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Choose the drill for the material and the work, not simply the highest voltage. A Milwaukee drill/driver handles ordinary holes and screws. If you will drill brick, block, or concrete, choose a hammer drill/driver so the bit receives a hammering action as it rotates. Then choose between the compact M12 and larger M18 battery systems, check the chuck and published specifications, and confirm whether the exact SKU is a bare tool or a complete kit.
For many mixed household jobs, the M18 Compact Brushless 1/2-inch Hammer Drill/Driver (3602-20) is a sensible model to compare: Milwaukee lists it at 5.8 inches long, 550 in-lbs of torque, and 0–550/0–1,700 RPM. It is a tool-only listing, however, so a buyer without M18 batteries and a charger must budget for those separately.
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Start with the material you will drill
The first decision is functional. A standard drill/driver is designed to rotate a bit for drilling and to drive screws. A hammer drill/driver adds an impact-like axial hammer action that helps a masonry bit work through brick, concrete block, and some concrete. Hammer mode is not a substitute for a rotary hammer on large, deep, or continuous concrete work, but it is the relevant feature for common home repairs such as mounting into masonry.
Choose a standard drill/driver when
- Your holes are mainly in wood, plastics, drywall, or thin metal.
- You are assembling furniture, installing cabinets, driving deck or construction screws, or drilling pilot holes.
- You want the lightest and simplest tool and have no planned masonry work.
Choose a hammer drill/driver when
- You need to drill occasional holes in brick, block, or concrete for anchors, shelves, conduit, or fixtures.
- You want one cordless tool that can switch between ordinary drilling, screwdriving, and masonry drilling.
- You accept some additional weight, noise, and vibration in exchange for the hammer function.
Milwaukee identifies hammer mode on the 3602-20 and 2904-20 hammer drill/drivers. Its 2803-20 drill/driver listing explicitly says “Hammer Function: No.” That difference matters more than a small change in speed or torque when masonry is part of the project.
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Do you actually need a hammer drill for home use?
Not every homeowner does. If your expected work is limited to wood, metal, drywall, and screws, a regular drill/driver is sufficient and usually more pleasant to handle. Buy a hammer model when masonry is a real requirement, not because the word “hammer” sounds more powerful.
For a masonry hole, turn hammer mode on only after fitting a masonry bit, set the correct speed and clutch, and use firm, controlled pressure. Hammer mode should be off for ordinary wood and metal drilling unless the tool instructions specifically say otherwise. The hammer action can damage a conventional bit or make a clean hole harder to control.
For repeated large holes, deep concrete anchors, or demolition-style work, a dedicated rotary hammer is a different class of tool. The models discussed here are hammer drill/drivers intended to combine everyday drilling and driving with occasional masonry capability.
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Choose between Milwaukee M12 and M18
M12 and M18 are separate Milwaukee battery systems. The number identifies the platform, not a universal quality ranking. Choose the platform that fits the tool size, the work you anticipate, and batteries you already own.
M12: compact handling
The M12 2408-22 is a documented 3/8-inch hammer drill/driver kit. Its smaller platform is useful where access, low weight, and one-handed control matter. It can be a good fit for light household repairs, cabinet work, and occasional small masonry holes when the bit size and material are within the tool’s limits.
Because the 2408-22 is a kit SKU, verify exactly which M12 batteries, charger, case, or bag are included in the current listing. Do not assume that every M12 drill listing includes the same accessories.
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- Both tools are designed to fit into difficult to reach spaces
- Complete a wide range of applications with a high-performance motor that delivers up to 300 UWO, and an impact driver delivering up to 1,400 in-lbs of torque
- Both the DEWALT impact driver and drill driver feature integrated LED work lights with a convenient 20-second delay, ensuring enhanced visibility in dimly lit or challenging work areas
- One-Handed Loading - Keep one hand free with a 1/4 in. hex chuck that accepts 1 in. bit tips
M18: broader capacity and larger chucks
M18 models generally offer a larger tool and battery format. The 3602-20 and 2803-20 use a 1/2-inch chuck, which accommodates a wider range of household bits and accessories than a 3/8-inch chuck. The M18 platform is worth considering if you already have M18 batteries, expect larger holes, or want to compare compact and high-capability models within one system.
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Compare the representative Milwaukee models
The table uses Milwaukee’s published specifications and product descriptions. They are manufacturer claims, not independent performance tests, so do not read the torque figures as a laboratory ranking.
| Model | Type and documented use | Published details | What to check before buying |
|---|---|---|---|
| M12 2408-22 | 3/8-inch M12 hammer drill/driver kit | Official listing identifies the drill and an M12 battery-and-charger kit. | Confirm the exact battery capacities, charger, and included accessories; match the smaller chuck and platform to your bit sizes and workload. |
| M18 3602-20 | Compact brushless 1/2-inch hammer drill/driver; bare tool | 5.8 inches long; 550 in-lbs torque; 0–550 and 0–1,700 RPM. | It is the tool-only SKU, so batteries and a charger may be additional purchases. Check whether its compact format covers your largest planned holes. |
| M18 2803-20 | M18 FUEL 1/2-inch drill/driver without hammer function | Milwaukee lists “Hammer Function: No” and a five-year limited tool warranty. | Choose it only when masonry drilling is not required. Confirm current regional warranty terms for the exact model. |
| M18 FUEL 2904-20 | 1/2-inch hammer drill/driver positioned for demanding work | Milwaukee lists 1,400 in-lbs of torque and describes hammer drilling in brick, block, and concrete. | Its higher stated capability may be unnecessary for occasional small jobs. No independent comparison establishes how it performs against the other models. |
What the 3602-20 specifications mean in practice
Milwaukee’s current product page, accessed in 2026, lists the 3602-20 at 5.8 inches long, 550 in-lbs of torque, and two speed ranges: 0–550 RPM and 0–1,700 RPM. The short length can help when working between studs, inside cabinets, or above a ceiling. The lower range gives controlled drilling and screwdriving; the higher range is suited to faster drilling in materials and bit sizes appropriate for the tool.
The 1/2-inch chuck accepts a broad selection of household bits. It does not tell you the maximum safe hole size for every material; that depends on the bit, material, technique, and the manufacturer’s instructions. Treat the torque and speed figures as specifications for comparing models, not as a promise that every project will feel identical.
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When the 2904-20 is justified
The M18 FUEL 2904-20 is the higher-capability example in this group. Milwaukee lists 1,400 in-lbs of torque and specifically describes hammer mode for brick, block, and concrete. That makes it relevant for larger holes, tougher materials, or repeated drilling where a compact tool may feel slow or underpowered.
Higher published torque does not automatically make it the best home drill. A larger tool can be tiring for overhead work, and a homeowner who drills only a few small anchor holes may never use the extra capacity. Select it when the work is genuinely demanding, when you need the 1/2-inch chuck, or when the rest of your M18 tools already support the battery investment.
When the 2803-20 is the better choice
The M18 FUEL 2803-20 is a drill/driver, not a hammer drill. Milwaukee’s listing states “Hammer Function: No,” so it is appropriate for wood, metal, plastics, drywall, and screwdriving but not the right choice if you need to drill masonry.
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Decide whether you need a kit or a bare tool
SKU details can change the real cost more than a small difference in drill specifications. A bare-tool listing contains the drill only. A kit normally adds one or more batteries, a charger, and sometimes a case or contractor bag.
Documented 3602 kit contents
Milwaukee’s 3602-22CT kit page lists the 3602 drill, two CP2.0 batteries, an M18/M12 charger, and a contractor bag. The 3602-20 page is the bare-tool listing. Compare these exact model numbers rather than assuming that a retailer’s photograph or headline describes the contents of every package.
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Use this kit checklist
- Exact drill model and suffix, such as 3602-20 or 3602-22CT.
- Number and capacity of batteries; CP2.0 identifies the listed compact battery size in the 3602-22CT kit.
- Whether the charger supports M18, M12, or both systems.
- Case, contractor bag, side handle, belt clip, and other accessories actually listed.
- Whether the listing is for a new, authorized product and whether regional warranty terms apply.
If you already own compatible batteries and a charger, a bare tool can avoid duplicate equipment. If you do not, compare the complete kit price and contents rather than the bare-tool price alone.
Match the bit to the material
A capable drill cannot compensate for the wrong bit. Use a masonry bit for brick, block, and concrete; use a wood bit, brad-point bit, or suitable multipurpose bit for wood; and use a metal-rated twist bit for metal. Select the bit diameter and shank size required by the anchor, fastener, or hole specification.
Masonry
Mark the hole, select hammer mode, and use a masonry bit with the correct diameter. Clear dust periodically so the bit does not simply polish debris in the hole. For an anchor, follow the anchor maker’s required depth and diameter rather than relying on the drill’s maximum capability.
Wood and composite materials
Use ordinary drilling mode. Clamp the work when possible, support the exit side to reduce tear-out, and select a pilot-hole size that matches the screw and wood species.
Metal
Use a sharp metal-rated bit, lower speed, and cutting lubricant where appropriate. Secure the workpiece and avoid forcing the bit; excessive pressure can overheat the bit and the tool.
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Screwdriving
Use the clutch to limit driving force, start at a low speed, and increase only when the fastener and material permit. A clutch setting is not a substitute for choosing the correct driver bit or pilot hole.
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A practical selection process
- List every planned material. Write down whether the next year of projects includes wood, metal, drywall, brick, block, or concrete. Masonry on that list is the trigger to compare hammer models.
- Estimate hole and fastener sizes. Note the largest bit and anchor you expect to use. This determines whether a 3/8-inch M12 chuck is adequate or whether a 1/2-inch M18 chuck is more convenient.
- Choose the battery platform. Stay with M12 or M18 batteries you already own when that platform meets the work. If you own neither, compare compact handling against the capacity and tool range you expect to need.
- Choose the function. Select a standard drill/driver such as the 2803-20 only when masonry is out of scope. Select a hammer drill/driver such as the 2408-22, 3602-20, or 2904-20 when masonry holes are part of the plan.
- Compare published specifications. Check chuck size, torque, speed ranges, length, and any listed side handle. Keep the model number attached to each figure.
- Compare package contents. Decide whether you need batteries, a charger, and a bag. Check the exact SKU, not just the family name.
- Buy the correct bits and accessories. Match bit type, diameter, and shank to each material and anchor. A drill kit without the appropriate bit is not ready for the job.
- Plan safe operation. Wear eye protection, secure the work, keep hands clear, and use hearing protection when hammer drilling. Follow the tool and bit instructions for speed, pressure, and mode.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Buying by voltage alone
M18 is not automatically the right answer and M12 is not automatically inadequate. A compact tool can be easier to control, while a larger model can provide more capacity. Judge the platform against the actual work and your existing batteries.
Comparing a bare tool with a kit
A bare 3602-20 and a 3602-22CT kit are not equivalent purchases. Count batteries, charger, and storage before deciding which price is lower.
Assuming every drill has hammer mode
The 2803-20 listing says it has no hammer function. Read the feature list for the exact model before starting a masonry project.
Using the wrong bit
Wood, metal, and masonry require different bit designs. Verify the bit’s material rating, diameter, and shank before drilling.
Treating manufacturer figures as test results
The torque, speed, length, and warranty information above comes from Milwaukee product listings. It does not establish independent rankings for speed, runtime, durability, or homeowner satisfaction.
How to use a hammer drill for a masonry anchor
- Locate the drilling point and check for hidden wiring, plumbing, or structural reinforcement.
- Read the anchor instructions and mark the required diameter and depth.
- Install a masonry bit of that diameter and confirm that its shank fits the chuck.
- Set the drill to hammer mode and a controlled speed; use the lower range if the bit and material call for it.
- Hold the drill square to the surface and apply steady pressure without forcing it.
- Withdraw the bit periodically to clear dust, especially in a deep hole.
- Stop at the specified depth, clean the hole, and install the anchor according to its instructions.
- Turn hammer mode off before using the drill for ordinary screws or non-masonry materials.
Bottom-line choice by homeowner profile
- Mostly furniture, shelving, wood, and screws: compare a standard drill/driver such as the M18 2803-20 if you already use M18 batteries.
- Mixed household work with occasional masonry: compare the compact M18 3602-20 or the M12 2408-22 according to handling, chuck size, and battery ownership.
- Repeated large holes or demanding masonry: examine the higher-capability M18 FUEL 2904-20, while recognizing that its extra capacity may be unnecessary for light work.
- No batteries yet: compare a complete kit, such as the documented 3602-22CT, against the cost of a bare tool plus batteries and charger.
The right Milwaukee drill is the one whose mode, chuck, platform, and package match the work you will actually do. Confirm the exact model number and current kit contents before purchase, and treat published specifications as a starting point for selection rather than a substitute for matching the tool to the material.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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