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A screw strips when the driver slips in its recess and rounds away the edges that should transmit turning force. The safest response is to stop repeated slipping, verify the driver’s type and size, and move from the least invasive hand method to the next only when the screw’s condition justifies it. Start with a correctly fitted driver, then try a rubber band or thin fabric, and use screw-extracting pliers only when the head is exposed enough for their jaws to grip.
What a stripped screw is—and why it happens
A screw head has a shaped recess that matches a driver. Turning force is transferred through the contact between the driver’s faces and the recess walls. If the driver is the wrong type, the wrong size, tilted, or not fully seated, it can climb out of the recess instead of turning the screw. That movement is often called cam-out.
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Each slip removes or rounds a little more material from the recess edges. The altered shape gives the driver even less surface to engage, so the next attempt slips more easily. The damage can accelerate quickly when someone keeps turning after the first failed catch. iFixit’s repair guidance therefore treats “the bit does not catch immediately” as a stop signal, not an invitation to apply more force.
Fit matters more than brute force
“Push harder” is not a reliable cure. Firm, straight pressure helps keep a properly matched driver seated, but excessive pressure can also make the driver pop out or tilt. The useful goal is controlled engagement: the driver should sit squarely and fill the recess before you turn it.
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The first loosening turn is often the hardest
A stuck fastener may demand more torque at the moment it begins to break free. If the driver fit is marginal, that initial load is when slipping usually starts. Check the fit and alignment before applying turning force, and stop as soon as the tool no longer stays engaged.
Assess the screw before choosing a hand method
Do not choose a removal technique by habit. Look at the head, the access around it, and what could be damaged if the tool slips.
Check how much of the head is accessible
- Recessed head: The sides are hidden by the workpiece, so side-gripping pliers cannot reach it. A fitted driver or a friction aid is the appropriate first approach.
- Exposed head: If the head stands proud of the surface and there is room on opposite sides, screw-extracting pliers may be able to grip it.
- Partly exposed head: Test whether the jaws can contact solid metal without crushing nearby material. If they cannot, treat it as recessed.
Judge the remaining recess
- Edges still recognizable: A slightly different driver size or shape may engage. Test once, with the driver held straight.
- Edges rounded but visible: A rubber band or thin fabric may add friction between a properly sized driver and the damaged recess.
- Recess almost gone: Repeated driver attempts are unlikely to improve the situation. If the head is accessible, move to extracting pliers; otherwise stop before escalating to a powered or cutting method.
Protect the surrounding material
Consider whether a slip could scratch a finished surface, crack a plastic housing, or drop debris into an electronic device. A low-risk grip aid is preferable to cutting the head when the fastener is near delicate parts. The more invasive fallback described by iFixit uses a rotary tool to cut a new slot; that creates sparks and metal shavings and is outside the basic hand-tool sequence.
How to remove a stripped screw with hand tools
Work through these steps in order. After every attempt, inspect the recess. If a method makes the damage worse without producing movement, stop rather than repeating it.
1. Stop the slipping and clean the work area
- Release turning pressure as soon as the driver slips.
- Brush or wipe loose dirt from the screw head so the driver can reach the actual recess.
- Make sure the workpiece is supported and cannot move as you apply straight downward pressure.
- Illuminate the head from the side as well as from above; side light makes rounded edges easier to see.
Do not count a driver that spins in place as progress. Every uncontrolled rotation can remove more of the recess.
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2. Try a slightly different driver size or shape
Select a quality hand driver whose tip matches the head type. If the current tip is too small, it may wobble; if it is too large, it may not enter fully. Test a slightly smaller or larger size, and try a flathead driver only if its blade can catch solid portions of the damaged recess.
- Place the tip vertically over the screw.
- Press down firmly enough to keep it seated, without leaning the handle.
- Turn slowly in the loosening direction.
- Stop immediately if the tip climbs out, rocks, or spins without moving the screw.
“Slightly different” does not mean forcing a visibly oversized tip into the head. A forced fit can deform the recess further and make later extraction harder.
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3. Add a rubber band or thin fabric for friction
A wide rubber band laid over the screw, or a thin piece of fabric placed between the driver and the recess, can fill small gaps and increase friction. This is a low-cost attempt for a moderately damaged head, not a guaranteed solution.
- Cover the recess with a single, flat layer of rubber or fabric.
- Push the correctly sized driver through the material until the tip reaches the recess.
- Keep the driver square and apply steady downward pressure.
- Turn slowly. If the material shreds, bunches up, or the driver slips, remove it and stop.
Use only a thin layer. Several folds can prevent the driver from reaching the remaining metal edges and can make the tip less stable.
4. Grip an exposed head with screw-extracting pliers
Screw-extracting pliers are designed for damaged heads, but they require access. Their jaws must reach solid metal on opposite sides of the head. They are not a substitute for a driver on a deeply recessed screw.
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- Open the jaws just enough to approach the head without scraping the surrounding surface.
- Place the jaws as low as possible on the head, where the metal is strongest.
- Squeeze firmly and check that the jaws do not slide when you rock the handles slightly.
- Turn the pliers slowly in the loosening direction, keeping the jaws level with the screw.
- Once the screw has moved enough to turn easily, switch to a hand screwdriver if the recess can now accept one.
If the jaws chew the head without turning it, reposition once. Continued slipping can make the remaining metal too thin to grip.
5. Set a clear boundary for hand tools
If the head is recessed and the driver-and-grip-aid attempts fail, basic hand tools may no longer have a reliable contact surface. The next procedure described in iFixit’s guide is cutting a slot across the head with a rotary tool and using a flathead driver. That is an advanced fallback, not a hand-tool method: wear eye protection, control sparks, and remove every metal shaving from an electronic device before reassembly. Do not improvise this step over combustible materials or where debris cannot be recovered.
Choosing between the hand methods
| Method | Required access | Best condition | Main risk or limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correctly sized driver | Driver can reach the recess directly | Edges are mostly intact or only lightly damaged | A mismatch or tilt causes another slip and more damage |
| Slightly different driver size or flathead | Recess is open enough for a blade or alternate tip to catch | Some solid edges remain but the original fit is poor | Forcing an oversized tip can deform the head |
| Rubber band or thin fabric | Driver can sit over the covered recess | Moderate rounding with small gaps between tip and metal | Material can bunch, shred, or prevent full seating |
| Screw-extracting pliers | Head exposed on the sides | Recess is too damaged for a driver but the head still has grippable metal | Cannot reach recessed heads; jaws may slip on a thin or crushed head |
| Rotary-tool slot (advanced fallback) | Clear access above the head and safe control of debris | Hand methods have failed and a new slot is practical | Sparks and shavings; eye protection and thorough cleanup are required |
How to prevent stripping the next screw
Match the head type and size
Use a driver intended for the screw’s head pattern and choose the size that fills the recess without rocking. A precision screwdriver set with multiple labeled sizes makes it easier to test fit rather than guessing. iFixit’s educational guidance treats head type and size as essential details in repair work because the wrong tip is a common starting point for cam-out.
Seat the driver before turning
Hold the driver in line with the screw axis. Press it into the recess until it bottoms out naturally; do not use the handle as a lever to compensate for a poor fit. Keep one hand controlling the driver and the other stabilizing the workpiece when the job allows.
Apply steady, moderate pressure
Use enough downward pressure to prevent the tip from climbing out, then turn in a controlled motion. Excess force, a tilted handle, or a sudden jerk can break contact. If resistance feels abnormal, stop and verify the fit instead of increasing pressure automatically.
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Pay attention to the first turn
The initial loosening movement may require the highest torque. Start slowly and watch the tip. If it shifts in the recess, reset the driver before continuing. A deliberate pause at this point can prevent a nearly new screw from becoming a stripped one.
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The driver spins but the screw does not move
Stop. Confirm that the tip is the correct type and size and that it reaches the bottom of the recess. Try one adjacent size once. If both slip, use the rubber-band or thin-fabric method rather than repeating bare-driver attempts.
The screw head is below the surface
Side-gripping pliers are not suitable because their jaws cannot reach the head. Keep the work focused on driver engagement and friction. If no tip can catch and the surrounding material is delicate, avoid cutting or drilling without a plan for containing debris.
The head is proud, but the pliers keep sliding
Check that the jaws are gripping the sides, not the tapered top. Move lower on the head and squeeze before turning. If the head has become too thin or rounded for a secure bite, stop; crushing it further can remove the last usable gripping surface.
The rubber band tears immediately
The recess may be too severely rounded, the band may be too thick, or the driver may be the wrong size. Remove the torn material, clean the head, and reassess. Do not pack in more layers to compensate for a tip that cannot seat.
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The screw begins to turn, then binds
Keep the driver aligned and continue with slow, even torque only if the recess remains fully engaged. If the workpiece is flexible, support it so the screw is not being pulled sideways. A driver that starts to cam out should be withdrawn and refitted rather than forced through the tight section.
The screw is in an electronic device
Prioritize containment of debris and protection of the housing. Use the least invasive method that can work, and keep loose rubber, fabric fibers, and metal particles out of openings. If a rotary tool is used as an advanced fallback, remove all shavings before the device is closed or powered.
What to keep in a practical hand-tool kit
- Multiple-size precision drivers: Labeled tips let you test fit accurately and reduce guesswork.
- A standard hand screwdriver assortment: Useful when the damaged screw is larger or has a different head pattern than precision hardware.
- Rubber bands or thin fabric scraps: Household friction aids for a moderately damaged recess.
- Screw-extracting pliers: A specialized option for heads that stand proud of the surface and can be gripped from the sides.
- Bright task lighting and a small brush: Good visibility and a clean recess improve the chance of a controlled engagement.
Neither a driver set nor extracting pliers guarantees removal. Their usefulness depends on the remaining metal, access, screw size, and the material around the fastener.
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Stop at the first uncontrolled slip, restore a proper fit, and escalate only when the screw’s geometry supports the next method. A fitted driver is the least invasive option; a rubber band or thin fabric can help when small gaps remain; extracting pliers are reserved for an exposed head. Once none of those tools can make secure contact, further hand-force usually removes metal rather than the screw, so protect the surrounding work and choose a more controlled advanced procedure.
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