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A farmhouse table plan is useful only when you follow one complete version: its dimensions, shopping list, cut list, tools, diagrams, and assembly order. Ana White publishes several distinct designs, including pocket-hole, no-pocket-hole, modern, and beginner options. The measurements below belong to one specific updated pocket-hole plan—not a universal farmhouse-table standard.
Choose a plan before buying lumber
Start with the design that fits your tools, joinery preferences, seating needs, and available materials. Do not combine a shopping list from one plan with the cut list or assembly steps from another. Ana White’s updated pocket-hole farmhouse table plan and no-pocket-hole plan are different builds; the site also offers a modern farm table and a simplified beginner table.
| Plan option | Joinery and listed materials | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Updated pocket-hole farmhouse table | Uses 4×4 posts, 2x4s, 2x8s, and a 2×10; includes a Kreg jig in its tool list. | Use its own dimensions, bill of materials, cut list, diagrams, and assembly sequence. |
| No-pocket-hole farmhouse table | Uses 8 2x4s, 6 2x2s, one 2×8, and 7 2x6s, with 2 3/4-inch and 4-inch self-tapping screws. Listed tools include a circular saw and drill. | This is a materially different design; do not apply its quantities to the pocket-hole plan. |
Before settling on a design, compare the finished dimensions with the room and the number of people you expect to seat. Check the plan page’s dimensions and instructions before purchasing or cutting; changes to one part can affect the fit of others. Lumber availability and prices vary, and the listed plan estimates are not verified current costs.
Updated pocket-hole plan: shopping list and cut list
The following quantities and cuts are for Ana White’s updated pocket-hole plan only. Confirm them against the current plan page before work begins.
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Shopping list
- 4 2×4 boards, 8 feet long
- 1 4×4 post, 10 feet long
- 4 2×8 boards, 6 feet long
- 1 2×8 board, 8 feet long, for breadboard ends
- 1 2×10 board, 6 feet long
Cut list
| Part | Quantity and cut length |
|---|---|
| 4×4 legs | 4 at 29 inches |
| 2×4 long aprons | 2 at 67 inches |
| 2×4 short aprons | 2 at 27 inches |
| 2×4 stretcher | 1 at 74 inches |
| Stretcher supports | 2 at 34 inches |
| 2×8 tabletop planks | 4 at 70.5 inches |
| 2×10 center tabletop plank | 1 at 70.5 inches |
| 2×8 breadboard ends | 2 at approximately 38 inches, measured to the joined top |
These are nominal lumber dimensions and plan-specific cuts. Lay out the parts and verify the plan’s diagrams and measurements before making irreversible cuts; do not assume substitutions or revised finished dimensions will fit without changing related components.
Tools and preparation
The updated plan lists a Kreg jig, drill, circular saw, and other basic tools. The page names a jig but does not establish a currently verified model. A pocket-hole jig enables the plan’s specified joinery; it is not a substitute for following the plan’s placement and assembly instructions.
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- This is our product offering of woodworking plans and instructions to build the project shown above.
- We do not sell the actual pre-built product or kit. We sell plans on how to build the item shown.
- This woodworking plan is proudly designed in New Zealand and printed in Canada.
- English language only. Measurements are offered in both inches and metric. Rated for novice carpenters, woodworkers and craftspeople.
- Gather the tools and fasteners specified by the selected plan, rather than borrowing requirements from a different version.
- Check each board for defects and confirm that the stock is long and wide enough for the specified cuts.
- Review the assembly sequence and diagrams before cutting, especially where the stretcher, aprons, legs, tabletop, and breadboard ends meet.
- Use appropriate eye, hearing, and respiratory protection when cutting, drilling, or sanding; follow the tool makers’ safety instructions.
Build sequence: follow the selected plan
Use the plan page’s assembly order and diagrams for the actual construction steps; the plan variants do not share one universal sequence. For the updated pocket-hole design, the parts list identifies a leg-and-apron base with a stretcher, a plank top, and breadboard ends. Assemble and check the base and top as directed by that version before attaching the tabletop. Do not infer unlisted fastener placements or joint details from another plan.
Attach a solid-wood top so it can move
A wide solid-wood top changes width as humidity changes. The base should hold it in place without locking the top against that seasonal movement. WOOD Magazine describes attachment approaches such as figure-eight connectors, Z-clips, and wood buttons for securing a tabletop while allowing movement: tabletop fasteners. Treat this as general woodworking guidance, not as confirmation that these methods or hardware are included in Ana White’s plan. Select and install an attachment method appropriate to the design and its instructions.
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Fit breadboard ends without restraining the panel
Breadboard ends cap the ends of a tabletop, but they are not simply decorative strips to glue across the full width. The tabletop panel’s grain runs along its length, while the breadboard grain runs crosswise; the panel therefore needs room to expand and contract across its width. WOOD Magazine explains the movement issue and joint considerations in its breadboard-end guidance. A full-width rigid glue joint can restrain movement and risk damage. Follow the selected plan’s joint details, and do not treat a breadboard end as a substitute for a movement-friendly top attachment.
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.




