For most modern TVs and soundbars, HDMI ARC or eARC is the best connection. Use the TV’s port labeled HDMI ARC, HDMI eARC, or eARC/ARC, and connect it to the soundbar port labeled HDMI OUT (TV-ARC/eARC) or similar. Optical is the most dependable fallback; Bluetooth is convenient but can introduce delay and supports fewer audio formats.
Choose the right connection
| Connection | Best for | Advantages | Limitations |
|---|---|---|---|
| HDMI eARC | Newer TVs and soundbars | One cable, TV-remote control, highest bandwidth | Both devices must support the required features |
| HDMI ARC | Most modern basic and midrange systems | One cable and usually volume/power control | Less bandwidth than eARC |
| Optical | Older TVs or unreliable HDMI setups | Simple, reliable digital audio | Usually lacks HDMI-CEC control and has less format support |
| Bluetooth | Temporary or cable-free listening | No cable between the devices | Possible latency, pairing conflicts, and compressed audio |
| AUX/analog | TVs without digital outputs | Broad basic compatibility | Usually stereo only |
Do not assume every HDMI port supports audio return. The port must be marked ARC or eARC. An ordinary HDMI input is not interchangeable with the TV’s ARC/eARC port. See Sony’s connection guide and Roku’s setup instructions.
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Before you start
- Check the TV and soundbar models and available ports.
- Locate HDMI ARC/eARC, optical, Bluetooth, and any AUX connections.
- Have the supplied or a suitable HDMI cable available. For eARC, follow the cable requirements in both manuals; a High Speed HDMI cable with Ethernet may be appropriate.
- Check whether the soundbar’s subwoofer or rear speakers need separate power and pairing.
- Find the soundbar remote and install its app or firmware updates if the manufacturer requires them.
- If the TV uses an external connection box, look for the ARC/eARC marking there.
Method 1: Connect with HDMI ARC or eARC
- Turn off or mute the TV and soundbar.
- Connect one end of the HDMI cable to the TV port labeled
HDMI ARC,HDMI eARC, oreARC/ARC. - Connect the other end to the soundbar port labeled
HDMI OUT (TV-ARC),HDMI OUT (eARC/ARC), orTV eARC/ARC. Do not use an ordinary soundbar HDMI input unless its manual specifically instructs you to. - Turn on both devices and set the soundbar input to
TV ARC,HDMI ARC,eARC, orTV. - In the TV sound menu, select the external HDMI audio device or external speaker option.
- Enable HDMI-CEC if volume and power control do not work. Brand names include LG SIMPLINK, Samsung Anynet+, Sony BRAVIA Sync, and the relevant CEC setting on Roku TVs.
- Set digital audio output to
Auto,Pass Through, or the manufacturer’s equivalent. If there is no sound, change it temporarily toPCM.
Test a built-in TV streaming app and then an external source such as a console or streaming box. The soundbar should display ARC, eARC, or TV; the TV speakers should be silent; and the TV remote should normally adjust the soundbar volume.
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ARC means Audio Return Channel: it sends TV audio back to the soundbar over HDMI. eARC is the enhanced version, with greater bandwidth and broader support for higher-bitrate formats. CEC handles device commands such as volume, input, and power control. They are related but not identical: a setup can produce sound while CEC control still fails. Feature support depends on the TV, soundbar, source, cable, and content. Roku explains the distinction in its HDMI-CEC and ARC guide.
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Method 2: Connect with an optical cable
- Remove the protective caps from the optical cable.
- Connect one end to the TV port labeled
Optical Out,Digital Audio Out, orTOSLINK. - Connect the other end to the soundbar port labeled
Optical In,Digital In, orOPTICAL. Do not force the keyed connector. - Select
Optical,D.IN, or the equivalent soundbar input. - Set the TV audio output to
Optical,Digital Audio Out, orExternal Speaker. - Choose
PCMif there is no sound, then testAutoorDolby Digitalif both devices support it.
Optical is often the best fallback for an older TV or a troublesome ARC connection. It can carry some compressed surround formats, but it generally offers less bandwidth and fewer control features than HDMI eARC. LG and Sony provide additional optical setup guidance.
Method 3: Connect with Bluetooth
- Put the soundbar into Bluetooth pairing mode.
- Open the TV’s Bluetooth or sound-output settings and scan for devices.
- Select the soundbar’s model name and confirm pairing.
- Choose the paired Bluetooth speaker as the TV output if the TV does not switch automatically.
- Play dialogue first and check for lip-sync delay.
Menu names vary by model. If pairing fails, forget the soundbar on the TV, disable unused Bluetooth devices, and pair again. Bluetooth is useful for convenience, but HDMI or optical is usually preferable for regular TV and home-theater use.
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Set audio formats correctly
These settings are compatibility controls, not universal quality upgrades:
- PCM: the safest troubleshooting setting, usually providing stereo or basic decoded audio.
- Auto: allows the TV to negotiate a supported format.
- Pass Through: sends the incoming signal to the soundbar for decoding.
- Bitstream or Dolby Digital: available on some TVs and sources.
- eARC Mode: may be listed as Auto, On, or Off.
Start with PCM to establish basic sound. Once it works, try Auto, then Pass Through or eARC if the equipment and content support them. If sound disappears, return to the last working setting. For lip-sync problems, look for Audio Delay, AV Sync, or Lip Sync controls on the TV and soundbar.
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Fix common problems
No sound over HDMI
- Confirm the cable is in the TV’s ARC/eARC port.
- Confirm the soundbar end is in HDMI OUT/TV ARC, not HDMI IN.
- Select the ARC, eARC, or TV input on the soundbar.
- Select HDMI/external speaker output on the TV.
- Enable CEC on both devices.
- Power-cycle both devices.
- Set the TV format to PCM.
- Disable eARC temporarily if the soundbar supports ARC but not eARC.
- Disconnect other HDMI devices and test again.
- Try a known-good HDMI cable.
Roku’s no-sound guide also identifies incorrect inputs, unsupported formats, and eARC compatibility as possible causes.
Sound still comes from the TV
Recheck the TV audio-output setting, confirm the soundbar is powered on, and ensure it is not set to Bluetooth, AUX, or another input. For optical, select Optical or Digital Out in the TV menu. Some TVs also offer a setting to disable their internal speakers.
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Volume buttons do not work
Enable CEC on both devices and rerun device detection. HDMI-style control is usually unavailable through optical, so you may need the soundbar remote or app. A working audio connection does not guarantee working power and volume synchronization.
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There is audio delay
Prefer HDMI ARC/eARC over Bluetooth, adjust the TV’s AV Sync or Audio Delay setting, and test a built-in app separately from an external source. Avoid connecting HDMI and optical simultaneously unless the manual recommends it.
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Dolby Atmos or surround sound is missing
Confirm that the TV, soundbar, source device, app, and content all support the desired format. Use eARC where greater bandwidth is required, and select Auto or Pass Through. Check that the soundbar is not in a stereo, night, voice-only, or two-channel mode. An Atmos label on the soundbar alone does not guarantee Atmos through every connection.
The soundbar switches inputs or Bluetooth will not stay connected
Disable unused Bluetooth connections, remove duplicate HDMI and optical connections during testing, and temporarily disconnect other HDMI devices. To restart cleanly, turn both devices off, unplug them briefly, reconnect the soundbar, and then turn on the TV.
Quick Recap
Important connection scenarios
- External streaming devices: When connected to the TV, their audio normally returns through ARC/eARC. When connected directly to the soundbar, video must pass from the soundbar to the TV and the soundbar must support the required video standards.
- Game consoles: Connecting to the TV can simplify video switching; connecting to the soundbar may help when the TV cannot pass the desired audio format.
- Occupied ARC/eARC port: Move another device to a regular HDMI port when possible.
- Wireless speakers: Wireless audio does not mean wireless power. Subwoofers and rear speakers generally still need outlets.
- Soundbar HDMI inputs: An HDMI input is not the same as the HDMI OUT port used for TV ARC.
Improve the listening experience
- Center the soundbar below or above the TV without blocking the screen or remote sensor.
- Run the manufacturer’s room-calibration process if available.
- Use dialogue enhancement only when needed; excessive processing can make other content sound unnatural.
- Reduce bass if voices become masked.
- Check the subwoofer and rear speakers for power and pairing.
- Use night mode in an apartment or shared home.
Final verification checklist
- Dialogue is audible and synchronized.
- The soundbar shows the correct input.
- The TV speakers are silent.
- The TV remote changes soundbar volume.
- A built-in TV app works.
- An external HDMI source works.
- The desired audio format is available without dropouts.
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