You can turn an old desktop PC into a bartop arcade by fitting a compatible monitor, arcade controls, audio and cooling into a compact cabinet. Start by measuring the hardware you actually have, then design the cabinet around it; monitor size, aspect ratio, connectors and control-panel clearance determine the build more than any one set of standard dimensions.
Plan around your PC, monitor and available space
Before cutting wood, inventory the donor computer, display, speakers and the space where the cabinet will sit. Check the computer’s video output against the monitor’s input, and measure the screen and its mounting points. Also consider the computer’s footprint, cable access, airflow and how you will reach components for maintenance.
There is no single required display size or connector. David Beauchamp’s 2015 Make: build used a used 4:3 VGA monitor, while Microsoft’s cabinet guide illustrates a 22-inch HDMI monitor. Those examples show different approaches, not universal dimensions or a ranking. Choose based on physical fit, aspect ratio, available video connections and mounting access. Beauchamp’s article links dimensioned plywood blueprints and says its measurements are in millimeters except for holes; treat them as a reference for that build, not a substitute for measuring your own parts.
Choose controls that fit the panel and the PC
Arcade joysticks and buttons need an interface that sends their inputs to the computer. In Beauchamp’s build, the switches connect to a two-player USB adapter, which then connects to the PC. Software can assign or reassign the inputs, but the physical layout and wiring still need to match the controls you install.
#1 Best Overall
- Dimensions (approx.): Interior Width: 20.75", Exterior Width: 21.75”, Exterior Height: 21”, Exterior Depth: 18”
- Available in HAPP (HAPP joysticks and 28mm buttons) or Sanwa (Sanwa Style joystick and 24mm start/coin and 30mm action buttons) Style
When selecting a kit or assembling controls separately, check these details before ordering:
- Player count and layout: decide whether the cabinet is for one or two players and how many buttons each player needs.
- Included wiring and interface: confirm whether the kit includes a USB encoder and the required cables.
- PC compatibility: verify that the interface works with the operating system you plan to use.
- Panel and underside clearance: measure the joystick body and switches below the panel, not just the visible button tops.
The Make: project documents this category of hardware, but its named adapter and historical product listings are not current endorsements. Confirm present-day compatibility and dimensions for any parts you choose.
Gather materials and tools
The documented builds use plywood for the cabinet, with Beauchamp adding pine reinforcement. His project uses a jigsaw, drill and bits; Microsoft’s guide likewise describes a woodworking build and warns that power tools are required. Match the material thickness and fasteners to your design and the weight of the installed equipment rather than assuming another cabinet’s dimensions will suit your parts.
- Measured plywood panels and reinforcement lumber
- Jigsaw, drill and suitable bits
- Arcade joysticks, buttons and a compatible USB control interface
- Monitor and mounting hardware suited to its size and attachment points
- Speakers and a plan for their placement
- Fans or other appropriate ventilation provisions, based on the enclosed computer’s needs
Microsoft advises following power-tool safety procedures or asking a professional for help. Be cautious around both cutting operations and powered electronics: the Make: build routes mains power inside the cabinet and mounts PC components there. Do not modify wiring or enclose powered equipment unless you understand the hazards and can do the work safely.
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Rank #3
- Dimensions (approx.): Interior Width: 20.75", Exterior Width: 21.75”, Exterior Height: 21”, Exterior Depth: 18”
- Available in HAPP (HAPP joysticks and 28mm buttons), Sanwa (Sanwa Style joystick and 24mm start/coin and 30mm action buttons) Style, or BLANK with no joystick or button holes
Build the cabinet and test the control layout
- Set the cabinet dimensions from measured hardware. Allow room for the monitor, computer, speakers, controls, cables and airflow. Determine how the display will be mounted and which panels need to open for service.
- Mark and cut the panels. Use your chosen plan as a starting point, adapting openings and dimensions to your monitor and available space. Cut the cabinet panels and add reinforcement where the structure needs it.
- Mock up the control panel before drilling. Place the actual joysticks and buttons on the panel, check spacing and hand reach, then inspect the underside for joystick-body clearance. Beauchamp reports that a layout miscalculation required a small wall modification; a dry fit can catch this kind of conflict before it becomes rework.
- Install and wire the controls. Fit the buttons and joysticks, connect their switches to the USB interface according to that interface’s instructions, and connect the adapter to the PC.
- Mount the display, computer and audio. Secure the components so they cannot shift, keep cables accessible and preserve the access needed to maintain them. Beauchamp used hinged control and back panels; an equivalent serviceable arrangement can make work inside a compact cabinet easier.
- Plan and test airflow. Beauchamp fitted separate intake and exhaust fans. That arrangement belongs to his cabinet; check the actual PC’s heat and airflow requirements before deciding where vents or fans should go.
Install software that the donor PC can run
After the hardware is installed, use an operating system and emulator versions that support the donor computer. The Make: article is a 2015 account of a setup using Windows XP, GameEx and named emulators; those are historical details, not current recommendations or a compatibility guarantee. Microsoft’s cabinet guide describes options for either Windows or Raspberry Pi, but a repurposed desktop should be planned around its own hardware and supported software.
Once the chosen system and emulator software are installed, test each control input and confirm that the display and audio work as intended. A front end is optional; the Make: author used GameEx in the historical build.
Rank #4
- Bartop Arcade Cabinet for Pandora's Box
What the documented build cost and took
Beauchamp’s Make: page, published May 1, 2015 (and displaying October 4, 2022), lists a required time of 3–4 days. Separately, in the project conclusion, he says he spent about a week building the cabinet over a few hours per day, then a similar amount of time configuring software. These are distinct statements from one maker’s project, not a reliable schedule for every build.
He reported an approximate total of $285 for his specific project, including an already-owned computer and the monitor, controls and power strip at the prices he paid then. That historical figure is not a current budget estimate. The sources do not establish a representative current cost for building a bartop arcade.
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- Dimensions (approx.): Interior Width: 20.75", Exterior Width: 21.75”, Exterior Height: 54”, Exterior Depth: 18”
- If your Pandora's box is shaped like the one in the product image, it will work with this kit. If you have questions about yours, please send us a pic for confirmation
Sources and design references
- David Beauchamp, “Bartop Video Arcade from an Old PC,” Make: — project steps, materials, controls, ventilation, software and the author’s time and cost statements.
- “MakeCode Arcade Wooden Cabinet,” Microsoft MakeCode Arcade — cabinet example, monitor and control details, PC or Raspberry Pi options, and tool-safety warning.
- “Bartop Arcade Cabinet – Digital Plans,” I Like To Make Stuff — an alternative paid-plan reference describing a 17-inch 4:3 display and half-inch plywood design.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
