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Choose a water lily that fits your pond
Water lilies (Nymphaea) range from compact cultivars for small ponds and water containers to vigorous plants that can spread across a large area. Check the cultivar label for mature spread and recommended water depth before buying; general size bands are a guide, not a substitute for plant-specific instructions. Aim to keep water-lily leaves from covering more than half the pond surface.
| General size class | Approximate spread | Recommended water depth |
|---|---|---|
| Dwarf or small | 30–60 cm (1–2 ft) | 30–45 cm (12–18 in) |
| Medium | 60–120 cm (2–4 ft) | 45–75 cm (18–30 in) |
| Large | Up to 2.4 m (8 ft) | 75–120 cm (30 in–4 ft) |
These broad ranges come from the Royal Horticultural Society’s growing guide. Miniature cultivars may suit shallower water, so use the named plant’s instructions when they differ from the ranges above. The figures describe the eventual water depth for the plant, not how much water should cover its crown immediately after planting.
Pick a sunny, sheltered position
Choose a position with full sun. Most water lilies do best with around 6–8 hours of direct sunlight, though some cultivars tolerate partial shade; deep shade is unsuitable. Keep the planting area away from fountains, pumps, waterfalls and cascades. Turbulence can disturb the plant and its basket: the RHS advises that water lilies prefer calm, still water.
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- WHAT YOU RECEIVE: 3 water lily rhizomes (tubers) for planting. These are not fully grown or flowering water lilies. Planting and time under suitable growing conditions are required.
- You get 3 rhizomes (tubers) in Pink, Yellow, and Orange. Rhizomes are NOT grown plants with lily pads and flowers. They need to be planted in pots for them to grow into full grown lilies.
- Guaranteed to arrive alive and healthy. Helps create a natural bio-filter - Aquatic plants will produce oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide to enhance water quality in your pond or patio garden
- Your perennial hardy water lily is meant to last for years to come. After growing has stopped in the fall, simply cut back foliage and keep your water lily at the bottom of your water garden during the winter months
- Sourced from IWGS (The International Waterlily & Water Gardening Society) award winning water lily growers. The lilies are grown using the latest technology and facility with a digital controlled nursery to ensure that our plants are diseases pest snail and algae free
Plant the water lily in a basket
A mesh aquatic basket contains the roots and can be lifted for maintenance. Use peat-free aquatic compost or heavy clay-based loam rather than light, floating potting mix. The RHS suggests baskets of about 5–10 L for most water lilies and about 2 L for dwarf plants. Washed pea shingle over the surface helps keep the planting medium in place.
- Fill a mesh aquatic basket with aquatic compost or heavy clay-based loam. If needed, line the basket to limit soil escaping while allowing water through.
- Trim excessively long roots and remove old or damaged leaves.
- Set the crown at the surface of the planting medium. Firm the medium around it and cover the surface with washed pea shingle.
- Lower the basket so the crown is initially under about 15–25 cm (6–10 in) of water. Raise it on bricks or a pond shelf if necessary to reach this level.
- As new leaves grow, lower the basket gradually toward the cultivar’s recommended final depth. Tropical lilies can be placed at their permanent depth when planted, according to the RHS guide.
For tropical lilies, the Missouri Botanical Garden’s home-gardener guidance says to wait until both air and water are at least 70°F (about 21°C) before putting them outdoors. That temperature threshold is a practical condition, not a universal calendar date.
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- ✅ DROP -N- GROW - Pre-Grown and Pre-Rooted, the only work left for you to do is to Drop it in your Pond or Patio Container and Watch it Grow! So much easier than growing from seed or seeds!
- ✅ PROMOTES THE PERFECT POND ENVIRONMENT - Aquatic plants like water lilies & lotus will produce oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide to enhance water quality in your pond or patio garden.
- ✅ ECOSYSTEM ENHANCER - Adding live plants is not only beneficial for the natural ecosystem but also provides shelter and security for your fish. Plus you get lots of pretty flower / flowers!
- ✅ HARDY - This perennial water lily is meant to last for years to come. After growing has stopped in the autumn, simply cut back the foliage and keep your water lily at the bottom of your water garden during the winter months
- ✅ GORGEOUS BLOOMS, LUSH FOLIAGE - Use Chalily Brand aquatic plant fertilizer; which gives your plants the nutrients needed to produce bigger, blooms and healthier foliage all season long.
Care for leaves, flowers and feeding
Remove fading growth
Regularly remove yellowing leaves and spent flowers when they are safely reachable. Clear fading foliage in autumn as well. Plant material left to decay in the pond can add nutrients, encourage algae and reduce oxygen available to pond life. Let pond creatures return to the water before composting removed debris.
Feed only when it is needed
Water lilies are vigorous plants, and the RHS recommends slow-release aquatic feed in spring. If flowering was poor the previous year or leaves yellow prematurely, nutrient shortage is one possibility—but first check that the plant gets enough light, is at a suitable depth and is not congested. If feeding is warranted, use a fertilizer labeled for aquatic plants and follow its manufacturer’s directions. The RHS advises against feeding when it is not needed.
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- ✅ DROP -N- GROW - Pre-Grown and Pre-Rooted, the only work left for you to do is to Drop it in your Pond or Patio Container and Watch it Grow! So much easier than growing from seed or seeds!
- ✅ PROMOTES THE PERFECT POND ENVIRONMENT - Aquatic plants will produce oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide to enhance water quality in your pond or patio garden.
- ✅ ECOSYSTEM ENHANCER - Adding live plants like water lilies & lotus is not only beneficial for the natural ecosystem but also provides shelter and security for your fish. Plus you get lots of pretty flower / flowers!
- ✅ HARDY - This perennial water lily is meant to last for years to come. After growing has stopped in the autumn, simply cut back the foliage and keep your water lily at the bottom of your water garden during the winter months.
- ✅100% QUALITY GUARANTEED - Guaranteed to arrive alive and healthy. Our plants are disease, pest, snail and algae free.
Divide a crowded water lily
Leaves that stand above the surface instead of floating can indicate that the lily is too shallow or has become congested. Most water lilies benefit from division about every four to five years. The RHS recommends dividing in late spring or early summer.
- Lift the basket and divide the plant, keeping sections with at least one young shoot and plenty of fibrous roots.
- Pot the sections into aquatic baskets with suitable planting medium and pea shingle.
- Return the divisions to shallow water while they establish, then increase the depth as they grow.
Plan winter care by lily type
| Type | Winter approach | Key condition |
|---|---|---|
| Hardy | Usually leave outdoors in the pond without special winter protection. | The rootstock must not freeze solid. The Missouri Botanical Garden notes that hardy rootstock tolerates cold water if the pond does not freeze solid. |
| Tropical | Keep warm and frost-free, or lift and store the tuber in damp sand. | The RHS specifies water at least 10°C (50°F) in winter; a warm greenhouse or conservatory is an option in colder climates. |
Tropical lilies need warmer conditions than hardy types: the RHS specifies water of at least 21°C (70°F) during the growing season and at least 10°C (50°F) in winter. For outdoor planting, Missouri Botanical Garden’s 2020 fact sheet uses 70°F (about 21°C) air and water as its threshold. Use local conditions and the plant label to decide when to move a tropical lily outside or bring it in.
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Troubleshoot common problems
- Leaves rise above the water: Check whether the basket is too shallow or the plant is congested; adjust its depth or divide it.
- Poor flowering or early yellowing: Check light, depth and congestion before considering an aquatic fertilizer.
- More algae or rotting foliage: Remove fading leaves and flowers before they sink and decay.
- A tropical lily declines in cold weather: Move it to warm, frost-free conditions or lift and store its tuber as appropriate for your climate.
- Insects or caterpillars appear: Inspect plants regularly. The Missouri Botanical Garden lists aphids and caterpillars among the main pests and recommends manual removal approaches.
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