A router and flush-trim bit can joint a board edge against a straightedge, but fastening the guide directly to the board may leave marks or holes. WOOD Magazine contributor Richard Ross described another approach: a shop-made jig with movable clamps that hold the workpiece while you route its edge.
How the movable-clamp jig works
Ross made the jig base from 1/2-inch medium-density fiberboard (MDF), routing a series of parallel keyhole slots into it. He wrote, “So I routed a series of parallel keyhole slots in a length of 1/2″ medium-density fiberboard.” The slots provide positions for movable clamping points.
For those points, the setup uses a small base, a toggle clamp, a T-bolt, and a knob. The workpiece is secured to the jig so its edge can be routed without attaching a straightedge directly to the board. Ross described the arrangement as accommodating workpieces of most sizes; that is his description, not a measured capacity specification.
How it differs from the conventional straightedge method
In the conventional approach described by Ross, a straightedge is screwed or clamped to the board, and a router fitted with a flush-trim bit joints the edge against that guide. The jig changes where the clamping happens: instead of fastening the guide to the workpiece, movable clamps hold the workpiece on the slotted base.
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| Approach | How it is held and routed | What the source establishes |
|---|---|---|
| Straightedge on the board | Screw or clamp a straightedge to the board; use a router with a flush-trim bit. | Ross identifies this as the conventional approach and says it can leave marks or holes. |
| Slotted MDF jig | Use movable toggle-clamp assemblies in parallel keyhole slots to hold the workpiece while routing. | Ross describes the design and its purpose, but reports no measured comparison of setup time, edge straightness, or repeatability. |
What to know before building or using one
- The documented base material is 1/2-inch MDF, with parallel keyhole slots.
- The named clamp hardware is a small base, toggle clamp, T-bolt, and knob.
- The account does not provide a complete build plan, slot dimensions, hardware specifications, workpiece thickness range, router model, bit dimensions, or bearing arrangement. Those details must be determined for the particular setup rather than inferred from the description.
- No quantified tests establish that the jig is faster, more accurate, or more repeatable than a straightedge setup. Its stated benefit is avoiding marks or holes associated with fastening the guide to the board.
Source
Richard Ross, “A great route for routing straight edges,” WOOD Magazine, February 20, 2018.
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- Depending on router, base may only connect with 2 or 3 opposing slots.
- Router guide has a large surface area for straight and curved edges for radial cuts
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