The plant sold as a citronella plant, citrosa geranium, or mosquito plant is usually a citrus-scented Pelargonium—a scented geranium grown for its fragrant foliage, compact container habit, and small flowers. It is not usually the citronella grass used to produce commercial citronella oil.
Give a scented pelargonium full sun or very bright light, porous soil, excellent drainage, moderate watering, light feeding during active growth, and protection from frost. Grow it for fragrance and foliage, not as a dependable mosquito barrier: studies and extension guidance find that simply placing the plant nearby does not provide meaningful mosquito protection.
How to Grow and Care for a Citronella Plant
First, identify which “citronella plant” you have
“Citronella plant” is a retail name rather than a consistently precise botanical identity. In U.S. garden centers, it most often refers to a scented-leaved Pelargonium, sometimes labeled Pelargonium citrosum, “citrosa geranium,” or “mosquito plant.” Botanical naming is not uniform: the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew currently treats Pelargonium citrosum as a synonym of Pelargonium graveolens, while Pelargonium citronellum is recognized separately. The name on a plant tag may therefore not tell you exactly which scented pelargonium you have. See the current Kew record for Pelargonium citrosum and its record for Pelargonium citronellum.
| What the label says | What it usually means | What it is grown for |
|---|---|---|
| Citronella plant, mosquito plant, or citrosa geranium | A citrus-scented Pelargonium, often sold as a scented geranium | Fragrant foliage, small flowers, and container or patio display |
| Citronella grass | Cymbopogon nardus or Cymbopogon winterianus, clumping aromatic grasses | The plant group associated with commercial citronella oil |
| Lemon-scented geranium or scented geranium | One of several fragrant Pelargonium species or cultivars | Ornamental foliage and fragrance |
| Citronella oil | An extracted and processed plant oil, not a whole potted geranium | Use in certain commercial products, including some registered repellents |
The two plants should not be given identical care. A scented pelargonium has soft, often lobed leaves and may produce small flowers. True citronella grass forms clumps of long, strap-like grass leaves. If your plant has grass-like blades emerging from a clump rather than rounded or lobed scented leaves on branching stems, it may be Cymbopogon, not a pelargonium. The U.S. EPA identifies C. nardus and C. winterianus as sources associated with citronella oil in its oil of citronella fact sheet.
#1 Best Overall
- TWO (2) LARGE LIVE PLANTS – big, healthy, ready to grow, premium plants, 4” to 8” tall plants, in 4” pots. NON GMO No Neonicotinoids
- Citronella Mosquito plants (Citrosa Geranium) are a beautiful plant for your yard, patio, pool area, or garden
- These lemony-scented citronella plants cover an area up to 10 square feet. They require little tending and grow to about 4 feet high if the season allows
- Our plants are fast shipped for MAXIMUM freshness. Includes our Clovers Garden copyrighted QUICK-START Guide. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
What a scented citronella geranium looks and smells like
The commonly sold scented pelargonium is primarily a foliage plant. Its leaves may be lobed, textured, soft, or slightly fuzzy, and the citrus fragrance is strongest when the foliage is brushed, rubbed, or crushed. Flowers are usually small and may be pink, white, lavender, or mauve; they are generally less prominent than the leaves. Plants typically develop an upright, rounded, or somewhat bushy habit in a pot. Illinois Extension and the Missouri Botanical Garden both describe scented geraniums as plants valued for aromatic leaves as much as, or more than, their flowers.
Before buying or planting, gently brush a leaf and confirm that you like the scent. Fragrance varies among cultivars, and the word “citronella” on the tag does not guarantee a particular species or a particular level of aroma.
Does a citronella plant repel mosquitoes?
No—not reliably when it is simply planted or placed nearby. Grow a citronella-scented geranium for its fragrance and foliage, not as a stand-alone mosquito barrier.
A 1994 evaluation found that Pelargonium × citrosum failed to repel adult Aedes albopictus and Culex quinquefasciatus in the tested conditions, as reported in the PubMed study. A 1996 field evaluation also found no significant difference between people exposed to citrosa and untreated subjects; mosquitoes were observed landing and resting on the plant. The published field study also examined the plant’s essential oil rather than assuming that a pleasant scent automatically creates outdoor protection.
Extension and integrated pest-management authorities reach the same practical conclusion. Iowa State Extension says that scented geranium, citrosa, and citronella grass planted nearby are ineffective landscape mosquito repellents because aromatic oils are released mainly when plant tissue is disturbed. UC Integrated Pest Management likewise lists aromatic plants, including Pelargonium × citrosum, among ineffective mosquito-repellent products.
For meaningful protection outdoors, remove standing water, wear clothing that limits exposed skin, use fans where appropriate, and choose a properly labeled repellent such as DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus when suitable. University of Maryland Extension, University of Florida Extension, and the EPA’s guidance on skin-applied repellents provide practical control and label-safety guidance.
Citronella plant care at a glance
| Requirement | Best general practice |
|---|---|
| Plant type | Tender perennial Pelargonium; commonly grown as an outdoor annual in cold climates |
| Light | Full sun or at least six hours of direct light daily; provide some afternoon shade during extreme heat if needed |
| Soil | Average, porous, well-drained soil or a commercial potting mix |
| Container | Use a pot with drainage holes and never leave it standing in water |
| Water | Water thoroughly, then allow the soil to dry somewhat before watering again |
| Fertilizer | Use a dilute, balanced fertilizer every two to four weeks during active growth |
| Pruning | Pinch tips to promote branching; remove dead or diseased material |
| Flowers | Usually secondary to the scented foliage; deadhead for a tidier plant |
| Propagation | Three- to four-inch non-flowering stem cuttings are the most dependable method |
| Winter | Move indoors before frost; keep it bright, comparatively cool, and less wet |
| Mosquito control | Not reliable as a stand-alone repellent |
| Pet safety | ASPCA lists Pelargonium species as toxic to dogs, cats, and horses |
Light and location
Place a scented citronella geranium in full sun, targeting at least six hours of direct light each day. Strong light keeps the stems compact and helps the plant maintain a fuller shape. A bright patio, porch, balcony, or path edge is especially useful because it lets you enjoy the fragrance when you brush against the foliage.
In very hot climates, light afternoon shade can reduce heat stress, particularly if the plant is in a dark or small container that heats and dries quickly. Shade should not become deep shade: insufficient light commonly produces long, weak, widely spaced stems. NC State Extension, UC Marin Master Gardeners, and the Missouri Botanical Garden all emphasize sun, drainage, and protection from frost.
Outdated Drivers Are Slowing You Down
One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware matchWindows Errors? Fix Them Before They Spread
Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallDo not choose a location on the assumption that proximity to seating will keep mosquitoes away. Put the plant near a walkway or outdoor seating area for its scent and ornamental value, but use actual mosquito-control measures when bites or disease exposure are concerns.
Rank #2
- PEST-FREE SOLUTION: The constant buzzing of mosquitoes is extremely annoying. BugBai mosquito repellent incense sticks can release a fresh herbal smell that disrupts the sensory system of mosquitoes and makes them feel offensive. Thus making it possible to enjoy your sleepy night and outdoor activities freely without any disturbance of those annoying mosquitoes
- NATURAL INCENSE STICKS: The main active ingredients of our natural mosquito repellent incense is plant-based essential oils like Rosemary, Lemongrass and Citronella. This citronella incense stick is non-toxic and friendly to pets, human and plants when used as directed. These bug repellent outdoor will build up a mosquito barrier so as to protect you and your family from mosquito bites
- HOW TO USE: Every Box contains 120 pieces of mosquito incense sticks. Take one out and ignite the tip of the mosquito incense stick until it flames. Let it burn for 10-20 sec and extinguish the flame away. Then place it in the holder or in a pot filled with sand or dirt. Try to keep the mosquito repellent as close to the floor as possible. For optimal mosquito protection results, place 4-5 pieces of incense sticks to create a perimeter around your patio or any other outdoor areas
- LASTING & EFFECTIVE: As mosquitoes are extremely sensitive to smells, this mosquito repellent outdoor patio can deliver a strong smell, which is fresh to people but highly irritating to mosquitoes. The natural ingredients will be activated and volatilized into the air to create a mosquito-free environment after the mosquito incense is ignited. Each mosquito incense sticks can burn for 60 min approximately (wind speed and humidity may impact the burning time)
- WIDE APPLICATION RANGE: Despite of giving your indoor area a full range of protection such as kitchen, bedroom, living room, dining room, basement and so on. BugBai insect repellent is also suitable for outdoor insect control such as garden, yard, patio, deck, corridor, swimming pool, porch and so on. It will be useful for picnic, BBQ, camping or fishing outside. It also has a certain repellent effect on other flying and biting insects such as ticks, flies, and gnats
Container or garden bed?
Why a container is usually the safest choice
- You can move the plant indoors before frost.
- You can control the soil mix and drainage more easily.
- You can place it where the foliage is accessible for fragrance.
- Container culture is practical in regions where the plant cannot survive winter outdoors.
Choose a container with one or more unobstructed drainage holes. Use a porous commercial potting mix, not a dense, water-retentive medium. Set the pot where runoff can escape, and empty a saucer or decorative cachepot after watering. Poor drainage and constantly wet roots are major contributors to root and stem rot in scented pelargoniums. Illinois Extension and Missouri Botanical Garden both stress well-drained soil.
When planting in the ground makes sense
In a warm, reliably frost-free climate, an in-ground plant can make faster, fuller summer growth and may need less frequent watering than a small container once established. Choose average garden soil that drains freely. Heavy clay, low spots, and areas where water collects after rain are poor locations unless drainage is corrected.
In colder regions, treat the plant as a seasonal outdoor accent or keep it in a pot from the start. Plant outside only after the local danger of frost has passed, and plan to bring it back indoors before the first damaging freeze.
Quick wins for a faster PC:
Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Watering: thorough, then partly dry
Do not water by a fixed number of days. Drying speed changes with pot size, plant size, sun, wind, temperature, humidity, and the type of mix. Instead:
- Check the soil before watering.
- When it has dried somewhat, water thoroughly until excess drains from the bottom.
- Empty standing runoff from the saucer or cachepot.
- Wait for the soil to dry somewhat again before repeating.
The goal is evenly managed moisture—not a permanently wet root zone and not prolonged neglect. Illinois Extension recommends keeping the soil moist while allowing it to dry between waterings, and UC Marin Master Gardeners warns against keeping the roots constantly wet.
Expect to water more often in a small pot, during hot or windy weather, or when the plant is growing rapidly. Indoors during winter, reduce watering because lower light and cooler temperatures slow growth and evaporation. Never compensate for poor drainage by watering less frequently; correct the container, mix, or planting site instead.
Fertilizing
Feed only while the plant is actively growing. Use a dilute, balanced liquid fertilizer approximately every two to four weeks, following the product label for dilution and application. Illinois Extension recommends feeding about every two weeks during the growing season, while Iowa State Extension gives a two- to four-week interval for container geraniums.
Reduce or stop fertilizer during the low-light winter period. Heavy feeding, especially with excess nitrogen, can encourage weak, overly leafy growth rather than a compact, sturdy plant. If the plant is newly purchased in fresh, pre-fertilized potting mix, wait until active growth and the existing nutrient supply have begun to decline before starting a regular feeding schedule.
Pruning, pinching, and flowers
Scented geraniums can become leggy, especially after a dim winter indoors. Pinch or trim the growing tip just above a leaf node to encourage side shoots and a bushier habit. Light, repeated shaping during active growth is generally more useful than waiting until the plant is badly stretched and cutting everything back at once.
Rank #3
- COMPLETE MOSQUITO REPELLANT COLLECTON: Nine (9) big, healthy NON GMO mosquito repelling plant varieties including (3) Citronella Geranium Plants, (3) Lemongrass Plants, (3) Lantana Plants. Each 4" 8" Tall in Individual 4" Pots
- VERSATILE PLACEMENT OPTIONS: Plant in gardens, around play areas, patios, doorsteps, containers, and balconies - wherever you fight mosquitoes. When cut, bruised, or even rustled by a breeze, they give off a pleasant lemony, citronella scent that skeeters avoid
- BEAUTIFUL BLOOMS & FOLIAGE: These mosquito repelling plants will fill your outside living spaces with beautiful blooms, interesting foliage and a gorgeous lemony scent that drives the mosquitoes away
- HARDY MIDWEST GROWN PLANTS: Plant in any US Zone. Treat as a tender annual in Zones 9 and colder. 10x Root Development robust plants with healthy roots that handle transplanting better and grow stronger right from the start
- HEAT & DROUGHT TOLERANT: These annual plants are easy to grow and can tolerate high heat and drought conditions, making them suitable for various climates and growing environments
- Remove dead, damaged, or diseased leaves promptly.
- Pinch long tips just above a healthy leaf node.
- Deadhead spent flower stems if you want a tidier appearance or additional flowering.
- Use clean pruners when removing questionable or diseased tissue.
- Before moving a large plant indoors, prune it by about one-third to one-half if needed to reduce its size and make the transition easier.
Flowers on scented types are often small and less important than the foliage. A plant that is healthy but not heavily flowering may simply be expressing the normal ornamental character of a scented geranium. Missouri Botanical Garden, Illinois Extension, and Iowa State Extension recommend pinching and deadheading to maintain shape and appearance.
How to propagate a citronella plant from cuttings
Stem cuttings are the most dependable way to preserve a favorite scented pelargonium’s fragrance, leaf character, and growth habit. Many cultivated geraniums do not reproduce a named cultivar exactly from seed, so vegetative propagation is preferable when those traits matter.
- Choose the shoot. Select a healthy, non-flowering terminal shoot without signs of insects or disease.
- Take the cutting. With a clean knife or pruner, cut a three- to four-inch section.
- Prepare it. Remove the lower leaves, leaving leaves near the tip. Remove flower buds if present.
- Use rooting hormone if desired. It is optional rather than essential.
- Insert the stem. Place the base in vermiculite, coarse sand, perlite, or another well-aerated propagation mix.
- Water once. Moisten the medium thoroughly, then allow excess water to drain.
- Provide bright, indirect light. Keep the cutting out of strong direct sun while it is rooting.
- Maintain light moisture. Keep the medium lightly moist but never saturated. Excess moisture can rot an unrooted cutting.
- Manage humidity. A clear bag or humidity dome can reduce wilting, but leave some air exchange and check regularly for mold.
- Pot it up. Transplant after the cutting resists a gentle tug or has developed a useful root system.
Rooting may take roughly three to four weeks under favorable conditions, but six to eight weeks is also possible depending on the plant and environment. The University of Georgia geranium guide, Iowa State cutting guide, and University of Wisconsin overwintering guide provide propagation methods and timing ranges.
How to overwinter a citronella plant
Scented pelargoniums are tender perennials in warm, frost-free climates, but they are grown as annuals outdoors through much of the United States. Hardiness references vary: the Missouri Botanical Garden lists scented-leaved pelargoniums around USDA Zones 10–11, while some consumer references use Zones 9–11. A zone is only a broad climate guide, not a guarantee for a particular cultivar, exposure, drainage, or freeze. The practical rule is more useful: protect the plant from frost and prolonged cold. The USDA explanation of the 2023 Plant Hardiness Zone Map explains the limits of zone information.
Choose one of these three winter strategies before the first frost.
Option 1: Keep the whole plant growing indoors
- Inspect the leaves, stems, and pot for whiteflies, aphids, mites, mealybugs, or other pests.
- Remove dead or damaged material and rinse the foliage if appropriate.
- Prune a large or leggy plant by about one-third to one-half.
- Move it indoors before frost, not after the foliage has been damaged.
- Place it in the brightest sunny location available, away from heat vents, radiators, and cold drafts.
- Water only when the soil has dried somewhat.
- Stop or greatly reduce fertilizer until brighter conditions restore active growth.
Cool indoor conditions are preferable to a hot, dry position beside a heating vent. Wisconsin Extension recommends approximately 60–65°F for overwintered geraniums; Iowa State gives daytime temperatures around 65–70°F and nighttime temperatures around 60–65°F for potted geraniums. See the Wisconsin overwintering guide and Iowa State’s geranium guide.
What’s actually slowing this PC down?
Pick the symptom - the matching free tool is one click away.
Option 2: Overwinter cuttings
Taking several healthy tip cuttings is often the most space-efficient method. Root them indoors using the process above and keep the compact young plants in bright light. This approach also provides insurance: if the parent plant develops root rot or indoor pests, you may still preserve its desirable fragrance and form.
Option 3: Store the plant dormant
Bare-root storage takes less space but is more failure-prone than keeping a small potted plant or rooted cuttings.
- Bring the plant indoors before a hard freeze.
- Remove most of the soil from the roots.
- Store it in a cool, dry, frost-free location, commonly around 45–55°F.
- Expect leaves to dry and fall while the plant is dormant.
- In late winter or early spring, cut back to firm green tissue.
- Pot it into fresh, well-drained mix.
- Place it in bright light and resume normal watering gradually as new growth begins.
When can it go back outdoors?
Move an overwintered plant outdoors after the risk of damaging frost has passed. Acclimate it gradually if it has been growing in relatively low indoor light: begin with a sheltered bright location and increase exposure over several days. A sudden transition from indoor light to intense sun can stress or scorch foliage.
Rank #4
- SCENT SHIELD - Creates a citrusy barrier that's pleasing to you, but not mosquitoes - like your own personal mosquito forcefield!
- NATURE'S POWERHOUSE - Crafted with only the most effective essential oils available - rosemary, peppermint, citronella, and lemongrass - creating simple yet powerful candles that you can trust
- LONG-LASTING DEFENSE - Each candle provides a full 30 hours of proven mosquito resistance
- CLEAN BURN - Premium soy & beeswax blend for a slow, even burn
- MURPHY’S NATURALS - On a mission to do infinite good by prioritizing people and the environment – we passionately strive to help everyone play, explore, and wander in our natural world!
Common problems and practical fixes
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Long, weak, widely spaced stems | Insufficient light or lack of pinching | Move the plant to brighter light and pinch growing tips above leaf nodes. |
| Yellow leaves with wet soil | Overwatering, poor drainage, or root stress | Allow the mix to dry somewhat, check drainage holes, and repot into a porous mix if the roots remain wet. |
| Wilting while the soil is dry | Underwatering, excessive heat, a small container, or damaged roots | Water thoroughly, then reassess pot size, heat, and root condition. |
| Wilting while the soil remains wet | Root damage or root rot rather than thirst | Stop adding water, inspect the roots, remove rotten material if possible, and repot into fresh, well-drained mix. |
| Brown or scorched leaves | Heat, intense sun, inconsistent water, or root problems | Check the root zone first, then review light, heat, watering consistency, and recent changes in location. |
| Whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs, or fine webbing | Insect or mite infestation, often more noticeable indoors | Isolate the plant, rinse foliage where suitable, improve inspection and airflow, identify the pest, and use only a product labeled for that pest and plant. |
| Spots, rust-colored marks, or gray mold | Leaf spot, rust, or Botrytis encouraged by wet, cool, crowded conditions | Remove badly affected tissue, avoid unnecessary leaf wetting, improve spacing and airflow, and keep foliage drier. |
| Soft stems or rotting at the base | Excess moisture and poor drainage | Correct the soil or container, reduce watering, and remove severely rotted material. |
Not every damaged leaf requires an insecticide. Start by identifying the problem and correcting cultural conditions. UC Marin Master Gardeners, Missouri Botanical Garden, and NC State Extension list common pests including whiteflies, thrips, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and occasional caterpillars.
The Tool Desk
Outbyte Driver Updater FREEFix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Diseases and disorders include root and stem rot, rust, leaf spot, Botrytis, bacterial leaf spot, edema-like moisture injury, and legginess from inadequate light. Bacterial leaf spot is particularly important because Iowa State Extension states that it has no chemical cure; severely infected plants should be removed rather than repeatedly treated and spread to other plants.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Pet and skin-safety notes
The ASPCA lists geraniums in the genus Pelargonium as toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Reported toxic principles include geraniol and linalool, and possible signs include vomiting, appetite loss, depression, and dermatitis. Keep the plant away from pets that chew foliage. If a pet may have eaten it or develops symptoms, contact a veterinarian or an appropriate animal poison-control service.
Do not rub crushed leaves on your skin as a homemade mosquito repellent. A plant’s fragrance is not evidence that its fresh leaves provide tested, dependable, or skin-safe protection. The EPA explains the distinction between registered skin-applied repellents and products that have not necessarily been evaluated for effectiveness; use registered products only according to their labels.
Some scented geraniums are used as flavoring plants, but that does not make every plant sold under the name “citronella” edible. Retail labels may not establish the plant’s exact identity or growing history. Do not make a blanket edible-use assumption about an unidentified citronella plant.
Do these 3 things before closing this tab:
1Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems2Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute3Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsChoosing the right plant for your goal
- Choose a scented geranium when you want citrus-scented foliage, an attractive container plant, small flowers, and the option of bringing it indoors.
- Choose true citronella grass when you specifically want the grass associated with commercial citronella oil and have warm conditions and room for a clumping grass. It is a different plant with different cultural requirements.
- Choose an EPA-registered repellent when you need dependable bite protection, especially in a mosquito-heavy area or where mosquito-borne disease is a concern.
For most home gardeners, a container-grown scented pelargonium offers the best balance of drainage control, portability, and fragrance. In a warm, frost-free garden, planting in the ground can produce larger summer growth, but it removes the easy winter-move option and makes drainage more important.
Seasonal care checklist
Spring
- Move overwintered plants back outdoors only after frost danger has passed.
- Cut back weak growth to firm green tissue and pinch new tips.
- Refresh tired plants in porous, well-drained mix.
- Begin regular watering and dilute feeding as active growth resumes.
Summer
- Provide at least six hours of direct sun, with afternoon shade during extreme heat if necessary.
- Check containers frequently because small pots dry quickly.
- Water thoroughly, then allow the soil to dry somewhat.
- Pinch long shoots, remove dead leaves, and deadhead spent flower stems.
- Inspect regularly for whiteflies, thrips, mites, aphids, and mealybugs.
Before frost
- Decide whether to bring in the whole plant, take cuttings, or attempt dormant storage.
- Inspect and rinse plants before bringing them indoors.
- Prune oversized or leggy growth.
- Move the plant before frost damages the foliage.
Winter
- Keep the plant bright and comparatively cool.
- Water less often and never leave the pot standing in runoff.
- Stop or greatly reduce fertilizer during low-light dormancy.
- Watch indoor plants closely for pests and remove affected material promptly.
Frequently asked questions
Does a citronella plant come back every year?
It can behave as a perennial in warm, frost-free climates, but it is tender and is commonly grown as an annual outdoors in colder parts of the United States. Unless your climate is reliably frost-free, plan to overwinter it indoors or replace it in spring.
Can a citronella plant grow indoors?
Yes. Bring it indoors before frost, place it in the brightest available light, keep it away from drafts and heat vents, and water only after the soil has dried somewhat. Cuttings can also be rooted and grown indoors through winter.
How much sun does it need?
Aim for full sun or at least six hours of direct light daily. Provide some afternoon shade in exceptionally hot conditions if the plant shows heat stress, but avoid deep shade that produces leggy growth.
Free tools Windows power users keep installed
One-click scans. No signup required.
Best Value
- READY TO PLANT: Includes 2 Citronella Mosquito Plants (Pelargonium ‘Citrosum’) in 4" nursery pots—well-rooted and ready to grow, measuring at least 5” tall at delivery. Natural variations in size, color, and appearance may occur.
- ABOUT THIS PLANT: A highly fragrant sub-shrub prized for its lush foliage and refreshing lemon-citronella scent, forming a bushy upright habit reaching 2–4 ft tall and wide, with delicate pink spring flowers, thriving in USDA Zones 9–11.
- USES & BENEFITS: Perfect for patio containers, garden borders, and landscape accents, this plant adds aromatic greenery and pollinator-friendly blooms to any indoor or outdoor spaces, releasing a strong citrus aroma when brushed or touched and naturally repelling mosquitoes.
- STRESS-FREE CARE: An easy-care evergreen thriving in full sun to partial shade with moderate watering. Heat tolerant, drought-tolerant once established, and fast-growing, it responds well to light pruning to maintain a full, dense form, thriving in well-draining soil.
- SHIPPED WITH CARE: We stand behind every plant with our 30-Day Replacement Guarantee. Grown in-house in the USA and hand-packed by our Veteran- and family-owned nursery, each plant is carefully watered and shipped with protective packaging and care instructions. Shipped nationwide (excluding Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico).
How often should I water it?
Water thoroughly when the soil has dried somewhat, then let excess drain away. There is no dependable every-few-days schedule because container size, temperature, wind, humidity, and light all change how quickly the soil dries.
Can it grow in a pot?
Yes, and a pot is often the best choice. Use a porous commercial potting mix and a container with drainage holes. Containers make it easier to control moisture and move the plant indoors before frost.
Can I grow a citronella plant from a cutting?
Yes. Take a three- to four-inch non-flowering tip cutting, remove the lower leaves, and insert it into a well-aerated propagation medium. Keep it lightly moist in bright, indirect light. Rooting may take about three to four weeks, or as long as six to eight weeks under slower conditions.
Why are the leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves combined with wet soil usually indicate overwatering, poor drainage, or root stress. Check the pot and roots before adding more water. Yellowing can have other causes, so also review light, temperature, and recent changes in care.
Recommended Free Tools
Does a citronella plant repel mosquitoes?
Not reliably. Controlled and field studies found no meaningful protection from simply placing the commonly marketed citrosa geranium nearby. Use standing-water control, protective clothing, fans, and properly labeled repellents for actual mosquito protection.
Is it safe for dogs and cats?
No blanket safety claim should be made. The ASPCA lists Pelargonium species as toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Keep pets from chewing the plant and contact a veterinarian after suspected ingestion.
What is the difference between citronella geranium and citronella grass?
Citronella geranium is a scented Pelargonium with soft, often lobed leaves and small flowers. Citronella grass is a clumping Cymbopogon grass with strap-like leaves and is associated with the production of commercial citronella oil. They are not interchangeable plants.
Sources and further reading
- Illinois Extension: Scented Geranium
- Missouri Botanical Garden: Scented-leaved Pelargonium
- NC State Extension: Pelargonium
- Iowa State Extension: Growing Annual Geraniums
- University of Wisconsin Extension: Overwintering Tender Geraniums
- Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew: Pelargonium citrosum
- U.S. EPA: Oil of Citronella RED Fact Sheet
- PubMed: Evaluation of the “mosquito plant”
- UC Integrated Pest Management: Mosquitoes
- ASPCA: Geranium toxicity
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I plant a citronella geranium in the ground or keep it in a pot?
A pot is usually the better choice in a cold climate because it provides drainage control and can be moved indoors before frost. In a warm, reliably frost-free climate, a well-drained garden bed can produce larger summer growth.
What’s actually slowing this PC down?
Pick the symptom - the matching free tool is one click away.
Can I use citronella geranium leaves as insect repellent?
Do not apply crushed leaves or homemade extracts to your skin. The plant has not been shown to provide dependable mosquito protection, and fresh plant material is not equivalent to an EPA-evaluated skin-applied repellent.
What is the easiest way to save the plant over winter?
Keep a small potted plant indoors in bright light, or take several three- to four-inch tip cuttings before frost. Both methods are generally more reliable than bare-root dormant storage.
The Bottom Line
Bottom line: The common “citronella plant” is usually a fragrant, frost-tender Pelargonium. Give it sun, fast drainage, moderate moisture, light feeding, and regular pinching. Bring it indoors or take cuttings before frost. Enjoy the citrus scent, but do not depend on the plant itself to repel mosquitoes or assume that an unidentified retail plant is edible or pet-safe.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
