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BETTESWORTHConstruction
brick veneer

How to Re-Clad a Building With Brick Veneer: 9 Rules for a Durable Wall

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Re-cladding a tired building with brick veneer is more than attaching a new face to the old one. The veneer is non-load-bearing, but it is heavy, must be supported, tied to the existing structure, and detailed as a drained wall so rainwater can escape. A 2010 Building Design + Construction article, drawing on recommendations from Brick Industry Association technical expert Brian Trimble, sets out nine practical rules. They remain useful design questions, but their dimensions are historical guidance—not current code for every building or jurisdiction.

Use the rules below to frame the investigation and design, then have a qualified masonry or structural professional verify the assembly against current local requirements, wind and seismic loads, the existing foundation, and the actual condition of the building.

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What re-cladding with brick veneer involves

Brick veneer forms an exterior wythe that protects and changes the appearance of an existing wall without becoming the building’s primary load-bearing structure. “Non-load-bearing” does not mean self-supporting: the new masonry still imposes substantial weight on a footing, shelf angle, or another engineered support. It also creates a wall cavity that must collect incidental water and direct it back outside.

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The nine rules below come from the August 11, 2010 Building Design + Construction article. They describe the article’s recommendations and the questions a project team should answer. Building codes, standards, products, and construction conditions may have changed since then, so do not treat any stated spacing or dimension as a universal prescription.

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1. Design a real support for the veneer

Begin at the bottom of the wall. The article says the foundation should support at least two-thirds of the thickness of the new veneer. Where the existing foundation is wide enough, an extended footing can carry the masonry. If the foundation is too narrow, an anchored steel angle can provide a ledge, subject to structural design.

That choice is not merely a detailing preference. The support must transfer dead load and applicable lateral forces into a foundation and wall system that can carry them without excessive settlement, rotation, or corrosion-related deterioration. Open the design up at corners, steps in the foundation, porches, and additions; those locations often have different support conditions.

Support approach discussed in the 2010 article Where it fits the article’s discussion Important limitation
Extended footing Use where the foundation can provide the required ledge for the veneer. Existing footing capacity, width, condition, and current code still require project-specific verification.
Anchored steel angle Considered when the foundation is too narrow for direct bearing. The article says it is not recommended for multistory structures or veneers exceeding 12 feet.

The 12-foot limit is the article’s 2010 recommendation, not a blanket modern rule. A structural engineer should select the support, anchors, corrosion protection, and load path for the actual height and exposure.

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2. Establish one continuous water-resistive barrier

A brick face is not the water-resistive barrier. Wind-driven rain can pass through mortar joints and openings in the masonry, so the wall behind the cavity needs a continuous layer that sheds water toward flashings.

The article gives three investigation paths. If existing siding is intended to serve as the barrier, inspect it and repair defects. If the barrier is missing or unreliable, add a new water-resistive barrier in a way that ties it into windows, doors, corners, and penetrations. If siding is removed, inspect and repair the existing barrier and sheathing before installing the veneer. Existing sheathing alone should not be treated as the water-resistive barrier.

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  • Map every transition between old and new construction before demolition.
  • Repair damaged sheathing, framing, or deteriorated sill areas rather than covering them.
  • Plan how the barrier will lap with base flashing and opening flashings so water always drains outward.
  • Confirm that fasteners, vents, utility penetrations, and future attachments will not leave unsealed breaks.

Do not allow a partial patch behind a new brick face to become an invisible maintenance problem. The barrier is a system, not a roll of material applied only to the most accessible portions of the wall.

3. Detail the wall as a drainage wall

The article directs readers to Brick Industry Association Technical Notes 7, 7A, and 7B for drainage-wall details, materials, and workmanship. Those references are especially relevant at windows, bay windows, shelf conditions, corners, and changes in plane, where a simple uninterrupted wall section no longer describes the water path.

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Trimble’s warning is specific: “The most important details are around windows and other features such as bay windows. Flashing at the window heads and sills is critical for performance in this new veneer.” Treat every opening as a small roof edge. Water must be collected at the head, guided around the sides, and discharged at the sill without being trapped behind the frame or redirected into the interior.

Questions to resolve on drawings and in the field

  • Where does water entering the cavity go at each opening?
  • How do head and sill flashings connect to the water-resistive barrier?
  • What happens where a bay, sign band, belt course, or projecting trim interrupts the cavity?
  • Can masons install the specified laps, end dams, and sealant joints without relying on inaccessible work after the brick is laid?

A full-size opening mock-up can expose conflicts between window installation, flashing, anchors, insulation, and brick coursing before production work begins.

4. Keep a continuous drainage cavity

The article recommends at least 1 inch of air space behind the brick veneer. This cavity is the drainage path: water that reaches the back of the brick can run down to flashing and leave through weeps. Open weeps can also help ventilate the cavity and promote drying.

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Protect the cavity during construction. Mortar droppings, insulation, excess sealant, and debris can bridge the space and block drainage. Coordinate the cavity width with the selected ties, window projections, shelf angles, and any insulation or rainscreen components. A nominal dimension on a drawing is not enough if tolerances reduce the clear path at corners or around openings.

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The 1-inch recommendation belongs to the 2010 article. Current project documents should state the required cavity, tolerances, and compatible materials after the designer has checked the governing code and the complete wall assembly.

5. Select and space anchors for the actual cavity

The veneer must be secured to the existing construction throughout its height. Ties or anchors transfer out-of-plane loads while allowing the wall to drain and, where designed, accommodate movement. Their type, embedment, corrosion resistance, layout, and connection to framing or masonry all depend on the existing substrate and exposure.

For nonresidential construction, the article gives a maximum spacing recommendation of 32 inches horizontally or 18 inches vertically. Those figures describe what the 2010 source said; they are not verified current requirements for every occupancy or location. Wind, seismic demand, veneer height, substrate capacity, edge distances, and openings can require a different design.

Cavity width and anchor type must be chosen together. Trimble states: “Corrugated ties are limited to use with one inch of air space, so if the air space is wider than one inch, use a wire tie.” Do not substitute a corrugated tie simply because it is available when the designed cavity is wider. Check that each tie can be installed with the required embedment and without kinking, mortar obstruction, or contact that creates a water bridge.

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6. Flash the cavity and every interruption

Flashing is the collection and discharge layer at the bottom of the cavity and wherever the cavity is interrupted. The article recommends continuous flashing at the bottom of the air space and above grade, as well as flashing at opening heads and sills and at other interruptions.

Where flashing is discontinuous, the article describes an upturn at the back and end dams at the ends. These features keep collected water from running sideways into the wall. Flashing must connect to the water-resistive barrier, extend far enough toward the exterior to discharge, and remain protected from damage while the brick is installed.

Common interruption points

  • Window and door heads, sills, and jamb transitions.
  • Changes in roof or foundation elevation.
  • Parapets, shelf angles, relieving angles, and projecting bands.
  • Bay windows, recessed entries, and attached canopies.
  • Joints between the original building and additions.

Specify compatible flashing, sealants, and termination methods rather than assuming that a single metal strip can solve every condition. Photograph concealed flashing before it is covered and record its location for future repairs.

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7. Put weeps immediately above flashing

Weeps are the outlets that let water collected by cavity flashing escape through the veneer. The article recommends placing them in head joints immediately above flashing. Their effectiveness depends on an unobstructed connection between the cavity and the exterior; a weep that is filled with mortar is not a drainage outlet.

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For open head-joint or vent-type weeps, the article gives a maximum recommended spacing of 24 inches on center. For wick materials, it gives 16 inches on center. These are the article’s 2010 recommendations, not a substitute for current specifications or local requirements.

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Wick material 16 inches on center Install continuously into the cavity and protect the exposed end from mortar blockage.

Trimble summarizes the purpose plainly: “The use of weeps is not rocket science. Whatever gets the water out of the wall the quickest is the best approach.” During masonry inspections, check the first course above each flashing line before access disappears.

8. Leave clearance below the soffit

Brick and the existing building move differently, and the top of the veneer needs room to accommodate that movement. The article recommends at least three-quarters of an inch between the top course and the existing soffit. It says the gap should be bridged with molding and sealant, not packed solid with mortar.

Inspect the eave before work starts. If it is too short to protect the new veneer from concentrated roof runoff, the article says the eave may need to be extended. That is both a water-management and durability issue: repeated wetting at the top course can overwhelm otherwise sound flashing and joints.

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Coordinate the clearance with the intended sealant joint, trim profile, ventilation, and fire or smoke requirements that apply to the building. The gap should be deliberate, accessible for inspection, and shown in the details rather than left to field improvisation.

9. Design for differential movement

Brick and wood do not move in the same way. The article describes brick as growing while wood typically shrinks, creating differential movement that becomes more consequential as a wall gets taller or longer. The design may need movement joints, flexible anchorage, reinforcement, bond breaks, sealants, or other measures.

Pay particular attention around existing second-story windows and at long uninterrupted elevations. A rigid connection or an undersized sealant joint can transfer movement into cracking, bulging, broken masonry, or failed window transitions. Movement joints must be coordinated with coursing, flashing, ties, insulation, and the water-resistive barrier so they relieve strain without opening a path for water.

Trimble notes, “At higher elevations, the amount of movement adds up over the height of the wall. More space is needed around windows to allow brick’s natural growth to occur. Placing a larger sealant joint, say greater than a half inch, may be all that’s needed.” The statement is an example of the article’s guidance, not a universal joint size. The designer must calculate or otherwise establish the required allowance for the materials, dimensions, climate, and exposure.

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A practical sequence for planning the work

  1. Survey the existing building. Document foundation width and condition, framing or masonry substrates, siding layers, windows, soffits, eaves, additions, and signs of movement or water damage.
  2. Expose representative areas. Open test locations at a window, a corner, the base, the top, and any addition to verify the actual layers instead of relying on old drawings.
  3. Develop the load path. Have the structural designer establish veneer support, tie or anchor connections, and any reinforcement or movement provisions.
  4. Draw the water path. Show the water-resistive barrier, cavity, base and opening flashings, upturns, end dams, weeps, and discharge points in enlarged details.
  5. Coordinate products and tolerances. Confirm that the selected ties fit the cavity, flashing connects to the barrier, windows leave room for drainage, and sealants are compatible with adjacent materials.
  6. Build and inspect a mock-up. Include a window, a corner, a flashing line, weeps, anchors, and the top clearance so the crew can resolve sequencing and workmanship issues before full production.
  7. Use hold points during construction. Inspect support, barrier repairs, flashing, anchors, cavity cleanliness, weeps, and movement joints before each is concealed.
  8. Record concealed work. Keep photographs, product data, locations of flashings and movement joints, and maintenance instructions with the building records.

Failure modes to prevent

  • Brick bears on an inadequate ledge: stop and redesign the support rather than relying on mortar or a cosmetic trim piece.
  • The sheathing is assumed to be the barrier: remove or repair layers until a continuous, connected water-resistive system is documented.
  • Mortar blocks the cavity: improve installation controls and inspect the first courses above every flashing line.
  • Ties do not match the cavity: revise the tie selection or cavity detail; do not force a corrugated tie into a wider space.
  • Flashing ends without dams or turns: water can escape sideways into the wall; correct the termination before covering it.
  • Weeps are omitted or plugged: restore clear outlets directly above flashing.
  • The top course is hard-packed to the soffit: provide the designed clearance and sealant joint.
  • Long elevations lack movement accommodation: obtain a movement-joint and anchorage design before cracking appears.

How to use these rules responsibly

The nine recommendations are a disciplined checklist for investigating a re-cladding project: support the weight, keep a continuous barrier, drain the cavity, attach the veneer, flash and weep it, protect the top edge, and accommodate movement. The source is dated August 11, 2010 and does not establish the code, products, loads, or structural design for a particular building. Before construction, confirm current local requirements and have qualified professionals adapt every dimension, spacing, material, and connection to the building’s jurisdiction, height, occupancy, exposure, and existing condition.

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