Make a rabbet along a board’s edge, a dado across its grain, and a groove with its grain. A straight router bit and a suitable guide can cut all three; a compatible table saw with a dado head is another option. Choose the setup for the workpiece, cut location, and fit you need, then test the dimensions on scrap.
Know which joint you need
- Rabbet: An edge shoulder or recess, often used to receive a cabinet or case back or to join two parts.
- Dado: A channel across the grain, commonly used to house a shelf or divider.
- Groove: A channel parallel to the grain, often used for a drawer bottom or panel.
The joint’s name describes its location and direction, not the tool required. Routers, table saws, and hand tools can make these cuts; the right choice depends on your stock, dimensions, equipment, and need for repeatability. Woodcraft’s joint guide explains these configurations.
Choose a cutting method
| Method | Works well for | Check before cutting |
|---|---|---|
| Handheld router with straight bit and guide | Guided dadoes, grooves, and rabbets; flexible workpiece sizes and locations | Guide compatibility, clamping, cutter dimensions, and whether the cut is wider than one pass |
| Router table with fence | Edge rabbets and supported work; repeatable cuts along an edge | Workpiece support, fence setup, and safe feed direction |
| Table saw with dado head | Grooves and rabbets, and dadoes when the cut crosses the grain | That the saw accepts the dado head and has the correct insert and clearance; follow the saw and cutter makers’ limits |
| Hand tools | Work where manual cutting and fitting are appropriate | Tool choice and technique suited to the stock and required accuracy |
A router may be quicker to set up for a standard-sized cut than assembling and testing a dado stack, according to Woodcraft’s router-table guide. For repeated cuts, a router jig or a carefully established table-saw setup can help keep locations consistent. Woodcraft’s router-jig overview covers jig approaches.
How to cut with a router
1. Match the bit and guide to the work
Use a straight router bit with a shank, diameter, and cutting length suited to your router and the intended cut. There is no single correct bit size for every rabbet, dado, or groove. A straightedge guide or router edge guide helps keep a handheld router on its intended path; an edge guide is especially useful for a groove or a dado located parallel to a reference edge. See Fine Woodworking’s router-cutting guide and WoodWorkers Guild of America’s edge-guide demonstration.
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2. Lay out and secure the cut
Mark the cut’s position and intended width. For a handheld router, clamp the workpiece and guide so they cannot shift, and make sure the router base will remain supported throughout the cut. On a router table, set the fence and provide support for the stock as it passes the bit. For crosswise dadoes on a router table, an auxiliary fence or backer can help support and guide the work.
3. Set depth and test on scrap
Choose the depth and width for the joint and the actual mating piece, not a universal rule. Make a test cut in scrap of the same material, then measure the cut and the part it must fit. Nominal sheet-good thickness can differ from the sheet’s actual thickness, so fit the joint to the material in hand. Adjust the guide, fence, or cutter setting and test again if needed.
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4. Use controlled passes for wider cuts
If the required cut is wider than the router bit, do not assume it should be made in one pass. Use a guided setup and take multiple controlled passes, or use a suitable jig. Woodcraft’s router-table guidance also describes clamped stops for stopped grooves. When routing a stopped cut on a table, wait until the bit has stopped completely before removing the workpiece.
5. Feed safely
Do not climb-cut on a router table. Woodcraft warns: “Feeding the work with the cutter’s rotation (climb cutting) pushes the piece away from your guide, resulting in loss of control and a scalloped edge.” Feed direction and control matter because the cutter can pull or push the work unpredictably if used incorrectly. Follow the router maker’s instructions for the particular setup.
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How to cut with a table-saw dado head
A dado head can make grooves and rabbets when the width, depth, fence position, and work support are set for the cut. For a dado, the channel crosses the grain; the government woodworking manual describes setting the dado-head width and depth, positioning the fence, and guiding the stock as for ripping.
- Confirm compatibility. Check the table-saw manual to verify that the saw accepts the specific dado head. Confirm that the arbor, throat insert, and required clearance are suitable. Do not force a dado set onto a saw that is not rated for it.
- Set the cutter and fence. Set the dado-head width and depth for the intended joint, then position the fence according to the cut layout. Follow the saw and dado-head makers’ setup instructions.
- Support and control the stock. Keep the work supported and use appropriate guards, push devices, and work-holding. Keep hands clear of the cutter, and guide the stock as directed for the machine and cut.
- Test the fit. Cut scrap first and measure the channel and mating part. Adjust the setup to match actual stock thickness and the required fit.
Fine Woodworking’s dado-set safety guide discusses handling and use. The saw manual and cutter instructions govern compatibility and safe operation for your specific equipment.
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Common setup problems to prevent
- The shelf or panel is too loose or too tight: Measure the actual mating stock and test the cut on scrap before routing or sawing the finished part.
- The cut wanders or shifts: Secure the work and guide, keep the base or stock supported, and verify that the fence or jig cannot move.
- A wide router cut looks uneven: Use a controlled guided setup and multiple passes or a suitable jig rather than forcing a wide cut in one pass.
- The dado head will not fit the saw setup: Stop and check the saw’s stated dado-head capacity, insert, arbor, and clearance. Do not improvise around a compatibility limit.
- A stopped router-table workpiece is difficult to remove: Wait until the bit has stopped rotating fully before taking the work off the table.
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