To buy lumber that makes better cabinets, start with a cut list, then choose species, grade, thickness, and sawing pattern for the parts you need. Inspect each board’s usable clear sections, moisture condition, and appearance, and compare cost by board foot rather than relying on a grade label alone.
Cabinet-quality lumber is not necessarily the highest grade or most expensive stock. The best buy is lumber whose usable sections, dimensions, grain, and color suit your cabinet parts with as little avoidable waste as possible.
1. Start With a Cut List
Before visiting a hardwood dealer, list the cabinet parts you plan to make. Include each part’s length, width, and finished thickness, and note which faces will be visible. A cutting diagram helps you judge whether a board’s clear areas can yield the parts you need.
Hardwood is commonly sold in random widths and lengths, with thickness stated in quarters: 4/4, 5/4, and so on. Confirm whether boards are rough or surfaced and how much usable thickness will remain after milling. One board foot is 144 cubic inches; calculate board feet from thickness, width, and length in inches divided by 144.
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2. Choose Grade for the Parts You Need
Hardwood grades describe clear-wood cutting yield under grading rules; they do not promise that every part of a board is defect-free or attractive. Match the grade to the sizes and number of clear parts on your cut list, and inspect the actual boards before buying.
| Grade | What the grade indicates | Buying consideration |
|---|---|---|
| FAS | At least 83⅓% clear-wood cutting yield across the board surface; both faces must meet grade requirements. | Can suit longer or larger clear parts, but still inspect the board and plan your cuts. |
| FAS One Face (F1F) | One face meets FAS requirements; the poorer face meets No. 1 Common requirements. | May work when one face is the show face. Ask which side is graded FAS. |
| No. 1 Common | Clear cutting yield begins at 66⅔% and falls below FAS minimums. | Often called “cabinet grade” in the United States; its smaller clear areas may suit cabinet parts. |
| No. 2A Common | An economy grade with a lower minimum clear yield than No. 1 Common. | Consider it when your parts can use shorter or smaller clear cuttings. |
The American Hardwood Export Council says, “The Number 1 Common grade is often referred to as the Cabinet grade in the USA because of its adaptability to the standard sizes of kitchen cabinet doors used throughout the United States.” These grade yields are definitions, not a prediction of what your particular cut plan will recover. Ask whether an order combines upper grades, such as FAS with F1F or Selects.
3. Select Species, Grain, and Sawing Pattern
Choose a species for the intended use and the cabinet’s appearance. Compare actual boards for color, grain, texture, knots, checks, and usable dimensions. If the finish is stained or clear-coated, hand-selecting boards can help you coordinate visible parts; a grade label alone cannot guarantee a color or grain match.
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Plainsawn and quartersawn describe how a board is cut in relation to its annual rings. The pattern affects the appearance of the grain. Decide based on the look and parts you need rather than assuming one sawing pattern is always more stable or better.
4. Check Moisture and Store Lumber Properly
Interior target moisture guidance varies by source and conditions. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach recommends 6–8% moisture content for indoor furniture, paneling, and trim. WOOD Magazine describes kiln-dried lumber at 6–9% as ideal for interior projects. Treat these as attributed guidance, not a universal guarantee: the right equilibrium depends on the environment where the cabinets will live.
Ask whether the lumber is kiln-dried and how it has been stored. Let it acclimate indoors before final milling, and keep it flat on dry stickers. WOOD Magazine cautions against placing kiln-dried lumber directly on concrete.
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5. Inspect Boards Against Your Cut Plan
Where possible, hand-select boards at the dealer. Compare each board’s clear sections with the parts you need, and consider whether a knot, check, or color variation can be cut away or placed in a hidden area. A board with a lower grade may be a better value for short parts than a higher-grade board with more clear area than your plan can use.
- Show the dealer your cut list or cutting diagram and identify the visible faces.
- Ask about species, grade, rough or surfaced condition, thickness, board-foot calculation, and any grade mix in the order.
- Inspect the actual usable areas for defects, color, grain, and dimensions that fit your parts.
- Check drying and storage condition, then plan indoor acclimation before final milling.
- Compare board-foot cost and total usable yield, including milling loss and expected waste.
6. Estimate Quantity and Cost
Calculate the board footage you need from your cut plan, then account for milling loss and waste. When you cannot hand-select boards, WOOD Magazine suggests allowing about 20% extra footage as a rule of thumb. It is not a universal guarantee; your cut plan, board sizes, defects, and matching requirements affect the amount needed.
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Ask the dealer to explain how board footage is calculated and compare boards on like dimensions and condition. Local inventory and prices vary, and this research does not establish current prices or a national price range. Check with local specialty lumber dealers for availability and current quotes.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What does “cabinet grade” lumber mean?
In the United States, No. 1 Common is often called cabinet grade because it can suit common cabinet-door sizes and other furniture parts. The grade describes clear cutting yield, not a guarantee that every board will match your project’s appearance or cut list.
Is FAS always the best grade for cabinets?
No. FAS provides a higher clear cutting yield, but you may not need its longer or larger clear sections. Choose grade based on the sizes and number of parts on your cut list, then inspect the boards and compare usable yield.
What moisture content should cabinet lumber have?
Iowa State University Extension and Outreach recommends 6–8% for indoor furniture, paneling, and trim. WOOD Magazine describes 6–9% as ideal for interior projects. Conditions vary, so ask about kiln-drying, acclimate lumber indoors, and store it flat on dry stickers.
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How much extra lumber should I buy?
Estimate from a cutting diagram and hand-select boards when possible. If you cannot select the boards, WOOD Magazine suggests about 20% extra footage as a rule of thumb; actual waste depends on the cut plan, stock, and matching needs.
How do I compare hardwood prices?
Compare price per board foot for stock with similar species, grade, dimensions, and rough or surfaced condition. Then consider the clear areas you can use for your parts, not just the board-foot price.
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