To grow good onions, match the variety’s day-length needs to your region, plant in fertile, well-drained soil in early spring, and keep the shallow-rooted crop evenly moist. Harvest dry bulbs after the tops naturally fall, then cure them fully before storage. You can start with seed, transplants, or sets; the best choice depends on whether you want maximum variety choice, an easier start, green onions, or bulbs for keeping.
Choose an onion type that suits your location
Onions are cool-season vegetables, but bulb formation depends on day length. Long-day varieties are generally suited to northern latitudes, while short-day varieties are generally suited to southern latitudes. A mismatch can lead to small bulbs or poor bulbing. Check local extension recommendations and planting calendars before choosing a variety; the right planting date and type depend on your region.
For example, University of Minnesota Extension says storage onions grown in Minnesota are generally long-day varieties that need 14 or more hours of daylight to form bulbs. That threshold is Minnesota-specific, not a universal rule for every variety or region. Consider flavor, intended use, maturity timing, and storage suitability as well as day length. The extension guides do not establish one cultivar as best everywhere.
See University of Minnesota Extension’s onion-growing guide, University of Illinois Extension’s home gardening guide, and Utah State University Extension’s onion fact sheet for regional advice.
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- 8 ONION VARIETIES WITH DISTINCT ADVANTAGES AND UNIQUE FEATURES. A diverse range of unusual flavors, shapes, and colors, from sweet to pungent. Perhaps it’s time to welcome something new to your garden. Diversity is the key to an interesting and abundant harvest. Why not discover new aspects of a familiar vegetable when nature offers such rich choices? Amazing variations of this valuable everyday product will delight your taste buds. Many dishes are unimaginable without these vegetables.
- BARLETTA is a high-quality, extra early, vigorous salad-type variety. It’s grown both for its green stalks and bulbs. Long, hollow, dark-green stalks are rich in carotene, essential oils, and phytoncides. Bulbs are flat-round, pearl-white, with thin necks. Its semi-spicy, juicy, sweet, mild taste and tender texture provide gentle piquancy suitable for a wide range of dishes. An excellent flavor base for sauces, marinades, and pickling.
- RED BURGUNDY is a popular culinary variety. This early, hardy, attractive variety consistently produces high yields of large, firm bulbs under diverse conditions. It grows quickly, is drought-resistant, and produces until early frost. Noted for its oval shape and thick purple-red skin, it's valued for quality, long storage, and distinctive spicy flavor—rich, gently spicy, sweet-pungent without bitterness.
- Crisp with red rings inside, bright and appetizing in fresh vegetables, stews, pizzas, burgers, sauces, marinades, and garnishes, especially good grilled with meat. Also suitable for green stalk production, RED BURGUNDY yields juicy, robust greens. The nutritional value of red onions lies in their complex composition, including numerous natural antioxidants, a broad spectrum of minerals, vitamins, essential oils, and beneficial amino acids.
- ECLIPSE L303 is an heirloom, open-pollinated variety known for excellent adaptability. Bulbs are thick, medium-sized, and flat-round with white skins. Dense, uniform, and crunchy texture. Both bulb and bunching onions have a mild, fresh flavor ideal for salads, sandwiches, burgers, soups, stews, and main dishes. Rich in beneficial compounds and high in vitamin C.
Choose seeds, transplants, or sets
| Starting method | Best fit | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Seeds | Gardeners who want a broad choice of varieties and can start early. | Need early sowing and thinning. Starting indoors can extend the season, but timing varies by regional guidance. |
| Transplants | Gardeners who want established young plants to set out. | Offer a more advanced start than direct-sown seed; availability and suitable varieties depend on location. |
| Sets | A convenient option, especially for green onions. | Sets are small bulbs and easy to handle, but ordinary garden centers may offer limited variety labeling. Large sets are more prone to bolting and are better suited to green onions than dry bulbs. |
University of Minnesota Extension suggests starting seeds indoors 10–12 weeks before outdoor planting; Utah State University Extension says transplants need about eight weeks of growth. These are different regional recommendations, not a single schedule to apply everywhere. Use your local calendar and the variety’s requirements. For broad planning, Utah State University Extension estimates 100–120 days for bulb onions to mature, depending on variety and growing conditions. It also offers a planning guideline of one seed, set, or transplant per onion and 10–20 feet of row per person; those figures are not yield guarantees.
Prepare a sunny, well-drained bed
Choose a full-sun site with fertile, well-drained soil and organic matter. Recommendations for soil pH vary by regional guide: University of Minnesota Extension gives 6.0–7.0, while Utah State University Extension gives 6.0–7.8. A soil test is a practical way to determine whether amendments or fertilizer are needed; follow local recommendations rather than applying a fixed dose.
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Work compost or well-rotted organic matter into the bed. University of Minnesota Extension cautions against fresh manure. Avoid excess nitrogen: it can delay maturity and contribute to thick necks, soft bulbs, and poorer storage quality.
Plant and space onions
Plant in early spring once the soil is workable, using the timing recommended for your region and variety. If sowing seed directly, both University of Minnesota Extension and Utah State University Extension recommend planting it 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to 3–4 inches apart for bulb onions. The thinnings can be used as green onions.
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For transplants, University of Minnesota Extension recommends spacing plants 3–4 inches apart in rows 12–16 inches apart. Utah State University Extension recommends rows 8–16 inches apart. These are regional examples; adjust for your desired bulb size, planting method, and whether you plan to harvest some plants young.
Water, weed, and protect the crop
Onions have shallow roots, so they need consistent moisture. Utah State University Extension notes that drought stress reduces yield and bulb size. University of Minnesota Extension advises soaking the soil thoroughly at least weekly when rainfall is below one inch, with more frequent watering in sandy soil. Use local conditions to guide watering; drip irrigation is an option, not a requirement.
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Keep weeds under control, especially while plants are small, and cultivate shallowly to avoid damaging roots and bulbs. Organic mulch can help conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Do not hill dry-bulb onions: University of Illinois Extension warns that hilling may contribute to neck rot after harvest.
As bulbs mature and tops begin to fall, reduce or stop watering. Excess moisture at that stage can delay curing and create storage problems. Pests and diseases vary by region. University of Minnesota Extension identifies yellowing and wilting as signs of possible onion maggot damage; consult local extension guidance to diagnose problems before choosing a treatment.
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Harvest bulbs at natural maturity
For dry bulbs, wait until tops naturally fall over and begin to dry. Extension recommendations differ slightly on how many tops should have fallen: University of Minnesota Extension says to harvest when about half are falling and dry, while University of Illinois Extension says to wait until most have fallen. Do not break or bend tops early to force maturity.
Lift bulbs carefully with a spading fork to avoid bruising. Handle them gently, since damaged bulbs are less suitable for storage. Green onions can be harvested young rather than left to form mature dry bulbs.
Cure bulbs before storage
Curing dries the outer scales and neck, helping prepare bulbs for storage. Lay harvested bulbs in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place and protect them from rain and excessive sun. They are ready when the outer scales are papery and the neck is tight and dry.
Published curing schedules differ. University of Minnesota Extension recommends 75–90°F for two to four weeks; University of Illinois Extension calls for good air circulation for two to three weeks; Utah State University Extension gives a garden-drying period of one to two weeks. Rather than treating one schedule as universal, use dry, ventilated conditions and judge completion by the bulbs’ outer scales and neck, following local guidance.
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Keep only sound, properly cured bulbs in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. Storage temperature recommendations differ: Utah State University Extension gives 32–40°F, while University of Illinois Extension gives 50–60°F. Cultivar and storage conditions affect how well onions keep, so follow regional advice for your variety and check stored bulbs regularly. Use bulbs that begin to soften or sprout first.
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