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Random freezes, missing sound and display glitches usually trace back to one bad driver. Find and replace yours safely.Free scan · under a minuteThe best low-water plant depends on your site. Match sunlight, soil drainage, climate and mature size first, then choose from these 22 drought-tolerant species. Once established, they can live on average rainfall with little or no supplemental irrigation, but every one needs dependable water while its roots grow.
“Drought-tolerant” does not mean “never water.” Colorado State University Extension notes that drought-tolerant plants need regular, relatively high amounts of water after transplanting or seeding until established. A plant in the wrong soil or climate can fail even if it is naturally adapted to dry conditions.
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What drought tolerance means in a landscape
Nebraska Extension defines a drought-tolerant plant as one that “can survive on average rainfall with little or no supplemental water once established.” That definition assumes the plant is growing in a suitable environment. Light exposure, soil texture, drainage, temperature, salt exposure and local rainfall all affect water demand.
New transplants are the important exception. Their root systems occupy only a small volume of soil, so they cannot yet reach the moisture available to an established plant. UF/IFAS and Colorado State University Extension both emphasize regular irrigation during this period. Plan the planting and its watering schedule together rather than treating a low-water label as permission to stop watering immediately.
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22 plants that handle dry conditions
The table groups each selection by its principal use and the site described in university Extension lists. “Dry sun” means a sunny location with well-drained soil; “dry shade” still requires enough indirect light for the species to grow.
| Plant | Form or use | Best-fit site or feature |
|---|---|---|
| Achillea millefolium (common yarrow) | Flowering perennial | Hot, sunny slopes; useful where a long-lived flowering plant is wanted |
| Antennaria parvifolia (Rocky Mountain pussytoes) | Low, mat-forming perennial | Dry sun; a ground-hugging choice for open, gritty sites |
| Artemisia frigida (fringed sage) | Gray-leaved perennial | Dry sun; foliage provides contrast when flowers are not in bloom |
| Bouteloua dactyloides (buffalo grass) | Low-water turf alternative | Sunny, dry areas where conventional lawn irrigation is impractical |
| Bouteloua gracilis (blue grama grass) | Warm-season grass | Sunny dry sites; suited to a naturalistic grass planting |
| Callirhoe involucrata (prairie winecups) | Spreading flowering plant | Dry sun; allow room for its spreading habit |
| Delosperma species (ice plant) | Succulent groundcover | Hot slopes with sharp drainage; avoid persistently wet soil |
| Eriogonum umbellatum (sulphurflower buckwheat) | Flowering perennial | Drought-adapted beds and slopes in full sun |
| Juniperus horizontalis (creeping juniper) | Evergreen groundcover | Dry, sunny areas needing year-round structure |
| Oenothera macrocarpa (Ozark evening primrose) | Sun-loving perennial | Dry, open planting sites with good drainage |
| Penstemon caespitosus (creeping penstemon) | Mat-forming flowering perennial | Dry sun; useful at the front of a bed or on a slope |
| Sedum species (stonecrop) | Succulent groundcover | Dry, sunny beds and containers with free-draining soil |
| Thymus species (thyme) | Aromatic low-water groundcover | Sunny, well-drained areas where a low, scented cover is useful |
| Zinnia grandiflora (prairie zinnia) | Long-blooming perennial | Dry slopes in full sun |
| Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (kinnikinnik) | Evergreen groundcover | Dry shade; provides persistent foliage where many sun plants fail |
| Geranium macrorrhizum (bigroot geranium) | Perennial groundcover | Dry shade; a foliage-forming option beneath open tree canopies |
| Liriope spicata (lilyturf) | Dry-shade groundcover | Part shade to shade with reasonably drained soil |
| Teucrium chamaedrys (wall germander) | Compact perennial | Dry shade or part sun; suited to edging and small spaces |
| Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem) | Ornamental grass | Drought-tolerant structure for sunny beds and naturalistic plantings |
| Cercis canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’ (Oklahoma redbud) | Small flowering tree | Low-water tree selection; allow for eventual canopy and root space |
| Santolina species (santolina) | Aromatic groundcover | Low-water beds with sun and well-drained soil |
| Panicum virgatum (switch grass) | Perennial ornamental grass | Low-water structure; use where a taller grass form is appropriate |
How to choose among the 22
Start with sun or shade
Most of the list is for full sun: yarrow, pussytoes, fringed sage, buffalo grass, blue grama, prairie winecups, ice plant, sulphurflower buckwheat, creeping juniper, evening primrose, creeping penstemon, sedum, thyme, prairie zinnia, little bluestem, Oklahoma redbud, santolina and switch grass. Dry shade is a different design problem. Kinnikinnik, bigroot geranium, lilyturf and wall germander are the selections specifically identified for dry or part shade. Shade beneath a dense evergreen canopy can be drier than open shade because roots compete for water, so check the actual soil before planting.
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Check drainage and soil texture
Succulents and many slope plants tolerate drought because their tissues or roots are adapted to periodic dryness, not because they can survive waterlogged soil. Ice plant, sedum, thyme, santolina and creeping penstemon need drainage that lets the root zone dry between irrigations. Conversely, a fast-draining sandy bed may require more frequent establishment watering than a loam. Improve drainage only when needed; adding organic matter indiscriminately can change the moisture balance and may create a wet pocket around plants adapted to lean soil.
Plan for the mature shape
Groundcovers such as pussytoes, prairie winecups, creeping juniper, sedum and thyme fill horizontal space. Grasses such as buffalo grass, blue grama, little bluestem and switch grass add texture and seasonal movement. Oklahoma redbud is the only listed small tree, so it needs clearance from buildings, utilities and paths. Give spreading plants room rather than crowding them and then compensating with extra irrigation.
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Evergreen foliage from creeping juniper and kinnikinnik can anchor a bed through winter. Flowering perennials such as yarrow, prairie winecups, sulphurflower buckwheat, evening primrose, creeping penstemon and prairie zinnia provide seasonal color. Native and regionally adapted grasses can add seed heads and cover for wildlife, but native status alone does not guarantee low water use. A native species planted outside its climate or in the wrong soil may need substantial supplemental irrigation.
Watering after planting: a practical schedule
Weeks one and two
Water the root ball thoroughly at planting so the entire planting hole is moist. When rain is absent, Illinois Extension recommends watering new plants every other day for the first two weeks, then adjusting for hot, dry weather. Check the soil rather than applying a fixed volume to every site: sandy soil drains quickly, while clay stays wet longer.
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Weeks three through the establishment period
Gradually lengthen the interval between irrigation events while watering deeply enough to wet the developing root zone. Nebraska Extension recommends reaching about 8 inches for herbaceous perennials and about 18 inches for trees and shrubs. Probe the soil with a trowel or rod after watering to verify the depth instead of relying on surface dampness.
UF/IFAS gives a useful container-size planning figure: a 1-gallon plant may need establishment watering for about six months, while a 3-gallon plant may need about one year. Nebraska Extension reports that drought-tolerant plants can take one to three years to establish roots, depending on plant size, soil, climate and transplant timing. These are planning ranges, not guarantees; a cool, wet season can shorten the schedule, while heat, wind or compacted soil can extend it.
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After roots are established
Reduce supplemental irrigation gradually and observe the plant through normal dry periods. Established plants may survive on average rainfall, but an exceptional drought, prolonged heat, newly disturbed roots or competition from nearby trees can still create water stress. Water deeply when the plant shows sustained stress or local guidance calls for it, rather than returning to frequent shallow sprinkling.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Mulch and irrigation layout
Apply about 2–3 inches of natural shredded mulch around plants. Keep mulch away from stems and trunks so the crown stays dry and visible. Wood chips and pine needles can retain water and reduce evaporation, according to Colorado State University Extension. Recheck the depth as mulch settles and replenish it without burying the plant.
Design irrigation by hydrozone: place plants with similar water needs on the same valve or drip line. Colorado State University Extension warns against grouping plants with different water requirements in one irrigation zone. A thirsty plant mixed with succulents either receives too little water or forces the entire zone to be overwatered. Separate establishment irrigation from long-term zones where practical, so new plants can receive extra water without keeping mature drought-adapted plants wet.
Regional fit and responsible purchasing
University lists are regional guides, not universal guarantees. Before buying, verify the plant’s hardiness, heat tolerance, soil preference, salt tolerance and mature size with a local Extension service or reputable nursery. UF/IFAS recommends checking light, soil, salt exposure, invasiveness and other local conditions; those checks matter especially outside the climates represented by the Nebraska, Colorado and Oklahoma guidance used for this list.
Ask whether a plant is permitted and noninvasive in your area. Confirm the botanical name, because common names can refer to different species. Buy the smallest healthy container that fits your schedule if you can provide the longer establishment period; larger plants give immediate visual impact but generally require more time and water to establish. In a new bed, mark each plant’s irrigation needs so future maintenance does not erase the original design.
Quick Recap
Common mistakes and fixes
- Stopping water immediately after planting: Continue regular irrigation until roots occupy surrounding soil; use the six-month, one-year and one-to-three-year ranges as planning guides.
- Planting a sun species in dense shade: Move it to a brighter location or select one of the dry-shade plants instead.
- Using a drought plant in poor drainage: Correct the drainage problem or choose a species that tolerates wetter soil; drought tolerance does not equal waterlogging tolerance.
- Applying shallow, frequent sprinkling: Water deeply enough to reach approximately 8 inches for perennials and 18 inches for trees and shrubs, then allow appropriate drying between events.
- Putting unlike plants on one irrigation zone: Reconfigure valves or drip lines so plants with comparable water needs share a hydrozone.
- Piling mulch against stems: Pull the 2–3-inch mulch layer back from crowns and trunks to reduce rot and pest problems.
- Assuming “native” means maintenance-free: Match the species to local light, soil, climate and exposure, and provide establishment care even for local natives.
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