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Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →A haunched tenon is a mortise-and-tenon joint with a short section retained at the edge of a reduced tenon, fitted into a matching recess in the mortise. It can help resist twisting and racking, add glue area, and let a rail meet a stile with a continuous panel groove. The right layout depends on the stock, joinery method, appearance, and loads; there is no universal proportion.
How a haunched tenon works
A conventional tenon is narrowed to fit the mortise, but a haunched tenon keeps a short projecting section—its haunch—along one edge. The mortise includes a corresponding recess so the rail can seat fully. In the Pearson carpentry and joinery handbook, the haunch retains the tenon at the top third of the timber to help prevent twisting. A related arrangement divides a wide tenon into two tenons separated by a central haunch.
When to use a haunched tenon
For frames exposed to twisting or racking
The wider overall cheek can provide more glue area, and the retained haunch can help the joint resist twisting and racking. These benefits are more consequential in large, heavy doors or other assemblies subject to those stresses than in smaller doors, according to Woodcraft’s discussion of haunched tenons.
For a rail-and-stile frame with a contained panel
A haunched rail can allow a continuous groove in the stile to receive a contained panel. Without that arrangement, the groove may need to stop at the joint. This can simplify the frame layout while keeping the panel groove out of the visible joint area.
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- Robust tool used for chopping out joints as well as cutting mortises
- Excellent cutting performance is reached by side tapering in height and length from tip to shoulder for sidewall clearance
- The blade is forged from Cr-Mn steel and heat treated up to 59 HRc
- The handle is made of dark stained and waxed beech wood with steel ferrule and hoop
Choosing a square or sloping haunch
The two forms make different trade-offs in appearance and ease of work. Ian J. Kirby’s Fine Woodworking article from September/October 1979 explains that a haunch can stop the joint below the top surface:
- Square haunch: Easier to make and may be stronger when the interrupted shoulder line is acceptable or concealed.
- Sloping haunch: Can create a cleaner, uninterrupted line at the top shoulder, but requires a layout suited to that appearance.
Choose the shape and dimensions for the required visual effect and mechanical demands. Compare how much edge support the joint needs, whether it must accommodate a panel groove, how it can be machined accurately, and what shoulder line will remain visible. The cited sources do not establish a standard ratio or dimension that fits every project.
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Making the joint accurately
Mortise-and-tenon joints can be made by hand, with power tools, or with a combination of both. A Canadian Woodworking overview emphasizes accurate measurement and a snug fit. A Fine Woodworking project guide from September/October 2004 describes a machine-based approach using a plunge router, tablesaw, edge guide, and shop-made jig. It also stresses flat, smooth, parallel long-grain mating surfaces and a snug fit. These are general mortise-and-tenon practices; adapt the layout and cutting sequence to the haunch and project.
Hand-cut workflow
Lay out the tenon, haunch, mortise, and matching recess from the same reference faces. Cut and fit the mortise and tenon carefully, checking that the shoulders seat and the haunch fits its recess without preventing the joint from closing. A mortise chisel is one possible hand tool; it is not required if another workflow suits the job.
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- 6 piece set comes on a wooden presentation box
- Blades are made from fine-grained, nicely tempered chrome-manganese steel and hardened to Rc 59
- Contains the following sizes: 6, 10, 12, 16, 20 and 26 mm
- Bevel ground at a 25 degree bevel.
- Handles are made from stained European Beech
Machine-assisted workflow
A router, tablesaw, edge guide, and shop-made jig are among the tools described in the Fine Woodworking project guide. The exact setup depends on the stock and joint design. Keep the mating surfaces flat and parallel, and test the fit before applying glue.
Quick Recap
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Rank #4
- Made by a highly respected edge tool manufacturer in the Czech Republic
- Blades are made from fine-grained, nicely tempered chrome-manganese steel and hardened to Rc 59
- Available in sizes from 4 mm to 12 mm
- Bevel ground at a 25 degree bevel
- Handles made from stained European Beech wood and have 2 steel ferruls
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