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The main exception is a heat pump. With many heat pumps, especially systems that use electric auxiliary heat, a big overnight setback can cause the thermostat to call for backup heat in the morning. That can erase savings quickly. Heat pump homes should usually start with a smaller 2 to 4°F setback, watch runtime and AUX heat history, and adjust from there.
On our job sites, we look at thermostat setbacks as a building-performance issue, not just a thermostat habit. The same 62°F night setting can feel fine in a tight, well-insulated house and miserable in a leaky house with cold bedrooms, undersized ducts, or plumbing in exterior walls. The right answer depends on your equipment, envelope, fuel cost, schedule, and freeze risk.
Quick Recommendation by Heating System
If you want the short version, use the table below. Then fine-tune the number based on comfort, recovery time, and utility use.
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- CUSTOMIZE: Choose to receive change air filter reminders, coordinate with your home decor thanks to the interchangeable decorative accent pieces (comes with white and gray options), and select display settings to optimize this thermostat for home
- SCHEDULE: Personalize programming in 7 day, 5-1-1 day, 5-2 day or 1 week options - there's even a non-programmable option. The RTH22B is a replacement for the RTH5160 for applications up to 2 heat, 2 cool conventional or 2 heat, 1 cool heat pump The RTH22B is a replacement for th the RTH6360 for applications up to 2 heat, 2 cool conventional or 2 heat, 1 cool heat pump
- EXPERIENCE: A large screen and clear font enhance daily use
- INSTALLATION: The Honeywell Home UWP wall plate provides an easy install process and simplifies future device upgrades
- FEATURES: Flexible scheduling, backlit display, custom display settings, change filter reminder, extended 32°F low-heat setpoint, 1-year warranty
| Heating system | Awake setting | Sleeping setting | Pro recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gas, oil, or propane furnace | 67 to 68°F | 60 to 65°F | Usually a good candidate for a 7 to 10°F setback for about 8 hours. |
| Electric furnace or electric baseboard | 67 to 68°F | 60 to 65°F | Setbacks can save energy, but high electric rates make comfort and recovery timing important. |
| Air-source heat pump | 67 to 68°F | 64 to 66°F to start | Use a smaller 2 to 4°F setback first. Watch for AUX heat during morning recovery. |
| Dual-fuel heat pump with gas backup | 67 to 68°F | 63 to 66°F | Works well when balance point and lockout settings are commissioned correctly. |
| Boiler with radiators or radiant floors | 67 to 68°F | 62 to 66°F | Use modest setbacks because recovery can be slow, especially with radiant slabs. |
| Long winter absence | Not occupied | Usually 55 to 60°F minimum | Do not turn heat off. Use a higher setting where pipes run through exterior walls, crawlspaces, garages, or unconditioned spaces. |
The U.S. Department of Energy has long recommended setting the thermostat lower for 8 hours a day, with potential savings up to about 10% per year on heating and cooling. ENERGY STAR also notes that heating and cooling account for almost half of the average U.S. household annual energy bill, more than $900 per year, so thermostat behavior is one of the highest-return changes you can make before replacing equipment.
Why Lowering the Heat at Night Saves Energy
A house loses heat faster when the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is larger. Lower the indoor temperature and you reduce that difference. That means less heat flows through the attic, walls, windows, foundation, and duct leaks overnight.
A common objection is that the furnace has to work harder in the morning and uses back all the energy saved overnight. In a conventional furnace home, that is generally not how the math works. The furnace may run longer during recovery, but the house spent hours losing less heat. You usually still come out ahead.
The comfort problem is real, though. If the house drops from 68 to 60°F and takes 90 minutes to recover, the bedrooms, floors, and furniture may still feel cold when the thermostat says the air is warm again. That is not a thermostat failure. It is often an insulation, air leakage, duct design, or equipment-sizing issue.
We see this often in remodels and additions. A thermostat in the hallway says the house is 68°F, but the north bedroom is 62°F because the room has more exterior wall area, a leaky window, a long duct run, or inadequate return air. In that home, a nighttime setback is still useful, but the building needs attention if comfort matters.
The Best Night Temperature for Most Homes
For most furnace-heated homes in winter, start here:
- Day and evening: 67 to 68°F when people are awake and active.
- Sleeping: 60 to 65°F, depending on bedding, age, health, and bedroom comfort.
- Away for the workday: 60 to 64°F if the home will recover before people return.
- Vacation or multi-day absence: 55 to 60°F for many homes, higher if there is pipe-freeze risk.
Do not make the first change extreme. Drop the nighttime setpoint 2°F at a time for two or three nights. If everyone sleeps well and the house recovers on schedule, drop another 2°F. Stop when comfort, recovery time, and bills are in balance.
For a simple one-week test, hold 68°F during the day and set 62 to 65°F overnight for a conventional furnace. Compare that week against a steady-temperature week. If you have a smart thermostat, look at heating runtime. If you are comparing utility bills, remember that outdoor temperatures matter. A cold week will use more fuel even if your thermostat strategy is better.
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Rank #2
- Before buying, please confirm whether the product is compatible with your system, and check the size of the product to see if it can cover the traces left on the wall of the old thermostat.
- Aowel AW721 non programmable heat pump thermostat for house up to 2 heating and 1 cooling multi-stage systems.
- Compatible with Heat Pump systems (with aux or emergency heat) and Heat Pump (without auxiliary/backup heat) systems, up to 2 Heat/ 1 Cool. 【the Menu Initialize Heat Pump System】
- Compatible with most 24V conventional single-stage systems (i.e. conventional force air, central gas, oil, electric furnaces single-stage system, up to 2 Heat/ 1 Cool ). 【Note: You need to enter the menu and set it to conventional system】
- 【WARNING】1. Does not work with conventional multistage systems, mini split systems and 12v rv thermostats. ( 2. Not compatible with 110-240V electric heat systems (like electric baseboard heat, line voltage, convectors, radiant-ceiling heat).
Local utility rates also change the dollar value of each degree. As of the EIA’s May 2026 Electric Power Monthly release, the average U.S. residential electricity price was about 17.37 cents per kWh. EIA natural gas data showed U.S. residential natural gas around $19.83 per thousand cubic feet in May 2026. Your local rates may be much higher or lower, especially in high-cost electric markets or areas with time-of-use billing.
Heat Pumps Need a Different Strategy
Heat pumps are efficient because they move heat instead of making heat from fuel or electric resistance. But they also recover more gradually than a gas furnace. When the thermostat sees a large temperature gap in the morning, it may bring on auxiliary heat, emergency heat, or the fossil-fuel backup in a dual-fuel system.
Auxiliary electric heat is essentially resistance heat. It can be expensive to run. In an all-electric home, a 7 to 10°F setback that triggers AUX heat every morning can be worse than a smaller setback or a steady setting.
How to Test a Heat Pump Setback
Start with a 2°F setback for several nights. If the house is comfortable and AUX heat does not appear during morning recovery, try 3 or 4°F. Check the thermostat app for labels such as AUX, emergency heat, stage 2 heat, or backup heat. If AUX shows up most mornings, reduce the setback or lengthen the recovery period.
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This is where a good HVAC technician earns the service call. We want the compressor doing most of the work, with backup heat reserved for cold conditions or large loads the heat pump cannot handle. If a thermostat is miswired or configured as a conventional furnace, the operating cost can jump even though the wall control looks modern.
Smart Thermostats: Worth It or Not?
A smart thermostat is not required to save money. A $0 manual setback on an existing thermostat has the highest return if your household follows the schedule. But smart thermostats help when schedules are predictable, people forget to adjust settings, or you want runtime history.
ENERGY STAR says certified smart thermostats save about 8% of heating and cooling bills on average, or roughly $50 per year. Savings can be higher in harsh climates, high-rate utility territories, and homes that were previously held at one temperature all winter. ENERGY STAR and many utilities also offer rebate finders, but availability is ZIP-code-specific. Check your utility and the ENERGY STAR rebate finder before buying.
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| Thermostat option | Typical 2026 cost | Best fit |
|---|---|---|
| Use existing thermostat manually | $0 | Highest ROI if someone reliably changes settings. |
| Basic manual or simple programmable thermostat | $20 to $80 hardware | Simple furnace systems and homeowners who do not need app control. |
| Programmable thermostat installed | $85 to $300 common range; about $200 typical project | Set-it-and-forget-it scheduling without smart-home features. |
| Smart or Wi-Fi thermostat installed | $185 to $600 common installed range | Runtime history, remote control, reminders, adaptive recovery, and utility programs. |
| C-wire or wiring add-on | $50 to $150 simple add-on; $90 to $135 commonly cited for new C-wire work | Needed when the thermostat requires continuous 24V power and existing cable lacks a common wire. |
Costs vary with the number of thermostats, zones, wall location, wiring complexity, local labor, and system type. A simple 24V furnace thermostat is very different from a line-voltage baseboard thermostat, boiler control, millivolt fireplace control, multi-stage heat pump, zoned system, or dual-fuel setup.
Rank #3
- Simple Manual Operation: Heagstat H725 2 Heat/1 Cool Heat Pump Thermostat, 5-1-1Day Programmable (Separate programs for the weekdays and weekends with 4 program periods per day including wake, leave, return and sleep). The user-friendly design is easy to operate for people of all ages
- System Compatibility: Works with 2H/1C heat pump systems (with Aux or Emergency heating). Emergency heating requires manual switch, NOT automatic. It supports up to 2 heating stage and 1 cooling stage. Please confirm your home HVAC system type before purchase to ensure full compatibility
- System Limitations: This unit does NOT work with 2H/2C, 3H/2C, 4H/2C Multi-Stage Systems & Heat Pump Systems, PTAC units (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners), 3-wire hydronic hot water heating systems, dual fuel/hybrid heating systems, 120-240V line voltage systems and electric baseboard heaters, mini-split heat pump air conditioners, and RV air conditioners (Mach/Roughneck series)
- Dual power supply design runs on 24VAC hardwired power or 2 AAA batteries (batteries not included). Equipped with standard R, W/E, W2, Y, O, B, G, C terminals. Wire Specs: Use 18-22 gauge thermostat wire. Shielded wire is not required. Easy DIY installation without professional help. It does not support Y2, W3, W4, L, ACC+, ACC-, S, X and X2 terminals
- Clear & Easy-to-Read Display: Minimalist off-white body matches most home interior styles. The 4.5 sq inch backlit LCD screen delivers clear visibility under all lighting conditions. Compact dimension: 0.98 inches D x 4.72 inches W x 3.86 inches H, allowing flexible wall mounting
When to DIY vs When to Hire a Pro
DIY is reasonable when you already have a standard low-voltage 24V thermostat, the system is a simple single-stage furnace and air conditioner, the wiring labels are clear, and you are comfortable turning power off before touching the control wiring. Take a photo before removing the old thermostat. Label every wire. Mount the new base level and tight to the wall so room air, not wall-cavity air, reaches the sensor.
Hire a pro when the system is a heat pump, dual-fuel, multi-stage, zoned, boiler, radiant, line-voltage, or millivolt system. Also call a pro if there is no C-wire, the wire colors do not match the terminals, the old thermostat used jumper wires you do not understand, the equipment short-cycles after installation, or the new thermostat shows AUX heat unexpectedly.
Permits depend on the jurisdiction and scope. Many cities allow simple like-for-like thermostat replacement without a building permit, but electrical or HVAC permits may apply when new wiring, line-voltage controls, equipment changes, or control-panel work are involved. Chicago and Atlanta guidance both show that some small repair or replacement work may be exempt, but local rules control. If the project touches line voltage, adds new cable through finished walls, or changes HVAC controls, ask the local building department or use a licensed contractor.
Do not treat thermostat work as harmless just because the wire is small. Low-voltage shorts can damage a control board. Line-voltage electric baseboard thermostats can shock or start a fire if installed incorrectly. A bad heat pump setup can lock out efficient compressor operation and run expensive backup heat.
Comfort Problems That a Setback Can Reveal
A nighttime setback is a useful test of the house. If a modest 4 to 6°F setback causes one room to become freezing, the problem is usually not the schedule. It is the building or mechanical system.
Air Leakage and Insulation
Warm air escaping through attic penetrations, recessed lights, top plates, chimney chases, rim joists, and leaky ducts pulls cold air into the house. Air sealing and attic insulation reduce overnight heat loss, which lets the house coast longer and recover faster. Weatherstripping exterior doors and sealing obvious gaps around penetrations are low-cost starting points.
Duct Design and Airflow
If the furnace runs but bedrooms lag behind, look at supply registers, return paths, filter condition, blower speed, duct leakage, and duct insulation. A dirty filter or weak airflow can make a system run longer without delivering heat where it is needed. Ducts in unconditioned attics or crawlspaces can lose a surprising amount of heat before it reaches the room.
Equipment Condition
A furnace that cannot recover from a reasonable setback may need maintenance. In 2026, a typical gas or propane furnace tune-up often runs about $80 to $170. Average furnace repair costs commonly fall around $125 to $480, depending on the part and labor. Dirty burners, weak ignition, incorrect gas pressure, failing capacitors, poor blower operation, or safety-control problems can all show up as slow recovery.
Rank #4
- Installation Caution: Buyers should carefully review the detailed installation and wiring instructions in the images before making a purchase. It is advisable to proceed with caution if you do not have prior installation experience to prevent issues such as malfunction and incompatibility due to purchasing the wrong item.
- Suuwer S725 5-1-1 Day programmable heat pump thermostat for house, up to 2 heating and 1 cooling multi-stage systems. Display with blue backlight, large clear backlit digital display, very suitable for middle-aged and elderly people.
- System Compatibility: Compatible with Heat Pump systems (with aux or emergency heat) and Heat Pump (without aux) systems. Compatible with most 24V conventional single-stage systems (i.e. conventional force air, central gas, oil, or electric furnaces single-stage systems) up to 2 heat 1 cool.
- System Incompatibility: Not compatible with 110-240V electric heat systems (like electric baseboard heat, line voltage, convectors, radiant-ceiling heat). Does not work with conventional multistage systems (2H/2C 3H/2C 4H/2H), and mini split systems and 12v rv thermostats.
- Flexible Programming Options: Heat pump 5-1-1 day programmable thermostat with separate programs for the weekdays and weekends with 4 program periods per day including wake, leave, return and sleep.
Do not keep lowering the thermostat to chase savings if the system is short-cycling, making new noises, tripping breakers, showing flame rollout, producing unusual odors, or failing to maintain safe indoor temperature. Fix the mechanical problem first.
Safety Limits: Turn Heat Down, Not Off
The useful winter rule is to turn heat down, not off. For many occupied homes, do not let the interior drop below about 55°F. The International Energy Conservation Code language for programmable thermostats references setback capability down to 55°F and setup capability up to 85°F, which lines up with common field practice for freeze protection. That does not mean 55°F is safe for every house.
Pipe-freeze risk depends on where the pipes run. Plumbing in exterior walls, above garages, in crawlspaces, in unconditioned basements, near rim joists, or behind poorly insulated cabinets is more vulnerable. During a hard freeze or extended power outage, even a 55°F thermostat setting may not protect a cold corner where pipes are isolated from room heat.
If you travel in winter, set the thermostat high enough for the riskiest plumbing, not just the hallway sensor. Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls, keep interior doors open, seal crawlspace vents where appropriate, and have someone check the house during severe weather. Smart leak sensors and low-temperature alerts are cheap compared with a burst pipe.
Warm-climate homes have a different concern in shoulder seasons: humidity. If you use aggressive setbacks or shut equipment off in humid weather, indoor relative humidity can rise enough to encourage musty odors and mold growth. In those climates, thermostat scheduling should work with humidity control, ventilation, and air-conditioning runtime.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How to Program the Schedule
Do not crank the thermostat to 75°F because you want the house to warm faster. Most systems heat at the same output whether the thermostat is set to 68 or 75°F. A higher setpoint usually just makes the system run longer, overshoot comfort, and waste energy. With heat pumps, it can also trigger backup heat.
For a conventional furnace, schedule the recovery 30 to 60 minutes before wake-up and adjust after a few mornings. Leaky homes, older ducts, and very cold outdoor temperatures may need more time. For radiant floors or cast-iron radiator systems, recovery can take hours, so use smaller setbacks and earlier recovery.
For a heat pump, use adaptive recovery if the thermostat is properly configured for heat pump operation. If the app shows AUX heat during recovery, reduce the setback or begin recovery earlier. Ask an HVAC pro about compressor lockout and auxiliary lockout settings if the system seems to use backup heat too often.
For time-of-use electric rates or demand charges, the cheapest schedule may not be the same as the lowest-energy schedule. Some homes benefit from preheating slightly before peak pricing and then letting the temperature drift a few degrees during the expensive window. Do not do this in a way that risks pipes, poor sleep, or heat pump AUX operation.
Best Value
- · Not Compatible: Two transformer systems, Conventional multi-stage systems, Dual fuel/hybrid heating, Electric baseboard heat (110-240 volts), Line voltage, Convectors, Radiant-ceiling heat, Mini split systems and 12V RV systems.
- · Easy to Install and Use: Large terminal blocks with universal sub-base, can be installed within 30 minutes, clear, easy-to-read backlight LCD display and easy controls make for a user-friendly experience.
- · Factory Pre-set Energy-efficiency Program: 7-day, 5/1/1 easy-to-understand programming menus, flexible programming lets you sync your comfort with your schedule.
- · Simple but Powerful Control: Easy-access front-load battery compartment, adjustable temperature differential (swing) for energy optimization and maximum system life, Support temperature
- · High Compatibility: Heat pump multi-stage systems or conventional single-stage systems, Forced air (gas, oil or electric), Electric furnace, Hot water steam or gravity radiant heat, Heat only systems, Heat pump w/o or with auxiliary or emergency heat, Millivolt conventional systems, Gas fireplaces (24V), Floor or wall furnaces, Cool only systems.(TIP: Before purchasing, check to see if this thermostat is compatible with your system.)
Bottom Line: The Pro Answer
For most homes with a conventional furnace, lowering the heat at night is worth doing. Start around 68°F when awake and 62 to 65°F while sleeping. If comfort is good, test a lower setting in 2°F steps. Do not turn the heat off, and be careful below 55 to 60°F during absences because pipe location matters more than the thermostat number.
For heat pumps, be more conservative. Start with a 2 to 4°F setback, review thermostat history, and avoid a schedule that brings on AUX heat every morning. A heat pump that is commissioned well can be economical and comfortable, but the thermostat has to be matched to the equipment.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Is it cheaper to turn the heat down at night or keep it at one temperature?
For most gas, oil, propane, and electric-resistance heating systems, it is cheaper to turn the heat down at night. A 7 to 10 degree setback for about 8 hours can reduce annual heating and cooling costs by up to about 10%. Heat pumps are the main exception because large setbacks can trigger costly auxiliary heat.
What temperature should I set my thermostat to while sleeping in winter?
A good starting point is 60 to 65 degrees F for homes with conventional furnaces, with 67 to 68 degrees F when awake. Heat pump homes should usually start closer to 64 to 66 degrees F at night and adjust after checking whether AUX heat runs during recovery.
How low can I set the heat before pipes freeze?
Many homes use 55 to 60 degrees F as a minimum winter absence setting, but 55 degrees F is not safe for every house. Use a higher setting if pipes run through exterior walls, crawlspaces, garages, attics, rim joists, or other unconditioned spaces.
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Does setting the thermostat higher make the house warm up faster?
Usually no. Most furnaces heat at the same rate whether the thermostat is set to 68 or 75 degrees F. The higher setting makes the system run longer and may overshoot. With heat pumps, a large setpoint jump can also bring on auxiliary heat.
Is a smart thermostat worth it in 2026?
Often, yes, if it is compatible with the HVAC system and used correctly. ENERGY STAR-certified smart thermostats save about 8% of heating and cooling bills on average, or roughly $50 per year. Installed smart thermostat projects commonly run about $185 to $600 before any utility rebate.
Do I need a permit or electrician to replace a thermostat?
A simple like-for-like low-voltage thermostat replacement often does not require a permit, but local rules vary. Hire a pro for line-voltage controls, new wiring, heat pumps, dual-fuel systems, boilers, radiant systems, zoned systems, or any installation that changes HVAC or electrical controls.
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