For repeated, consistent strips, a table saw is useful when the blank has a sound edge and the strips are at least 1/4 inch wide. A bandsaw is better suited to wider or thicker stock when you can plane away blade marks, while a handsaw offers a practical alternative for one-off cuts. The right method depends on the strip dimensions, the condition of the blank, and the saw and setup available.
WOOD magazine’s Craig Ruegsegger outlines these approaches in “The Skinny on Cutting Thin Parts,” updated February 22, 2026. Its instructions are method-specific; they are not a controlled comparison of accuracy, speed, cost, or injury rates.
Choose a method by the cut and the blank
| Method | Best fit | Important limits and preparation |
|---|---|---|
| Table saw | Making several strips of consistent thickness from a suitable blank. | The described standard methods are not for strips narrower than 1/4 inch. Do not use them when a knot or crack bisects the edge; the source warns of shattering and kickback risks. |
| Bandsaw | Wider or thicker work where the saw can be tuned and there is enough material for cleanup. | Leave about 1/16 inch extra for planing away blade marks. Joint the new face between passes. |
| Handsaw | A one-off strip or a job where a handsaw is the available, suitable option. | Mark both faces and the end, secure the work, start at about 45 degrees, and check alignment often. |
Before choosing, check whether the blank has a straight reference edge and, where the method requires it, parallel edges. Also consider strip width, thickness and length, whether repeatability matters, fence height and stability, and whether you can prepare a flat reference face between cuts.
Cutting strips on a table saw
The table-saw techniques are distinct setups, not interchangeable instructions. Use the exact configuration intended for the cut, and follow the saw maker’s instructions for the riving knife, splitter and anti-kickback equipment.
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For short strips: lay-flat pushblock
For some short-strip cuts, Ruegsegger describes using a lay-flat pushblock. This is not a general substitute for the other pushblock method: confirm that the workpiece and setup match the article’s instructions before cutting.
For manageable-length strips: heeled pushblock over the blade
Another method uses a heeled pushblock to feed the work over the blade and can be used for strips of any manageable length. The article specifies a pushblock length of roughly 12–18 inches, depending on table depth. This particular arrangement works with a riving knife, not a splitter. Some setups may also require anti-kickback pawls to be removed or secured out of the way; do so only as the saw maker and method instructions allow.
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For strips narrower than 1/4 inch: use the separate jig method
The source describes a separate jig method for cutting strips narrower than 1/4 inch to the outside of the blade. It depends on the specified blank and jig geometry, including a threaded insert and roundhead machine screw. Do not adapt the standard pushblock methods to this narrower cut or treat the jig as a universal attachment; follow the original instructions for the complete setup.
Set up for controlled feeding
- Use a zero-clearance insert around the blade and the riving knife or splitter specified for the method.
- Check that the blank’s edge is suitable and free of a knot or crack bisecting it.
- Use the pushblock or jig appropriate to the exact cut, keeping hands away from the blade path.
- Stop if the workpiece, guard, knife or pawls do not match the saw maker’s instructions for that setup.
Resawing or slicing strips on a bandsaw
For wider or thicker work, the bandsaw method trades a rougher sawn face for stock that can be brought to final thickness afterward. Tune the saw to eliminate blade drift before relying on the fence for a straight cut.
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- Prepare a straight reference face and tune the bandsaw so the blade tracks without drift.
- Set the fence and allow about 1/16 inch of extra thickness for planing off blade marks.
- If the workpiece is more than twice as high as the fence, add a tall auxiliary fence.
- After each pass, joint the newly sawn face before using it as the reference for the next cut.
Cutting a strip by hand
A handsaw can work for a single strip when the stock can be held securely and the cut can be guided from both faces. Ruegsegger prefers a Japanese ryoba because its thinner kerf wastes less wood; that is a kerf-based rationale, not a claim about a particular brand.
- Mark the intended strip on both faces and across the end of the board.
- Secure the work so it cannot shift while you saw.
- Start the cut at about 45 degrees, then follow the marks along the length.
- Check the cut’s alignment frequently against the marks on both faces.
Clean up the sawn faces
Blade marks may need removal before the strip is ready for use. The article recommends a hand-plane pass or light sanding; for bandsawn strips, the allowance described above provides material for planing the rough face flat and to final thickness.
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