Choose a picture frame by matching its opening to the item, then decide whether you need a mat, what glazing suits the artwork, and how the completed frame will be supported. A ready-made frame can work for an ordinary print; valuable or fragile works on paper need closer attention to the mat, backing, mounting and light exposure.
How to choose the right frame size
Check what a frame listing means by its dimensions before buying. The measurement may describe the frame opening, the included mat window, or the outside of the frame. Measure the item itself and check whether the mat will cover a border, signature or part of the image.
The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) lists 8×10, 10×12, 14×18, 16×22, 22×28 and 28×36 inches as common pre-cut sizes. These are examples, not a complete list of available sizes or a guarantee of current retail stock. A ready-made frame in a matching size may suit an ordinary print, but confirm its opening and included components before purchase.
When to use a mat or spacer
A mat creates visual separation and helps keep the paper from touching the glazing. For works on paper, a mat or another spacer also provides breathing room; direct contact with glazing can contribute to transfer, staining or mold. With friable or flaking media, contact can transfer or adhere pigment.
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For preservation framing, the materials touching or supporting the object matter. The Library of Congress recommends cotton-rag or chemically purified, lignin-free wood-pulp matboard that is pH-neutral or slightly alkaline, and at least four-ply board in its described package. Its matting and framing guidance also advises that linen hinging tape should not touch the object.
The National Archives recommends cotton-rag or 100% chemically purified pulp matboard that is buffered or pH-neutral/acid-free. For photographs, it recommends board that passes the Photographic Activity Test. Its family-archive display guidance describes Japanese-paper hinges with wheat-starch paste or methyl cellulose, as well as non-adhesive paper or inert-plastic corners.
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Glass or acrylic: which glazing fits?
Neither material is best in every situation. Glass is heavier and brittle, but relatively scratch-resistant and carries little electrostatic charge. Acrylic is lighter and less breakable, but scratches more readily, may bow in large sheets and can build static that attracts particles from friable media.
| Glazing | Useful characteristics | Trade-offs and cautions |
|---|---|---|
| Glass | Relatively scratch-resistant; little electrostatic charge | Heavier and brittle |
| Acrylic | Lighter and less breakable | Scratches more readily; may bow in large sheets; static may attract loose media |
For pastels, charcoal, chalk or other powdery or flaking media, avoid glazing that can build static near the surface; the National Archives specifically cautions against acrylic for such materials. Keep the work from touching either type of glazing by using a mat or spacer. CCI’s glazing guidance covers these material trade-offs.
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What UV-filtering glazing can—and cannot—do
UV-filtering glass or acrylic can reduce ultraviolet exposure, but it does not eliminate all light-related damage. Visible light as well as ultraviolet light can cause fading, darkening and other changes. For family archival originals, the National Archives says the best protection from light is to display copies and keep originals stored. If you display an original, avoid daylight and fluorescent lighting and limit both light intensity and exposure time.
CCI cites 75 microwatts per lumen as a UV threshold in its museum or gallery guidance for when to use UV-filtering glazing if windows and lights lack UV filters. That is a source-specific technical threshold, not a general home-display guarantee. CCI also notes that UV filtering does not remove all harmful UV; its guidance on glazing treats it as one part of managing UV and light levels.
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- Convenient Tabletop Stand：Each frame includes pre-installed stand legs and wall hooks for immediate tabletop or hanging use. Acid-free matting protects cherished memories
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Check the mat, backing and frame construction
“Ready-made” does not mean “archival.” Florida’s Division of Library and Information Services notes that premade frames can be useful but cautions that their supplied mats and backs may not be suitable for preservation framing. For a valuable or fragile object, check the materials and construction rather than assuming included parts are protective.
For paper artifacts, CCI advises against backing boards such as masonite, corrugated cardboard and wood because acids and resins may migrate. It recommends enough rabbet depth for the glazing, mat and backing—about 2 cm total in its note—and a package that fits snugly but not tightly. It discourages sandwiching an artifact between glass and a board held by clips: exposed edges admit dust and pollution, while the package can put pressure on the object. See CCI’s framing guidance for works of art on paper.
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Florida’s archival guidance discusses wood and metal frames, noting that hardwoods contain fewer acids than softwoods, advising against wood frames for long-term display or storage of valuable art or photographs, and considering all types of metal acceptable in its preservation context. This is context-specific conservation advice, not a general ranking of every modern frame’s durability or appearance. Read Florida’s guidance on choosing a frame for its stated context.
Hang the complete frame for its weight and wall
Choose hanging hardware for the weight of the assembled frame, including glazing, mat, backing and artwork. CCI says picture wire must be strong enough for the full framed package and describes a wall hook engaging screw eyes in the frame as a more secure method. Match the wall fastener to both the wall construction and the total load; the cited guidance does not specify one anchor for every wall type.
Quick Recap
Care for the frame and choose its location
- Remove dust periodically with a soft brush or lint-free cloth.
- Uncoated plastic glazing scratches more easily than glass. Avoid rough paper towels and abrasive detergents, and follow the manufacturer’s directions for coated glazing.
- If using liquid cleaner, remove the glazing first where feasible or spray the cloth rather than the glazing so liquid does not reach the mat or artwork.
- For preservation-framed objects, the Library of Congress advises avoiding direct sun and intense light, fireplaces, radiators, vents, and damp or environmentally extreme places such as attics and basements. It favors interior walls and keeping objects off the floor.
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