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What you need for the cardboard build
The Make: tutorial by Eric Thorstensson describes a compact land-going craft assembled from cardboard, plastic sheet and RC components. Its listed parts are starting specifications, not a guarantee that any components in those categories will work together.
- Corrugated cardboard for the hull and steering fin.
- A heavy-duty plastic trash bag for the skirt.
- Strong double-sided tape, glue, connectors, straws, and zip ties or rubber bands.
- A 9 g micro servo and a two-channel-minimum transmitter and receiver.
- A brushless motor in the 1,000–2,000 kV range, an approximately 10 A ESC, and a 5×4.5 propeller.
Choose the motor, ESC, battery, propeller and radio equipment as a compatible system. The tutorial’s example categories alone do not establish electrical ratings, connector fit, or that a particular motor and propeller combination is suitable. A search phrase such as brushless RC motor 1000kV 2000kV can help locate candidates, but verify the motor’s specifications and compatibility with the ESC and propeller before buying.
See the Make: cardboard-and-trash-bag hovercraft guide for the original project details.
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- This plastic model requires assembly and painting. Adhesives, tools, paints, etc., sold separately
- 1/35 scale unpainted plastic assembly kit
- Includes clear parts, etched parts, and decals
- Gecko Model (Hong Kong) Import Plastic Model
Cut and reinforce the hull
- Cut the corrugated-cardboard base to approximately 25 cm × 34 cm, following the Make: design.
- Orient the corrugations front-to-back. The tutorial warns that the sheet can fold more readily in a crash if the flutes run the other way.
- Cut the motor-pod opening off-center rather than assuming the pod belongs at the exact center. Its position may need adjustment to balance the selected motor, propeller and electronics.
- Build either the optional 3D-printed pod or the cardboard version. For a cardboard pod, adapt the motor mount to the chosen motor and reinforce its mounting surface with a plate; the tutorial mentions plastic or wood as reinforcement options.
Make the two-sheet trash-bag skirt
The Make: skirt is not a single loose bag wrapped around the hull. It uses two plastic layers, a central opening and deliberately positioned holes that let lift air feed the skirt. The dimensions below are this design’s starting points; the tutorial says to experiment with skirt size and hole placement.
- Open the trash bag into a single sheet and trace the hull outline, leaving roughly 4–5 cm of extra plastic beyond the base.
- Cut the central opening in the offset position shown in the tutorial, rather than treating it as a universal centered pattern.
- In the lower plastic layer, make air holes about 1 cm in diameter. Place them approximately 1.5 cm from the inner square edge and about 5 cm apart, as starting dimensions.
- Cut four larger openings in the upper plastic layer so air from the motor pod can enter the skirt.
- Attach and seal the plastic layers to the cardboard as shown in the project, keeping the skirt distributed evenly around the hull. Inspect it for tears and gaps before powering the craft.
Install steering and set up the radio
A movable cardboard fin provides directional control. A servo moves it through simple linkages. Thorstensson notes that a shorter fin turns faster but is harder to control, so fin size is a handling trade-off rather than a guaranteed performance upgrade.
Rank #2
- 1/350th scale
- Molded in gray plastic
- Assembly instructions printed inside packaging; Paint reference guide on back of packaging
- Authentic decals included
- Paint and glue not included
- Mount the servo and connect its linkage to the fin.
- Disconnect one motor cable before radio setup so the motor cannot run during adjustment.
- Center the transmitter trims, power the radio system, and align the servo and fin with the servo centered. Adjust the linkage so the fin points straight ahead at neutral.
- Unplug the battery before reconnecting the motor cable.
Check balance, airflow and the propeller guard
Before operating the hovercraft, check that the hull sits balanced with its installed components, the skirt inflates evenly, and the steering fin is aligned at neutral. Make sure the propeller guard leaves enough clearance for the motor and propeller; a guard that crowds the propeller can interfere with airflow or movement.
A separate Formula 3 hovercraft guide advises checking that its propeller fits tightly on its adapter and is securely fastened to the motor shaft. That is useful general context from a different design, not a claim that the cardboard build uses the same hardware or enclosure. See the Formula 3 guide for that craft’s distinct construction.
Rank #3
- Smooth Forward, Backward & Turning Control: This paddlewheel toy boat features a remote control that allows it to move forward, backward, and make turns, providing endless fun .
- Easy-to-Assemble Design: Designed with simplicity in mind, this wooden boat comes with pre-cut pieces and clear instructions, making assembly quick and hassle-free for kids and parents alike. No special tools needed!
- Hands-On STEM Learning: As a DIY STEM toy, it encourages kids to build their own paddlewheel boat, fostering creativity, problem-solving skills, and an understanding of mechanical engineering principles.
- Unique Paddlewheel Mechanism: The paddlewheel mechanism provides a unique and exciting way to explore how propulsion works, making it both educational and entertaining.
- Perfect for Water Adventures: Whether in a pool, bathtub, or pond, this remote-controlled boat is ready for action. It’s a great way to combine outdoor play with STEM learning and imaginative fun.
Where to run it—and where not to
The Make: author says the cardboard craft runs well on flat surfaces, tarmac and concrete. The same page claims it can withstand multiple crashes at speeds up to 25 mph (40 km/h), but provides no independent test protocol; that is the author’s claim, not a speed or durability guarantee for every build.
Do not treat the cardboard version as water-ready. The Make: tutorial explicitly says its cardboard base is no good for water and suggests thick packaging foam as an alternative base for water racing. Changing the base does not, by itself, establish that the rest of this land-focused design is suitable for water.
Rank #4
- Dimensions: 34*21*15.5CM. Walking and driving on the frozen lake is the most fun, even if the ice melts and falls into the water, you can still drive normally. On the ice, hovercraft can navigate gracefully.
- Forward/backward/turn left/turn right, omnidirectional control, suitable for beginners and experts.
- On water, ice-land, and lakes, remote control can be used to drive forward, backward, left, and right. The ice walking effect is the best/most interesting.
- Usage time: 20-30 minutes, driving speed: 15KM/h
- Control distance: 15-50 meters
How this skirt differs from other designs
The Make: project uses a taped, two-sheet skirt with an opening and air holes. Other published designs use different construction methods and belong to different craft designs, so their patterns should not be copied onto this small cardboard hull without validation.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- The 2.4G 4-channel remote control+180 motors kit is suitable for RC boats Diy Model boat Spare Parts.
- Four-way eight-button 2.4G remote control kit, including remote control, receiver board and screws 3pcs, suitable for hobbyists or schools to make RC car model boat model! Note: Cannot make airplane model! Power supply: DC 6V for the receiver board, 3V for the remote control. remote control distance: 50-100 meters.
- MULTIFUNCTIONAL BOAT MODEL KIT: The 36mm forward and reverse oars are used, which is great, and with the remote control you can go forward, backward, turn left, turn right!
- You can get 1x 2.4G Remote Control Kit, 2x 180 strong magnetic motor, 2x motor mount, 2x connector (10mm), 2x150mm length shaft, 2x D36 propellers, 2x Bottom plate, 4x Metal connectors, 1x pack of screws.
- 180 motor: 3V-6V strong magnetic RC boat motor, Shaft length is 6.5mm, Shaft diameter is 2mm.
- The custom-skirt guide describes joining plastic panels with a soldering iron and cardboard templates, or sewing fabric panels. It is a separate vented-bag method, not the Make: two-sheet layout. Its instructions say to let welded seams cool before handling. Read the custom vented bag skirt guide.
- The Formula 3 guide uses a different multi-panel trash-bag skirt, with front and rear panels joined to longer side panels. Its advice about sealing, balance, inflation, vibration, surface choice and water testing pertains to that craft; its dimensions and procedures are not established for the Make: cardboard build.
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