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Buy the tank only after you have matched three things: the water you can reliably collect or supply, the amount and quality your household or farm actually needs, and a site that can safely support and connect a full tank. Capacity, material, foundation, plumbing, water-quality protection and local approvals are one system; choosing a container first is how owners end up with inadequate storage, unusable pressure, contaminated water or expensive rework.
Start with the water source and the jobs the tank must do
Write down every proposed source and end use before comparing tank models. A home tank may receive roof runoff and supply toilet flushing, laundry, gardens or the whole house. A farm tank may be filled from a roof, dam, bore or piped supply and feed stock troughs, irrigation, equipment washing or a dwelling. Those uses have different demand, pressure, filtration and water-quality requirements.
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Identify the source and its reliability
- Record whether water comes from a roof catchment, mains or piped supply, bore, dam, stream or another source.
- Describe how the source changes through the year. Average rainfall can conceal long dry periods, while a bore or mains connection may have interruptions, pumping limits or quality changes.
- Check whether the source is legally and physically available at the proposed tank location, including any pump, meter, pipe and power requirements.
- For farm sources, arrange testing for salinity, pH, algae, organic matter and relevant chemicals before deciding that the water is suitable for livestock, irrigation or equipment.
Separate uses that must not share water
Do not assume water suitable for one purpose is suitable for another. Livestock, crop irrigation, chemical mixing, machinery washing and household drinking can require different treatment and controls. Healthy WA specifically warns that water used to mix crop-spraying chemicals should be kept separate from drinking water, and that spraying equipment should never be used to top up a drinking-water tank because residues may remain.
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Decide whether the tank is a short-term buffer, a seasonal reserve, a backup during mains outages or the primary supply. Also decide which fixtures must operate at the same time, whether a pump is acceptable, and how much water must remain in reserve for a dry spell, fire condition or livestock emergency. These decisions determine usable capacity, outlet arrangement and controls more accurately than a household-size label.
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Size capacity from demand, catchment and reliability
There is no universal home or farm tank size. The correct volume is the result of demand over the period you need to bridge, the amount of water that can reach the tank, source reliability and the reserve you want after seasonal losses.
Calculate household demand by use
List expected daily or weekly consumption for each connected use rather than multiplying a generic number of occupants by a generic tank size. Include toilet flushing, clothes washing, showers or kitchen use if permitted, cleaning, garden irrigation and any other regular draw. Then model the longest likely dry interval and retain a reserve instead of designing only for average conditions.
YourHome, an Australian Government household guide, gives an illustrative catchment relationship: 1 mm of rainfall falling on 1 m² of roof area yields 1 L of water before system losses. In practice, roof material, gutter condition, filters, first-flush diversion and overflow reduce the amount that reaches storage. Measure the roof area that actually drains to the tank and use the local rainfall pattern, not an annual average alone.
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YourHome publishes the following examples for a four-person household with mains water and evenly distributed rainfall. They are Australian guidance examples, not guarantees of year-round supply and not farm-sizing rules:
| Connected use | Illustrative capacity | Qualification |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet flushing and a small garden | 2,000–3,000 L | Four people, mains water and evenly spread rainfall in the YourHome example |
| Toilet flushing, clothes washing and a small garden | 3,000–5,000 L | Same illustrative household and rainfall assumptions |
| Whole-of-house supply | 5,000–20,000 L | Same illustrative assumptions; much larger storage is typically needed where rainfall is highly seasonal or mains water is unavailable |
Do not copy one of these ranges without checking your roof area, rainfall distribution, occupancy, irrigation demand and desired security. A larger tank cannot create water when the source is unreliable; it only stores more of the water that arrives.
Size a farm system for difficult seasons
For farms, calculate daily, weekly and seasonal demand separately for stock, domestic use and irrigation. Include the number and type of animals, peak watering periods, trough refill rates, irrigation schedules, evaporation or leakage risks and any future herd, acreage or enterprise changes. NSW Government guidance recommends testing demand under difficult seasonal conditions and checking both source reliability and fitness for the intended purpose.
Estimate the amount available from each source during the same period. A roof may provide abundant water in storms but little during a dry season; a bore may be dependable but limited by yield, salinity or power; a dam can be affected by evaporation and contamination. Use the least reliable period that the tank is expected to cover, and document the assumptions so the design can be updated when the property changes.
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Allow for unusable volume and reserve
The nominal tank volume is not always usable. Sediment, the outlet height, pump protection, a required emergency reserve and the level at which air enters a suction line all reduce available water. Ask the installer for the effective operating volume and the low-level cutoff, then decide how much reserve must remain for drinking, stock or emergency use.
Confirm water quality before choosing a material or label
Material is a water-quality decision as well as a price, weight and durability decision. For drinking water, every wetted component matters: the tank body or liner, inlet and outlet fittings, pipes, valves, seals, screens and treatment equipment.
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Drinking-water suitability is a complete-system question
Ask the supplier for current documentation that the complete product and its water-contact components are intended for drinking-water use in your jurisdiction. NSW Health says rainwater-tank materials are suitable when manufactured specifically for rainwater collection and are preferably tested to AS/NZS 4020; it also identifies AS 2070 for plastics. Standards and legal requirements vary and can change, so request the applicable declarations rather than relying on a sales phrase such as potable.
Rainwater quality can be affected by roof and tank materials, paints, atmospheric contaminants, leaves, dust and bird or animal droppings. NHMRC guidance says a reasonably maintained rainwater system can generally provide safe drinking water, while advising householders to satisfy themselves that the supply is safe and to consider testing for locally relevant health characteristics. Surface water and shallow groundwater should not be assumed safe to drink without appropriate treatment.
Protect the tank from light, insects and debris
An opaque tank helps exclude light and limit algae growth. NSW Health recommends fine insect-proof screens on inlets and overflows, regular screen checks, sealed access covers and an access opening large enough for inspection and cleaning. A potable-water label does not remove the need to protect and maintain the roof, gutters, tank and connected plumbing.
Compare materials against the actual site
The common choices listed by YourHome are polyethylene plastic, fibreglass, concrete and steel. None is best for every property. Compare the following characteristics with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and the local environment.
| Material | Useful characteristics | Questions to resolve before ordering |
|---|---|---|
| Polyethylene plastic | Relatively lightweight and generally inexpensive; often straightforward to deliver and position above ground | Is the colour opaque enough for light control? Is the model rated for the intended water, temperature, exposure and installation? What base and lifting limits apply? |
| Fibreglass | Common tank material with its own weight, handling and installation characteristics | Is the resin and any internal finish approved for the intended water contact? Can the site accept the delivery vehicle and required support? |
| Concrete | Strong and described by YourHome as having the best bushfire resistance among the listed options | Can the site support the full load and construction access? Are the internal surfaces and fittings suitable for drinking water? What curing, sealing and maintenance are required? |
| Steel | Strong and available in custom sizes | Does the supplier require a slab, pavers or a stand? How will corrosion protection, liner compatibility, bushfire exposure and water-contact certification be handled? |
Also compare above-ground and underground installation. Underground storage can preserve surface space but usually needs excavation, safe access, buoyancy and structural checks, and more complex maintenance access. Above-ground tanks simplify visual inspection and some repairs but require a suitable footprint, delivery route and protection from impact or heat. Use the manufacturer’s stated limits rather than assuming that a material is suitable simply because another model of the same material is.
Prove the location works when the tank is full
Inspect the proposed site with the tank’s full weight, not its empty delivery weight. Water weighs approximately 1 kg per litre, so a 5,000 L tank contains roughly 5 tonnes of water before the tank, fittings and support are counted. The foundation must transfer that load safely to the ground.
Check the foundation and surrounding structures
- Obtain the manufacturer’s requirements for a slab, compacted base, pavers, stand or other support, including level tolerances and drainage.
- Have the ground and foundation checked for settlement, erosion, soft spots and bearing capacity where the tank is large, elevated or installed on difficult soil.
- Keep fences, posts, retaining structures and buildings from carrying the filled-tank load unless they were specifically engineered for it. NSW installation guidance warns that nearby structures must not support the tank when full.
- Allow room for the tank to expand as specified, for pipe flexibility and for safe inspection around the base.
Verify delivery, maintenance and overflow access
Measure gates, turns, overhead clearances, slopes and the route from the delivery vehicle to the pad. Confirm the tank’s diameter, height and lifting points, not just its stated capacity. Leave enough access to clean screens, open inspection covers, service pumps and remove sediment. Route overflow to a safe discharge point that will not undermine the foundation, flood a building, cross a property boundary or create an erosion hazard.
Use shade and separation intelligently
Shade can reduce heat exposure and help protect water quality where the site allows it, but trees can add leaves, roots and difficult maintenance. Keep overhanging vegetation away from roof catchments where possible, and separate the tank from fuel, chemicals, septic systems, animal waste and vehicle-impact zones. Check bushfire exposure and the local authority’s fire-water requirements before selecting a material or location.
Design the inlet, outlet, pump and pipes as one system
A tank that fits the site can still fail if its connections cannot deliver the required flow. Draw the route from each source to the tank and from the tank to every end use. Mark elevations, pipe lengths, bends, valves, filters, pump position, electrical supply and isolation points.
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Check gravity pressure before omitting a pump
Gravity pressure depends on the vertical difference between the water level and the fixture, not merely on the tank’s volume. YourHome notes that a tank more than 15 m higher than the house may be needed for pressure sufficient for all domestic uses; below that height, pressure may not suit some fixtures or appliances. Treat this as guidance, not a substitute for a plumber’s calculation of flow, friction losses and appliance requirements.
Select farm pumps and pipe diameters for distance and flow
NSW farm guidance recommends choosing pump type and pipe diameters based on distance, elevation and required flow rate. Include simultaneous trough demand, irrigation outlets, pressure switches, storage at remote points and the consequences of a power failure. Locate troughs where livestock can use them safely and where muddy approaches, contamination and vehicle access can be managed. Positioning storage to support gravity flow can reduce pumping costs where terrain permits.
Specify fittings and isolation points
- Use screened, sealed inlets and overflows appropriate to the water and local pest conditions.
- Provide an isolation valve at the tank outlet and accessible valves at major branches so one repair does not disable the whole property.
- Protect pumps from running dry and include a low-level cutoff or equivalent control where required by the pump design.
- Confirm pipe materials, liners, sealants and valves are compatible with drinking water when that is an end use.
- Include backflow protection or separation where mains, chemicals or other supplies could contaminate the tank or public network.
Build a clean rainwater catchment system
For roof runoff, the tank is only the final storage component. The roof, gutters, leaf controls, first-flush device, inlet screen and overflow determine what enters it.
Prepare the roof and gutters
Before commissioning, clean the roof and gutters and remove accumulated dust, leaves and droppings. Keep overhanging vegetation trimmed where practical. YourHome recommends a good leaf screen or leaf-shedding rain head; install the rain head high enough to work with the tank inlet while leaving it accessible for cleaning.
Install a first-flush diverter where appropriate
The first runoff after a dry period can carry dust and bird droppings. YourHome describes a first-flush diverter as a device that intercepts this initial water and recommends one for drinking-water systems. Its typical sizing figure is about 10 L diverted per 50 m² of roof area. Treat that as a starting point: confirm the design for your roof, rainfall, device type and local requirements. A diverter improves collection hygiene but is not a disinfection system.
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Use fine insect-proof screens on inlets and overflows, inspect them regularly and make sure blocked screens cannot force water into the building or undermine the base. Seal access covers against insects and animals while retaining a safe, practical opening for inspection and cleaning.
Set a maintenance schedule before commissioning
Maintenance is part of the purchase decision. Ask who will clean, inspect and service each component, how it can be reached safely and what replacement parts cost. YourHome’s schedule recommends:
| Interval | Tasks in the YourHome guidance |
|---|---|
| Monthly | Check and clean inlet and outlet screens, leaf-shedding rain heads and first-flush diverters |
| Annually | Inspect the roof, gutters and filters |
| Every 3–5 years | Desludge the tank, with timing adjusted to actual sediment accumulation and system advice |
| Approximately every 10 years | Expect rainwater pumps may need servicing or replacement; follow the pump maker’s requirements |
These are source-specific recommendations, not a guarantee for every installation. Follow the tank, pump and treatment manufacturers’ instructions and local health advice. Keep a log of inspections, cleaning, water tests, repairs and changes to connected uses.
Check approvals and local rules before paying a deposit
Rules depend on the property’s location and the connection to other systems. Ask the relevant local government, building department, plumbing authority, water utility or fire authority whether the proposal requires:
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- development, building or planning approval;
- boundary, height, appearance or setback compliance;
- specific foundation, anchoring or bushfire protection;
- plumbing permits, backflow prevention or separation from mains water;
- potable-water materials, testing or treatment;
- approved overflow disposal, stormwater connection or excavation controls; and
- dedicated fire-water storage or minimum reserve.
Do not export one jurisdiction’s rule to another. For example, a provision in Kenya’s 2021 Water Services Regulations legal notice describes storage capacity equivalent to seven days’ average building water demand. That is a Kenya-specific legal requirement in the cited provision, not a universal design recommendation. Australian guidance from YourHome, NSW authorities, NHMRC and Healthy WA likewise needs to be checked against the rules where your property is located.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Compare the total installed system, not the tank price
Request an itemised quotation that separates the tank from the work needed to make it operate. Include the foundation or excavation, delivery and crane access, roof and gutter changes, leaf screens, first-flush equipment, filters, pumps, controls, pipes, valves, electrical work, overflow drainage, testing, permits and commissioning. A cheaper tank can cost more if it needs a special stand, difficult access or long pipe runs.
Ask the supplier to state the nominal and usable volume, dimensions, empty and full weights, warranty conditions, approved water types, installation limits, required base, connection sizes, inspection opening, overflow size, replacement parts and cleaning method. Obtain drawings showing inlet, outlet, overflow and pump penetrations before the pad or pipework is built.
A purchase checklist you can take to the supplier
- Describe the use. List every household, stock, irrigation, equipment and emergency use, and identify any drinking-water connection.
- Document demand. Calculate daily, weekly and seasonal requirements, including difficult dry-period conditions and future expansion.
- Measure supply. Record roof catchment area, rainfall distribution, source yield, water quality and likely system losses.
- Choose effective capacity. Account for sediment, low-level cutoffs, reserve volume and the longest period the tank must bridge.
- Shortlist materials. Compare polyethylene, fibreglass, concrete and steel for water-contact suitability, weight, bushfire context, durability and installation requirements.
- Survey the site. Confirm delivery route, footprint, height, full-load foundation, shade, maintenance clearance and safe overflow disposal.
- Draw the network. Size pumps and pipes for distance, elevation, flow and simultaneous demand; include isolation valves, backflow protection and future branches.
- Specify catchment controls. Include clean gutters, leaf screening, insect-proof inlet and overflow screens, sealed access and a correctly sized first-flush diverter where needed.
- Verify approvals. Obtain written guidance from the local authorities and utility before ordering or excavating.
- Price the whole installation. Compare itemised, installed quotations and confirm who is responsible for commissioning, testing, maintenance and warranty service.
Common buying mistakes and how to prevent them
Choosing by household label alone
A label such as small, family or farm does not reveal roof area, rainfall seasonality, stock numbers, irrigation demand or reserve expectations. Use a demand-and-supply calculation and document the assumptions.
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Ignoring the full-tank load
A base that supports an empty tank may fail under tonnes of stored water. Obtain the full operating weight and the specified foundation design before delivery.
Assuming potable means safe forever
Water can be contaminated by the catchment, open covers, damaged screens, sediment, chemicals or poor maintenance. Protect the complete system, test when appropriate and follow health advice for the source.
Installing a pump after the fact
An undersized outlet, narrow pipe, inadequate power supply or unsuitable pump location can make a functioning tank frustrating to use. Design pressure, flow, controls and service access at the same time as the tank.
Forgetting seasonal and future demand
Average rainfall and current stock numbers can produce an undersized system. Model the difficult season, planned expansion and any new dwelling, trough or irrigation outlet before fixing the capacity.
Putting incompatible activities on one line
Chemical mixing, livestock water, irrigation and drinking water should not be treated as interchangeable. Separate supplies and equipment where contamination could occur, and install the required backflow or isolation controls.
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Examples of sound decision paths
Four-person home with mains backup
Start with the intended non-potable uses, measure the roof area and review the local rainfall pattern. The YourHome illustrative ranges can provide a sense of scale, but the final choice should reflect whether mains water automatically covers dry periods, how much garden demand varies and whether the tank is connected to drinking fixtures. Include screened inlets, a first-flush device for a drinking-water system, safe overflow and an accessible maintenance route.
Off-grid home in seasonal rainfall
Model the longest dry interval rather than relying on annual rainfall. Check whether the roof can collect enough water to refill the proposed volume, specify treatment and testing for drinking use, and design pump or gravity pressure for every fixture. A much larger tank may be needed than the illustrative mains-connected examples, and a backup source or conservation plan may still be prudent.
Farm with stock and irrigation
Calculate stock, domestic and irrigation demand separately through the hardest season. Test source water, map troughs and outlets, size pipes and pumps for distance, elevation and simultaneous flow, and leave capacity and connection points for expansion. Keep crop-chemical water separate from drinking water and provide safe, serviceable overflow and access around each tank.
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- What exact water uses and source assumptions produced this capacity?
- What is the usable volume after sediment allowance, low-level cutoff and reserve?
- Is every wetted component certified or documented for the intended water, especially drinking water?
- What foundation, anchoring, stand, excavation and delivery conditions does the manufacturer require?
- How will water reach each fixture, trough or outlet at the required pressure and flow?
- Where will overflow discharge, and who is responsible for permits and compliance?
- How will screens, first-flush equipment, pumps and the tank be cleaned and serviced?
- What happens during a dry season, power failure, pump fault or contaminated source event?
Frequently Asked Questions
How many litres should a home water tank hold?
There is no single correct volume. YourHome’s Australian examples for a four-person household with mains water and evenly spread rainfall are 2,000–3,000 L for toilet flushing and a small garden, 3,000–5,000 L when clothes washing is added, and 5,000–20,000 L for whole-of-house use. Treat those as illustrative starting points and recalculate for your roof area, local rainfall, demand and dry-period reserve.
Is a plastic tank suitable for drinking water?
It can be, but verify that the specific tank, liner, fittings, pipes, valves and seals are manufactured for drinking-water contact and meet the requirements in your jurisdiction. NSW Health refers to products made specifically for rainwater collection, preferably tested to AS/NZS 4020, and identifies AS 2070 for plastics.
Do I need a first-flush diverter?
For roof-fed drinking-water systems, YourHome recommends one to intercept the dirty initial runoff after a dry period. Its typical starting figure is about 10 L diverted per 50 m² of roof area, subject to the actual roof, device and local rules. It is not a substitute for treatment or routine maintenance.
Can a tank supply a house without a pump?
Only if the elevation and pipework provide adequate gravity pressure for the intended fixtures. YourHome notes that a tank more than 15 m higher than the house may be needed for pressure sufficient for all domestic uses; a plumber should calculate the actual system.
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NSW guidance identifies salinity, pH, algae, organic matter and chemicals as relevant checks because poor quality can affect stock and equipment. The test panel and treatment should match the source and end use; surface water and shallow groundwater should not be presumed safe for drinking.
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