A plunge router and a stable, shop-built jig can cut matching mortises for a loose-tenon joint without a dedicated joiner. The method is adaptable, but it depends on accurate layout, secure clamping, and test cuts. Here’s how to make the joint, size its parts, and decide whether a router jig, drill-powered mortising jig, or dedicated joiner suits your work.
How a loose-tenon joint works
A loose-tenon joint uses a separate piece of wood to connect two workpieces. Each piece receives a mortise, and the tenon fits into both. Unlike a traditional mortise-and-tenon joint, the tenon is not cut as part of either workpiece. The method is also called floating-tenon joinery. WOOD Magazine and Woodcraft describe cutting the matching mortises with the same machine or jig so the separate tenon bridges the joint.
Cut matching mortises with a plunge router
A router jig supports and guides the plunge router while the workpiece is held in position. WOOD Magazine’s method uses a spiral upcut bit, layout marks, stopblocks, and test cuts in scrap that matches the project stock. The bit cuts as it plunges and carries chips up and out of the mortise. Make several progressively deeper passes rather than trying to reach full depth at once.
- Lay out both parts from a common reference. Mark the mating workpieces so the mortises will align when the joint is assembled. Keep track of which faces and edges are intended to remain flush.
- Secure the workpiece and set the stops. Clamp the part firmly in the jig. Set the router bit depth and the stops that control mortise length before cutting.
- Test the setup in matching scrap. Use scrap with the same thickness and, where practical, the same species as the project. Check the mortise’s width, length, depth, and position against the tenon and the mating part.
- Rout in staged passes. Plunge gradually, increasing the depth in successive passes until you reach the target. Keep the router guided by the jig and the workpiece clamped throughout.
- Dry-fit before applying glue. Insert the tenon and bring the parts together. Correct any fit or alignment problem before glue-up; the faces and edges should meet as intended.
- Glue and assemble. Brush glue into the mortises, insert the tenon, and bring the parts together while checking that their faces and edges stay flush. Chamfering the tenon ends can ease insertion; making the tenon slightly narrower than the mortise can leave some room for adjustment during assembly.
Choose mortise and tenon dimensions
Woodcraft offers these rules of thumb for loose-tenon sizing. They are guidelines, not universal design requirements; confirm the fit with test cuts using the actual stock, bit, and jig.
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| Feature | Woodcraft guideline | Practical check |
|---|---|---|
| Mortise width | Use the bit size; aim for about one-third the thickness of the thinnest mating piece. | Check the resulting wall thickness and tenon fit in scrap. |
| Mortise length | About two-thirds the width of the narrower mating piece. | Confirm that the mortise leaves adequate material around it for the joint and workpiece. |
| Mortise depth | As deep as practical for the bit, with at least 1/16 inch extra beyond half the tenon length. | Verify that the tenon can seat without bottoming out before the joint closes. |
These proportions come from Woodcraft’s loose-tenon guidance, published April 10, 2009, with the page reporting an update on May 6, 2026. Treat them as starting points rather than a substitute for a test fit.
Choose the right mortising approach
The main trade-off is between flexible, shop-built setup and the convenience of a purpose-built tool. Compare the equipment you already own, the time needed to set up, the mortise sizes and shapes required, and the compatible tenons available for the system.
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| Approach | What it offers | What to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Plunge router and shop-built jig | Adaptable to the router and project; uses a guided router and suitable bit. | You must build and align the jig, clamp the work securely, and validate the setup with test cuts. |
| Drill-powered commercial mortising jig | An alternative if you do not have a plunge router or prefer not to build a jig. Woodcraft describes the JessEm Zip Slot Mortise Mill. | Woodcraft’s article reports that the Pocket version cuts 1/4-inch-wide mortises and that the standard version offers several width choices. Verify current model specifications and compatible tenons before buying. |
| Dedicated Domino joiner | A purpose-built joiner cuts mortises for shaped, compatible loose tenons. The sources describe speed and accuracy advantages. | Mortise settings and tenon sizing are system-specific, and the available settings may be limited. Compare the current models, mortise range, compatible tenons, cost, and how often you will use the tool. |
Current prices and availability for these options are not established here. Product details can change, so check the maker’s current specifications before selecting a system.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Make or buy the loose tenons
Shop-made tenons let you size the stock to your test mortise. WOOD Magazine describes using hardwood stock, fitting its thickness to the mortise, rounding the long edges to match the mortise ends, and cutting the pieces to length while leaving room for glue.
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Pre-made tenons are another option, particularly when using a dedicated mortising system. Check dimensions and system compatibility before purchase; tenons made for different systems should not be assumed interchangeable.
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