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The most reliable way to grow cilantro is to direct-sow the seed in cool weather, keep the soil evenly moist, and sow small batches every few weeks. Cilantro grows quickly but has a short leafy season, especially when temperatures rise. Succession sowing is usually more effective than trying to keep one plant productive all year.
In American cooking, cilantro usually means the fresh leaves and tender stems of Coriandrum sativum. The mature dried seeds are generally called coriander. The same annual herb produces both.
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Cilantro and coriander are the same plant
Cilantro and coriander come from the annual herb Coriandrum sativum. The leaves, tender stems, flowers, roots, and seeds are edible, although fresh leaves and mature seeds are the parts most often harvested.
If you want fresh cilantro for salsa, curries, sauces, and salads, harvest before the plant flowers. If you want coriander seed, allow the plant to flower and form mature seed heads. You can grow both crops from the same planting, but the plant will naturally stop prioritizing leafy growth once it begins flowering.
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Quick-start growing plan
- Choose the season: Sow in spring or fall, when conditions are cool. In hot climates, fall and winter may be better seasons than late spring or summer.
- Direct-sow the seed: Cilantro forms a taproot and can be slow to recover from transplanting.
- Prepare the soil: Use loose, fertile, well-drained soil amended with compost if needed. A pH of approximately 6.0 to 7.5 is suitable.
- Sow 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep: Keep the seedbed evenly moist until seedlings emerge, which commonly takes one to three weeks.
- Thin the seedlings: Leave about 2 to 4 inches between plants grown mainly for leaves, or 8 to 10 inches for plants being grown for coriander seed.
- Repeat the sowing: Plant another small batch every one to four weeks while temperatures remain suitable.
- Harvest often: Pick outer leaves while the plant is young, and replace plants that begin to bolt rather than expecting them to remain leafy indefinitely.
For a first planting, choose cilantro seeds sold for planting rather than assuming that culinary coriander seed will germinate reliably. Planting seed is selected, packaged, and labeled for propagation; a jar of cooking spice is not automatically an equivalent substitute.
Where to plant cilantro
Light and temperature
Cilantro grows best in full sun during cool spring and fall weather. In hot weather, light shade or afternoon shade can slow the transition to flowering. Heat, dry conditions, increasing day length, and plant maturity all encourage bolting. Temperatures above roughly 80°F are commonly associated with faster flowering and seed production.
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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallDo not interpret a plant’s early flowering as proof that it was cared for incorrectly. Bolting is the normal end-of-season stage for cilantro. Good growing conditions can delay it, but they cannot prevent it permanently during sustained heat.
Soil
Use soil that is loose, fertile, and well drained. Compost can improve both structure and fertility, particularly in compacted or sandy soil. Avoid planting in a place that stays saturated after watering or rain. Waterlogged soil can contribute to root problems and seedling disease.
Although cilantro does not need heavily enriched soil, it should not be starved. Excessive fertilizer, especially nitrogen, can create lush growth with weaker flavor. If plants grow poorly or a soil test indicates a deficiency, apply one or two light feedings during the season according to the fertilizer label.
How to sow cilantro seeds
Direct sowing is usually best
Make shallow furrows or individual holes about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Sow the seeds, cover them lightly, and water gently so they are not displaced. Keep the surface consistently moist while the seeds germinate, but do not leave it muddy or saturated.
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Germination often takes one to three weeks. Seeds may take longer in cool conditions, so avoid digging them up too soon. Poor emergence is more often caused by seed being buried too deeply, a dry seedbed, compacted soil, or a crusted surface than by a need for aggressive fertilizing.
Spacing
| Purpose | Spacing after thinning | Practical approach |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh leaves | About 2–4 inches apart | Thin crowded seedlings, or harvest some young plants as microgreens. |
| Coriander seed | About 8–10 inches apart | Give plants more room to branch and produce seed heads. |
| Larger rows | Rows about 15 inches apart | Useful for a more spacious garden planting or easier maintenance. |
For the best continuous supply, sow a small row or container every one to four weeks instead of planting one large batch. The exact interval depends on local temperature, variety, and how much cilantro your household uses.
Growing cilantro in containers
Cilantro is well suited to pots, balconies, patios, and small gardens because it has relatively shallow roots. However, it also develops a taproot, so use a container deep enough to support the roots rather than a very shallow tray.
- Choose a pot with one or more drainage holes.
- Fill it with a loose, well-draining potting mix rather than heavy garden soil.
- Sow several seeds directly in the final container to avoid transplant shock.
- Thin seedlings to about 2 to 4 inches apart for leaf production.
- Place the pot in strong light, but protect it from extreme afternoon heat.
- Water when the surface begins to dry, adjusting for sun, wind, temperature, and pot size.
A herb container with drainage is more important than a decorative pot without an outlet. Do not let the container sit in a saucer of standing water for extended periods.
Growing cilantro indoors
Indoor cilantro needs strong light and should be treated as a short-term crop. A bright, sunny window may be sufficient, but a supplemental LED grow light for herbs can provide more consistent growth when the window is dim or receives little direct light.
When using artificial lighting, approximately 12 to 16 hours of supplemental light per day is commonly recommended for indoor herbs. Rotate a windowsill pot periodically so plants do not lean toward one direction.
Keep indoor plants away from prolonged heat, very low light, and excessive humidity. Pale, stretched seedlings usually need more light. Weak plants with persistently wet soil may have root problems. Improve drainage and airflow, allow the surface to begin drying between waterings, and sow a new batch rather than trying to preserve an old, stressed plant indefinitely.
Indoor growing does not eliminate bolting. Cilantro naturally moves toward flowering as it matures, and heat or insufficient light can make the crop less productive. Sow new seeds periodically for a dependable supply.
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How to delay cilantro from bolting
Bolting is the plant’s transition from leafy growth to flowering and seed production. A bolting plant sends up a taller, thinner flower stalk; its leaves may become smaller, less tender, or more bitter.
Use several of these measures together:
- Sow at the right time: Choose cool spring or fall weather where local conditions allow. There is no universal planting calendar because frost dates and summer heat vary by location.
- Provide afternoon shade: Light shade can reduce heat stress as temperatures rise.
- Maintain even moisture: Drought stress and irregular watering can speed flowering. Water when the soil begins to dry, but do not keep it constantly wet.
- Mulch lightly: Mulch helps moderate soil temperature, reduce moisture swings, and suppress weeds. Keep it from pressing directly against the stems.
- Choose a slow-bolting type: Cultivars marketed as ‘Slow Bolt,’ ‘Santo,’ ‘Leisure,’ ‘Calypso,’ ‘Marino,’ or ‘Long Standing’ may extend the leafy harvest. Their performance still varies by climate, planting date, and heat exposure; none is guaranteed to resist bolting under sustained hot conditions.
- Succession-sow: Start a replacement planting every few weeks rather than depending on one crop.
Pinching flower stems may extend the leafy harvest briefly, but it will not permanently prevent bolting. Once a plant is strongly committed to flowering, replacing it with a new sowing is usually more productive.
Gardeners who want both leaves and seed can allow some plants to bolt while replacing others for fresh leaves. Cilantro flowers also provide food for beneficial insects, and mature seeds may drop and produce volunteer seedlings in the next season.
For gardeners whose priority is fresh leaves, a slow-bolting cilantro variety is a reasonable experiment, not a promise of season-long production.
Watering, feeding, and general care
Water
Water regularly while seedlings establish. After that, water whenever the soil begins to dry, taking account of rainfall and local conditions. Consistent moisture supports leaf production and reduces stress, but constantly wet soil can cause damping-off, root problems, or wilt.
Mulch can make watering easier by slowing evaporation and reducing temperature fluctuations. Container plants generally dry out faster than plants in the ground, particularly in hot, windy weather, so check them more often.
Fertilizer
Cilantro usually needs only light feeding in reasonably fertile soil. Overfertilizing, especially with nitrogen, can encourage excessive soft growth and may reduce the herb’s characteristic flavor. If growth is weak, apply a mild fertilizer according to the label rather than making repeated heavy applications.
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Airflow and sanitation
Give plants enough space for air to move around them. Avoid overhead irrigation when possible, especially late in the day. Remove badly infected plants and plant debris, and use clean or reliable seed. If a disease repeatedly affects the same area, rotate the crop to another location.
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Cilantro is relatively trouble-free, but several problems can occur:
| Symptom or problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Plants flower very early | Heat, drought stress, increasing day length, maturity, or an unsuitable sowing date | Use cooler-season sowings, afternoon shade, mulch, even moisture, succession planting, and possibly a slow-bolting cultivar. |
| Seeds do not emerge | Seed was too deep, soil dried out, or the surface is compacted | Wait up to three weeks, keep the surface evenly moist, and sow shallowly in loose soil. |
| Seedlings collapse at the soil line | Damping-off or seedling rot caused by wet, poorly ventilated conditions | Improve drainage and airflow, avoid overwatering, and rotate the planting location if the problem recurs. |
| Leaves have spots | Bacterial or fungal leaf disease, often encouraged by wet foliage and poor airflow | Avoid overhead watering, improve spacing and airflow, remove infected material, and start with reliable seed. |
| White or gray coating appears on leaves | Mildew, often associated with humidity and limited air movement | Improve airflow, avoid wetting the leaves, and remove badly affected growth. |
| Leaves are curled or insects are visible | Aphids, leafhoppers, or whiteflies | Inspect plants regularly, wash off small infestations where practical, remove badly affected growth, and use any pesticide only as directed on its label. |
| Indoor plants are pale and leggy | Insufficient light or an aging plant | Increase light, rotate the pot, and sow a replacement batch. |
How to harvest cilantro leaves
Begin harvesting individual outer leaves when plants are approximately 4 to 6 inches tall. Cut or pinch the stems rather than stripping every leaf from the center. Leaving the central growing points gives the plant a better chance to produce more foliage.
Harvest frequently and check the plants often during warm weather, because cilantro can bolt quickly. You can also harvest the entire plant when it reaches a useful size, particularly when a replacement sowing is ready.
Clean herb scissors or small pruning snips make it easy to cut stems without pulling up neighboring seedlings, although a clean pair of household scissors also works.
Storing fresh cilantro
Cilantro has the best flavor soon after harvest. For brief storage, stand the cut stems upright in a small amount of water in the refrigerator and cover them loosely with a plastic bag. Another option is to keep the unwashed stems in an airtight container and wash the leaves immediately before use.
For longer storage, cilantro can be frozen for use in cooked dishes. Drying usually sacrifices more of the herb’s fresh flavor than freezing, so dried cilantro is generally not a close substitute for fresh leaves.
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How to harvest coriander seed
To harvest coriander, allow the plant to flower and form seed heads. Wait until most heads have turned brown and the seeds appear mature. Cutting too early can produce immature seed with less developed flavor.
- Cut the seed heads with several inches of stem. Harvesting in the morning, before dew has fully dried, may reduce seed shatter.
- Place the heads in a paper bag.
- Leave the bag in a cool, dry location until the heads finish drying.
- Shake or rub the dry heads to release the seeds.
- Remove excess plant material and store the seeds in a labeled, airtight container.
Use mature coriander seed whole, ground, or toasted shortly before cooking. Label the container with the harvest date and variety if known. A few plants can be left standing for beneficial insects or allowed to drop seed for possible volunteer plants the following season.
Simple cilantro-growing checklist
- Cool spring or fall conditions, or shade protection in warmer weather
- Full sun in cool weather; light or afternoon shade during heat
- Loose, well-drained soil with a suitable pH of about 6.0–7.5
- Reliable planting seed, sown directly 1/4–1/2 inch deep
- Even moisture during germination and establishment
- 2–4 inches between plants for leaves; 8–10 inches for seed production
- Succession sowings every one to four weeks
- Light feeding only when soil fertility or plant growth indicates it is needed
- Containers with drainage holes and a well-draining mix
- Strong indoor light, with approximately 12–16 hours of supplemental light if needed
- Replacement sowings when plants bolt rather than relying on pinching alone
- A paper bag and airtight labeled container for coriander seed
Frequently Asked Questions
Can cilantro grow back after cutting?
Yes, cilantro may regrow when outer stems are harvested and the central growing points are left intact. However, it is a short-lived annual herb. Once it is strongly bolting, replacing it with a new sowing is usually more productive.
Why does my cilantro keep bolting?
Heat, dry soil, increasing day length, and plant maturity all encourage bolting. Sow during cooler weather, provide afternoon shade, maintain even moisture, mulch the soil, try a slow-bolting cultivar, and make successive sowings.
Can I grow cilantro from coriander seeds bought for cooking?
Not necessarily. Some culinary coriander seeds may germinate, but they are not automatically tested or packaged as planting seed. For dependable results, buy seed sold for growing cilantro or coriander.
Should cilantro be grown in full sun or shade?
Full sun is best during cool spring and fall weather. In hot conditions, light or afternoon shade can help slow bolting, although too little light may produce weak indoor or container growth.
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Cilantro commonly germinates in one to three weeks, depending on temperature and moisture. Keep the seedbed evenly moist and avoid burying the seed deeper than about 1/2 inch.
The Bottom Line
Grow cilantro as a succession crop, not as a permanent herb plant: direct-sow shallowly in cool weather, provide loose soil and consistent moisture, protect it from intense heat, and start replacement sowings every few weeks. Harvest leaves early, or let selected plants flower and dry their seed for coriander.
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