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Grout is not just the colored filler between tiles. It affects how a tile assembly sheds water, handles movement, resists stains, cleans up, ages, and looks five years after installation. The right grout depends on the joint width, tile material, exposure, traffic, cleaning chemistry, budget, and the quality of the waterproofing or substrate behind the tile.
For most residential tile jobs, the practical choices are sanded cement grout, unsanded cement grout, high-performance cement grout, epoxy grout, or a premixed single-component grout. Urethane and acrylic resin grouts serve a similar premium residential and light-commercial lane. Furan grout is a specialty industrial product for severe chemical exposure.
On our job sites, we choose grout in this order: joint width first, tile sensitivity second, water and chemical exposure third, traffic fourth, maintenance expectations fifth, and color last. Color matters, but it should never override the conditions the grout has to survive.
The short version: use sanded cement grout for many basic floors with joints 1/8 in. and wider, unsanded cement grout for narrow joints and scratch-sensitive tile, high-performance cement grout when you want better color consistency and a wider use range, epoxy grout for stain-prone or wet heavy-use areas, premixed grout for controlled residential work where convenience and color consistency matter, urethane or acrylic resin grout for flexible premium applications, and furan grout for industrial chemical exposure.
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- Use to smoothly apply grout to floor and wall tile
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Grout Selection Starts With the Job Conditions
Before picking a brand or color, define the assembly. A kitchen backsplash, a rental shower, a commercial restroom, a quarry-tile kitchen floor, and a polished marble bathroom floor should not all receive the same grout just because the joints look similar.
Start with the grout joint. Traditional sanded cement grout is generally used at 1/8 in. and wider. Traditional unsanded cement grout is generally used from about 1/16 in. to 1/8 in. because it packs into narrow joints more easily and is less likely to scratch polished or delicate tile. That rule is still useful, but product data always wins. Newer fine-aggregate, high-performance cement grouts can often span from 1/16 in. to 3/4 in., depending on the manufacturer.
Next, look at the tile surface. Polished marble, glass, metal-faced tile, some handmade tile, and soft natural stone can be scratched or stained by the wrong grout. Textured porcelain and matte tile can trap grout pigment or resin haze. For those materials, we make a small mockup before grouting the whole installation, especially when the grout is high contrast.
Then study exposure. Cement grout can perform well in dry rooms, backsplashes, many floors, and some showers, but it is porous. Sealers improve stain and water resistance; they do not turn cement grout into waterproofing. Epoxy grout resists stains and moisture far better, but even epoxy grout does not replace a waterproof membrane, shower pan, or properly detailed drain assembly.
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The 7 Main Types of Grout
1. Sanded Cement Grout
Sanded cement grout is the traditional workhorse for tile floors, walls, and utility areas with wider joints. It contains Portland cement, graded sand, pigments, and often additives that improve handling or performance. The sand helps bulk up the grout so it can fill wider joints without excessive shrinkage.
Use sanded grout for many ceramic and porcelain tile floors with joints 1/8 in. and wider. It is common on 12 by 24 in. porcelain floors, basement tile, laundry rooms, mudrooms, and older installations with wider joints. It is usually one of the lowest-cost grout options, which matters on large square-footage floors.
The downside is surface risk. Sand can scratch polished marble, soft stone, glass tile, and some glossy or metal-faced tile. It can also lodge in highly textured tile if the installer does not clean correctly. Cement grout is also porous, so stains from cooking oil, coffee, dirt, soap residue, and mildew can settle in if the grout is not sealed or maintained.
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2. Unsanded Cement Grout
Unsanded cement grout, sometimes called non-sanded grout, is made without sand. It is smoother, which makes it useful for narrow joints and more delicate tile surfaces. Traditional unsanded grout is commonly used in joints from 1/16 in. to 1/8 in., but the exact range depends on the product.
Use unsanded grout for wall tile, narrow joints, polished stone, glass tile when approved by the tile and grout manufacturers, and vertical installations where a smoother grout is easier to pack. It is often used on subway tile backsplashes, shower walls with narrow joints, and decorative tile where sanded grout could mark the face.
The limitation is shrinkage. In a wide joint, unsanded grout can shrink, crack, or settle low because it does not have sand aggregate to stabilize the fill. If the joint is too wide, do not force unsanded grout into the job just because the tile surface is delicate. That is when a manufacturer-approved fine-aggregate or specialty grout may be the better answer.
Unsanded cement grout still behaves like cement grout. It normally needs sealing unless the specific product says otherwise, and it does not make a wet area waterproof.
3. High-Performance Polymer-Modified Cement Grout
High-performance cement grout is one of the most useful middle-ground products in modern tile work. These grouts are still cement-based, but they use improved cement chemistry, polymers, fine aggregates, and additives to improve color consistency, reduce efflorescence, increase strength, and cover a broader joint-width range.
This category is often specified under ANSI A118.7. Examples in the market include products positioned for broad joint ranges, fast setting, improved stain resistance, and no-sealer claims depending on the manufacturer. Many can be used from 1/16 in. to 1/2 in. or even wider, which simplifies jobs that combine field tile, accent tile, and slightly variable joints.
We like high-performance cement grout for residential floors, kitchen backsplashes, many bathroom floors, laundry rooms, rental turns, and projects where basic cement grout feels too weak but epoxy is more than the job needs. It is also useful when color consistency matters. Basic cement grout is sensitive to water ratio, mixing, slake time, washing technique, temperature, and cure conditions. Premium cement grout is not foolproof, but it is generally more forgiving.
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- Easy to clean by rinsing with hose or in clean water after each use
The installer still has to follow the bag. Adding extra water to make grout easier to spread is one of the fastest ways to create weak joints, blotchy color, powdery surfaces, and callbacks. With cement grout, careful measuring, mixing, slaking, remixing, packing, and washing matter.
4. Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is a two-part or multi-part resin system, usually made with epoxy resin, hardener, filler powder, and pigments. It is much more stain-resistant and less absorbent than cement grout. It also handles many cleaning chemicals and food soils better than cement products.
Use epoxy grout where grout failure would be expensive or where staining is predictable: showers, steam-resistant assemblies when approved, commercial restrooms, restaurant floors, food-service areas, healthcare spaces, pool environments, kitchen backsplashes behind heavy cooking, rental properties, and busy family bathrooms.
Epoxy costs more. Material cost is higher, labor is more demanding, the working window is shorter, and cleanup mistakes are less forgiving. If epoxy haze cures on textured tile, it can become a serious problem. Installers need clean water, proper pads, correct timing, and enough labor to wash before the resin locks up.
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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallEpoxy is worth the upgrade when maintenance matters. In a shower that sees daily use, a rental unit with uncertain cleaning habits, or a kitchen where oils and dyes hit the floor, the extra upfront cost can pay back through fewer stains, fewer sealing cycles, and fewer regrouting calls.
5. Premixed or Single-Component Grout
Premixed grout is sold ready to use. The main advantage is consistency. There is no powder-to-water ratio to get wrong, no slake time, and less variation from batch to batch. Many single-component grouts offer good stain resistance and stable color for residential kitchens and baths.
This category has become more formalized in standards, with organic premixed grouts covered under ANSI A118.19. That matters because premixed grout is no longer just a convenience product for small repairs. Some products are legitimate specification options when used inside their limits.
The limits are important. Premixed grouts can have longer cure times before water exposure. Some are not approved for submerged applications, steam showers, exterior conditions, or certain shower floors. Always check the product data sheet for immersion, steam, exterior, and cure-time restrictions.
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1Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors2Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute3Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsPremixed grout is a good fit for backsplashes, powder rooms, many bathroom walls, small residential floors, and repairs where color consistency and convenience matter. It is not automatically the right choice for a commercial kitchen, pool, steam room, or fast-turn occupied building unless the manufacturer specifically approves that use.
6. Urethane and Acrylic Resin Grout
Urethane and acrylic resin grouts are premium ready-to-use or resin-based grouts that offer improved flexibility, color consistency, and stain resistance compared with basic cement grout. They are often chosen for residential and light-commercial projects where the owner wants low maintenance without the installation difficulty of epoxy.
These grouts can be helpful with glass tile, mosaics, backsplashes, and areas where consistent color is a priority. They also reduce mixing variables because many are premixed. Like all resin-based products, they have specific cleanup, cure, and exposure requirements.
The biggest jobsite issue is cure time. Some urethane and acrylic grouts need extended dry time before regular water exposure. That can be a problem in a one-bathroom home, hotel room, or tenant-occupied unit where the shower or floor must return to service quickly. Read the cure schedule before promising an owner that the room can be used the next morning.
Urethane and acrylic resin grouts are often priced closer to epoxy than to standard cement grout. In Houston-area 2026 installed-cost signals, urethane grout has been reported around $3.50 to $5.25 per square foot, similar to epoxy. Treat that as a regional reference, not a national rule.
7. Furan and Other Chemical-Resistant Industrial Grout
Furan grout is a specialty chemical-resistant grout used in harsh industrial environments. It is not a normal homeowner product. It is typically specified for quarry tile, brick pavers, laboratories, dairies, meat-processing facilities, commercial kitchens, bottling plants, and areas exposed to acids, oils, solvents, or aggressive cleaning chemicals.
Furan systems are selected because ordinary cement grout and many residential resin grouts cannot tolerate the chemical load. They usually require experienced installers, special safety procedures, careful substrate preparation, and compatible tile. The finished installation is part of an industrial floor system, not just a color choice between tiles.
For commercial specs, write furan grout as a complete system: ANSI classification or manufacturer performance requirement, product name or approved equal, joint width range, tile type, cleaning chemistry, cure time before service, required ventilation, movement-joint sealant, and substrate requirements.
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Grout Comparison Table
| Grout type | Typical joint range | Best uses | Main strengths | Watchouts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sanded cement | Usually 1/8 in. and wider | Porcelain and ceramic floors, utility areas, wider joints | Low cost, familiar installation, good for wider joints | Can scratch delicate tile; porous; usually needs sealing |
| Unsanded cement | Usually 1/16 in. to 1/8 in. | Wall tile, narrow joints, polished stone, some glass tile | Smooth texture, easier in tight joints, less abrasive | Can shrink or crack in wide joints; porous |
| High-performance cement | Often 1/16 in. to 1/2 in. or more | Bathrooms, kitchens, floors, mixed joint widths | Better color consistency, broader use range, less maintenance than basic cement | Still requires correct mixing and washing |
| Epoxy | Product-specific | Showers, food-service, healthcare, rentals, heavy-use kitchens | Excellent stain and moisture resistance | Higher cost, shorter working time, cleanup risk |
| Premixed single-component | Product-specific | Backsplashes, bathroom walls, small residential floors | No mixing errors, consistent color, convenient repairs | Cure time and water-exposure limits vary |
| Urethane or acrylic resin | Product-specific | Premium residential, mosaics, glass tile, light commercial | Good color consistency and stain resistance | Longer cure times; higher material cost |
| Furan or industrial chemical-resistant | System-specific | Labs, dairies, meat processing, commercial kitchens, chemical areas | Severe chemical resistance | Specialized installation and safety requirements |
How to Choose the Right Grout for the Job
Match the grout to joint width
Joint width is the first filter. If the joint is 1/16 in., a coarse sanded grout may not pack properly. If the joint is 3/8 in., basic unsanded grout is usually the wrong material. Wide joints need body. Narrow joints need fine material that can be forced completely into the space.
For rectified porcelain with tight 1/16 in. joints, look at unsanded grout, high-performance fine-aggregate grout, or an approved premixed product. For handmade tile with irregular 3/16 in. to 1/4 in. joints, sanded or high-performance cement grout is often more appropriate. For mosaics, confirm both the joint range and the tile surface compatibility because mosaic sheets create a lot of grout area per square foot.
Protect scratch-sensitive tile
Polished marble, limestone, travertine, glass, metal tile, and glossy decorative tile deserve a test board. The test should use the actual tile, actual grout color, actual sealer if one is planned, and the same washing method intended for the job.
High-contrast grout needs extra caution. A black grout on white handmade tile can lodge in crazing, pits, bevels, and surface texture. A white grout on dark matte tile can leave visible haze. Once the entire wall is grouted, the cleanup problem is much larger and more expensive.
Separate waterproofing from grout
In showers and wet rooms, tile and grout are wear surfaces. The waterproofing belongs behind or below them. That may be a bonded waterproof membrane, a shower pan liner, a foam shower system, a liquid-applied membrane, or another approved assembly. The grout choice can improve stain resistance and cleanability, but it cannot rescue a missing or failed waterproofing system.
This distinction matters during inspections and repairs. The 2024 International Residential Code and plumbing code provisions address water-resistant wall finishes and shower receptors, but a pretty grout joint does not prove the assembly is waterproof. If a shower leaks into the ceiling below, replacing cement grout with epoxy may hide symptoms for a while, but it does not correct a failed pan, drain connection, curb, bench, niche, or membrane tie-in.
Use flexible sealant at movement joints
Grout is rigid. It should not be used where tile planes change direction or where tile meets another material that moves differently. Inside corners, shower wall-to-floor joints, tile-to-tub joints, countertop-to-backsplash joints, and perimeter joints normally need a flexible sealant, commonly an ASTM C920 sealant matched to the grout color.
Skipping movement joints is one of the most common ways a tile job cracks even when the grout itself was mixed correctly. A color-matched sealant makes the joint look continuous while still allowing movement.
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Consider cleaning chemistry
A family bathroom cleaned with mild products is different from a commercial kitchen cleaned with degreaser every night. Harsh cleaners, food acids, dyes, oils, sanitizers, and commercial cleaning schedules push the job toward epoxy or a true chemical-resistant system.
If the owner wants to use bleach, acidic cleaners, commercial degreasers, or disinfectants regularly, check grout compatibility before installation. Using the wrong cleaner can etch cement grout, discolor pigments, soften some resin products, or leave residue that attracts soil.
Think about life-cycle cost, not just material price
Grout material can look cheap by the square foot, but callbacks are expensive. HomeGuide has reported grout materials at roughly $0.02 to $1.00 per square foot depending on type, with cement products at the low end and epoxy or premium premixed products higher. Labor, preparation, cure time, and cleaning usually matter more than the bag or bucket price.
For a low-use backsplash, basic or high-performance cement grout may be the best value. For a rental shower, restaurant floor, or kitchen where stains are predictable, epoxy can be cheaper over the life of the installation because it reduces sealing, staining, and regrouting.
2026 Grout and Regrouting Cost Benchmarks
Installed grout pricing varies widely because grout is usually part of a larger tile installation. Regrouting is even more variable because removing old grout is slow, dusty work that depends on tile size, joint depth, tile condition, and access.
For 2026 planning, Homewyse places basic regrouting at about $15.84 to $34.75 per square foot. HomeAdvisor reports professional shower regrouting from $600 to $2,500, with an average around $1,500. HomeGuide reports tile regrouting labor at about $20 to $60 per hour for tile contractors, while handyman regrouting may run $50 to $80 per hour or $250 to $1,000 total depending on scope and region.
Regional installed grout pricing also shows the premium for resin products. A Houston-area 2026 pricing signal from CountBricks shows sanded grout around $1.75 to $2.50 per square foot, unsanded around $2.00 to $2.90, epoxy around $3.50 to $5.25, and urethane around $3.50 to $5.25. Those numbers are useful for comparison, but they are not a national bid sheet.
For full tile work, grout is only one line item. RUBI’s 2026 U.S. tile floor cost guide places complete tile floor projects at roughly $15 to $75 per square foot including materials and professional labor. Outdoor tile can add 15% to 20% because the assembly needs weather-rated mortars, drainage, movement detailing, and sometimes membranes.
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- Rubber float for tile with thick EVA sponge pad features very good cushioning performance. And gum rubber pad ensures smooth application.
- Float grout for tile with rounded and squared edge. Rounded edge is effective on compacting the joint, while squared edge is suitable for dealing with corners.
- Grout float grout tools with epoxy pad is widely used to spread grout,stucco, or concrete into the joints when grouting ceramic tile, glass tile on wall & floor.
| Cost item | 2026 benchmark | What changes the price |
|---|---|---|
| Basic regrouting | $15.84 to $34.75 per sq. ft. | Tile size, joint depth, removal difficulty, access, repairs |
| Professional shower regrouting | $600 to $2,500, average around $1,500 | Mosaics, failed grout, stains, waterproofing repairs, epoxy upgrade |
| Grout material only | About $0.02 to $1.00 per sq. ft. | Cement vs. epoxy, premixed, resin, specialty products |
| Tile contractor regrouting labor | About $20 to $60 per hour | Market, protection, removal method, complexity |
| Complete tile floor project | Roughly $15 to $75 per sq. ft. | Tile, substrate prep, layout, mortar, membrane, grout, labor |
The biggest cost drivers are mosaic density, old grout removal, shower conditions, substrate repair, waterproofing failures, premium grout selection, high-cost metro labor, site protection, night or weekend scheduling, and cure time before the room can return to service.
Best Grout Choices by Room and Application
Showers and tub surrounds
For showers, we usually start with the waterproofing assembly, not the grout. If the pan, membrane, corners, curb, and penetrations are correct, then grout selection becomes a durability and maintenance decision.
High-performance cement grout works for many residential showers when the owner understands cleaning and sealing requirements. Epoxy grout is the stronger choice for heavy-use showers, rental properties, light commercial showers, and homeowners who want better stain resistance. Premixed grout may work in some shower walls or floors, but only if the product data allows that exposure and cure schedule.
Do not use grout at inside corners or where tile meets the tub. Use a color-matched flexible sealant. If the shower has recurring cracked grout at the wall-to-floor joint, replacing it with more grout repeats the same failure.
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Kitchen backsplashes
Backsplashes see grease, steam, food dye, coffee, wine, and cleaning sprays. Cement grout is acceptable for many backsplashes, but high-performance cement, premixed, or epoxy grout can reduce staining behind ranges and sinks.
Tile texture matters. Handmade ceramic, zellige-style tile, crackle glazes, matte porcelain, and stone should be tested before using dark grout. Some crackle glazes require sealing before grouting so pigment does not lodge in the surface.
Bathroom floors and laundry rooms
Bathroom floors and laundry rooms get water, dirt, detergent, and foot traffic. High-performance cement grout is often the practical choice. Epoxy makes sense in rentals, mudrooms, pet wash areas, and floors that are cleaned aggressively.
If the floor has movement, loose tile, or cracked substrate, grout type will not fix it. Cracked grout often points to deflection, poor mortar coverage, missing movement joints, or substrate movement.
Commercial kitchens and food-service areas
Commercial kitchens are hard on grout. Hot water, grease, food acids, oils, dropped equipment, floor scrubbers, and degreasers can destroy basic cement grout. Epoxy grout is common, and severe chemical exposure may require furan or another chemical-resistant industrial system.
For commercial work, the grout should be specified with the tile, mortar, membrane, movement-joint layout, cleaning method, and cure time. A vague note that says grout by owner selection is not enough for a floor that has to pass health expectations and daily cleaning.
Exterior tile, pools, and freeze-thaw exposure
Exterior tile is assembly-sensitive. The tile, mortar, membrane, drainage, slope, expansion joints, and grout all have to work together. Outdoor tile can cost 15% to 20% more than comparable indoor work because the detailing is less forgiving.
Use products approved for exterior exposure, freeze-thaw cycles if applicable, UV exposure, and wet service. Pools and submerged conditions require manufacturer-approved systems. Do not assume a premixed grout or general bathroom grout can be used underwater.
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A careful homeowner can grout a small backsplash, repair a few clean joints, or grout a simple floor with standard ceramic or porcelain tile. DIY makes the most sense when the tile is durable, the joints are accessible, the grout type is forgiving, and the project can tolerate a slower pace.
DIY becomes risky when the tile is expensive, polished, textured, or handmade; when the grout is epoxy; when the area is a shower; when old grout must be removed; or when cracks may indicate substrate movement. Regrouting is especially deceptive. The visible work looks simple, but old grout must be removed deep enough for the new grout to bond. Smearing new grout over dirty, sealed, mold-contaminated, shallow, or loose grout usually fails.
Hire a professional when the job involves a shower pan, steam shower, commercial kitchen, pool, large-format tile, natural stone, glass tile, epoxy grout, chemical-resistant grout, or any sign of water damage. Also hire a pro when tile is loose, grout cracks keep returning, the subfloor feels soft, or stains suggest moisture behind the tile.
For occupied homes, planning matters. Cement grout may allow light use sooner than some resin products, but cure time depends on temperature, humidity, joint depth, and product chemistry. Epoxy can return some areas to service quickly, but only if the installer can finish cleanup correctly. Premixed and urethane products may need longer dry times before regular water exposure.
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Common Grout Mistakes We Avoid on Job Sites
The most common mistake is choosing grout by color alone. A clean white joint on a sample board does not mean that same grout belongs on a commercial bathroom floor or a heavily used shower. Function comes first.
Another common mistake is using unsanded grout in joints that are too wide. The result can be shrinkage, cracking, and low joints that collect soil. The opposite mistake is using sanded grout on polished marble, glass, or other delicate tile without testing. A small mockup can prevent a very expensive surface repair.
Adding extra water is another jobsite problem. Wet grout may spread easily, but it can cure weak, blotchy, dusty, or low. Washing too early or too aggressively can pull cement and pigment out of the joints, leaving pinholes and color variation.
In wet areas, the biggest misunderstanding is waterproofing. Grout is not the waterproof layer. Sealer is not the waterproof layer. Even epoxy grout is not the waterproof layer. If water management behind the tile is wrong, the grout choice cannot make the shower reliable.
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1Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitches2Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors3Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteMovement joints also get missed. Inside corners, perimeters, tub transitions, countertop transitions, and changes of plane need flexible sealant rather than rigid grout. When those joints are grouted, cracking is not a surprise; it is a predictable result.
How a Contractor Should Specify Grout
For a simple residential job, a clear grout note might include the product, color, joint width, sealing requirement, and cure time. For commercial work, the specification should be tighter.
A strong grout specification includes the ANSI classification, product name or approved equal, joint width range, tile material compatibility, color, cleaning method, cure time before traffic or water exposure, movement-joint sealant, substrate requirements, and waterproofing or membrane requirements where applicable.
For example, a commercial kitchen floor should not simply say epoxy grout. It should state the tile type, grout standard, approved product, joint width, chemical exposure assumptions, cleaning chemicals, cure time before service, slope and drain conditions, and movement-joint treatment. That level of detail prevents field substitutions that look acceptable on day one and fail under real service.
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Bottom Line
The best grout is the one that matches the tile assembly, not the one with the nicest color name. For basic floors and wide joints, sanded cement grout can still be a good value. For narrow joints and delicate tile, unsanded cement grout remains useful. For many modern residential jobs, high-performance cement grout gives the best balance of cost, durability, and installation practicality. For showers, rentals, food-service, healthcare, and heavy-use kitchens, epoxy often earns its higher price. Premixed, urethane, and acrylic resin grouts can be excellent when their cure and exposure limits fit the job. Furan belongs in the industrial lane where chemicals drive the specification.
Choose by joint width, tile sensitivity, water and chemical exposure, traffic, movement, maintenance tolerance, and budget. Then confirm the product data sheet before installation. That is how a grout choice moves from guesswork to a durable finished tile assembly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of grout is best for a shower?
For many residential showers, high-performance cement grout or epoxy grout is the best choice. Epoxy offers better stain and moisture resistance, especially in heavy-use showers and rentals. However, grout is not waterproofing; the shower still needs a properly built membrane, pan, drain, and movement joints.
Should I use sanded or unsanded grout?
Use sanded cement grout for many joints 1/8 in. and wider. Use unsanded cement grout for narrow joints, commonly 1/16 in. to 1/8 in., and for scratch-sensitive tile when approved. Always check the product data sheet because newer fine-aggregate grouts can cover wider ranges.
Is epoxy grout worth the extra cost?
Epoxy grout is worth it in stain-prone, wet, or heavy-use areas such as showers, commercial restrooms, food-service floors, rentals, and busy kitchens. It costs more and requires more careful installation, but it can reduce staining, sealing, maintenance, and future regrouting.
Does all grout need to be sealed?
Traditional cement grout usually benefits from sealing because it is porous. Some high-performance cement, epoxy, premixed, urethane, and acrylic grouts may not require sealing, depending on the manufacturer. Sealer improves stain resistance, but it does not make a shower waterproof.
How much does regrouting cost in 2026?
Homewyse’s May 2026 model places basic regrouting at about $15.84 to $34.75 per square foot. HomeAdvisor reports professional shower regrouting at $600 to $2,500, with an average around $1,500. Cost depends on tile size, grout removal, shower condition, repairs, grout type, and local labor.
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Can I put new grout over old grout?
Usually no. New grout needs enough clean joint depth to bond. Grouting over dirty, sealed, mold-contaminated, shallow, cracked, or loose old grout often fails. The old grout should be removed to the depth required by the grout manufacturer, then cleaned before new grout is installed.
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