Blind rivets and tinner’s rivets solve different fastening problems. A blind rivet is installed with a riveter from one side of the work; a tinner’s rivet is a solid rivet set with a hammer and rivet set, making it useful for thin sheet metal. Choose between them based on access, material and the tools you have—not on an assumed strength rating.
What a rivet does
A rivet is a permanent fastener: its shaft passes through a prepared hole, and its opposite end is deformed to hold the materials together. Unlike a fastener intended to be removed, a set rivet is not designed for routine disassembly.
This guide follows the two workshop types covered in Make: Workshop’s “Skill Builder: Know Your Rivets,” by Jordan Bunker, published June 24, 2015. It is an introduction to the methods, not a current product catalog or an engineering specification.
Choose a rivet by access, material and tool
| Type | Access needed | Typical use described | Setting tool |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blind rivet (often called a pop rivet) | One side of the work | Joining materials where the far side cannot be reached | Hand riveter |
| Tinner’s rivet | Access to support the head and strike the opposite end | Thin sheet metal | Rivet set and hammer |
The comparison is practical, not a performance ranking. The cited article gives no load ratings, joint-strength measurements, product dimensions or universal tool-compatibility guidance. Check the fastener maker’s specifications and the requirements of the job before relying on a riveted joint for a particular load or application.
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How blind rivets work
A blind rivet, also known as a pop rivet, has a tubular body and a setting mandrel assembled together. Insert them through the prepared hole, then use a riveter to grip and pull the mandrel into the body. That action expands the body on the far side of the material, so the installation can be made from the accessible side alone.
In the method described by Make:, the mandrel breaks off when the rivet is set. This is a feature of the described installation process, not a substitute for checking the finished joint or following the rivet manufacturer’s instructions.
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Basic installation sequence
- Prepare a hole suitable for the rivet and the materials being joined; use the rivet maker’s specifications for sizing.
- Insert the blind rivet through the materials with the mandrel accessible to the riveter.
- Fit the riveter over the mandrel and operate it to pull the mandrel and expand the rivet body.
- Confirm that the mandrel has broken off and inspect the joint. If the result is loose, damaged or otherwise unsuitable, do not assume it is secure.
A hand riveter is the straightforward tool choice for this method. The 2015 article also mentions pneumatic rivet guns and drill-mounted rivet-gun attachments for jobs involving hundreds of blind rivets, but it does not test or compare models. Consider those powered options only after confirming that the tool accepts the rivet type and size required for your work.
How to set a tinner’s rivet
Tinner’s rivets are solid rivets described for thin sheet metal; the article characterizes them as usually soft iron or steel with a flat head. The setting method needs access to both sides: the flat head is supported on a large, flat metal surface, such as an anvil, while the opposite end is peened into a second head.
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Basic installation sequence
- Place the rivet through the aligned materials.
- Rest its flat head against a firm, flat metal support, such as an anvil.
- Set a rivet set against the protruding shaft and strike it with a hammer, gradually peening the shaft into a flattened, rounded head.
- Inspect the completed joint and the surrounding material. The source does not provide dimensions or acceptance criteria, so use the fastener and project specifications where those matter.
Material matters
Where possible, match the rivet metal to the sheet metal being joined. For leather, Make: recommends aluminum, copper or brass rivets: moisture in leather can cause steel to rust. That guidance is specific to the materials named; it does not establish corrosion behavior or compatibility for every metal, environment or application.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.A roofing nail as a makeshift rivet
The source describes a roofing nail and ball-peen hammer as a makeshift approach when a rivet set or tinner’s rivets are unavailable. It is not presented as a tested replacement with established performance, so do not treat it as equivalent to a specified rivet for a critical or load-bearing joint.
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Method described in the article
- Cut the roofing nail to a length equal to 1.5 times its diameter.
- Place it through the materials and support the work with the nail head against the striking surface.
- Use the flat face of the hammer to begin setting and deforming the nail.
- Use the ball end in a circular pattern to shape the emerging head.
Because this improvisation has no stated performance criteria, reserve it for situations where a makeshift fastening method is appropriate and the consequences of failure are acceptable.
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