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A drooping door is usually fixed at the hinges, not by moving the strike plate. Tighten the existing hinge screws first; if the top hinge is loose, replace one jamb-side screw with a 3-inch wood screw that reaches solid framing. Repair any stripped wood with a glued plug, replace bent or worn hinges, and adjust the strike plate only after the door hangs squarely.
This guide covers diagnosis, the repair sequence, tools, common failure modes, and the point at which frame damage calls for a professional. The method applies primarily to conventional hinged interior or exterior wood doors; severe frame movement or a badly warped slab requires a different assessment.
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A dropped door normally shows an uneven reveal (the gap between the slab and its frame), a latch that sits below the strike opening, or scraping at the floor. Close the door slowly and inspect all four edges before removing hardware. A gap that narrows at the latch-side top is a strong sign that the hinge side has sagged and pushed the latch downward.
Open the door and look at every hinge. A screw that turns without becoming tight indicates a stripped hole. Check the hinge leaves for bending and the knuckles (the interlocking barrels around the hinge pin) for wear or excessive side-to-side play. Worn knuckles can let the slab sag even when the screws are tight, throwing the lock and strike out of alignment, as This Old House explains.
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Other conditions can imitate hinge sag. Humidity can warp a wood door, the frame can move, and an incorrectly installed door can be out of square. Home Depot’s overview of interior-door problems lists loose hinges, humidity-related warping, frame movement, and track issues among common causes of poor operation. A careful reveal check helps separate a hinge problem from those conditions.
What should I gather before starting?
Have the following ready so the door remains supported while you work:
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- A screwdriver or drill/driver with a bit that fits the existing hinge screws.
- Replacement 3-inch wood screws for the jamb-side screw positions on the top hinge.
- A doorstop, wedge, or helper to support the slab while screws are removed.
- A replacement butt hinge matching the existing type and size if the metal is bent or worn.
- Hardwood or softwood stock for a repair plug, wood glue, a drill, and a saw or chisel if a screw hole is stripped.
- A tape measure, pencil, and flashlight for checking the reveal and locating sound framing.
Use screws whose heads sit correctly in the hinge’s countersunk holes. A head that protrudes can bind against the hinge leaf; a mismatched head can prevent the hinge from sitting flat.
What safety and setup steps matter?
Keep the door supported whenever a hinge screw is loosened. A heavy slab can shift suddenly and pinch fingers or damage the jamb. Work with the door open far enough to reach the hinge, but not so far that its weight pulls hard against the remaining screws. Remove and replace one screw at a time during the initial adjustments so the hinge stays located.
Before changing anything, mark the current hinge and strike positions with a pencil and photograph the hardware. These reference marks make it easier to undo an unsuccessful adjustment. If the door is unusually heavy, glazed, or an exterior fire-rated assembly, get assistance rather than trying to hold it while hardware is removed.
How do I tighten the existing hinge screws?
Tightening screws is the fastest repair when the holes still hold. Start at the top hinge because a small change there can move the latch noticeably.
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- Open the door and place a wedge under the latch-side edge so the slab’s weight is supported.
- Check each screw in the top hinge, then the middle and bottom hinges. Turn a screw clockwise until the head is seated and the hinge leaf is flat against the jamb or door.
- Stop when the screw is snug. Overdriving can crush the wood fibers or strip a previously sound hole.
- Close the door slowly and inspect the reveal and latch. If the door improved, repeat the check on the remaining hinges.
The Michigan Weatherization Field Guide lists tightening or driving a long screw through the hinge among standard solutions for door sag. Recheck after each screw rather than tightening every fastener blindly; the change at one hinge may be all that is needed.
Will a longer screw fix a loose top hinge?
Often, yes—provided the jamb has sound framing behind it. A long screw through the top hinge transfers the hinge load from weak surface wood into the framing. Home Depot recommends 3-inch wood screws for stripped hinge screws, and both the Michigan field guide and SOSS’s technical guidance describe a three-inch top-hinge adjustment approach.
- Support the door and close it enough that the hinge is not under a hard twisting load.
- On the jamb side of the top hinge, remove one middle screw. Working one screw at a time keeps the hinge aligned.
- Replace it with a 3-inch wood screw of compatible head style. Drive it straight through the hinge leaf and jamb into solid framing.
- Stop when the hinge leaf is firmly seated. Do not force the screw after it bottoms out; crushing the jamb can pull the hinge out of alignment.
- Close the door and inspect the reveal. If the latch rises into the strike opening and the gaps become more even, the reinforcement worked.
- If alignment still needs a small correction, replace another top-hinge jamb screw using the same procedure, then retest.
A long screw is reinforcement, not a cure for a void behind the jamb. If it spins freely, hits empty space, or cannot draw the hinge tight, remove it and repair the wood rather than repeatedly installing larger screws.
How do I repair a stripped hinge-screw hole?
A stripped hole needs solid wood before a screw can hold. Fine Homebuilding recommends filling the jamb hole with a glued wood plug, allowing the glue to set, and then reinstalling the screw.
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- Support the door and remove the loose screw. If the hinge leaf is in the way, remove only the affected fastener or, when necessary, the hinge while keeping the door supported.
- Clean loose fibers from the hole. Enlarge it only enough to accept a straight-grained wood plug; avoid removing more jamb material than necessary.
- Coat the plug with wood glue and tap it flush with the jamb. Let the glue cure according to the product directions.
- Trim or sand the plug flush, reposition the hinge, and drill a pilot hole centered in the plug.
- Drive the original-size compatible screw, or a 3-inch wood screw if the location reaches sound framing. Tighten until the hinge is flat.
Do not keep upsizing screws in a damaged hole. A larger fastener can split the jamb, leave the hinge leaf proud, and still fail to develop dependable holding power. If the surrounding jamb is cracked or missing substantial material, the repair has moved beyond a simple plug.
When should I replace the hinge instead of tightening it?
Replace a hinge when its leaves are bent, the knuckle is visibly worn, or the hinge has excessive play after the screws are secure. Those conditions let the door move vertically and can repeatedly throw the latch out of the strike. Match the replacement to the existing hinge type and size so the mortises and screw locations remain compatible.
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- Support the slab and trace the existing hinge leaf if its outline is not obvious.
- Replace one hinge at a time, transferring the screws to the same locations where the wood is sound.
- Keep the hinge leaves fully seated in their mortises; a leaf sitting proud changes the door’s position.
- Close and open the door after each replacement. Confirm that the reveal is even before proceeding to the next hinge.
If the pin is removable, do not assume lubricating or replacing the pin will correct a bent leaf or worn knuckle. The metal geometry must be sound and the leaves must be firmly attached.
How do I adjust the strike plate after the door is hanging correctly?
Adjust the strike only after the hinges hold the door squarely. Moving the plate first can hide a sagging hinge and leave the slab rubbing or carrying its weight incorrectly.
- Close the repaired door gently and note whether the latch meets the opening high, low, or to one side.
- Tighten the strike-plate screws if the plate is loose. A loose or crooked plate can contribute to rubbing and poor latching.
- If the plate is still misaligned, loosen its screws, shift it the minimum distance needed in the direction of the latch, and retighten.
- Operate the latch several times. The bolt should enter the opening without being forced, and the door should close without lifting or pushing.
Home Depot identifies a loose or crooked strike plate as a source of door problems and recommends tightening or adjusting it. Lowe’s likewise advises correcting a visibly dropped door at the hinge before changing the strike.
What should I do if the door still rubs the floor?
First confirm that the top hinge and its jamb screws are tight and that the reveal improved. Floor scraping with a latch-side top gap that narrows still points to hinge sag; floor scraping with a distorted, uneven reveal may indicate a warped slab or moving frame.
- Only the latch-side bottom rubs: Recheck the top-hinge reinforcement and stripped-hole repair. A small shift at the top hinge can change the bottom clearance.
- The entire slab is tight against the frame: Look for humidity-related swelling or frame movement rather than forcing hinge screws.
- The hinge knuckle has play: Replace the worn hinge; screw tightening will not restore worn metal.
- The floor or threshold has changed: Confirm that the rubbing is not caused by a moved threshold or finished floor before altering the door.
Do not plane or sand the door as the first response to visible sag. Removing material may make the symptom less obvious while leaving the loose hinge that caused the misalignment.
What if the door will not latch after it dropped?
Repair the hinge attachment first, then evaluate the latch and strike. A latch sitting below the strike opening commonly reflects a dropped slab rather than a strike-plate fault.
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- Compare the latch height with the strike opening while the door is nearly closed.
- Tighten the top hinge and install a 3-inch jamb screw if the hole and framing can hold it.
- Repair any stripped hole with a glued plug and retest.
- Replace a bent or worn hinge if vertical play remains.
- Only after the latch height is stable should you shift the strike plate.
If the latch still misses after these steps, check whether the jamb itself is twisted or displaced. A plate adjustment cannot correct a substantially damaged frame.
Which repair is best for my situation?
Choose the least invasive repair that restores a solid hinge attachment. The trade-offs are summarized below.
| Repair | Best use | Durability and limits |
|---|---|---|
| Tighten existing screws | Holes still grip and hinge metal is sound | Fastest option; will not fix stripped wood or worn knuckles |
| 3-inch top-hinge screw | Loose hinge with sound framing behind the jamb | Low-cost reinforcement; ineffective if the screw reaches no solid wood |
| Glued wood plug | Stripped or enlarged jamb hole | Restores a screwable wood base; requires glue cure time and accurate pilot drilling |
| Replacement hinge | Bent leaves, worn knuckle, or excessive play | Restores hardware geometry when the jamb and door are sound |
| Strike-plate adjustment | Final, minor latch alignment after hinge repair | Finishing adjustment only; cannot support a sagging door |
This sequence follows the guidance from Home Depot, Lowe’s, and the Michigan field guide: correct the load-bearing hinge connection before changing the latch-side hardware.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How can I verify the repair?
Verification should include movement, gaps, and latching rather than a single visual check.
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- Close it slowly and compare the reveal at the top, latch side, bottom, and hinge side.
- Operate the latch repeatedly. It should enter the strike without lifting, pulling, or slamming the door.
- Inspect the repaired screw after several cycles. The head should remain seated and the hinge leaf should remain flat.
- Listen for renewed scraping or clicking at the knuckles, which can signal remaining wear.
Seasonal humidity can change wood dimensions, so a door that is correct in one season may need another reveal check later. If movement returns quickly despite sound screws and hinges, investigate frame movement or warping rather than continually adjusting the strike.
When should I stop and call a professional?
Get professional help when the jamb or frame is substantially damaged, the slab remains badly out of square after hinge repairs, or the installation appears incorrect. Lowe’s notes that significant frame damage or improper installation may require professional repair or door replacement.
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Escalate sooner for a heavy exterior, fire-rated, or glazed door; a cracked jamb near the hinge; or a situation where the door cannot be safely supported. A professional can assess framing, reset a damaged jamb, or determine whether replacement is safer than repeated hardware adjustments.
How do I prevent the problem from returning?
- Check hinge screws at the first sign of a widening top gap or a latch that begins to drag.
- Keep hinge leaves seated flat and address a screw that spins before the hole enlarges further.
- Do not use the handle or door edge as a lever to lift a heavy slab.
- After major humidity changes or frame work, recheck the reveal and latch.
- Replace worn hinges rather than compensating indefinitely with strike-plate movement.
The durable fix is a sound load path from the hinge leaf through the jamb and into solid framing, with a correctly aligned strike as the final adjustment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I fix a sagging door without removing it?
Usually. Support the slab, tighten the hinge screws, and replace one jamb-side top-hinge screw at a time with a longer screw. Removing the door is generally reserved for replacing a hinge or rebuilding badly damaged wood, and the slab still needs support during that work.
Why does my door sag again after I install a longer screw?
The screw may be spinning in stripped wood, missing solid framing, or passing through a jamb that is cracked or moving. Remove it, repair the hole with a glued wood plug when appropriate, and investigate frame damage if the alignment changes again.
Should I bend the hinge knuckles to raise the door?
The Michigan Weatherization Field Guide lists slightly bending hinge knuckles as one possible sagging-door solution, alongside a long screw through the hinge or jamb. Because bending can damage the hinge or overcorrect alignment, use it only when the hinge is otherwise sound and you can make a controlled, minimal adjustment.
How do I tell a warped door from a loose hinge?
A loose hinge usually produces a reveal that changes predictably when the top hinge is tightened and a latch that rises into alignment. A warped slab or moving frame keeps the gaps uneven even with secure hinges and may show contact along a broad section rather than at one corner.
