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Regrading a yard means reshaping the ground so it falls away from your house and carries surface water away from the foundation. Start by checking local drainage rules, then fill low areas with soil that compacts well and shape a continuous outward slope; if the site cannot drain that way or water still pools, a swale or properly outlet-connected French drain may be an option.
What slope should a yard have to drain away from a house?
For soil around a home, the Government of Canada describes a 5% slope as ideal and 2% as a commonly considered minimum. Those figures are general guidance, not a universal code requirement: local rules, soil, lot layout, and the destination of runoff all matter.
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A percentage grade is the vertical change divided by the horizontal distance, multiplied by 100. For example, a 2% grade falls 2 units vertically for every 100 units horizontally. The Government of Canada illustrates its guidance as soil beside the foundation about 8 cm (3 in.) higher than soil 1.5 m (5 ft.) away. Keep that distance with the example; it is not a direction to apply one slope figure to every site.
The U.S. Department of Energy’s Building America Solution Center gives a separate target for new construction: 6 inches of fall within the first 10 feet around a structure. That is a new-construction guideline, not automatically a retrofit requirement. Pavement has its own recommendations: the same guide reports that ENERGY STAR recommends at least 0.25 inch per foot for impervious surfaces, while the 2009, 2012, and 2015 International Residential Code editions recommend a 2% slope for impervious structures within 10 feet. Check the code adopted where you live before treating any figure as mandatory.
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A swale’s channel slope is another, different measurement. The DOE guide gives 2%–4% as general longitudinal guidance for a swale: a shallower channel may hold water, while a steeper one can move water faster and increase erosion risk. Do not confuse the swale’s lengthwise fall with the overall grade of the yard.
| Where the guidance applies | Figure | How to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Soil beside a home | 5% ideal; 2% commonly considered minimum | Government of Canada homeowner guidance; verify local requirements. |
| Government of Canada example near the foundation | About 8 cm (3 in.) higher at the wall than 1.5 m (5 ft.) away | An example of the relationship between the two points, not a universal rule. |
| New construction around a structure | 6 inches of fall within the first 10 feet | DOE Building America guide target for new construction; not necessarily a retrofit mandate. |
| Impervious surfaces near a foundation | At least 0.25 inch per foot in the ENERGY STAR recommendation reported by DOE; 2% in the cited 2009, 2012, and 2015 IRC editions | Applies to hard surfaces, not a substitute for soil-grade guidance; verify the locally adopted code. |
| Swale channel, along its length | 2%–4% | DOE general channel guidance; too little fall can pool, and too much can encourage erosion. |
For primary references, see the Government of Canada’s property-grading guide and the DOE guides to swales, drains, and site grading and hard surfaces around a house.
What should you check before moving soil?
Before digging or changing the shape of your lot, find out what rules and drainage arrangements apply. A grade that protects one foundation can create a problem elsewhere if it blocks a planned route or sends runoff onto a neighbor’s property.
- Check municipal requirements. Ask your local government whether grading changes need a permit or inspection, and whether there are rules about easements, stormwater, or discharge destinations. The City of Guelph, for example, says alterations that change surface flow may be subject to permits or bylaws; requirements vary by municipality.
- Look for the property’s intended drainage routes. Review available lot or drainage plans and identify existing swales, ditches, and other routes. Keep them open rather than filling or redirecting them.
- Confirm where water may go. Do not assume you can drain onto a neighboring lot or the street. Some local rules require runoff to remain on the property or to reach a specifically approved outlet.
- Get site-specific advice when the work is substantial or uncertain. A local grading or drainage professional, or a landscape architect, can help assess significant earthwork, steep grades, erosion, hardscape that slopes toward the home, and potential effects on neighboring properties.
The City of Guelph’s drainage guidance is one local example, not a rule for other municipalities. The Government of Canada also advises checking local requirements and consulting a professional before changing grading.
How do you find out where the water is going?
Observe the yard after rain, when it is safe to do so, and note where water collects or moves toward the house. The goal is to understand the flow before adding soil or choosing a drain.
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- Walk around the house perimeter during or after rainfall. Note visible streams, pooling, and areas where water appears to run toward the foundation.
- Look for settled areas and low spots. A dip can hold water even when much of the yard slopes away.
- Check existing swales and ditches for blockage or places where water is being held. Do not close off a route that is meant to carry drainage.
- Look at downspouts and nearby hard surfaces. Check whether they are directing water toward the house or a low area rather than away from the foundation.
- Record the trouble spots and the direction water takes. If runoff crosses a boundary or the intended destination is unclear, check local guidance before changing the flow.
Do not enter standing water or inspect during dangerous weather. If water repeatedly reaches the foundation, or you cannot determine why it is collecting, seek local professional advice rather than simply covering the visible low point.
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How do you measure the existing grade?
Use a measuring tape and a level to compare the ground near the house with a point farther out. Canada.ca lists both tools for grading work, along with a wheelbarrow and soil-moving tools.
- Choose a line running outward from the house through the problem area. Measure the horizontal distance between the near and far points.
- Use the level to determine how much higher or lower one point is than the other. For a longer run, take measurements in sections rather than assuming one reading represents the whole yard.
- Calculate the grade as (vertical fall ÷ horizontal run) × 100. Use the same units for both measurements. A positive fall away from the house means the ground is lower farther from the foundation.
- Check more than one line if the yard’s shape varies. A good reading along one path does not rule out a low spot or a different flow path nearby.
For example, if the ground falls 2 units over a horizontal run of 100 units, the slope is 2%. This calculation helps describe the surface; it does not establish that the grade meets your local code or that the water has an approved destination.
How do you regrade a yard so water flows away from the house?
Where there is enough space and no local restriction prevents it, the basic repair is to fill low ground and shape a continuous fall away from the house. Use soil that compacts well, measure the result, and preserve clearance around siding and openings.
- Confirm the work area and constraints. Use the observations and measurements to identify where the grade needs correction. Check local rules and any drainage plan before moving soil.
- Choose suitable fill. The Government of Canada recommends soil that compacts well, such as a mixture of sand, silt, and clay. Soil needs vary by site, so ask a local soil supplier or landscape professional for a recommendation suited to your property.
- Fill low areas and shape the fall. Add soil to low ground and build up the grade nearest the house as needed, shaping a smooth, continuous route that falls away rather than creating a new depression.
- Keep the building clearances intact. Do not bury siding, vents, or other openings. The DOE’s site-grading guidance emphasizes maintaining clearance between the ground and siding; if the target grade would cover or crowd an opening, stop and get site-specific advice.
- Check the finished slope. Re-measure the grade along the repaired route and check nearby paths where water could still be trapped or turned toward the foundation. A single corrected low spot is not enough if the adjoining surface creates another basin.
- Protect the surface. Restore suitable vegetation or other erosion protection. Plants help hold soil in place; on a slope, fast-moving water can carry soil away. Avoid shaping a route that concentrates runoff into an erosive stream.
- Inspect after the soil settles. Fill any new low spots and repair erosion rather than assuming the initial shape will remain unchanged.
For more on the relationship between grading and drainage routes, consult the Government of Canada’s grading guidance. It describes the goal this way: “When done properly, the ground will slope down and away from your home to direct the flow of water away from your foundation.”
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What can you do if water still pools after regrading?
First determine whether water is still running over the surface toward the house, collecting in a low area, or persisting because the site has limited room or fall. A swale or French drain may help in the right conditions, but neither fixes every drainage problem without a suitable route or outlet.
| Option | May suit | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Surface regrading | A yard with enough space to create continuous fall away from the house | Settling, neighboring grades, hardscape, and local rules can constrain the work. |
| Vegetated swale | Surface runoff that needs a shallow channel to collect and convey it | Needs an appropriate route and maintenance; the channel’s slope can affect pooling and erosion. |
| French drain | Some constrained sites or areas that continue to pool after grading | Needs a suitable, permitted outlet and site-appropriate design; it is not a universal cure. |
| Professional assessment | Persistent pooling, substantial earthwork, erosion, steep grades, or drainage from hardscape toward the house | Required solution depends on property conditions and local requirements. |
When is a swale the better option?
A swale is a shallow surface channel that collects and conveys runoff. It can slow flow and support infiltration, and may be placed along a property boundary or at the base of a natural grade where the site plan and local rules allow.
The DOE guide gives 2%–4% as general guidance for the swale channel’s lengthwise slope. Below 2%, water may pool; above 4%, faster flow may contribute to erosion. Keep existing planned swales and ditches clear, and do not create a new channel that sends water across a property boundary or toward a foundation.
When might a French drain help?
The Government of Canada identifies a French drain as an option when the required grading cannot be achieved or pooling continues. The DOE describes a typical arrangement as perforated pipe surrounded by rock and landscape fabric, with positive slope toward an outlet.
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What if a patio, walkway, or driveway slopes toward the house?
Hard surfaces need their own drainage, and their recommendations differ from those for soil. The DOE guide reports an ENERGY STAR recommendation of at least 0.25 inch per foot for impervious surfaces and cites 2% within 10 feet in the 2009, 2012, and 2015 International Residential Code editions. Those cited editions may not match the code currently adopted in your area.
Changing a poured patio, sidewalk, or driveway can be difficult and expensive. If a hard surface sends water toward the foundation, ask a professional to assess whether regrading, a drain, or another locally permitted solution is appropriate rather than treating it like a simple soil-fill job.
The DOE’s stormwater-control guide discusses swales and drains; its separate guide to patios, walkways, and driveways addresses hard surfaces.
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How do you prevent the new grade from washing away or settling?
A newly shaped grade needs follow-up: rainfall can expose erosion or reveal that soil has settled into a low spot. Protect the surface and check it again rather than assuming the initial shape will stay in place.
- Restore suitable vegetation or other erosion protection, particularly where water moves quickly or the ground is sloped.
- Keep swales and ditches open so they can carry their intended flow.
- Inspect for erosion, new depressions, pooling, and water flowing toward the home in spring and fall, as the Government of Canada recommends.
- Recheck after the first rainy season. The DOE guide notes that final grading may need attention after settling.
- Repair a new low spot or erosion path promptly, while keeping the permitted drainage route and neighboring properties in mind.
Illinois Extension’s landscape drainage guidance for homeowners explains why faster water can carry more soil and why plants help hold soil in place.
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When should you hire a grading or drainage professional?
Get professional help when the problem requires substantial earthwork or a solution that depends on conditions you cannot confirm yourself. A small low spot may be manageable, but persistent water or a constrained outlet can make a simple-looking repair risky.
Ask a local grading or drainage professional or landscape architect to assess the property if water keeps pooling after grading, the yard is steep or eroding, a patio or driveway slopes toward the house, a drainage route crosses a boundary, or you are unsure whether a proposed outlet is permitted. A professional can also help when reaching the desired grade would cover siding, vents, or other openings, or when the lot has little room to establish a fall away from the foundation.
Do not treat the numbers in general guides as a guarantee that the basement will stay dry. Local code, soil, existing drainage routes, and the site’s actual outlet determine what a workable repair looks like.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use topsoil to regrade next to my foundation?
The guidance here calls for soil that compacts well, such as a sand, silt, and clay mixture, rather than naming topsoil as the right fill for every site. Ask a local soil supplier or landscape professional what material suits your soil and the work.
Does regrading guarantee that my basement will stay dry?
No. Regrading is intended to direct surface water away from the foundation, but the available guidance does not establish a guaranteed reduction in flooding or foundation damage. Persistent water may need a site-specific drainage assessment.
Should downspouts be included when diagnosing yard drainage?
Yes. The practical inspection is to check whether downspouts and nearby hard surfaces are directing water toward the house or a low area. Any change to where runoff goes should still follow local rules and avoid harm to neighboring properties.
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How often should I inspect a regraded yard?
Check it after the first rainy season because soil may settle, and inspect in spring and fall for erosion, new low spots, pooling, or flow toward the home. Repairing a small developing problem can keep it from becoming a persistent drainage route.
