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Empress tree is also called princess tree or royal paulownia. Its fragrant purple flowers and huge leaves are ornamental, but its winged seeds and ability to resprout make removal a multi-stage job rather than a single cut.
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Key takeaways
- Paulownia tomentosa, also called empress tree, princess tree, or royal paulownia, spreads through winged seeds and vigorous stump or root sprouts.
- Hand-pull seedlings in moist soil and dig saplings out completely; broken root pieces can resprout.
- Cutting a mature tree at ground level is an initial control step, not guaranteed eradication, because the stump and roots may produce new shoots.
- According to University of Maryland Extension (2026), sprouts can grow more than 10 feet in one season, so the site requires repeated inspections.
- Large trees, trees near structures or utility lines, and work involving climbing, rigging, stump grinding, or herbicide should be evaluated by a certified arborist.
How do you avoid the invasive empress tree and get rid of yours?
To avoid the invasive empress tree and get rid of yours, do not plant Paulownia tomentosa where it can escape, remove seedlings by hand, dig out young trees with their entire root systems, and cut mature trees only when it is safe. Monitor the site for years because stumps and roots can send up new sprouts after removal.
The attractive lavender flowers and unusually large leaves make empress tree tempting as an ornamental, but those features do not make it a suitable landscape tree in regions where the species is invasive. The safest plan is prevention followed by early removal, site monitoring, and restoration with desirable vegetation.
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What is an empress tree, and how can you identify it?
An empress tree is Paulownia tomentosa, a deciduous tree also known as princess tree or royal paulownia. The species is native to China and was introduced to the United States in the 1800s for ornamental and timber purposes. In suitable conditions, the tree may become approximately 30 to 60 feet tall.
| Feature | What to look for | Identification caution |
|---|---|---|
| Flowers | Fragrant lavender-to-purple flowers that generally open before the leaves in spring | Flowering is seasonal, so a nonflowering tree can be harder to confirm. |
| Leaves | Large, opposite, heart-shaped, velvety leaves; juvenile leaves may be especially large | Large heart-shaped leaves are not unique to paulownia. |
| Seed capsules | Dry capsules remain on bare branches and split open to release many tiny, winged seeds | Capsules can help distinguish the tree when flowers are absent, but confirm the species before removal. |
| Similar species | Catalpa can be confused with paulownia when flowers and capsules are absent | Use the scientific name Paulownia tomentosa and seek local expert confirmation if uncertain. |
The National Invasive Species Information Center’s princess tree profile is a useful federal starting point for confirming the common names and species identity. Invasive status is geographic: Paulownia tomentosa is not equally invasive in every region, so check your state or local invasive-plant information before planting, transporting, or disposing of the tree.
Why does empress tree spread so aggressively?
Empress tree spreads in two main ways: it produces abundant winged seeds, and its stump and roots can generate new shoots after the main stem is cut or damaged. Full sun, good drainage, and disturbed ground give the species especially favorable conditions.
According to University of Maryland Extension (2023), one tree is estimated to produce 20 million seeds, with up to 2,000 tiny, winged seeds per capsule. Those figures are estimates cited by the Extension source, not a guaranteed production level for every tree. Seed can move into roadsides, streambanks, forest clearings, rocky slopes, compacted urban soil, pavement cracks, and organic material caught in partially blocked gutters.
Cutting does not automatically solve the problem. Root sprouts can grow up to 20 feet in one growing season, according to University of Maryland Extension (2023), while a later University of Maryland Extension guide reports that sprouts can exceed 10 feet in a single season. The different figures describe source-specific observations or maximum conditions; both explain why a neglected stump can quickly become a thicket.
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How should you remove empress tree seedlings?
Hand-pull seedlings while the soil is moist and the plants are small. Grasp each seedling low on the stem, pull steadily, and confirm that the complete root has come out of the soil.
- Work after rain or water the soil so the root can release more easily.
- Pull close to the soil surface rather than yanking the upper stem.
- Examine the hole and remove any remaining root pieces.
- Bag or otherwise contain seed-bearing material according to local disposal rules.
- Return to the area regularly and remove newly emerged seedlings before they mature.
University of Maryland Extension summarizes the priority clearly: “Princess tree is best controlled when young, as seedlings have very shallow roots that can be removed by hand pulling.” The same 2023 guidance warns, “Be sure to remove the entire root as broken segments can re-sprout.”
How do you remove empress tree saplings?
Dig up saplings when possible, removing the entire root system rather than leaving the root crown or fragments in the ground. A narrow garden spade or digging shovel is appropriate for this small-plant task, but a hand tool is not a safe or adequate solution for a mature tree.
- Moisten the soil and expose the root collar with a narrow spade.
- Dig a broad enough circle to get beneath the root system without severing it unnecessarily.
- Lift the sapling and inspect the hole for broken roots.
- Remove remaining root fragments and dispose of the plant in a way that prevents seed or vegetative material from spreading.
- If immediate digging is impossible, cut the young tree down before seed formation to stop that season’s additional seed production, then schedule root removal and follow-up control.
Foliar treatment may be considered for small plants only where it is legal, technically appropriate, and compatible with nearby vegetation. Avoid spray drift onto desirable plants, water, gardens, and neighboring property. Do not choose or apply a particular herbicide rate from a general article: the current product label, applicator requirements, weather restrictions, water-protection rules, and state or local law control the application.
Will cutting down a mature princess tree kill it?
Usually, no. Cutting a mature Paulownia tomentosa stem at ground level can be an effective initial mechanical-control step, but the stump and roots may resprout. Repeatedly removing new growth can eventually weaken the root system, yet the process may take several years.
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If a mature tree can be safely felled, cutting at or around flowering can reduce seed production for that season. The USDA Forest Service identifies cutting as an effective initial mechanical control measure in its Paulownia tomentosa species-management review. Do not treat the timing recommendation as permission to undertake a hazardous felling job; safety and site conditions come first.
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For a small-to-medium stem that can be cut safely from the ground, a tree pruning saw can help with the cutting step. A pruning saw only cuts the stem; it does not remove the root system or guarantee that sprouts will stop. Stop and obtain professional help if the tree requires overhead cutting, climbing, rigging, directional felling, or work close to a structure or utility line.
What should you do about stump and root sprouts?
Inspect the entire removal area for stump sprouts, root sprouts, and new seedlings, and remove or control new growth promptly before the roots rebuild their carbohydrate reserves.
- Mark the former tree location so the stump and root zone are easy to inspect.
- Check the site repeatedly during the growing season, especially after cutting or ground disturbance.
- Remove young shoots early by pulling, digging, or cutting when the method is appropriate and safe.
- Do not assume a clean-looking stump is dead. Look beyond the stump for suckers emerging from roots.
- Consider cut-stump herbicide treatment only as a site-specific option. The USDA Forest Service discusses it as a possible follow-up, but herbicides can injure non-target species and are rarely a complete long-term solution by themselves.
- Follow the label and local rules. Use only a product legally labeled for the site and application, and comply with restrictions involving weather, water, protective equipment, and certified applicators.
University of Maryland Extension states that “Because the tree can re-sprout via suckering, a follow-up cut-stump herbicide treatment is effective.” That statement describes a control option in the cited guidance, not a universal recommendation for every yard. A professional site assessment is particularly important where desirable roots, waterways, wells, gardens, or neighboring vegetation could be exposed.
When should you hire a certified arborist?
Hire a certified arborist or professional invasive-tree-removal service when the tree is large, unstable, near a building or road, close to utility lines, on steep terrain, difficult to access, or requires climbing, rigging, stump grinding, or professional herbicide application.
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| Situation | Best approach | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Isolated seedling in open ground | DIY hand-pulling | The plant may have a shallow root system and can often be removed from the ground safely. |
| Small sapling reachable from ground level | DIY digging if the complete root system can be removed | Leaving root fragments can lead to resprouting. |
| Small stem requiring a ground-level cut in a clear area | DIY only if the person has suitable equipment and understands the fall and cutting hazards | Cutting controls the stem but does not finish the eradication process. |
| Large tree or heavy limbs | Certified arborist | Felling, overhead limbs, rigging, and stump work can cause serious injury or property damage. |
| Tree near power lines, structures, roads, or fences | Certified arborist and any required utility or local authority coordination | Fall direction, access, and public-safety risks make improvised removal unsafe. |
| Herbicide treatment among desirable plants or near water | Qualified professional or carefully verified legal treatment | Product choice, label requirements, drift, and non-target damage require site-specific judgment. |
University of Maryland Extension’s tree-removal guidance recommends consulting certified arborists because they are knowledgeable about tree care and removal concerns. Never climb, rig, or fell a large tree based only on online instructions.
How can you prevent empress tree from returning?
Prevention combines seed control, early detection, reduced disturbance, equipment hygiene, and restoration of the removal site.
- Remove existing trees where practical before they produce more seed.
- Inspect nearby sunny, disturbed ground for seedlings and root sprouts.
- Minimize unnecessary soil disturbance and promptly revegetate exposed soil.
- Maintain a competitive community of desirable native plants.
- Clean equipment, vehicles, and footwear before moving from an infested area to an uninfested one.
- After storms, construction, clearing, or fire, inspect newly disturbed areas for colonization.
- Check local rules before moving or disposing of seed capsules, branches, logs, or soil containing roots.
The USDA Forest Service recommends early detection, eradication of small patches, monitoring after disturbance, and cleaning equipment and vehicles to reduce the movement of seeds or other propagules. The same review cautions against treating prescribed fire as a standalone control method: fire can create open, disturbed conditions that favor princess-tree establishment. In burned areas specifically, the Forest Service says, “Preventing invasive plants from establishing in burned areas is the most effective and least costly management method.”
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What should you plant instead of princess tree?
Choose a replacement according to the site, mature size, soil, light, moisture, and the trait you actually want; no cold-hardy, non-invasive species has exactly the same combination of empress tree’s ornamental characteristics.
| Desired trait | Possible alternative named by University of Maryland Extension | Selection note |
|---|---|---|
| Early spring flowers | Eastern redbud | Confirm that the species suits your region and planting site. |
| Fragrant flowers | Magnolia cultivars | Choose a cultivar whose mature size fits the available space. |
| Large leaves | Pawpaw or bigleaf magnolia | Match soil moisture, light, and mature dimensions before planting. |
| Rapid growth | Tulip poplar or river birch | Rapid growth does not mean small mature size; check site capacity and local recommendations. |
The University of Maryland Extension’s 2026 replacement guidance provides these trait-based examples. Local native-plant lists, state extension services, and reputable native nurseries should take priority over a universal replacement list, because a tree that is appropriate in one region or soil type may perform poorly in another.
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Removal checklist
- Confirm that the tree is Paulownia tomentosa, not catalpa or another large-leaved species.
- Check regional invasive-plant rules and disposal requirements.
- Remove seedlings before they establish or produce seed.
- Dig saplings out completely and remove broken root pieces.
- For mature trees, assess hazards before cutting and reduce seed production when safe and feasible.
- Have an arborist handle large, unstable, elevated, restricted-access, or utility-adjacent work.
- Inspect the stump, root zone, and surrounding ground for new growth.
- Control sprouts promptly and repeat inspections for multiple growing seasons.
- Restore bare soil with suitable desirable vegetation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Paulownia tomentosa invasive everywhere?
Paulownia tomentosa is invasive in some regions, particularly where its seeds and sprouts can colonize sunny, disturbed ground. Invasive status is geographic rather than universal, so check your state or local invasive-plant authority before planting or transporting it.
Will cutting down a princess tree kill it?
Cutting down a princess tree does not necessarily kill it. The stump and roots can produce new shoots, so the site must be inspected repeatedly and new growth controlled before the root system rebuilds.
Do I need an arborist to remove a large paulownia?
A certified arborist is the safer choice for a large or unstable tree, a tree near a building, road, or utility line, or any removal involving climbing, rigging, stump grinding, or professional herbicide application.
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The Bottom Line
Bottom line: Avoid planting Paulownia tomentosa where it can escape. Remove seedlings and saplings completely while they are small; for a mature tree, use safe ground-level cutting as the first step, then monitor and repeatedly control stump and root sprouts. A tree pruning saw is only a cutting tool, not a one-step eradication method. Use a certified arborist for hazardous or technically difficult trees.
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