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There is no single temperature that is ideal for every household. Health, clothing, activity, humidity, drafts, insulation, thermostat location, plumbing, and heating-system type all affect the right setting.
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The best winter thermostat setting depends on your heating system
The familiar 68°F recommendation applies primarily to homes heated by a conventional furnace, boiler, or electric-resistance system. It is a useful starting point, but it is not a universal comfort standard, health guarantee, or pipe-freezing safeguard.
For most U.S. homes with conventional heating, set the thermostat to 68°F (20°C) while you are home and awake. When everyone is asleep or away for several hours, lowering the setting by about 7–10°F for roughly eight hours can reduce heating and cooling costs by about 10% annually, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Your actual savings will depend on the weather, insulation, air leakage, equipment, fuel, utility rates, and length of the setback.
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There is one major exception: air-source heat pumps generally work best at a steady, comfortable temperature. Large setbacks can cause some systems to use expensive auxiliary resistance heat during recovery. Follow the instructions for your heat pump and thermostat before creating an aggressive schedule.
A practical winter thermostat schedule
| Situation | Conventional furnace, boiler, or electric resistance | Air-source heat pump |
|---|---|---|
| Home and awake | Start at 68°F; adjust for comfort | Choose a comfortable setting and generally keep it steady |
| Sleeping | Try 60–65°F if occupants are healthy, comfortable, and plumbing is protected | Usually maintain the normal setting unless the equipment and thermostat support setbacks |
| Away for a normal workday | Try about 60–61°F, or 7–10°F below the occupied setting | Avoid aggressive setbacks |
| Freezing-weather absence | Keep the heat on and use 55°F as a general minimum, not a guarantee | Keep the system operating according to the manufacturer’s guidance |
| Infant, older adult, or medically vulnerable occupant | Use a warmer, steadier setting; 68°F or higher may be appropriate | Maintain a comfortably warm, steady setting |
ASHRAE’s winter consumer guidance uses 68°F for occupied spaces and gives 60°F as an example for sleeping or unoccupied periods. That 60°F figure is a reference point, not a mandatory setting for every household. See the ASHRAE winter guidance.
Why 68°F is a good starting point—not a magic number
At 68°F, many healthy adults can remain comfortable with ordinary indoor clothing and activity. It also gives a household a clear baseline from which to test lower settings and measure comfort and energy use.
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1Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems2Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitches3Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsBut the thermostat setting is only one part of thermal comfort. ASHRAE notes that comfort is affected by relative humidity, clothing, activity, season, air movement, and other conditions. Someone sitting still near a drafty window may feel cold at 68°F, while someone moving around a well-insulated home may prefer 64–66°F. The ASHRAE comfort FAQ describes a broad approximate comfort range rather than one ideal temperature.
Think of 68°F as an energy-and-comfort benchmark for a typical U.S. conventional-heated home. It does not mean every room will be 68°F, and it does not tell you what temperature is medically appropriate for every occupant.
Should you lower the thermostat at night?
For a conventional furnace, boiler, or electric-resistance system, lowering the thermostat while you sleep is usually an effective energy-saving measure. A cooler home loses heat more slowly because the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is smaller.
A sensible starting schedule is:
- Daytime: 68°F while home and awake.
- Night: 60–65°F, provided everyone remains comfortable and the home has no pipe or condensation problem.
- Morning recovery: Set the thermostat to the desired temperature at the normal wake-up time.
Do not assume that a lower setting is automatically better. If someone is elderly, ill, sedentary, unusually sensitive to cold, or sleeping in a poorly insulated room, a smaller setback—or no setback—may be the better choice.
Should you lower it when leaving for work?
Usually, yes, if your home uses conventional heating and nobody who needs a warmer environment remains inside. The DOE recommends reducing the normal setting by 7–10°F for eight hours a day and says this can produce annual heating-and-cooling savings of about 10%.
That percentage is an estimate, not a promised bill reduction. A well-insulated home may respond differently from a leaky older house. Savings also vary with outdoor temperature, system efficiency, fuel price, and how long the home stays cooler.
For a conventional system normally set to 68°F, a workday setback around 60–61°F is a reasonable trial. If the home takes too long to recover, rooms become damp, or pipes are exposed to cold conditions, raise the away setting and investigate the building rather than relying on a more extreme schedule.
The heat-pump exception is important
If your home has an air-source heat pump, do not automatically apply furnace advice. ENERGY STAR recommends keeping air-source heat pumps at a steady temperature rather than turning them down while you are away or asleep. The DOE also cautions that setbacks should not be used with a heat pump unless the thermostat is designed specifically for heat-pump operation.
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Heat pumps move heat rather than generating it directly. When a thermostat calls for a rapid temperature recovery after a large setback, the system may activate auxiliary or emergency resistance heat. That backup heat can cost substantially more to operate than the heat pump itself.
Some modern heat-pump controls and dual-fuel systems are designed to manage recovery efficiently. That does not make every setback appropriate. Check:
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- The heat-pump manufacturer’s operating instructions.
- The thermostat’s compatibility and installer settings.
- Whether “auxiliary heat” or “emergency heat” appears frequently.
- Whether the system can maintain the setpoint without unusual noises, icing, or long recovery periods.
The DOE’s guidance on thermostats for heat pumps and dual-fuel heat pumps explains why equipment-specific control matters.
How low is too low?
There are several different questions hidden inside “How low can I set the thermostat?” Health, comfort, energy savings, plumbing protection, and building moisture do not have the same answer.
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For general cold-weather health
The World Health Organization proposes 18°C (64.4°F) as a safe, well-balanced minimum indoor temperature for general populations during cold seasons. It notes that higher temperatures may be needed for older people, children, and people with chronic illnesses, particularly cardiorespiratory conditions. Read the WHO housing-and-health guidance through the National Library of Medicine.
This is health-oriented guidance, not an instruction that every thermostat must be set to exactly 64.4°F.
For older adults, infants, and medically vulnerable people
The National Institute on Aging advises older adults to set the thermostat to at least 68–70°F and warns that even a mildly cool home in the 60–65°F range can contribute to hypothermia risk for some older people. The NIA guidance on hypothermia is especially relevant when someone is sedentary, has a condition affecting circulation or temperature regulation, or takes medication that changes their response to cold.
Infants and older adults also need particular protection during extreme cold, according to the CDC. Do not treat a 60°F nighttime setting as automatically appropriate for a baby or medically vulnerable person. Infant sleep safety depends on the entire sleep environment—including clothing, bedding, and the room—not just the thermostat. Ask a pediatrician or other clinician when an occupant has a condition that affects temperature regulation.
For pipes during a freezing-weather absence
The American Red Cross advises leaving the heat on and setting the thermostat no lower than 55°F when you are away during cold weather. It also recommends keeping the thermostat at the same temperature day and night during very cold conditions.
55°F is a general minimum, not a guarantee that pipes will not freeze. Pipes can freeze inside exterior walls, crawl spaces, garages, attics, and other poorly insulated areas even when the central thermostat reads above 55°F. Risk increases with severe outdoor cold, wind exposure, air leaks, closed-off rooms, power interruptions, and plumbing located far from the thermostat.
Before a freezing-weather trip:
- Keep the heat operating and arrange for someone to check the property if possible.
- Keep garage doors closed if water lines run through the garage.
- Open cabinet doors beneath sinks on exterior walls during severe cold so warmer air can circulate.
- Protect exposed pipes with insulation and address obvious drafts.
- Know where the main water shutoff is located.
Never turn the heat completely off during a freezing-weather vacation unless a qualified professional has confirmed that the building and plumbing are safely winterized.
Temperature is only half the comfort equation
Control winter humidity
The EPA recommends keeping indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50%, and below 60% to reduce moisture and mold problems. Use a small hygrometer rather than guessing.
Heating the air does not automatically solve excessive moisture. Outdoor air leakage, ventilation, cooking, showers, clothes drying, humidifiers, and building defects all affect indoor humidity. If you see water on windows, damp corners, or condensation around pipes, turning up the thermostat may only mask the symptom.
Condensation forms when moist indoor air meets a surface cold enough to fall below its dew point. The surface may be a window, exterior wall, thermal bridge, or poorly insulated pipe. EPA’s guidance on mold, moisture, and the home recommends controlling moisture rather than relying on temperature alone. Its condensation guidance also explains why humidity targets may need to be lower as outdoor temperatures fall.
Address drafts and cold surfaces
A thermostat measures air temperature at one location. It does not measure the chilling effect of a draft, the radiant cold from a window, or the temperature of an exterior wall. Weatherstripping, caulking, insulation, storm windows, and air sealing can make a room feel warmer without raising the thermostat.
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For construction-related problems—persistent drafts, cold floors, uneven insulation, condensation, or rooms that never match the rest of the home—the long-term answer may be an envelope repair rather than a higher setpoint.
Use curtains strategically
The DOE recommends opening south-facing curtains during the day when sunlight can warm the home, then closing curtains at night to reduce heat loss. See the DOE home energy checklist. Keep window coverings clear of radiators and baseboard heaters, and do not block required ventilation or safety clearances.
Where should the thermostat be located?
The thermostat should sense representative room air. It should be on an interior wall, away from direct sunlight, drafts, appliances, lamps, registers, radiators, and other heat sources. It should not be hidden behind curtains or furniture.
A thermostat mounted in a sunny hallway, above a radiator, beside a kitchen, or near a draft can shut the system off before the rooms you occupy are comfortable. DOE’s air-source heat-pump installation guide recommends an interior location away from sunlight, appliances, and drafts. Similar placement advice appears in guidance from Carrier and Resideo.
If you rent, do not relocate a hard-wired thermostat without permission. Instead, document the temperature difference and ask the landlord or property manager to investigate the sensor location, heating zones, airflow, and envelope problems.
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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallWhy one room can feel cold when the thermostat says 68°F
The thermostat controls the temperature where its sensor is located. A central hallway reading of 68°F does not guarantee that a bedroom, nursery, basement, bathroom, or exterior-wall room is also 68°F.
Use a separate thermometer to compare the thermostat area with the coldest occupied room. Then check:
- Whether supply vents, return grilles, radiators, or baseboards are blocked.
- Whether furniture or rugs are covering heating equipment.
- Whether doors or dampers are preventing balanced airflow.
- Whether windows and doors have visible drafts.
- Whether exterior walls, floors, attics, crawl spaces, or ducts lack insulation.
- Whether ductwork leaks or the system needs balancing.
- Whether the thermostat is in an unrepresentative location.
- Whether a zone valve, damper, furnace, boiler, or heat pump is malfunctioning.
ASHRAE recommends keeping vents, radiators, and baseboard heaters unobstructed and maintaining filters and equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Do not close vents indiscriminately to force more heat into another room. A forced-air system needs designed airflow; closing too many registers can increase pressure, noise, and equipment strain. A room should only be turned down if it is unoccupied, can be closed off, has its own heating zone, and will not be exposed to pipe-freezing conditions. That is also the position in ASHRAE’s winter consumer guidance.
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A thermostat cannot compensate for restricted airflow or neglected equipment. For forced-air systems:
- Check the filter monthly.
- Replace it at least every three months, or more often when the manufacturer, filter condition, pets, construction dust, or indoor air quality needs require it.
- Keep supply and return openings clear.
- Have the heating system serviced according to the manufacturer’s schedule.
ASHRAE says filters may need cleaning or changing monthly or more often as needed. ENERGY STAR also recommends monthly checks and replacement at least every three months in its heating and cooling maintenance checklist.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Common thermostat mistakes
Setting it to 75°F to heat faster
On a conventional thermostat, setting the temperature to 75°F instead of 68°F generally tells the system to run longer; it does not usually make the furnace produce heat faster. Set the thermostat to the temperature you actually want.
If the house warms slowly, investigate a dirty filter, blocked airflow, duct leakage, poor insulation, an undersized system, or equipment trouble. Variable-capacity and modulating systems can behave differently, but an extreme setpoint is still not a reliable “boost” setting. The general thermostat principle is also explained by HVAC professionals in the supplied Tom’s Guide coverage.
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Applying furnace advice to a heat pump
A 10-degree setback that saves energy with a furnace may trigger auxiliary resistance heat in a heat-pump system. Use steady operation unless your equipment documentation says otherwise.
Turning the heat off during freezing weather
Turning the heat off can allow plumbing in cold, poorly insulated locations to freeze. It can also leave the building exposed to condensation and cold-related damage. Keep heat on during freezing-weather absences and use the 55°F Red Cross guidance only as a general floor.
Using temperature to solve a moisture problem
68°F does not prevent mold. Mold risk depends on moisture, relative humidity, surface temperature, insulation, air movement, thermal bridges, and water intrusion. If a wall or window is cold and indoor humidity is high, mold can develop at a 68°F thermostat setting.
Ignoring auxiliary heat
Occasional auxiliary heat may be normal during very cold conditions, defrost, or recovery. Frequent or unexpected auxiliary-heat operation can point to a large setback, incompatible thermostat settings, airflow problems, inadequate sizing, or a system fault. Consult the equipment documentation and call a qualified HVAC professional if it happens repeatedly.
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Long run times can be normal during very cold weather, especially for a heat pump. They can also indicate:
- A dirty filter or blocked return.
- Leaking or poorly insulated ducts.
- Air leakage or inadequate insulation.
- An undersized or malfunctioning system.
- Incorrect thermostat placement.
- A setpoint higher than the system can maintain in current conditions.
Check the filter and airflow first. Then measure the actual temperature in the occupied rooms. Contact a qualified HVAC professional if the system cannot maintain temperature or shows unusual odors, noises, icing, short cycling, repeated auxiliary-heat use, or other abnormal behavior.
Never use a cooking stove or oven as a home-heating appliance. During an outage, use only heating equipment approved for indoor use and follow CDC guidance on winter-storm and carbon-monoxide safety.
A simple decision rule for your home
Use the lowest setting that keeps occupants healthy and comfortable while protecting the building and plumbing—but identify the heating system before creating a schedule.
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- Healthy adults, conventional heat, several hours away: begin at 68°F occupied and test a 7–10°F setback.
- Older adults, infants, or medically vulnerable occupants: keep occupied rooms warmer and avoid aggressive setbacks without appropriate medical guidance.
- Air-source heat pump: maintain a steady comfortable setting unless the manufacturer and compatible controls support a setback.
- Freezing-weather vacation: keep the heat on and do not generally set below 55°F; raise it if pipes are exposed or poorly protected.
- Cold, damp, or uneven rooms: measure room temperatures and humidity, then address drafts, insulation, airflow, and moisture.
For a construction or renovation solution, persistent cold rooms are often evidence of an air-sealing, insulation, window, duct, zoning, or equipment issue—not proof that the entire home needs a higher thermostat setting.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best thermostat setting in winter?
For a conventional furnace, boiler, or electric-resistance system, 68°F is a good starting point while you are home and awake. Lowering it by about 7–10°F during sleep or a several-hour absence may save energy, provided occupants, plumbing, and the building can tolerate the cooler temperature.
Should you lower the thermostat at night with a heat pump?
Generally, no. ENERGY STAR recommends that air-source heat pumps remain at a steady, comfortable temperature because a large setback can trigger auxiliary resistance heat during recovery. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and verify that the thermostat is heat-pump compatible.
What temperature should you leave the thermostat at to prevent frozen pipes?
The American Red Cross advises keeping the heat on and setting the thermostat no lower than 55°F during cold-weather absences. That is a general minimum, not a guarantee: pipes in exterior walls, garages, crawl spaces, attics, or poorly insulated areas may require a higher setting and additional protection.
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No. A thermostat measures the air near its sensor, not every room or surface. Mold depends on moisture, relative humidity, cold surfaces, air leakage, insulation, and water intrusion. Aim for roughly 30–50% indoor humidity and address condensation or leaks directly.
The Bottom Line
For most U.S. homes with conventional heating, start at 68°F while home and awake. Lower the setting by about 7–10°F for sleep or a normal absence when the home and occupants can safely tolerate it. For air-source heat pumps, generally maintain a steady temperature. During freezing-weather absences, keep the heat on and use 55°F as a general minimum—not a guarantee against frozen pipes. Keep indoor humidity around 30–50%, and investigate drafts, cold rooms, or condensation instead of treating the thermostat as the only solution.
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