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A rain garden is a planted depression that temporarily holds runoff from a roof or paved area while water soaks into the ground. A sound design starts by tracing exactly where the water comes from, then checking whether the proposed site can infiltrate it and safely handle overflow. Size, setbacks, and drainage-time guidance vary by location, so treat published figures as local examples and confirm requirements before digging.
1. Trace and measure the runoff that will reach the garden
Watch the property during or after rain. Identify which downspouts, driveway sections, patios, or other hard surfaces send water toward the proposed site. Measure only the area that actually drains to it. For a roof, count the roof plane or portion served by the downspout you plan to connect—not the entire roof by default.
Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection guidance illustrates combining partial roof area with driveway or walkway area before estimating runoff. Its example converts a one-inch rainfall to feet and multiplies by the contributing area: 1,000 square feet produces 80 cubic feet of runoff from one inch of rain. This is a worked example, not a universal storm-design requirement; the publication year is not stated on the retrieved page. Massachusetts DEP rain garden guidance.
2. Choose a suitable site and test it before sizing
Look for a relatively level location that can receive runoff without sending it toward a building or a neighbor’s property. Avoid steep slopes, underground utilities, and places where seasonal groundwater or slow drainage would prevent infiltration. Contact the applicable utility-locate service before excavation, and check local codes or permit requirements.
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Check setbacks and slope guidance locally
Distances and slope limits are recommendations, not universal rules. Massachusetts DEP recommends at least 10 feet from foundations and 50 feet from wells or septic systems. Virginia Cooperative Extension at Virginia Tech also advises at least 10 feet from building foundations and avoiding septic fields and high water tables. Confirm local requirements and site conditions rather than applying these figures automatically. Massachusetts DEP; Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Portland’s residential guidance says rain gardens are unsuitable on slopes over 10 percent. That is Portland-specific guidance, not a general limit for every location. City of Portland rain garden guidance.
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Test infiltration and groundwater
Use the local extension or stormwater authority’s method to assess how quickly water drains from a test hole and whether seasonal groundwater is too close to the surface. Massachusetts guidance cautions that a garden may be unsuitable if water remains in the test hole or groundwater is too high. Portland recommends an infiltration test and warns against compacted native soil. A site that drains poorly may need a different stormwater approach rather than a deeper or larger rain garden.
3. Size the garden for both inflow and soil conditions
There is no single sizing formula that applies everywhere. The required footprint depends on contributing area, runoff volume, allowable ponding depth, and the native soil’s infiltration rate. Use a locally accepted method after checking the site, and treat rules of thumb as starting points rather than design standards.
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| Guidance source | Published sizing figure | How to interpret it |
|---|---|---|
| Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection | About one-eighth to one-third of the drainage area | General rule of thumb; soil and slope affect the actual size. Publication year not stated on the retrieved page. |
| Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech | Drainage area divided by 20 | Presented as a minimum square-footage rule of thumb; publication date shown as 2024. |
| Oregon State University Extension | No single ratio stated | Identifies runoff volume, allowable ponding depth, and native-soil infiltration rate as governing factors. |
The differing figures are not competing universal standards. Local soil, rainfall criteria, and design requirements determine which method is appropriate. Use Massachusetts DEP’s sizing examples, Virginia Cooperative Extension’s guidance, or Oregon State University Extension’s rain garden guide for their respective contexts.
4. Shape the garden and plan where overflow will go
The garden can be shaped to fit the yard, provided its effective ponding area meets the chosen design method. Protect the inlet from erosion, avoid compacting the soil intended to absorb water, and include a stable overflow route for storms that exceed the garden’s storage or infiltration capacity.
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Possible approaches include one garden, multiple connected gardens, or a swale or other suitable route for excess runoff. Choose among them based on available space, site infiltration, the runoff each can safely handle, maintenance needs, and a safe destination for overflow. Virginia Tech and Oregon State Extension both advise planning for excess runoff. A rain garden has finite capacity; do not assume it will capture every storm or prevent flooding. Virginia Cooperative Extension; Oregon State University Extension.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.5. Select plants for the basin and the drier edges
Choose plants suited to your local climate and divide the planting by moisture conditions. The basin may stay wet for a time after rain, while the outer banks generally experience drier conditions. Virginia Tech and Illinois Extension describe selecting plants for these distinct zones. Rather than relying on a universal species list, use a local native-plant list or ask a regional extension service or nursery for plants suited to your site. Virginia Cooperative Extension; Illinois Extension.
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6. Inspect after storms and keep the system working
Check the inlet, overflow, planted basin, and berm for sediment buildup, erosion, or damage. Remove excess sediment and repair damaged vegetation or berms so water can enter and leave by the intended routes. Massachusetts DEP recommends inspection every three to six months and after large storms.
Use local drainage guidance when judging how long water should remain. Portland says its residential gardens should drain within 24 hours; Massachusetts guidance advises avoiding standing water beyond 24–36 hours. These are source-specific recommendations, not a single universal deadline. Persistent standing water is a reason to reassess infiltration and site conditions. City of Portland; Massachusetts DEP.
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