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Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Outbyte Driver Updater FREEFix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Empress tree is one of those plants that looks impressive right up until it becomes a property problem. It grows fast, flowers heavily, and can shoot up in poor soil where better-behaved trees struggle. That is also why homeowners should avoid planting it and remove it when it appears in a lawn, fence line, pavement crack, drainage area, or wooded edge.
The polished name is empress tree, but you may also hear princess tree, royal paulownia, kiri tree, foxglove tree, or the botanical name Paulownia tomentosa. The problem is the same under every name: it is a fast-growing, nonnative tree that spreads by windblown seed and resprouts aggressively from roots and stumps.
The short answer is this: do not plant it, do not simply cut it and walk away, and do plan for follow-up. A good removal plan has two parts: remove the aboveground tree, then stop the stump, root crown, and seedlings from restarting the infestation. On our construction and site-prep work, we treat empress tree as a repeat-control project, not a one-day cleanup.
Why Empress Tree Is a Problem Around Homes
Empress tree is not just a wildland issue. It is a residential property issue because it thrives in disturbed places: compacted urban soils, scraped lots, pavement cracks, rocky slopes, streambanks, fence rows, alleys, gutters with built-up organic matter, and sunny woodland edges. Those are the exact places homeowners, builders, and landscapers disturb during grading, trenching, drainage work, patio installation, demolition, and fence replacement.
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A mature empress tree can become large enough to shade out smaller native plants, drop seed into every open patch nearby, and create a constant supply of seedlings. Its winged seeds move by wind and water, so one tree near a drainage swale, creek, ditch, or street gutter can spread farther than the property line. In the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, it has been reported invasive from Pennsylvania south to Georgia and west to Missouri, and local status varies by state and county.
Updated extension guidance in 2026 recommends not planting princess or empress tree and replacing existing specimens when possible. That advice is practical. Once the tree is established, a simple saw cut commonly creates a ring of sprouts or root suckers. A homeowner may think the job is done in March and find waist-high regrowth by July.
The construction-adjacent risks deserve more attention than they usually get. Empress trees near foundations, retaining walls, patios, sidewalks, fences, sewer laterals, downspout drains, and driveway edges should be evaluated before removal. The question is not only, “Can we cut it?” The better question is, “What happens to the stump, roots, soil, drainage, and hardscape after we cut it?”
How to Identify Empress Tree Before You Remove It
Positive identification matters because the control method depends on the plant’s size and location. Empress tree has very large, often heart-shaped leaves, especially on young stems and sprouts. Leaves may be 6 to 12 inches across on older growth and even larger on vigorous shoots. The tree often has opposite leaves, a fast upright habit, and pale purple, foxglove-like spring flowers on mature trees. Seed capsules can remain on the tree and release many small winged seeds.
Young seedlings can look oversized compared with surrounding weeds because the leaves are broad and soft-looking. Saplings often appear along fences, at the edge of a mowed lawn, behind sheds, near culverts, or in cracks where soil and debris collect. Larger trees may have a broad crown, fast-grown limbs, and weak-looking wood compared with slower native hardwoods.
If you are unsure, take clear photos of the leaves, bark, flowers or seed capsules if present, the full tree, and the site context. Send them to your local extension office, invasive plant program, arborist, or qualified landscape professional. Before hiring a contractor, photos also help with estimates, HOA approval, permit files, and insurance documentation.
The Right Removal Strategy Depends on Size
The best removal method changes as the tree gets larger. A seedling in wet soil is a hand-pull job. A 4-inch stem in a fence line is usually a cut-stump treatment job. A 50-foot tree leaning over a garage is professional tree work with rigging, utility awareness, stump treatment, and follow-up monitoring.
The mistake is treating all empress trees the same. Cutting alone may remove the immediate shade and trunk, but it often leaves a living root system ready to send up new shoots. Stump grinding improves the yard surface and removes a tripping hazard, but grinding by itself is not the same as killing the root system. Full root-crown removal may be better in some construction zones, but it can disturb soil, utilities, pavement, or drainage structures.
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For very young seedlings, hand-pulling can work when the soil is moist. Pull slowly and remove the full root. If the stem snaps and the root remains, the plant can resprout. A hand trowel, narrow shovel, gloves, and a bucket are usually enough. DIY cost may be under $50 if you already own basic tools.
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Inspect again after rain and during active growth. Seedlings often appear in waves because seed is already present in the soil or arriving from a nearby tree. For a small yard, plan on checking every 2 to 4 weeks through the first growing season.
Saplings and small stems
Small empress trees can be controlled with foliar herbicide when they are low enough to spray without drift onto desirable plants. A commonly cited approach for seedlings and small trees is a 3% glyphosate solution with 0.5% nonionic surfactant, applied according to the product label and local pesticide rules. Foliar spraying is not a good fit next to vegetable gardens, ponds, creeks, ornamental beds, or windy property edges.
If the stem is too tall for clean foliar application, cut-stump treatment is often more precise. Cut the stem close to the ground, then treat the fresh cut surface immediately. For larger stems, some invasive plant programs cite 25% glyphosate or 50% triclopyr for cut-stump treatment. The key field detail is timing: treat the cut surface within minutes. A best-practice target is within 5 minutes of cutting, before the stump begins sealing off.
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Large empress trees belong in the same risk category as other substantial tree removals. If the tree is near a roof, garage, service drop, public street, fence, slope, retaining wall, or neighboring property, hire an insured tree-care professional. Mature empress trees can have weak, fast-grown wood, and removal may require climbing, rigging, a lift, traffic control, or crane access.
For larger stems, the removal scope should include felling or sectional removal, debris hauling, stump grinding or root-crown work, herbicide treatment where appropriate, lawn repair, and follow-up inspection. Ask for those items as separate lines in the quote so you can compare bids honestly.
2026 Empress Tree Removal Cost Guide
Most homeowners should budget for tree removal plus stump or root treatment, not just cutting. National 2026 tree removal averages sit around $750 to $906, with many ordinary removals falling between about $200 and $2,000 or more depending on size and complexity. A defensible planning number for a typical professional removal is about $850 before unusual access, hazards, stump work, permits, or follow-up treatments.
Empress-tree-specific pricing can run higher than a basic cut-and-haul job because control is the goal. If the contractor cuts the tree, grinds the stump 6 inches deep, leaves the root system alive, and never returns, you may still be paying for sprout control later.
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| Item | Typical 2026 Cost | What Changes the Price |
|---|---|---|
| Small tree removal under 30 ft | $150-$450 | Access, number of stems, debris hauling, nearby fences or structures |
| Medium tree removal, 30-60 ft | $450-$1,200 | Limb spread, lean, rigging, slope, backyard access |
| Large tree removal, 60-80 ft | $800-$1,500 | Roof proximity, decay, lift access, traffic control, disposal volume |
| Very large or difficult tree, 80+ ft | $1,000-$2,000+ | Crane work, power lines, tight drop zones, emergency scheduling |
| Extreme hazard removal | Up to several thousand dollars; rare cases can approach $10,000 | Storm damage, utilities, roads, structures, major rigging or crane setup |
| Stump grinding | $131-$438 typical; about $250-$272 average | Diameter, grinding depth, rocks, roots, access, cleanup |
| Full stump/root removal | $195-$609 typical; about $369 average | Root plate size, soil, utility conflicts, machinery access |
Stump grinding is often priced by diameter or by job minimum. Common pricing falls around $2 to $6 per diameter inch, with minimum charges around $80 to $160. Large stumps can cost much more, sometimes up to $1,600 when access, size, and cleanup are difficult.
DIY costs can look low, but they are not zero. For seedlings, gloves, loppers, shovel, and eye protection may cost under $50 if you already own some tools. Herbicide, dye, surfactant, and a labeled applicator setup may add roughly $25 to $100 or more. Renting a stump grinder adds rental cost, transport, fuel, and safety gear, and it still does not remove the full root system.
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The main cost drivers are tree height, trunk diameter, lean, decay, limb spread, proximity to structures and power lines, slope, access width, need for rigging or crane work, disposal volume, stump diameter, root spread, rocks, number of stems, permit fees, emergency scheduling, and whether follow-up herbicide visits are included.
Cutting, Grinding, Pulling, and Herbicide Are Not the Same
Good empress tree control starts with choosing the correct tool for the job. These methods are often talked about as if they are interchangeable, but they do different things.
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Hand-pulling removes small seedlings when the soil is moist and the root comes out intact. It is low-cost and low-disturbance, but it only works on very young plants.
Foliar spray treats leaves on seedlings and small saplings. It can be efficient for many small stems, but it requires careful weather conditions, label compliance, and drift control. Avoid spraying during rain, high wind, drought stress, or where runoff could reach desirable plants or water.
Cut-stump treatment is used after cutting a stem. The herbicide is applied to the fresh stump surface and cambium area immediately after cutting. This is one of the most useful methods for empress tree because it targets resprouting at the stump and root crown. Late summer through fall is often preferred because the tree is moving carbohydrates down toward the roots.
Basal bark treatment applies herbicide around the lower stem without cutting first. It is typically better suited to trained applicators and specific product labels.
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Stem injection places herbicide into cuts or injection points in the trunk. This is a professional or trained-applicator method for certain situations.
Stump grinding mechanically removes the visible stump and some upper roots. It makes the yard usable again and helps with mowing, replanting, and trip hazards. It does not guarantee biological control if living roots remain.
Full stump and root-crown removal physically removes more of the plant’s base. This can be useful before construction, hardscape repair, or regrading, but it may require machinery and utility locating.
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When to DIY and When to Hire a Pro
DIY removal is reasonable for seedlings, very small saplings, and open areas where you can remove the full root or apply a labeled product safely. A homeowner with gloves, eye protection, loppers, a shovel, and patience can handle scattered seedlings along a fence or lawn edge.
Hire a professional when the tree is over 15 to 20 feet tall, has a trunk larger than you can safely control, leans toward a structure, grows near power lines, sits close to a public sidewalk or road, or requires climbing. Also hire help if the stump is near a foundation, retaining wall, patio, sewer lateral, irrigation line, gas line, or drainage structure. Call 811 before digging or grinding where buried utilities may be present.
For construction-adjacent properties, we look at the whole site before choosing the removal method. A stump next to a sidewalk may need grinding and slab repair. A tree against a retaining wall may require staged removal so the wall is not destabilized. Roots near a foundation or sewer lateral may call for inspection before aggressive excavation. A tree growing in a drainage swale may need erosion control and replanting right after removal.
When requesting bids, ask for a line-item quote covering felling or sectional removal, stump grinding depth, herbicide treatment, debris hauling, lawn repair, permit handling, and one follow-up visit. If a contractor refuses to discuss regrowth, that is a red flag for this species.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Permits, Utilities, and Safety Checks
Tree rules are local. Some cities regulate private-property tree removal by trunk diameter, species, location, heritage status, or development activity. Others require replacement trees or mitigation fees. A nuisance or invasive species designation may help, but it does not automatically eliminate permit requirements everywhere.
Before removal, check your city or county tree ordinance, HOA rules, and state invasive-plant guidance. Take photos of the trunk, canopy, location, defects, and nearby structures before work starts. Measure trunk diameter at the required height if your local permit form asks for it. Many ordinances use diameter at breast height, commonly measured 4.5 feet above grade, but local forms can vary.
Power lines are not a DIY boundary to negotiate. If limbs are near overhead electrical service, contact the utility or hire a qualified tree contractor who is authorized and insured for that work. For digging, excavation, or root removal, call 811 and wait for utility marks. Keep herbicide away from wells, storm drains, creeks, ponds, desirable trees, vegetable gardens, and exposed roots of plants you want to keep.
Best Timing for Removal and Follow-Up
You can remove hazardous trees whenever safety requires it. For planned control, late summer through fall is often a strong window for cut-stump treatment because the tree is moving energy toward the roots. That movement can improve control when the stump is treated immediately after cutting.
A practical timeline looks like this:
- Day 1: photograph, identify, check permits, mark utilities if digging or grinding is planned.
- Removal day: cut or remove aboveground growth and treat the fresh stump within minutes if using cut-stump herbicide.
- First 30 days: inspect the stump, root zone, fence lines, cracks, and nearby beds for sprouts.
- First growing season: inspect every 2 to 4 weeks, especially after rain and warm weather.
- Second year: inspect in spring and mid-summer for seedlings or delayed root suckers.
For infestations, work in order. Remove mature seed-producing trees first, then saplings, then seedlings. If you only pull seedlings while the parent tree is still dropping seed, the job never ends. After the big trees are controlled, the seedling workload usually becomes manageable.
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What to Plant Instead
Leaving bare soil after empress tree removal invites the next weed problem. Replant with regionally appropriate native trees, shrubs, groundcovers, or turf repair as soon as the site is stable. The right replacement depends on your region, sunlight, soil moisture, overhead lines, and available root space.
Good native options to research locally include redbud, serviceberry, flowering dogwood where disease pressure is acceptable, blackgum, oak species, tuliptree for large open sites, and native magnolia species where space and climate fit. In tighter urban yards, choose smaller understory trees instead of forcing a large canopy tree into a 6-foot strip between pavement and a foundation.
Match the mature size to the site. A tree that reaches 50 to 80 feet tall does not belong under utility lines or 8 feet from a house. For a front yard with overhead wires, a 15- to 25-foot mature tree may be the better long-term choice. For a large back lot, an oak or blackgum may provide better shade, habitat, and structure than a short-lived invasive tree.
Mulch matters too. Use a 2- to 3-inch mulch layer around new plantings, keep mulch a few inches off the trunk, and water during the first growing season. Healthy replacement plants shade the soil and make it harder for empress tree seedlings to reclaim the site.
Bottom Line
Empress tree is worth removing because it spreads easily, resprouts aggressively, and creates avoidable maintenance around homes and construction features. The right plan is not complicated, but it does need follow-through: identify it correctly, remove the aboveground growth safely, treat or remove the stump and root crown, monitor for sprouts, and replant with better species.
For small seedlings, a homeowner can often handle the work with hand tools and repeated inspections. For larger stems, trees near structures, utility conflicts, or any job requiring climbing and rigging, hire an insured professional and make sure the quote includes stump or root treatment. Cutting the tree is only the visible part of the job. Keeping it gone is the part that protects the property.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is empress tree the same as princess tree?
Yes. Empress tree, princess tree, royal paulownia, kiri tree, foxglove tree, and Paulownia tomentosa usually refer to the same invasive tree.
Will an empress tree grow back if I cut it down?
Often, yes. Cutting alone can trigger stump sprouts and root suckers. For reliable control, use properly timed cut-stump treatment, root-crown removal, or professional follow-up.
How much does empress tree removal cost in 2026?
Typical professional tree removal averages about $750 to $906 nationally, with many jobs ranging from $200 to $2,000+. Stump grinding commonly adds about $131 to $438.
Can I remove a small empress tree myself?
Yes, if it is a seedling or small sapling in an open area. Pull seedlings when soil is moist and remove the full root. Larger trees, leaning trees, and trees near utilities or structures need a pro.
Is stump grinding enough to kill empress tree?
Not always. Grinding removes the visible stump and improves the yard surface, but living roots may still sprout. Monitor the area and treat regrowth promptly.
Do I need a permit to remove empress tree?
Possibly. Tree permits are local and may depend on trunk diameter, location, property type, and local ordinances. Check city, county, and HOA rules before cutting.
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