If your Fogatti tankless water heater is not lighting, flashing an E1 or E8 error, going cold mid-shower, or shutting down at low flow, start with the basics: identify the exact model, confirm power, confirm water flow, confirm fuel supply, and check for obvious vent or intake blockage. Many nuisance shutdowns are caused by low water flow, clogged fixture screens, air in a propane line, a dirty inlet filter, scale buildup, or a blocked exterior vent.
Do not treat every Fogatti error code as universal. Fogatti publishes separate manuals for RV tankless water heaters and residential InstaGas Classic, Comfort, and Premium models. The symptom may look the same, but the voltage, gas pressure, venting, reset process, and warranty risk can be very different.
Our rule on job sites is simple: homeowner checks stop at observation, cleaning accessible filters, restoring normal water flow, and resetting the unit according to the manual. If you smell gas, see scorching, hear delayed ignition, repeatedly lose flame, suspect exhaust leakage, or have carbon monoxide concerns, shut the unit off and call a licensed plumber, gas technician, or the gas utility emergency line.
First: Identify Which Fogatti Unit You Have
Before chasing an error code, look at the rating plate and manual. Fogatti sells RV propane tankless units and residential gas tankless models under the InstaGas line. Those are not interchangeable systems.
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An RV Fogatti water heater is usually a compact propane-fired appliance installed in the sidewall of a camper, fifth wheel, or motorhome. It typically depends on the RV’s 12-volt DC system, propane regulator, water pump or campground water pressure, and a sidewall exhaust assembly.
A residential Fogatti tankless water heater is part of a building system. It may be indoor or outdoor, natural gas or propane, condensing or non-condensing, and it may require a dedicated electrical receptacle, correct vent pipe, condensate drainage, combustion air, gas-line capacity, and local permits.
Write down these details before troubleshooting:
- Exact model number and serial number from the data plate.
- Fuel type: natural gas or propane.
- Installation type: RV, residential indoor, or residential outdoor.
- Error code shown on the display, if any.
- When the fault occurs: startup, shower use, rain, wind, cold weather, multiple fixtures, or only low-flow use.
- Last descaling date and whether the home uses hard water or well water.
This saves time. A technician can usually move faster when they know whether they are walking into a low-flow shower complaint, a combustion fault, a venting problem, or a scale-related service call.
Quick Safety Shutoff Checks
Tankless water heaters combine water, electricity, gas, flame, and exhaust. That is why the first troubleshooting step is deciding whether the situation is safe enough for homeowner checks.
Stop using the unit and call a licensed pro if you notice any of the following:
- Gas smell near the water heater, propane compartment, meter, regulator, or gas piping.
- Soot, scorching, melted plastic, or discoloration around the burner, cabinet, exhaust, or exterior wall cap.
- Repeated flame failure after one or two reset attempts.
- Any carbon monoxide alarm activation.
- Exhaust blowing toward an openable window, door, soffit, attic vent, or occupied area.
- Water leaking from the heat exchanger or inside the combustion cabinet.
- Loose, burned, wet, or corroded wiring.
If none of those are present, you can proceed with basic checks. For most homes, that means checking breakers, plugged-in power cords, water valves, fixture flow, inlet filters, visible vent blockage, and the water heater’s front-panel reset procedure. For RV units, it also means checking battery voltage, propane level, the LP shutoff valve, and whether the water pump can maintain enough flow.
Fogatti Troubleshooting Table: Symptoms, DIY Checks, and Pro Checks
The table below separates homeowner-safe steps from technician-level diagnostics. That boundary matters. A gas pressure reading, combustion test, pressure-switch test, or vent correction is not the same as cleaning a faucet aerator.
| Symptom or error | Homeowner-safe checks first | Pro-only diagnostics |
|---|---|---|
| No power or blank control panel | Check breaker, GFCI outlet, power cord, RV battery voltage, fuse, and visible loose plug connections. Confirm the switch is on. | Test control board voltage, transformer output, harness continuity, damaged display wiring, or failed internal components. |
| E1, no ignition, or flame loss | Confirm water flow, gas valve open, propane tank not empty, air purged after tank change, and exterior vent free of debris. | Measure gas pressure, verify regulator capacity, inspect igniter and flame sensor, check burner, confirm combustion, and test control board. |
| E8 or wind/vent pressure fault | Check for blocked exhaust, insect nests, wind-driven rain, snow, leaves, or a damaged vent cap. Note whether it happens only in storms. | Test pressure switch, fan operation, vent sizing, vent termination, high-altitude settings where manual-approved, and combustion safety. |
| Hot water starts then goes cold | Open the hot tap fully, remove low-flow shower restriction temporarily, clean faucet aerators, check inlet filter, and avoid mixing too much cold water. | Check minimum flow sensor, scale buildup, gas supply under load, crossover plumbing, burner modulation, and unit sizing. |
| Temperature swings | Set the heater closer to the desired outlet temperature, clean clogged shower heads, run one fixture at a time, and flush if overdue. | Diagnose crossover, undersized GPM, inlet water temperature drop, sensor faults, flow sensor faults, or heat exchanger scale. |
| Low-flow shutdown | Use a fixture that can provide roughly 1 GPM or more on many RV-style complaints, clean screens, check RV pump output, and open supply valves fully. | Test pump capacity, regulator pressure, flow sensor operation, water piping restrictions, and appliance calibration. |
| Noise, rumbling, or reduced output | Schedule descaling if overdue, check water pressure, and inspect for clogged inlet screen. | Flush/descale professionally, evaluate heat exchanger condition, inspect combustion, and verify gas and venting. |
| Leak from unit | Shut off water and power. Photograph the leak location. Do not run the heater. | Determine whether leak is from fitting, relief valve, drain, condensate line, or heat exchanger. Heat exchanger leaks often mean replacement. |
E1 Error or No Ignition: The Right Sequence
E1 is commonly associated with ignition failure or flame loss on many tankless units, but the exact meaning depends on the model. Use your Fogatti manual for the final definition. The practical sequence is still consistent: power, water flow, gas, air, ignition, flame sensing, controls.
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1. Confirm power first
A gas tankless heater still needs electrical power for the display, fan, ignition, sensors, and control board. On a residential unit, check the breaker and any nearby GFCI receptacle. On an RV unit, check the 12-volt battery condition, fuse, and switch. Low voltage can make a unit look like a gas problem when the real issue is control power.
2. Confirm enough water flow
Tankless heaters do not fire just because the faucet is cracked open. They need enough flow to prove demand. For RV Fogatti complaints, a commonly cited minimum threshold is about 1 gallon per minute. A water-saving shower head, partially closed valve, clogged screen, weak pump, or conservative shower technique can drop below that threshold and make the burner shut down.
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- Note: Please ensure the household circuit breaker panel has a total current capacity of at least 150 amps. Our Orbek tankless water heater electric 14kw requires a 240V/60AMP two-pole breaker, 1 set of 6 AWG wires and 1/2" NPT water connections.
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- Stable Temperature Control: The built-in chip adjusts heating power 20,000 times per second, keeping water temperature stable within 1°F for a comfortable shower experience
A simple field check is to open a hot faucet fully, preferably a tub spout or unrestricted fixture. If the heater works there but fails at the shower, suspect the shower head, mixing valve, aerator, or RV pump output before condemning the heater.
3. Confirm fuel supply
Make sure the gas valve is open and the propane tank has fuel. After changing an RV propane tank, air in the line can cause several failed ignition attempts. Follow the appliance manual for reset limits and purge procedure. Do not keep cycling a gas appliance indefinitely; repeated failed ignition can create a safety issue.
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4. Check the vent opening
A blocked exhaust or intake can cause failed ignition, flame loss, or unsafe combustion. Look for leaves, mud, ice, snow, insect nests, damaged louvers, or items stored against the vent. For sidewall RV heaters, also look for wind and rain exposure. Do not modify the vent cap or drill extra holes into the housing.
5. Bring in a pro for ignition parts and gas pressure
If power, flow, gas valve position, propane level, and obvious vent blockage all check out, the next suspects are igniter, flame sensor, burner, gas valve, regulator, pressure switch, fan, or control board. Those are technician-level checks because they affect combustion safety.
E8 Error, Vent Faults, and Wind Problems
E8 complaints on Fogatti RV units are often discussed as venting, wind pressure, or exhaust-related faults. Again, confirm the meaning in your exact manual. In the field, we would treat repeated E8 faults as a combustion-air and exhaust problem until proven otherwise.
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Homeowner-safe checks include:
- Inspect the exterior vent for plastic film, cardboard, leaves, wasp nests, lint, mud, ice, or damaged louvers.
- Confirm nothing is stored against the water heater door or vent area.
- Look for signs of rain intrusion around the exterior door and gasket.
- Check whether the fault clears in calmer weather after the unit is dry.
- Verify the appliance is installed level and the exterior door is properly latched.
Pro checks include fan speed, pressure switch operation, vent-path restrictions, burner condition, wiring, board output, and any altitude-related setting that the manual specifically allows. Do not bypass a pressure switch. It is there to prevent the burner from operating when airflow is not proven.
When the Water Gets Hot, Then Cold
Hot-cold cycling is one of the most common tankless complaints. The heater may be working exactly as designed, but the plumbing system is not giving it the flow, fuel, or conditions it needs.
Low flow at the fixture
If the shower is the only problem, remove and clean the shower head screen and check for mineral buildup. Many modern shower heads are 1.5 to 2.0 GPM, and some RV users reduce flow even further to conserve water. That can push a tankless unit below its activation flow. A tankless heater that works at the bathroom sink and kitchen sink but drops out at the shower is often reacting to the shower valve or flow restriction.
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- 【Compact Wall-mounted Design & Versatile Usage】Featuring a lightweight wall-mounted structure, this space-saving water heater takes up no floor space and adapts to various narrow spaces. It is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, apartments, RVs and outdoor camping. ETL certified with reliable quality, it delivers stable heating
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- 【Standard Installation Guide & Worry-free After-sales Service 】 To avoid E2 faults, only vertical installation is allowed while horizontal installation is forbidden. Seal pipe joints with Teflon tape, and match with ≥2.5mm² wires and 32A+ circuit breakers. We provide a 24-month warranty and 24/7 online customer service to solve your product and after-sales problems in time
Cold-water mixing at the shower
With a tankless heater, setting the unit too hot and then mixing in a lot of cold water can reduce hot-side flow enough to shut the burner down. Try setting the heater closer to the outlet temperature you actually want. For many showers, that means a setpoint around 110 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit rather than 130 or 140 degrees. Follow your manual and local anti-scald requirements.
Clogged inlet filter or scale
A partially clogged inlet filter can starve the unit. Scale inside the heat exchanger can also reduce heat transfer and create temperature swings. If the unit has not been flushed in a year, or if the home has hard water, descaling should be high on the list.
Crossover plumbing
A failed mixing valve, single-handle shower cartridge, recirculation connection, or improperly connected fixture can allow cold water to cross into the hot line. On service calls, crossover can mimic a bad heater. The clue is often lukewarm water at several fixtures even though the unit is firing.
Undersized capacity
Every tankless heater has limits. A unit that can support one shower in mild weather may struggle with two showers, a dishwasher, and winter inlet water at the same time. Groundwater entering at 40 degrees Fahrenheit requires much more heat rise than water entering at 65 degrees. If the heater is undersized for the home, cleaning filters will not fix the capacity problem.
Power and Control Panel Problems
A blank display or dead control panel is usually electrical before it is plumbing. For residential units, check that the heater is plugged in, the outlet has power, and the breaker has not tripped. Many installations use a nearby service receptacle. If it is GFCI-protected, press reset once. If it trips again, stop and call a pro; water, condensation, or wiring faults may be involved.
For RV units, check the battery, converter, fuse panel, and 12-volt supply. Low battery voltage can produce odd behavior: dim display, clicking without ignition, intermittent shutdown, or failure to respond to controls.
Do not open sealed electrical compartments unless the manual specifically directs it. If the heater has power at the outlet but no display, the likely suspects are internal wiring, a fuse, transformer, display board, main control board, or water-damaged electronics.
Descaling and Routine Maintenance
Tankless water heaters need maintenance because water is heated through narrow passages. Minerals can build up on the heat exchanger, especially in hard-water areas. Annual descaling is a good baseline. In hard water, well water, rental properties, RVs with variable campground water, or heavy-use homes, every 6 months may be more realistic.
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A typical descaling setup uses isolation valves, two washing-machine hoses, a small transfer pump, a 5-gallon bucket, and a tankless-safe descaling solution or white vinegar if approved by the manufacturer. The solution is circulated through the heat exchanger, then the unit is flushed with clean water before being returned to service.
Plan on 60 to 90 minutes for a careful flush when valves are already installed. Without service valves, the job takes longer and may require adding isolation valves. That is one reason we like to see flush valves installed during the original tankless installation rather than treated as an accessory.
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- Instant Hot Shower, No Waiting: Don't let cold water ruin your mood. This tankless water heater delivers 1.32 gallons of hot water per minute (GPM) instantly. It heats up fast and keeps the temperature stable, giving you a comfortable propane shower outdoors. It is perfect for washing off beach sand, cleaning muddy dogs, or doing camp dishes with ease
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Maintenance checklist:
- Flush/descale at least once per year.
- Clean the inlet water filter screen.
- Inspect the exterior vent termination for blockage.
- Check for condensate drain blockage on condensing models.
- Look for water staining, corrosion, or mineral deposits around fittings.
- Verify the unit fires smoothly without delayed ignition or rumbling.
- Document service date, error codes, and any parts replaced.
Where hardness is high, consider a water softener or scale inhibition system. The upfront cost is often easier to justify than repeated heat exchanger service, especially on a whole-house tankless unit.
2026 Cost Guide: Repair, Descale, or Replace
Exact pricing depends on location, access, model, parts, and whether the installation is code-compliant. Still, homeowners need a realistic budget before deciding whether to repair or replace.
| Work type | Typical 2026 budget range | What affects the price |
|---|---|---|
| Basic diagnostic visit | Usually far less than replacement; often billed as a service call plus time | Travel, access, after-hours timing, error-code testing, and whether gas or electrical diagnostics are needed. |
| Descaling service | Commonly a modest repair compared with replacement | Whether service valves exist, water hardness, flush duration, and filter cleaning. |
| Igniter, flame sensor, pressure switch, or small parts | Varies by part availability and labor | Model, access, shipping time, diagnostic time, and whether combustion testing is required. |
| Control board or gas valve | Often a higher repair decision point | Part cost, warranty status, age of unit, and whether the failure was caused by water intrusion or improper installation. |
| Residential tankless replacement | About $2,400 to $5,400 in many national retail installation ranges; gas retrofits can run about $3,500 to $6,500 when venting or gas upgrades are needed | BTU size, venting, gas-line diameter, meter capacity, electrical outlet, condensate, permits, wall penetrations, and finish repair. |
| Standard tank replacement comparison | Often around $1,600 to $2,400 installed, with some 2026 national estimating data starting around $1,586 to $1,843 before local options | Tank size, location, code upgrades, expansion tank, drain pan, seismic strapping where required, and disposal. |
Unit-only pricing for residential Fogatti models can be hundreds to low thousands of dollars depending on BTU rating, GPM capacity, fuel type, and indoor versus outdoor design. Installed cost is usually dominated by labor, venting, gas, electrical, permit, and finish work.
Use this repair-versus-replace rule of thumb: replace the unit when the heat exchanger leaks, major parts are unavailable, multiple safety components have failed, the unit is incorrectly sized, the installation is fundamentally wrong, or code upgrades make repeated repairs uneconomical. Repair makes more sense when the issue is a clogged filter, scale buildup, a known replaceable sensor, a fixture-flow issue, or a minor installation correction.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Gas Line, Venting, and Permit Issues Homeowners Miss
A tankless water heater is not just a box on the wall. It interacts with the whole building. That is where many troublesome installations start.
Gas tankless water heaters often have a higher BTU demand than storage tanks. A home that had enough gas capacity for a 40,000 BTU tank may not automatically support a 160,000 to 199,000 BTU tankless unit. A proper retrofit may require checking the gas meter, regulator, branch line diameter, total developed length, and other connected appliances such as furnace, range, fireplace, and dryer.
The Tool Desk
Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Venting is equally specific. Indoor gas tankless units require manufacturer-approved vent materials, clearances, slope, support, termination location, and maximum equivalent length. Condensing units also need proper condensate drainage, and some jurisdictions require neutralization before discharge. Outdoor models avoid some vent-pipe routing but still need clearances from windows, doors, air intakes, soffits, property lines, and mechanical equipment.
We also look at freeze exposure, wall penetrations, exterior flashing, service clearances, electrical receptacle location, and whether future maintenance can be done without tearing open finishes. A cheap installation that blocks access to the inlet filter or omits flush valves costs the homeowner later.
Permits are local, but water heater replacement, relocation, fuel conversion, vent changes, and new gas piping commonly require review. Some municipalities publish prescriptive water heater requirements, and permit fees vary by jurisdiction. In parts of California, contractor-market permit figures around $150 to $400 are common, but the only reliable answer is your local building department. A same-day patch can become a permitted correction project if the existing vent is unsafe, the gas line is undersized, or the appliance was installed without required clearances.
When to DIY vs. When to Hire a Pro
Reasonable DIY checks
Homeowners can safely handle a limited list of tasks when there is no gas smell, scorching, leak from the heater cabinet, or carbon monoxide concern. Check the display code, reset the unit once according to the manual, restore power at the breaker or GFCI, confirm water valves are open, clean faucet aerators and shower screens, remove visible debris from the exterior vent, check propane level, and document when the problem happens.
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- Important Note: Ensure this tankless water heater meets your installation requirements, 150 Amp Household Service Recommended. The WN18 model is rated at 18KW (240V) with a maximum amperage of 75A. It requires 2 x 40 Amp DP breakers and 2 x 8/2 AWG wiring. The unit dimensions are 11.1” (W) x 19.2 ” (H) x 4” (D), the water connection is 3/4" NPT, Please consult a qualified electrician before purchasing
- Stable Water Temperature: Automatically adjusts energy consumption based on incoming water temperature and flow rate to ensure maximum efficiency, continuous stable temperature, and optimal power usage. Its maximum hot water output is 4.3 gallons per minute. It is perfect for residential shower use, eliminating the need to wait for preheating. There’s no longer any concern about running out of hot water in the tank, and you won’t experience temperature fluctuations during your shower. Provides continuous hot water for showers and everyday household use
- Energy Saving: Self-modulating technology automatically adjusts power consumption based on real-time water flow and the set temperature. When the water flow decreases, the system reduces power to save energy; when not in use, it consumes no electricity, achieving up to 99% energy savings. Compared to traditional tank water heaters, it is more energy-efficient. Ideal for 2–3 bathroom homes in mild to moderate climate conditions
- Space Saving: The WN18 Compact wall-mounted design that frees up storage space, occupying 90% less space compared to traditional tank water heaters. It is suitable for tight areas and can be easily installed anywhere. It provides an endless supply of hot water in a short time without the need to wait for preheating. Equipped with remote WiFi control, you can adjust the temperature without being near the water heater
- Safe Usage: Safety is always WINTEMP’s top priority. The product features multiple safety protections, including leakage protection, overheat protection, and dry-fire protection, and is ETL certified to fully ensure your safety, allowing you to enjoy hot water anytime, anywhere with peace of mind. We also provide a Backed by a 2-year limited manufacturer warranty and long-term technical support. along with long-term professional technical support to give you worry-free use
You can also clean an accessible inlet filter if the manual shows the procedure and the water is shut off. Descaling can be DIY for an experienced homeowner if isolation valves are present and the manual allows the method, but many owners prefer paying for service because the technician can also check combustion, venting, and early signs of leaks.
Call a licensed plumber or gas technician
Bring in a pro for repeated E1 or E8 faults, gas pressure testing, regulator adjustment, burner service, igniter or flame sensor replacement, pressure-switch diagnosis, fan faults, control-board diagnosis, vent correction, gas-line sizing, fuel conversion, condensate problems, electrical faults, and any suspected heat exchanger leak.
For residential work, hire someone who understands both plumbing and combustion. For RV work, use a technician familiar with RV propane systems, 12-volt controls, sidewall appliances, and campground water-pressure issues. The wrong tech can miss the actual constraint because RV and residential Fogatti units share symptoms but not the same system design.
Before You Call: What to Gather
A little documentation can shorten the service visit and reduce guesswork. Before calling, collect:
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- Model number, serial number, and fuel type.
- Photo of the rating plate and installation area.
- Photo or video of the error code.
- Approximate age of the heater and installation date.
- Last descaling or maintenance date.
- Whether the issue happens at one fixture or all fixtures.
- Whether it happens during rain, wind, freezing weather, or high demand.
- For RVs, propane level, recent tank changes, battery voltage concerns, pump behavior, and campground water-pressure observations.
- For homes, whether other gas appliances run normally at the same time.
Also note any recent changes: new shower head, plumbing repair, water softener issue, gas meter work, propane tank replacement, remodel, roof work, siding work, or pest activity around the vent. Those details often point directly to the cause.
Bottom Line
Most Fogatti tankless water heater troubleshooting should start with the simple system checks: correct model, stable power, adequate flow, open fuel supply, clean filters, clear venting, and current descaling. For RV units, low-flow shutdowns and propane supply issues are common. For residential units, water flow, scale, gas capacity, venting, condensate, and code compliance deserve close attention.
The line between DIY and professional work is combustion safety. Cleaning a screen is one thing. Adjusting propane pressure, bypassing a switch, modifying venting, or repeatedly forcing ignition is another. If the heater is telling you it cannot prove flame, airflow, or safe operation, stop treating the code as a nuisance and get the system checked properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E1 mean on a Fogatti tankless water heater?
On many tankless heaters, E1 points to ignition failure or flame loss, but Fogatti error meanings can vary by model. Check your exact manual. Start with power, water flow, gas valve position, propane level, air in the gas line, and vent blockage. If E1 repeats, call a licensed technician for gas pressure, igniter, flame sensor, burner, and control diagnostics.
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Random freezes, missing sound and display glitches usually trace back to one bad driver. Find and replace yours safely.Free scan · under a minuteWhy does my Fogatti tankless water heater turn on but not heat water?
Common causes include low water flow, a clogged inlet filter, closed or restricted gas supply, air in a propane line, scale buildup, blocked venting, incorrect setpoint use, or a failed ignition component. If the display works but the burner does not stay lit, stop after basic checks and have the combustion system tested.
What does E8 mean on a Fogatti RV tankless water heater?
E8 is often reported with vent, wind-pressure, or airflow-related complaints on RV units, but you should confirm the definition in your exact manual. Check for blocked exhaust, insect nests, wind-driven rain, snow, damaged vent parts, and whether the fault happens only in certain weather. Repeated E8 faults need technician diagnosis.
How do I reset a Fogatti tankless water heater safely?
Use the reset procedure in the manual for your exact model. Usually that means turning the unit off, waiting briefly, restoring power, and opening a hot-water fixture to restart demand. Do not keep resetting a gas appliance that repeatedly fails to ignite or loses flame.
How often should a Fogatti tankless water heater be descaled?
Annual descaling is a good baseline. In hard-water areas, well-water systems, RVs with variable campground water, or heavy-use homes, every 6 months may be more appropriate. Clean the inlet filter during the same maintenance visit.
Can low water flow shut off a Fogatti tankless water heater?
Yes. Tankless heaters need minimum flow to activate and stay firing. For many RV-style complaints, about 1 GPM is a commonly cited threshold. Low-flow shower heads, clogged screens, weak RV pumps, partially closed valves, and restrictive water-saving habits can all cause shutdowns.
Quick Recap
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