Do not turn the thermostat down overnight during a freeze. If you leave the house, keep the heat on. The American Red Cross recommends no lower than 55°F when a home is unattended. The Insurance Information Institute notes that severe cold may require a higher setting—around 65°F—to help keep wall cavities warm enough. These are risk-management recommendations, not a universal legal requirement; the right setting depends on the home and weather.
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2. Insulate exposed water lines
Insulate vulnerable water pipes in unheated spaces and along exterior walls. Measure the pipe’s outside diameter before buying insulation so the sleeve fits snugly. U.S. Department of Energy guidance identifies tubular sleeves, spiral wrap, and fiberglass insulation as options for reducing pipe heat loss.
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Foam pipe insulation is a practical option for many accessible residential water lines. Choose a size that matches the pipe, install it continuously over the exposed section, and close gaps at joints and between pieces. Insulation slows heat loss; it does not create heat or guarantee protection in every climate.
Follow the insulation manufacturer’s installation instructions, particularly around fittings, valves, heat sources, and pipe materials. If insulation is wet, damaged, or compressed, replace or repair it rather than assuming it still provides its intended protection.
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3. Seal drafts around pipe penetrations
Cold air can reach a pipe through gaps where it passes through a wall, floor, rim joist, or other part of the building envelope. Seal suitable openings with caulk or compatible foam, taking care not to block required vents or create an unsafe condition around combustion equipment.
The DOE recommends sealing pipe penetrations and closing gaps between insulation sections. Air sealing and pipe insulation work together: insulation slows heat loss, while sealing stops cold air from washing over the pipe.
4. Open cabinet doors during severe cold
Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors when plumbing is on or near an exterior wall. This lets warmer room air circulate around the supply lines. Keep medicines, cleaning products, and other hazardous items out of children’s reach while the doors are open. This step is useful for under-sink plumbing, but it cannot compensate for a severely exposed or poorly insulated pipe.
5. Let exposed-pipe faucets trickle when appropriate
During severe cold, allowing a vulnerable faucet to drip can keep water moving and may reduce the chance of freezing. Use this as an additional measure—not as a replacement for insulation, air sealing, and adequate heat. Water-use restrictions, plumbing-system design, and local conditions may affect whether dripping is appropriate.
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If you use this approach, choose faucets supplied by the exposed or vulnerable line rather than assuming any faucet will protect every pipe in the house. A dripping tap also does not protect a pipe that has already frozen or a section isolated between the faucet and the blockage.
6. Protect outdoor plumbing
Disconnect garden hoses before freezing weather. Where the plumbing system permits, shut off and drain exterior faucets. Leaving a hose attached can trap water and increase the risk of freezing in the faucet or connected pipe. The Insurance Information Institute’s water-damage guidance recommends disconnecting hoses and draining exterior faucets where possible.
If your home has frost-free hose bibs, they still require correct installation and an unobstructed hose connection to work as intended. Do not assume the label eliminates every winterization requirement.
7. Consider heat tracing only for difficult locations
Electric pipe-heating cable or heat tape can be useful for exposed plumbing that is difficult to protect with insulation alone, but it must be listed and approved for the exact pipe and installation. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for pipe material, placement, temperature control, electrical requirements, and whether the cable may be covered with insulation.
A listed pipe heat cable is not the same as improvised heating wire. Never wrap a cable in a way the instructions prohibit, overlap sections unless specifically allowed, or use damaged equipment. The DOE includes heat tracing among freeze-protection methods but also emphasizes appropriate electrical and fire precautions.
8. Prepare before leaving for an extended period
Keep the heat on, maintain a steady thermostat setting, and ask someone to inspect the home during prolonged cold. For a vacant property, a plumber can advise whether the water system should be shut off and drained.
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Shutting off and draining a system can reduce the amount of water available to escape if a pipe breaks, but it is not a universal do-it-yourself step. It may affect residential fire-sprinkler systems and other equipment. Confirm the consequences with a qualified professional and your insurer before proceeding. State Farm’s frozen-pipe guidance specifically warns that draining a home’s water system may affect fire sprinklers.
How to thaw a frozen pipe safely
Thawing is appropriate only when you can identify the affected section, the pipe is accessible, and there is no sign of damage or leakage. If any of those conditions is missing, call a licensed plumber.
- Open the affected faucet. This gives melting ice and expanding water somewhere to go and helps you recognize when flow returns.
- Find the likely frozen section. Work backward from the faucet toward the supply line, checking exterior walls, cabinets, garages, crawl spaces, and entry points.
- Apply gentle, even heat. Start near the faucet and work toward the frozen area. Acceptable options can include an electric hair dryer, an electric heating pad or pipe-warming device used as directed, towels soaked in hot water, or a portable heater positioned safely away from combustibles.
- Watch the pipe and surrounding areas continuously. Look and listen for water escaping as the ice melts. Be ready to close the main shutoff immediately.
- Continue until full pressure returns. Once the line is flowing normally, inspect the entire accessible pipe and nearby walls, ceilings, cabinets, and floors for signs of leakage.
- Insulate and seal the area afterward. Thawing solves the immediate blockage; it does not correct the condition that allowed the pipe to freeze.
Do not use a torch, candle, lighter, kerosene heater, propane heater, charcoal stove, or any other open flame. Open flame can ignite nearby materials and damage the pipe. Do not use electrical heating equipment in or near standing water. Follow the device’s instructions and stop if conditions become unsafe.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What to do if a frozen pipe has burst
- Shut off the main water supply. If the leak is localized and you can safely isolate it with a known fixture shutoff, do so—but use the main valve when in doubt.
- Protect people first. Keep away from sagging ceilings, wet electrical equipment, contaminated water, and slippery flooring. Do not enter unsafe areas.
- Move belongings if safe. Relocate furniture, electronics, documents, and other valuables away from the water. Avoid using electrical devices in wet areas.
- Limit further damage. Mop or extract standing water when it is safe, place containers under active drips, and open affected areas only as needed for emergency access. Do not conceal wet materials.
- Call a licensed plumber. The pipe needs proper repair, and hidden damage may extend beyond the visible break.
- Contact your insurer promptly. Photograph and video the damage before cleanup where practical, keep damaged-item information, and save receipts for emergency expenses and temporary work.
- Dry the property quickly and thoroughly. Wet drywall, insulation, flooring, cabinetry, and other porous materials can support mold growth. Arrange an appropriate water-damage assessment rather than simply painting over stains or closing up wet walls.
Coverage varies. Standard homeowners policies generally cover many sudden freeze-related water losses, but flood and sewer-backup losses commonly require separate coverage or endorsements. Your policy wording, exclusions, deductible, maintenance history, and the facts of the loss control the claim. Contact your insurer instead of assuming that every frozen-pipe loss is covered.
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Optional early warning: leak detection
A water leak detector can provide earlier warning of moisture or unusual water flow, particularly in basements, utility rooms, under sinks, or vacant homes. It is a detection tool—not freeze prevention—and it does not replace a working main shutoff, winterization, periodic inspection, or professional repair. Choose a device whose sensing, alert, and connectivity features suit the location, and test it before relying on it.
A practical winter pipe checklist
- Locate and test the main water shutoff.
- Inspect garages, attics, crawl spaces, basements, exterior walls, cabinets, and pipe-entry points.
- Measure vulnerable pipes and install correctly sized insulation.
- Seal drafts and gaps around pipe penetrations without blocking required ventilation.
- Disconnect hoses and drain exterior faucets where the system permits.
- Keep indoor heat steady during cold weather; use at least 55°F as the Red Cross’s unattended-home benchmark, while recognizing that severe conditions may justify a higher setting.
- Open cabinet doors around vulnerable under-sink plumbing.
- Use a controlled faucet trickle only where appropriate during severe cold.
- Have a plan for inspection if the property will be empty.
- Keep a hair dryer or other manufacturer-approved gentle heating device available—but never use open flame.
- Know which situations require a licensed plumber before an emergency occurs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I leave all faucets dripping to prevent frozen pipes?
No. A trickle may help protect a faucet supplied by a vulnerable exposed line during severe cold, but it is not guaranteed and does not replace heat, insulation, and air sealing. Local water-use rules and the plumbing layout also matter.
What temperature should I leave my house at when I go away?
The American Red Cross recommends keeping the thermostat no lower than 55°F in an unattended home. The Insurance Information Institute notes that severe cold may require about 65°F to help keep wall cavities warm. The appropriate setting depends on the home, insulation, pipe locations, and weather.
Can I thaw a frozen pipe with a torch?
Never. Torches, candles, lighters, propane or kerosene heaters, and other open flames can start a fire and damage plumbing. Use only gentle, controlled heat such as a hair dryer or approved pipe-warming device, and never use electrical equipment near standing water.
Does pipe insulation guarantee that plumbing will not freeze?
No. Insulation slows heat loss but does not create heat. A pipe can still freeze if it is exposed to prolonged severe cold, drafts, inadequate indoor heat, or an especially vulnerable location.
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Many standard homeowners policies cover some sudden freeze-related water losses, but coverage depends on the policy, exclusions, deductible, maintenance facts, and circumstances. Flood and sewer-backup losses commonly require separate coverage or endorsements. Contact your insurer promptly.
The Bottom Line
Prevent freezing by keeping heat steady, insulating exposed pipes, sealing drafts, protecting outdoor faucets, and preparing the main shutoff before cold weather. If a line is frozen but intact, open the faucet and use gentle heat—never an open flame. If it leaks, shut off the main water supply first, protect the property, and call a licensed plumber.
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