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BETTESWORTHConstruction
houseplant care

How to Care for a Money Tree So It Thrives Indoors

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To keep a money tree thriving indoors, give it bright indirect light, water only when the upper soil has begun to dry, and use a well-draining pot with a drainage hole. The plant sold under this name is usually Pachira aquatica; its most common failure is not underwatering but roots left in saturated soil.

The key to a thriving money tree is simple: give it bright, filtered light, water only when the upper layer of soil has started to dry, and let excess water drain completely. Most problems come from the opposite combination—dim light, a soggy pot, and watering on a fixed calendar schedule. The plant commonly sold as a money tree is usually Pachira aquatica, also called Guiana chestnut or Malabar chestnut.

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These instructions apply specifically to Pachira aquatica. “Money tree” is also used for jade plants and other species, which can have different care and pet-safety requirements.

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What to expect from an indoor money tree

Pachira aquatica is a tropical broadleaf evergreen in the Malvaceae family. It is often sold with a braided trunk or as a bonsai-style plant. In nature it can become a substantial tree, but indoor plants are usually much smaller. Depending on conditions and cultivation, sources describe mature houseplants anywhere from roughly 1.5 metres to 6–8 feet.

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A healthy indoor specimen is normally valued for its foliage and sculptural trunk. Indoor money trees rarely flower or produce fruit, so the absence of flowers is not evidence that the plant is unhealthy. The braid is ornamental: it does not change the plant’s fundamental requirements.

Quick care requirements

Need Best practice
Light Bright, indirect or filtered light; protect from harsh midday sun.
Water Check the top inch or two of mix, then water thoroughly when it has begun to dry.
Soil Open, well-draining indoor potting mix.
Pot A correctly sized container with a drainage hole.
Temperature Approximately 65–75°F (18–24°C); protect from cold drafts and sudden changes.
Humidity Moderate humidity is helpful, but good drainage matters more.
Fertilizer Balanced fertilizer at reduced strength during active growth only.
Pruning Remove damaged leaves and shorten leggy shoots in spring or active growth.

1. Give it bright, indirect light

Place a money tree near an east- or west-facing window, or in a bright north-facing position. A south-facing window can work if the plant is set back from the glass or protected by a sheer curtain. The aim is strong ambient light without prolonged, intense direct sun on the leaves.

Too little light commonly causes stretched stems, large gaps between leaves, pale growth, weak branching, and leaf drop. Too much intense direct light can bleach or scorch the foliage. If the room is too dim, a supplemental grow light can compensate for some of the shortfall; it is a solution for inadequate light, not a requirement for every money tree.

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Turn the pot occasionally so one side does not grow toward the window. Make changes gradually rather than moving the plant repeatedly between deep shade and strong sun. Sudden changes in exposure can stress or scorch leaves.

2. Water by checking the soil—not by the calendar

There is no reliable “water every Sunday” rule for money trees. The interval depends on pot size, drainage, soil composition, light, temperature, humidity, season, and whether the container is porous or plastic.

  1. Push a finger into the upper inch or two of potting mix, or use a moisture meter as a secondary check.
  2. When that upper layer has started to dry, water slowly and thoroughly.
  3. Continue until the full root ball is moistened and water begins to leave the drainage hole.
  4. Let the pot drain completely, then empty the saucer or decorative cachepot.

A moisture meter for houseplants can help if you are unsure how quickly the mix is drying, but it does not replace checking the plant and understanding how your particular pot behaves. Finger-testing is sufficient for many plants.

During darker, cooler winter conditions, growth and water use usually slow. Allow the mix to dry farther and water less often than you would during vigorous spring or summer growth. In a bright, warm room or a small porous pot, the plant may dry considerably faster.

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How to distinguish underwatering from overwatering

Observation More consistent with dryness More consistent with excess moisture
Soil Dry well below the surface and pulling from the pot edge Wet for many days or persistently saturated
Leaves Wilting, curling, crisp brown edges, possible drop Yellowing, leaf drop, soft foliage, or wilting despite wet soil
Roots May be dry and brittle Brown, mushy, or foul-smelling
Other clues Pot feels unusually light Fungus gnats, sour mix, or standing water

Wilting does not automatically mean the plant needs water. Damaged roots cannot absorb water normally, so an overwatered plant can look thirsty.

3. Use an airy mix and a pot with drainage

Choose a commercial, well-draining indoor potting mix. A standard houseplant mix amended with perlite, fine bark, or another aerating component is generally more suitable than dense garden soil. The root zone should retain some moisture without remaining waterlogged.

A well-draining houseplant potting mix is especially useful when the existing soil stays wet for too long. Avoid treating a layer of gravel at the bottom as a substitute for drainage; it does not fix a container that lacks a drainage hole.

Use a houseplant pot with a drainage hole and make sure water can actually escape. A nursery pot placed inside a decorative cachepot is acceptable only if you remove it to water or empty the cachepot afterward. Never leave the root zone sitting in water.

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When to repot

Repot when roots circle densely, emerge from the drainage holes, the plant becomes unstable or top-heavy, or the old mix has broken down and stays wet unusually long. Move up only one pot size at a time. An oversized container surrounds the existing root ball with more wet soil than the roots can use, increasing the risk of root rot.

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Braided specimens may contain several individually rooted plants rather than one plant with a single trunk. If you repot, inspect the base and root ball rather than assuming the braid represents one root system. Do not try to braid mature, stiff stems: forcing them can split or girdle the trunks.

4. Keep it warm and avoid environmental shocks

Money trees are tropical plants. An indoor temperature around 65–75°F (18–24°C) is a useful target. Keep the plant away from exterior doors, cold windows, heating vents, radiators, and air-conditioning outlets. Avoid abrupt changes in temperature or light.

Bring an outdoor plant indoors before temperatures approach about 45°F (7°C), and inspect it for pests before placing it near other houseplants.

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5. Provide moderate humidity—but do not sacrifice airflow

Moderate humidity can be beneficial, particularly in homes that are heated or air-conditioned. You can improve local humidity by grouping plants, running a room humidifier, or placing the pot on a pebble tray with water below the level of the pot. The container should never sit directly in the tray water.

Humidity is supportive rather than mandatory, and it cannot compensate for saturated soil, poor drainage, cold stress, or inadequate light. Maintain reasonable air movement and avoid keeping the foliage constantly wet, since stagnant, damp conditions can encourage disease and pest problems.

6. Fertilize lightly during active growth

Feed during active spring and summer growth with a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. A cautious starting approach is half-strength every two to four weeks, always following the product label. A low-light plant or one growing slowly needs less feeding than a vigorously growing plant in bright light.

A balanced water-soluble houseplant fertilizer is optional rather than a cure-all. Do not fertilize a severely wilted, newly repotted, diseased, or waterlogged plant until its roots have stabilized. Avoid routine feeding when the plant is barely growing in winter.

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Overfertilizing can produce salt buildup and damage roots. If you see a white crust on the soil or brown leaf tips after feeding, reduce the frequency. If the container drains properly, flush the potting mix with clean water and allow it to drain fully.

7. Prune to control shape and encourage branching

Use clean, sharp scissors to remove dead, yellow, or badly damaged leaves. In spring or another period of active growth, shorten leggy or excessively long shoots to control size and encourage branching. Make cuts just above a leaf node when practical.

Do not cut or manipulate the braided trunks simply to tighten the braid. The stems become less flexible with age, and force can split them or restrict their growth.

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  • Accurate Soil Moisture Detection: The XLUX Soil Moisture Meter can tell you if the soil deep inside your pot or garden is dry, moist or wet; whereas your eyes and fingers can only determine the moisture level of the soil surface. The probe is 5.5 inches (14 cm) longer than regular styles, allowing it to measure the soil moisture at the bottom of larger and deeper flower pots.
  • Easy-to-Read Large Dial: The large dial is easy to read and includes three zones with ten scales, making it very straightforward to understand.
  • Immediate Moisture Reading: Insert the probe into the soil, and without waiting, the dial will immediately display the moisture level. You can then decide whether your plant needs watering based on the measurement. Do not leave this moisture meter in the soil for more than 5 minutes, as the metal tip will gradually corrode.
  • Less Damage: A single probe causes less damage to plant roots compared to double or multiple probes, and when you remove the probe after testing, it won't bring out much soil.
  • Usage Precautions: Do not use it to test very hard soil. Do not test water or other liquids. After testing, please wipe the probe clean.

8. Clean the leaves and inspect the plant routinely

The broad leaves collect dust, which can reduce the light available to the foliage. Wipe them gently with a damp cloth and remove fallen leaves and dead material from the soil surface. Do not use commercial leaf-shine products or milk; these can leave residues and may harm or hinder the foliage.

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Whenever you water, inspect both sides of the leaves, the stems, the pot rim, and the saucer. When practical, isolate new plants for about one to two weeks before placing them beside an established collection.

Common money-tree pests

Potential pests include aphids, scale, mealybugs, spider mites, and fungus gnats. Spider mites may be more troublesome in hot, dry conditions; fungus gnats are strongly associated with persistently damp potting mix. Stressed plants are generally more vulnerable.

  1. Isolate the affected plant.
  2. Remove visible insects by hand or rinse the foliage with a firm but non-damaging stream of water.
  3. Repeat inspections, because one treatment rarely removes every life stage.
  4. Use yellow sticky traps to monitor flying pests such as fungus gnats. Traps do not correct waterlogged soil.
  5. If treatment is necessary, use only a product labelled for indoor plants and the specific pest. Follow the label exactly.

Yellow sticky traps for fungus gnats are useful for monitoring flying adults, but the primary response to fungus gnats is to correct excessive moisture and improve the root-zone conditions. Do not apply pesticide to a moisture-stressed plant, and avoid homemade soap mixtures that have not been tested for plant safety.

Recognizing and treating root rot

Persistently wet, poorly drained mix is the major preventable risk for a money tree. Suspect root rot if the plant has yellowing leaves, repeated leaf drop, wilting while the soil is wet, a sour-smelling mix, fungus gnats, or roots that are brown and mushy rather than firm and light-coloured.

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Root damage can mimic underwatering, so check the soil before watering again. If root rot is plausible:

  1. Stop watering and remove the plant from its container.
  2. Inspect the roots and gently remove saturated mix.
  3. With clean tools, cut away clearly dead, brown, or mushy roots.
  4. Repot in fresh, open, well-draining mix and a clean container with a drainage hole.
  5. Do not reuse the saturated old mix.
  6. Hold fertilizer until the plant shows stable recovery and new growth.

Recovery depends on how much healthy root tissue remains; these steps improve the plant’s chances but cannot guarantee recovery. Do not compensate for root loss by keeping the replacement mix constantly wet.

A systematic approach to yellow leaves, leaf drop, or wilting

When a money tree deteriorates, investigate in this order:

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  1. Check soil moisture. Is the root ball dry, appropriately moist, or saturated?
  2. Check drainage. Does the pot have an open hole, and is the saucer or cachepot holding water?
  3. Evaluate light. Look for deep shade, stretched growth, or harsh sun scorch.
  4. Inspect for pests. Look under leaves, along stems, and around the pot rim.
  5. Check temperature and placement. Look for drafts, radiators, vents, and sudden changes.
  6. Adjust one factor at a time. Avoid repeatedly adding water, fertilizer, or sprays without identifying the likely cause.
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Seasonal care

Season What to do
Spring Increase watering only as the mix dries; begin restrained feeding during active growth; inspect pests, clean leaves, and repot if roots have outgrown the container.
Summer Maintain bright filtered light; check soil more often in hot or bright rooms; protect from harsh sun and strong wind; continue feeding only while growth is active.
Autumn Reduce feeding as growth slows; reassess watering instead of automatically maintaining a summer schedule; inspect for pests before moving the plant indoors.
Winter Provide the brightest practical indirect light; keep the plant warm and away from drafts; allow the mix to dry more between waterings; avoid fertilizer if growth is minimal.

Are money trees safe for pets?

The ASPCA lists Pachira aquatica as non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. “Non-toxic” does not mean the plant is edible or incapable of causing symptoms: eating it may still be associated with nausea, vomiting, or loose stool. Contact a veterinarian or animal poison-control service if a pet eats the plant and develops symptoms or if you are concerned.

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Confirm the botanical identity before relying on this information. Jade plants and Chinese money plants may also be sold under money-related common names and do not necessarily have the same care or toxicity profile.

Bottom line

Put your money tree in bright filtered light, use an airy mix and a pot that drains, and water deeply only after the upper inch or two has begun to dry. Empty collected water, keep the plant warm, feed sparingly during active growth, and investigate yellowing or wilting by checking the roots and soil before adding more water. That approach is more reliable than a fixed watering schedule and prevents the most common cause of decline: roots that stay wet for too long.

Disclosure

Some product links on this page may be monetized. Any recommended tool is optional; plant observation and proper drainage remain the foundation of care.

Optional lighting aid

Consider an indoor plant grow light only when the available natural light is consistently inadequate. Introduce supplemental light gradually and keep the plant protected from heat or excessive intensity.

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Potting mix

Choose an open, well-draining indoor mix rather than dense garden soil. Perlite, bark, or similar aerating material can improve drainage when appropriate for the mix.

Container

The essential feature is a functional drainage hole. A decorative outer pot is fine only if excess water is emptied after watering.

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Fertilizer

Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer at reduced strength and only during active growth. Stop if the plant is stressed, newly repotted, diseased, or waterlogged.

Pest monitoring

Sticky traps can reveal flying adults, especially fungus gnats, but they are not a substitute for correcting wet soil or treating an identified infestation according to the product label.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water a money tree?

Water when the upper inch or two of potting mix has started to dry. Then soak the entire root ball and let excess water drain. The interval varies with light, temperature, pot size, soil, and season, so a fixed weekly schedule is unreliable.

Why are my money tree’s leaves turning yellow?

Yellow leaves can result from persistently wet soil, poor drainage, insufficient light, pests, or natural stress. Check the soil and roots before watering or fertilizing. Wilting with wet soil is a warning sign for root damage.

Can a money tree grow in low light?

Yes, the commonly sold species Pachira aquatica generally prefers bright, indirect or filtered light. Protect it from intense direct sun, especially through a south-facing window.

Is a money tree safe for cats and dogs?

Yes. The ASPCA lists Pachira aquatica as non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, although eating it may still cause stomach upset. Confirm that the plant is actually Pachira aquatica because other plants may also be called money trees.

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The Bottom Line

Bright filtered light, a draining pot, and soil that is allowed to begin drying are the essentials. Check the plant before watering, because both drought and root rot can cause wilting and leaf drop.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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