It is possible to make a bowl on a table saw, but only with dedicated fixtures: Richard Tendick’s published project uses one jig to hollow the bowl and another to shape its outside. This is an unusual, setup-dependent operation—not a standard table-saw cut or a technique to improvise with loose round stock. The project’s safety assurance is the author’s, not an independent assessment of every saw, jig, or operator.
What the table-saw bowl method involves
In “The Amazing Table Saw Bowl,” published by Popular Woodworking on January 18, 2023, Richard Tendick describes making a bowl without a lathe. The process depends on two purpose-built fixtures: a hollowing jig that holds and rotates the blank over a blade projecting through a circular opening, and a coping jig that supports the bowl while the outside is shaped. Tendick’s article provides drawings, cut lists, and construction details for the fixtures.
This is a description of that particular project, not a universal set of settings. The available safety guidance does not independently validate Tendick’s fixtures or establish a manufacturer-approved setup for other saws. Do not transfer the dimensions or steps to a different saw, blade, jig, or workpiece without confirming that the arrangement is suitable and understood.
Project blank and equipment
Tendick specifies a dry, crack-free, knot-free blank made from an 8-by-8-inch turning blank 3 inches thick. He flattens both faces, then cuts the blank to a 7-5/8-inch circle. The article suggests using a circle-cutting jig for this preparation; that jig is separate from the fixtures used to hollow and shape the bowl.
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- Hollowing: Tendick specifies an 8-inch blade and the hollowing jig locked in the miter slot.
- Outside shaping: He specifies a 10-inch blade and the coping jig.
- Fixtures: The project calls for custom-built fixtures, including plywood or MDF, locking miter bars, and other hardware.
How the published sequence works
The following figures and sequence belong to Tendick’s project. They are not instructions for adapting the operation to another saw or fixture.
Hollow the bowl
With the blank secured in the hollowing jig, the article describes rotating it through a full revolution while raising the blade in increments of 1/16 inch. Tendick says to check the hollowing cut until it measures 6-1/2 inches across, then repeat from the opposite side until that cut measures 2-1/2 inches across. The article recommends connecting dust collection to the second fixture because sawdust can clog it.
Shape the outside
For the outside, the published project uses the coping jig and a 10-inch blade. Tendick describes making repeated full rotations, increasing the blade height by 1/16 inch at a time until the rim is 1/2 inch thick. Those dimensions describe this specific blank and jig, not a safe or suitable target for every setup.
Optional rim details
The article also describes optional finishing details: 36 evenly spaced kerfs around the rim and a rabbeting operation on a router table. These are additional operations, not requirements for making the bowl.
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Why the safety question matters
Tendick writes, “As long as you use my jigs and follow the simple instructions below to the letter, you’ll be perfectly fine.” That is the project author’s assurance. The safety sources cited here do not establish that the operation is safe for every operator, saw, or fixture.
The hazards are not theoretical. OSHA’s table-saw guidance describes blade-contact injuries, kickback when a blade catches and throws stock, and flying particles. It discusses suitable guards and anti-kickback measures, proper blade selection and maintenance, stock support, standing to the side, and eye and face protection. OSHA’s workplace guidance is not an evaluation or approval of this hobby project.
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In Popular Woodworking’s kickback guidance, Marc Adams identifies freehand cuts and stock that is not flat on the table—including round stock—as kickback causes. Binding, poor-quality stock, loss of control, and improper fixture or guard setup also matter. A jig plan does not by itself prove that a particular jig is correctly built, aligned, or safe to use.
WOOD magazine’s table-saw safety guidance advises using a fence or miter gauge rather than cutting freehand, inspecting safety devices, planning cuts, avoiding fatigue, keeping hands as far from the blade as practical, and wearing eye protection. Because Tendick’s fixture-based operation differs from ordinary ripping or crosscutting, those general precautions are not a complete evaluation of its setup.
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Decide whether this method is appropriate for you
Before attempting the project, consider whether you can build and align both fixtures accurately, whether they are compatible with your saw and its instructions, and whether you understand how the stock is restrained and controlled throughout each cut. Do not hold an unrestrained round blank against a running blade, and do not assume eye protection or a jig eliminates kickback or blade-contact risk.
- Use only sound, dry stock of the kind specified for the project; Tendick warns against cracks and knots.
- Inspect the saw’s guards and safety devices and consult the saw maker’s instructions for the intended operation.
- Stop if the fixture, stock, or cut is unstable, binds, or behaves unexpectedly. Do not compensate by improvising around a running blade.
- Wear appropriate eye and face protection for flying particles, while recognizing that it does not prevent kickback or blade contact.
If you lack a lathe, Tendick presents his method as an alternative that relies on a table saw and custom fixtures. It also requires the work of building and aligning those fixtures and assessing the saw setup. The available sources do not establish that this approach is safer, faster, or better than turning a bowl on a lathe.
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