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Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →To resaw lumber, use a bandsaw to split thick, stable stock into thinner boards or veneer. Accurate results depend on a suitable sharp blade, a stable reference face and edge, guides set for your particular saw, and a feed rate that stays steady through the cut. The key to preventing a wandering cut is to test how the blade tracks in your setup, then either align a straight fence to that path or guide the stock along a marked line.
What resawing does—and what to expect
Resawing turns a thick board into thinner pieces. It can help you make matched panels, thin stock for frames or drawer fronts, or veneers from lumber you already have. Because the blade removes material, the pieces will not add up to the original board’s full thickness.
Before choosing a blade or planning a cut, check your bandsaw’s manual for its resaw capacity and the blade length, width, tension, and guarding requirements. These limits vary by machine; a blade recommendation that works on one saw may not fit or perform properly on another. Woodcraft’s resawing guide and its bandsaw setup guide both stress choosing and setting up equipment for the particular saw.
Prepare the stock before setting the fence
The saw needs a stable surface to register against. Prepare one flat face and one straight edge on the board, then use the flat face on the table and the straight edge against the fence. If the board rocks, twists, or has no dependable reference surface, correct that before resawing; otherwise, the cut can wander or the work can shift.
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Do not resaw a round log freehand. It can roll into the blade. Establish stable reference surfaces and a controlled way to hold the work first, or use another method appropriate to the material. Keep the stock free of loose objects and make sure it can pass the blade without binding.
Choose and set up a suitable blade
Use a sharp, clean blade that the saw can tension and guide correctly. For context, Woodcraft describes 3- or 4-TPI positive-hook blades and a typical width of 1/2–3/4 inch for a 14-inch saw, subject to what that machine accepts. WOOD Magazine separately recommends 1/2–3/4-inch skip-tooth or hook-tooth blades in its resaw guide. These are source-specific examples, not universal specifications: follow your saw manual for compatible blade dimensions and tension.
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Set the blade guides and thrust bearing according to the saw’s design and manual. Guide styles differ, so there is no single adjustment distance that applies to every machine. Fine Woodworking describes bringing its guides close enough to touch the blade intermittently and setting the side guides before the thrust bearing; use that as an example of a setup sequence, not a substitute for your own saw’s instructions. Check that the table is aligned and that the fence and workpiece sit squarely and securely.
Test blade drift before making the production cut
Blade drift is the direction a blade naturally tracks through stock. A fence set parallel to the blade may not match that path. To find the drift in your current setup, make a test cut in a flat, square scrap board while guiding it steadily without a fence. Once the cut is established, follow the kerf rather than forcing the board to track straight ahead. Fine Woodworking describes using this test cut to identify the blade’s natural path.
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Choose a guide method based on the cut and the consistency you need:
| Guide method | How it follows the cut | Thickness consistency | Adjustment and setup |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight fence aligned to drift | After the test cut, angle the fence to match the blade’s path. | Better suited to making consistent thin veneer, as described by Woodcraft. | Requires a drift test and fence adjustment; once set, it provides a repeatable reference. |
| Single-point guide | Steer the stock along a marked line as the cut proceeds. | Steering corrections can cause some thickness variation. | WOOD Magazine describes an adjustable guide for following a marked line; it can be steered during the cut. |
Neither method removes the need for steady control. With a fence, keep the stock registered against it without twisting. With a single-point guide, watch the marked line and make small corrections rather than forcing the blade sideways.
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Make the cut with steady feed and controlled pressure
- Set up the cut. Confirm the blade, guides, table, fence or guide, and guard are set as the machine manual requires. Position the stock so its reference face rests flat and its edge is controlled by the chosen guide.
- Start with a secure hold. Keep your hands out of the blade path and use a pushblock to hold the work against the fence where appropriate. Have a pushstick ready for the end of the cut; WOOD Magazine specifically advises using one for resawing.
- Feed steadily. Maintain consistent forward movement and appropriate pressure against the fence. Avoid forcing the stock through the blade: excessive pressure can deflect the blade and spoil the cut.
- Finish without reaching into the blade area. Use the push aid to guide the remaining stock through. Keep guards in place as directed by the manual, and do not assume a pushstick or other accessory makes an otherwise uncontrolled cut safe.
Stopping and restarting partway through can leave more pronounced blade marks and reduce usable material. Plan the cut and your stance so you can keep the feed controlled throughout. If the blade binds, the stock shifts, or the cut begins to go off line, stop the saw and address the cause rather than pushing harder.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Let the boards move, then mill them flat
Resawing can release internal stresses in the wood. A freshly cut board may cup or bow as it adjusts, so do not assume both faces will remain flat. Leave the pieces thicker and wider than their final dimensions so you have material for later flattening and cleanup. Fine Woodworking notes that air-dried and quartersawn stock tends to be more stable in its discussion, but those are tendencies, not guarantees.
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Allow pieces to rest or acclimate as appropriate for the wood and project before final surfacing. Once movement has settled enough for your work, flatten and thickness the boards to their final size. Very thin veneer can be smoothed with a drum sander, handplane, or cabinet scraper, then attached to a substrate when the project calls for it.
Common causes of a wandering or rough resaw
- The board has no reliable reference: flatten a face and straighten an edge before relying on a fence.
- The fence does not match blade drift: test-cut scrap and realign the fence, or use a guide that lets you steer to a marked line.
- The blade is dull, dirty, or unsuitable: clean or replace it, and confirm its dimensions and tension are appropriate for the saw.
- The feed is inconsistent or too forceful: keep the stock moving steadily and do not make the blade do more than it can handle.
- The stock moves after cutting: leave extra material for flattening rather than expecting a freshly resawn board to remain at final dimensions.
For model-specific setup and safety limits, the bandsaw manual takes precedence over general guidance. Fine Woodworking’s resawing guide, Woodcraft’s resawing basics, and WOOD Magazine’s bandsaw resawing guide provide additional descriptions of drift testing, blade choice, and cutting technique.
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